Wednesday 24 May 2017

Still May 2017–Delfziljs, Holland to Laboe, Germany via Kiel Canal

14th May – Sunday – To Norderney, Riddle of the Sands Territory

The shallow waters between the Frisian Islands and the mainland are only covered by water when the tide is in and navigating these shallow passages must be untaken with considerable care.  If you get it wrong your boat will cease to float and become a spectator attraction for those who calculated correctly, or have a boat with a very shallow draft, until the next high tide. 

These waters were made famous in the book Riddle of the Sands by Erskine Childers and 1979 film starring a young Michael York and Simon MacCorkindale.

An 0800 start for the 36 mile trip to the Frisian Island of Norderney arriving at 1530.  Being out in the sea once more we saw our first seal for a while.  There was just 2 knots of tide flowing through the shallows and we only had a short wait to catch the correct tide height to continue.  Our 1m draft came in very useful and we still had depth alarms for 1.4 and 1.3m indications, as our alarm is set at 1.5m.  The forecast was a sunny 5 knots, in reality it was a flooky 5-20 knots and poured down on arrival.

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Hoisted our German flag for the first time.

The channel is well buoyed but vigilance is key, Mick was constantly checking the instruments to make sure we were at the correct marker.  Then the Withies appeared.

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Withies are sticks set into the mud which act as channel markers on approach to Norderney.

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A very helpful red tag had been tie wrapped to this one to indicate it as a Port marker!

The charts just say Withies and show no channel as they are moved by the local harbour master when the sands shift and the channels change course.  I think they are still here purely for nostalgic reasons.  Light weight buoys would be much for effective.  But they certainly add to the atmosphere and there aren’t many of them.

More tricky were the buoys leading to Norderney, get this wrong and the locals laugh from the beach.  Tread carefully here it would be very easy to miss the last one if you had not been told, or read it in the pilot book.

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Norderney Seafront.

Sailors Info:

Norderney Yacht Haven is a good marina.  Good free power showers and good wifi.  18.60 euros per night.  Pass card with 10 euro deposit.  Electricity is paid for on the pontoon by inserting a coin into the power hook up point.  (Took us ages to find when electricity went off).

Sadly I have no information about the town as we were very tired and the heavens opened, so rain stopped play.  

15th May – Monday – Norderney to Cuxhaven.

The crew was sold a pup today.  The promised early 6:00am start became the 04:30 start, for the 64 miles to Cuxhaven, in the North Sea which took 10.5 hours.

Again we navigated the tricky buoys out of Norderney at sunrise.  After the island the channel was well buoyed all the way.  The hard part of this leg is calculating the tides to arrive at Cuxhaven at slack water.  We both took turns to sleep during the day, as we had been up so early.

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Mick serenaded me on his Ukulele during his down time.  In the background of this picture there are dozens of tankers at anchor awaiting instructions or oil price changes before heading for Hamburg or the Kiel Canal.  It was a very calm day and the dolphins came to visit.  This was a tiring trip because of the duration and the amount of traffic, again constant vigilance is required.  We arrived at Cuxhaven just as the tide was about to change and had experience 9.5knots over the ground when the tide was with us. 

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On arrival at Cuxhaven you have to spot very small Green or Red markers which indicate whether the berth is free to use or not.  Its a good system but they need to be larger as I told several other boats about them as they passed us during our stay.

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On approach to Cuxhaven you see many tiny dots on the shore and its a real puzzle as to what they are.

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Turns out that they are lovely wicker deckchairs with sunshades, which can be hired for 1.50 euros per day.  Mick’s was at the marina.

Sailors Info

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Cuxhaven has a large sea defence mound along the whole of the sea front and huge flood barriers in the town itself.  Walk down the steps and ‘Follow the Red Brick Road’ into the main shopping street.  Where if you go straight across, it will bring you to Lidl.

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Cuxhaven Marina with large cargo visitor in the background.

The marina at Cuxhaven has good facilities, which are operated by an electric card which takes off a prepaid 1 euro for a very short shower.  10 Euros for the card deposit and charge it up, then redeem what is left on departure.  Poor wifi, but we were a long way from the office.  There is also a Real supermarket on Captain Alexander Str, (cross the road bridge and turn right) which also has a variety of chandlers and discount outdoor clothes outlets. The marina is also used by campervans to park, which must bring excellent revenue judging by numbers.

We met a lovely young Dutch couple, Petra and Bram on their steel sailing ship Hafskip and wish them well on their big adventure to South America.   

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A seal sunning himself on a jetty, he was there for several hours.

18th May Thursday – Cuxhaven to Kiel Canal

We had to play the waiting game before we set off today.  Experienced skippers in the area had waited until 12:30 the previous day so we were waiting until 13:30, but the wind had been getting stronger all morning and it was a subject of much discussion between ourselves and other crews as to the best plan of action.  The wind died a little and we set off at 13:45.  We had 1 knot of tide against us for the first hour and then the tide took us on a Roly sea picking up to 8.5 knots to take us to the entrance of the Kiel Canal lock at slack water.  There was plenty of heavy traffic too, to keep us on our toes. 

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Navigation screen showing traffic in the canal and locks.

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On approach to the lock it is difficult to see where to go.  We radioed the control tower and they said to wait in the waiting area, which is marked on the charts and then enter ‘Breakwater 1’ when the lights indicated to proceed.  The red light is just visible above.  The tide means that you tread water at the entrance, which is a weird feeling as the water rushes passed and you go nowhere.

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No worries Breakwater 1 has a huge ‘1’ painted on it.  We followed two other yachts and there was one behind us.  The barge had entered first.

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View behind us, that was not a small yacht.

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The ‘It’s a Knockout’ part of the lock involved the pontoon being very low in the water.  Normally when I jump off the boat its a couple of feet.  It was also hard for Mick to judge the distance as he could not see if from his helming position.  My inbuilt self preservation kicked in as my brain said ‘Don’t Jump’ as it was so high and to far away.  Thank goodness the man from the boat in front took my rope despite his not being properly settled and saved us any embarrassment.  There is no one else to help and the rope rings are near the wall.  Thankfully we knew to put the fenders in the water to at least save the boat from the pontoon.  It is a very stressful event and we were really jangled when we exited the lock.

Then located immediately after the lock is Brunsbuttel marina.  More boat manoeuvring under pressure, as the cafĂ© punters watch in anticipation of a cock-up.

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Brunsbuttel Marina.  There is a small chicane into the marina and a tight turning circle, but we made it.  The lock is in the background.

Sailors Info

We waited for the harbourmaster to collect the dues, only 10 Euro, but no wifi.  The facilities are on the harbourside near the tourist info centre and helpful ‘WC’ signs indicate the path.  Very clean public facility.  Edeka supermarket on the main street.

We walked the length of the main street and then had dinner and collapsed.

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The morning after was very misty and we waited for it to clear before proceeding.  Lots of passing traffic to amuse us while munching the muesli.

19th May – Friday – Kiel Canal, Brunsbuttel to Rendsburg

The Kiel canal is 92km long and is marked every half kilometre by a numbered post.

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It saves sailors, navy’s and merchant vessels 250 nautical miles (460km) by not going around Denmark.

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We stopped for Diesel first thing, and a man popped out of a hut like Mr Benn.  He was very pleasant, but a large ‘Diesel Here’ sign would improve his trade.  Although he does have a literally captive audience.

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There are ferries at very regular intervals.

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The first 3km are quite industrial but the rest is tree lined on both sides with occasion houses interspersed along the way.

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Some of the traffic is impressive.  The width of the canal varies but is generally wide enough for two of these to pass each other plus room for a sport boat at each side.  The book says you should not go to close to the side as the wash from the larger ships could ground you.

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Transporter bridge at Rendsburgh (for Iain McD).  There are several 42 metre high bridges.

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Rendsburg is 33 miles through the canal.  Turn left at the Lurssen superyacht factory (you cant miss it).  The small fjord into Rendsburg has transit markers (above) for pilotage, which are lined up to navigate the deepest part of the channel.

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Rendsburg Yacht Club

Sailors Info

The visitor moorings are difficult to identify in low season.  They are boxes with pillars on the outside of the first pontoon.  We circled several times to make sure.  The boxes are large so make sure you have a loop on the end of your mooring rope.  18 Euros, good facilities 1 euro for a good long shower.  Edeka supermarket signposted from pontoons, there is also an Aldi next door to Edeka.  Good wifi.  There is a market on Saturday but it finishes at 1300 and we missed it.

On Friday night we had the longest storm I can remember 6 hours of heavy rain, thunder and lightening above our heads.  It usually moves on but not this time.  Cleaned the boat beautifully.

On Saturday we had a walk around town as we had been advised to walk the ‘Blue Line’ around the highlights of town from the Tourist Info office.  It was also closed from 1400 on a Saturday as were many of the shops, so we walked the line anyway and made up the history.  Better luck next time.  The town has some good reconstructed buildings which are worth a look.

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Mick under the Lancaster Sign in the town Square 812km from home.

1st May – Sunday – Rendsburg to Laboe via the East Lock

Oh no not again, another nerve jangling lock experience.  But we have done one, this should be the same! Fools!

We set off at 0945 and it took until 1600 to complete 26 miles.  We arrived at the East Lock at 1300 and had to wait until 1430 to enter as one of the locks is out of action until July (it is estimated).  The upside is that passage is free at present, payment is normally made at the East end.

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We sat on the pontoon as the boats kept coming, we were rafted 4 deep by 1430.

The wooden pirate ship behind us, hooked the Dan Buoy (life saving device) on the back of our boat as we made our way to the lock.  They had been drinking beer for the hour and a half wait.  Fortunately Mick managed to unhook us and fender them off.  The Dan Buoy was slightly bent but better that than the life raft.

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14 yachts, and two cargo ships in the lock.  This time we were rafted to a boat which had to make the leap to shore.  It was still a trial trying to settle the boat with all the commotion.

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A relieved captain at the other side of the lock.

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The Kieler Forde, which feels very much like the Solent on a busy weekend.

We sailed to Laboe which is only 4 miles from the lock in the Baltic.

Oh I forgot to mention, we are in the Baltic!!!

More about Laboe next time.  Staying here several days to mend the shattered nerves.

Saturday 13 May 2017

Mid May 2017 – Lemmer to Delfzijl

We have covered some ground on the last 2 weeks. 

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We stayed in Lemmer for 4 nights until the forecast wind passed by.  The centre of town is based along the side of the canal, where we entered.  We managed to purchase a new Ball Fender to replace the one lost at Ijmuiden after the long trip.

Sailors Info:

Lemmer Binnen is located on the left after the third bridge.  It is well situated with a short 15 minute walk into town.  Lidl, Jumbo and Aldi have stores which are easily found on the walk in.  20 Euros per night, 50 cents for a 3 minute shower. 

7th May – Sunday – Lemmer to Leeuwarden

A 10:00 start for the 34 miles to Leeuwarden arriving at 18:20 after approx 20 bridges.  It is a good journey as you pass Sneek with its own lake and vibrant sailing community.  It being weekend there were lots of boats out and about.

Beware of the left turn at Grou to follow the Standing Mast Route.  The signs are small especially on the next right turn with a bridge immediately afterwards.

We were only delayed by one hour at bridges during the whole day.  The bridge keepers stop for lunch from 12:00 until 13:00 in towns and again from 4:15 to 5:30 at tea time.  Really good joined up thinking as the boats are not stopping commercial traffic at the busiest times.

We paid the 7 Euro toll to enter Leeuwarden and put our money in the clog on the end of a fishing line.  (see 2015 blog for more info).

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The main tower still has a good lean on it.

Leeuwarden was the furthest north we came on our last trip, so everything from now on is new territory.

We decided not to stay in the town this time and made our way out of town to find a countryside mooring.

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Gnomes are one thing but a full sized model cow is on another level.

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The countryside mooring are described as ‘Temporary berth or mooring for crewed yachts’ in the Standing Mast Route Book.  As the bridge and lock keepers close for the day at anything between 17:00 to 19:00, spaces are provided for boats to moor overnight for free as passage to the next town is not possible after the bridges close.

We had a very peaceful night.  Some of our sailing friends who have travelled through here previously could not use these moorings as they are generally very shallow.  We have a 1m draft with the keel lifted.  This mooring was only 1.3m deep and did set off our depth alarm which is set at 1.5m.

8th May – Monday – Leeuwarden to Dokkum

We travelled through narrow canals with houses on each side for several miles.

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The 9 miles to Dokkum only took 3 hours with an hour stop for lunch just outside the town, waiting for the bridge.

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We had to pay 3.50 Euros at Birdarp, which is paid at the last bridge after the windmill, again into a clog.

Another 5 Euros to pay to enter Dokkum.  The next view after paying is the impressive Thatched Windmill and its twin.  Two beautiful windmills in quick succession as we make our way to the overnight mooring.

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Two Thatched Windmills at Dokkum.

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We asked the bridge controller where we should stay and he waved us to the canal-side moorings, complete with jetty and electricity.  Ours is the boat with the washings hanging out.  We had arrived just after lunch which is unusual and the engine had provided lots of hot water, so it seemed like a good plan.

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Dokkum Centre, there are lots of shops to pass a few hours.

Sailors Info:

The lady harbourmaster strolls around the boats after 6:00pm to collect dues.  She was very helpful and only charged 11 Euros per night inc Electric.  The toilets are in a small block across the bridge and the immaculate new showers are just around the corner across the car park.  1 Euro for 5 minutes.  Aldi and Albert Heinijn are located across the bridge and turn left.  Good free Wifi.

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Interesting River Traffic.  Digger delivery.

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Some kind of floating pump.  These vehicles are a surprise as you tootle along.

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We also spotted these which we think are bird houses, which many properties have along this part of the route.

10th May – Wednesday – Dokkum to Groningen (pronounced Kron-inker).

We stayed in Dokkum for 2 nights as we knew the next leg was a long one.  The 35 miles took from 09:15 to 18:00.

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We used one of these call buttons for the first time today.  As we approached a bridge we realised there was a request button on the temporary mooring.  It worked a treat.  Open sesame.

The Dokkum to Groningen canal winds its way through the countryside and follows a previous river route.  We were amazing at the grassland pastures and very low lying land.

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We were surprised to see these horses grazing on one corner and just how many there were.

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Horses grazing and playing in the water.

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Gratuitously pretty fishing harbour at Zoutkamp.  The standing mast routes takes us much further out towards the sea hence the fishing.

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Three bridges into Groningen our convoy of 3 had to stop for tea when the bridges closed.

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Right next to this water tower.

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After a sharp right the town opens up in front.

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It was a beautiful still night after the bitterly cold 25 knot winds (un-forecasted) we had experienced earlier in the day.

26 Bridges and Locks, 11 of which are in Groningen, when we were quite tired.  The most interesting in town being two bridges, very close together.  There were 3 boats passing through at the same time, so a tight squeeze and then a tram crossed the bridge very close by.

The trip from Dokkum to Groningen should be done on a calm day, there are some very shallow areas.  One potential hiccup was averted as we approached a bridge which was being mended and we were told on the radio that it would be closed for 2 hours.  The workers on the floating pallet with 3 buckets of cement opened the bridge manually for us.  Cheers.

Sailors Info:

We stayed at Oosterhaven on the East of town.  A very nice lady harbourmaster pointed to our mooring from her floating house and came to take the money.  Jumbo supermarket nearby.  Poor wifi.  18 Euros per night.  50 cents for good shower in the WC block across the road (big yellow WC sign not visible when you are standing under it!).  There are a few locals hanging around but they were no trouble.  Good entertainment was had from the paddle board hire company which ‘teaches’ and launches its wobbly ducklings from the pontoon. 

Groningen is a lovely old town, with lots to see and do.

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However, the fair was in town so all the buildings were a little obscured.  We had a good walk around and have great information for our return journey later in the year from Vicki and Bert.

12th May – Friday – Groningen to Delfzijl

8 Bridges and one huge lock.  16.5 miles in 4 hours.  The Zeesluizen is the last we will go through in Holland.

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This picture is a perfect example of vanishing point.  The canal is wide and the traffic becomes larger again.

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Delfzijl Adam Windmill in the centre of town.  It is a port town and has a good small shopping area 5 minutes walk from the marina.

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Hotel on stilts.

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Fleur moored.

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Neptunus Marina is near the industrial area and large ships are moored nearby.  Which has not spoiled our stay in this excellent marina.

Sailors Info:

Neptunus marina is located to the left as you leave the lock.  Cross the harbour and go left and then sharp right into the marina.  19 Euros per night inc electric and tourist tax.  Free fabulous showers.  No rushing!  The harbour master was very helpful and talked Mick through the next part of our journey to Nordeney through the ‘Riddle of the Sands’ shallows.  He concurred that Sunday will be a good day to traverse this notoriously tricky area. 

Next stop Germany.