Mid August – Plymouth and Dartmouth

Since the last post we have had several comments about our overnight passage.  People observed that the passage must have been easier than previous ones as there was no requirement to sing ‘Jerusalem’ etc.  It was a better passage, mainly because we are learning to manage it better.  Take seasickness pills, keep warm, prepare easy food and a mountain of butties and keep occupied with a radio and music.  The wind did blow up after dark but we were more prepared.  It is still not one of my favourite things, but you do feel really alive, as every sense is on full alert.

7th August - Sunday

Mick serviced the engine and I read my much loved Sunday papers. 

One of the reasons we came to Plymouth was that the stars have aligned and 4 different sets of friends are due in the next week or so.

8th August – Monday

Socialising starts early with breakfast bacon baps on Yacht Gem with Mark and his friends.  His boat is in QAB (Queen Anne’s Battery) marina so we had a nice walk round.

While chatting he told us about some French people with a submarine.  Alarms bells started as we had met a couple in Le Havre earlier in the year who were telling us of this mad cap scheme.  Their boat was at the end of Mark’s pontoon.

So after breakfast we wandered over.

They were just about to re-launch.

www.projectpoissonpilote.com

The website does not currently give a progress update.

Billed as ‘Channel exploration in a pedal powered submarine’ they are aiming to travel from Plymouth to St Malo on/near the seabed.  The previous day they had problems with carbon-monoxide in the cabin and had surfaced.  When we left them the plan was to spend 48 hours under water, just off shore, to thoroughly check the systems.  Jean-Pierre thankfully remembered us and explained what was occurring.

9th August – Tuesday

Tricia and Jeremy arrived on Tudora.  We met them in Ipswich at the end of last year and had some lovely times together.  We were really looking forward to a catch-up.  So we had coffee on Tudora and afternoon scones on Fleur later. 

10th August – Wednesday

At Tricia and Jeremy’s suggestion we all went to Buckfastleigh on the bus to visit Buckfast Abbey.  The abbey is quite new and gives a great insight into how all the old cathedrals that we visit would have looked when first built.  After a lovely lunch at the abbey cafe we headed for the return bus, which we just missed.  Thankfully as it turns out as we walked to the South Devon Steam railway station and passed a good hour watching the trains.

The return bus fare was £15 for us both and it is a good 45 minute journey.  A grand day out with bonus steam trains.

At night we went for our wedding anniversary meal at the Himalayan Spice restaurant. 

11th August – Thursday

Graham and Pauline arrived to their new motor boat ‘Mooditoo’ also moored in Sutton Harbour and very nice it is too.  Their friend Lyndsey joined us and we went out for Tapas.

12th August – Friday

We were really spoilt by Jeremy and Tricia who invited us for lunch on Tudora with their friends Gill and Frank.  They were also sailors and we exchanged lots of good tips and ideas for future adventures.  They have been around the UK 3 times and to the Baltic.  Lunch was excellent and so was the company.

We later went for Chinese with Graham and Pauline at the ‘Fortune Court’ in the corner of the marina which is a ‘bring you own wine’ establishment.  Highly recommended.

13th August – Saturday

Out for a spin on Mooditoo.

It feels so much faster than Fleur, and there is a great view from the flybridge.

Graham and Pauline then popped back home and we walked to the town museum.  It is currently displaying less items as it is closing for re-furbishment.  2020 is the 400th anniversary of the sailing of the ‘Mayflower’ to America and Plymouth are gearing up for large numbers of visitors.

14th August – Sunday

We walked the whole of Plymouth Hoe to the Royal William Yard.

Plymouth Hoe with the ‘Dome’ restaurant centre.

The Royal William Yard was used by the navy to re-vitual ships prior to departure.  The large warehouses which stored the goods and munitions have been converted into shops and apartments and are back to their former glory.  Go hungry and eat as there is so much choice.

15th August – Monday

We went for dinner with Mark, his mum ‘Mickey’, his great friend Jane, Jeremy and Patricia at the Dome Restaurant on the Hoe.  The menu has changed since we came with Graham and Pauline earlier in the year.  The portions are huge and the view is amazing.  Overlooking the sea and watching the sunset is a real treat.  Again highly recommended.

16th August – Tuesday

We all met on Tudora for coffee, new friends meeting old friends, very pleasant.

Tuesday and Wednesday nights are the main event.  The British Firework Championships.  The first group start at 9:00pm for 10 minutes then 10 minutes break and so on for the first 3 groups and then the same again the night after.

We all assembled on Mark’s boat Gem for Curry and drinks.  He had 13 adults aboard.  His boat was turned around by the men so that we were in prime firework watching position.  What a spectacle, big thanks to Mark and his friends.

17th August – Wednesday

Another treat today.  Our friends Dave and Katherine came to the boat with their children Erica and Sam.  They were on holiday in Devon and kindly paid us a visit.  After a brew on board we walked around the Barbican and the children enjoyed rides on the Carousel and Bouncers, then we had a chippy lunch and ice cream.   Think we could have some budding junior sailors in the future.

 

Plymouth Marina – Sutton Harbour

We really enjoyed our stay at Sutton Harbour.  Being inside the lock gave us a peaceful few days.  The noise from the Barbican is not too bad and is made up for by the excellent facilities.  Sadly no plug socket, but decent hotel hairdryers.  We got a deal for staying 10 nights and it worked out at about £28 per night.  There is free tea and coffee and comfy seats at the marina office.  Everything is within walking distance.  Lidl is a 30 minute walk.  Co-op and Tesco Metro nearby.

We said our goodbyes to Graham and Pauline and Patricia and Jeremy.  Lovely to meet up.

18th August – To Dartmouth

We came to Dartmouth as the forecast was for bad weather and we would have been in Plymouth another week otherwise.  The 36 miles to Dartmouth started off with a hazy sea mist.   Starting at 07:30 and arriving at 15:30.  Plymouth harbour was calm and then the sea rolled but was beautifully glassy until we got the Start Point.  We had a visit from some dolphins, they seem to appear when the sea is very still.

We were passed by ‘Patricia’, a large vessel used for deploying buoys at sea.  You don’t realise how big they are until you see them on the deck of a ship.  We are very grateful that they do such a good job.

Start Point

The sea became much calmer after Start Point and we entered Dartmouth in the sunshine.

We were asked to moor in the town quay, but the tide was running very strongly and we decided against it.

We were then moored on a floating pontoon in the middle of the river. (Far right above).

The pontoon is shown here on the left.

Which means that you have to use your own dinghy or the water taxi (above) to get ashore.  You call the taxi on channel 69 and he appears at the pontoon.  The pontoon has no water or electricity, so you have to adapt.  Water is used minimally.  The engine has to be run for half and hour a day to top up the batteries and showers are taken ashore.  In our case in the yacht club for £1.  The taxi fare is £1 per person each way.  From the other side of the river it is £2.  As the mooring fee is only £18 per night we figured there was a few fares in the price difference to a normal marina.  You also need to have a good walk while on shore. 

19th August – Friday

We went ashore to meet Mark, Jane and Mickey who were visiting friends nearby.  They took us to the ‘Slopping Deck’ cafe for Devon Cream Tea.

It is located in the old Butterwalk building on the first floor above the bakery.

Excellent scones and the decor was fascinating.

Dartmouth’s pretty streets.

20th August – Saturday

We stayed on board today as the storm was due to blow through.  It gusted quite a bit but nothing like last year. 

We went for drinks on ‘Tearway too’ with Martin, Ruth and Chris.  They had a similar story to ours and their racing tales demonstrated their boats prowess.  Good Luck for next year.

21st August – Sunday

Pasties and coffee with the papers ashore.  Then to St Saviours church with the amazing carved door from 1631.

22nd August – Monday

To the tourist information centre at the third try as it is closed on Sundays!  And does not open til 10!  The tourist office also houses an original Newcomen Atmospheric engine.  Newcomen lived in Dartmouth and the engine kicked off the industrial revolution. 

We then walked to Dartmouth Castle.

Its a good walk and the views are great.

St Petrox church next to the castle.

23rd August – Tuesday

Mark’s friends Barry and Chris came to collect us today, so that Mick could buy a Ukulele.  Random.  It would be except that we met Barry and Chris at Mark’s firework party.  Chris plays the Ukulele and she said she would take Mick to a good local shop.  He has been looking at them for 3 years, so the opportunity to buy one with an expert was to good to miss.  We celebrated his purchase with tea and cakes and then they drove us around Devon, via Kingsbridge and their home town of Torcross.  What a fantastic day with lovely people. 

Torcross beach.  We are looking forward to our next meeting.  Big thank you.

24th August – Wednesday

Dartmouth Regatta started in earnest today. 

The cruise ship Sea Cloud turned up during the night.  Stealthy for a big ship.

There are some fascinating vessels in Dartmouth.

The Dartmouth Castle is a steamer which takes passengers.

These people were advertising the paddle boards.  Very cool.

We crossed to Kingswear at the other side of the river via the higher passenger ferry.

To visit the steam train.

We could see the train from the boat and it toots each time it enters the station.  We had a good walk around the marina and then returned on the Lower passenger ferry.

Lower Passenger Ferry - £1.50 per person each way.

We had ring side seats for the sailing races.

And the rowing races.

25th August – Thursday

Went ashore to see the street market and big food tent.  Then more fireworks viewed from the boat in the evening before 9:15pm bedtime due to 2:15am start to Weymouth, around Portland Bill.

Another sailing challenge.

Budget busting but very enjoyable few weeks.

Early August 2016–St Evette, Camaret, L’Aberwra’ch, Plymouth

29th July – To St Evette

We needed to stay overnight on a mooring buoy in St Evette prior to our return passage through the Raz de Sein.  The 32 miles from 09:00 to 15:00 are under overcast skies and rolling sea, but the wind was warm and we were joined by Dolphins to cheer the journey.  Leaving Loctudy was every bit a precarious as the entry for fishing pot-dodging. 

There has been a lot of weed in the sea this year.  The boat above had to employ a local diver to remove something from his propeller. 

The price for our stay had increased from 10 to 11.50 euros since our last visit a few weeks ago.

30th July – Saturday – To Camaret

We had a very early start today to set off at daybreak for the 31 miles through the Raz de Sein to Camaret.  An overcast start, brightened later.  There was a large swell but the dolphins visiting again improved our journey.  As we started so early we arrived in Camaret at 11:30am.  So we paid our dues and waited for the Super U supermarket to open at 2:30pm.  Its a great place for a good stock up.

At the marina office there was a sign for a parade by the ‘Association Vauban La Tour doree’.  At 17:00 hours 50 plus people dressed in period costume paraded from the Vauban Tower at the harbour-side, along the main street and back again, accompanied by pipes and drums.  Vauban is the designer of many of the most significant fortifications around Europe.

And this is his fan club.

The parade then went into the grounds of the Vauban Tower which is currently being renovated.

31st July – Sunday

Bit of a lazy day, wandering around the Brocante Antiques market along the sea front. 

This family gathering on the boat moored behind us needed special mention for the most people on a relatively small sailing boat,  3 children and 12 adults, yes 15 people.  A visual representation of the displacement theory.  All very good humoured.

2nd August – Tuesday

The last time we stayed in Camaret for a few days we walked towards the headland.  This time we walked slightly into town and followed the signs for the Alignements Megalithiques, hoping for more ancient stones.  We were not disappointed and they were within 1 mile of the town.

Alignements Megalithiques de Lagatjar.  43 stones aligned which are contemporaries of the alignements at Carnac 2,500 years BC.

We then progressed upwards and onwards for about 2 miles towards the memorial cross.  We have passed this monument on the sea a few times and really wanted to see it up close.  I was expecting a Celtic cross and was surprised as we approached and it got bigger and bigger.

Memorial cross decorated with Art Deco inspired designs of all the services.  It is dedicated to the Battle of the Atlantic.

The cross on its prominent cliff.

Incredible rock formations.

Rock formations which display the power of the sea.

It was a very windy day and we stayed well away from the edges.

On the way down we had a closer look at the bunkers at the Musee Memorial Pointe de Pen Hir, Battle of the Atlantique bunker.  There is a labyrinth of buildings interconnected with deep trenches.

The museum was not open but the sign stated this is a memorial for all the fallen servicemen from every nation involved.

We had a really good day with unexpected finds and a good walk.

See previous post for marina details, 29 euros.

Camaret is growing on us.  It has everything a weary sailor needs.

4th August – To L’Aberwra’ch

To make the tide going through the Chenal du Four we left Camaret at 12:00 for the 35 miles, passing the headland of the Rade de Brest above.

It was quite a bright day, and the first half of the passage was just a bit lumpy but the sea swell rose to 3 metres high and is shown above hitting Le Four lighthouse.  Sometimes going half way up the tower. 

We arrived with a large lump of weed on the rudders which was removed with the assistance of Jean-Pierre in the neighbouring boat.  Every French sailor we have talked to this year has been called Jean-Pierre.  Must be a nightmare at primary school with name tags.

L’Aberwra’ch is a water sport haven with many types of sailing adventures on offer.

The following day we walked to Landeda a local town up the hill approximately 25 minutes.  The first year we totally missed the supermarket and I needed to find it for my sanity.  I think we thought Super Utilities was an electric company rather than a supermarket.  We have learned so much.  A restful day before our channel crossing.  A dish of Moules at the Captain restaurant was enjoyed in the evening as our last in France for this year.

6th August – Saturday – To Plymouth across the channel overnight.

L’Aberwra’ch to Plymouth is this years big trip.  We have friends to see in Plymouth and then we can make our way East to find a winter mooring.

The crossing is 112 miles and takes 22 hours.  We set off at 09:00 with two boxes of sandwiches prepared.  We both took seasickness pills and continued to take them every 8 hours.

The first 14 hours were quite un-eventful and quite pleasant.  A lovely sunny day with less than 10 knots of wind.  So both sails up with the engine on 2000 revs.  The sea was once again quite choppy but tolerable, though not slight enough to read.  It was lucky that it was the opening day of the Rio Olympics and Radio 5 Live was a very useful companion.  (I think I could answer Mastermind questions on the first day of the Olympics).   We had a sneaky Pot Noodle at 18:00 to bring some warmth and comfort.

I had a little snooze on deck from 21:00 to 23:30.  During which time it went dark.  There was no moon but the stars were plentiful.  Mick went down below to sleep from 23:30 to 02:30.  I did wake him twice.  Once for a fishing boat which had no AIS and seemed to be playing chicken with us, so we diverted to give him a wide berth.  Then for a cargo ship which was travelling quickly and needed avoiding.  During my watch the wind had picked up to 20 knots and with reefs in the sail we were still making 6.8 knots and covered quite some ground.

So much so that when Mick took over at 02:30 he had to reduce speed to make sure we did not arrive too early and to aid his progress through the recently descended thick fog, which was not forecast.   To give you some idea of the fog we lost sight of the Edistone Lighthouse’s light even though we were only 5 miles from it when we passed it. 

The mist stayed with us all the way into Plymouth.

We arrived at Sutton Harbour at 06:00 and passed through the lock on free flow.

We ate more of the sandwiches and then went for a Sunday paper before a well earned sleep.

We are staying here now for a week or so, catching up with friends and enjoying Plymouth as we have never been here in our boat before.