Late July 2019 – Oban and Tobermory, Isle of Mull

17th July – Wednesday – Corpach (Caledonian Canal) to Oban

We took a slight risk today as there were gusts of 22 in the forecast.  The forecast for the next few days was much worse, so we went for it.  We left the Sealock at Corpach at 08.00 with another four boats.  Two interlopers took the Starboard side and we (me) had to move everything around quickly to accommodate a the Port side mooring.  That wakes you up.

Loch Linnie was beautiful, even in the mist.  I don’t think anyone see’s the whole canal in sunshine.  We had heavy rain as we approached the Corran narrows, on the loch.  After that the weather got progressively worse.  The 22 knots gusts were 28 knots and the fog came down too.  We have not been to Oban before and there are many small islands and ferries to negotiate.  We arrived in Oban Marina on the Isle of Kerrera (Opposite Oban Town) at 3.30.  We were wet through.  7 and a half hours to complete 30 miles.  We parked on the fuel pontoon to start with as the wind was strong and the berths we had been directed to were full.  Obviously we could not stay on the fuel berth, but stayed two hours until the wind subsided.  I, almost jokingly, shouted ‘I Divorce Thee’ three times, once we were tied but.  But I don’t think it’s legal here!

18th July – Thursday

Swamped it down, as forecast.  Did washing.

19th July – Friday

There is a free ferry across to Oban Town.  It has to be booked with the office along with a return time.  After a misty morning the weather cleared and we caught the 12noon ferry.

Kerrera Ferry.

Fish and Chips for lunch at the Oban Fish and Chip restaurant, as recommended by Rick Stein (in 2002).  Excellent.  Lidl shopping, beer in Wetherspoons waiting for the ferry back.  Good Day.

Oban

Little did we know the day was about to get so much better.  A phone call from Mick’s Daughter Laura and Son-in-Law Damien to say that their daughter, Evie Egan, entered the world safely at 3.50 in the afternoon.  Grandad Bond and I are over the moon and we can’t wait to see her, she is soooo beautiful.

20th July - Saturday

A wedding party arrived in ferry boats this morning to have their wedding ceremony on the shore near the marina.

The bride and her dad.

We went for a walk around Kerrera in the afternoon.  The views are amazing.

Overlooking the Sound of Mull

Not a bad place to be a sheep.

We did 6 miles and 14k steps and still only managed to do half of the island.  There is a great need for signage.

21st July – Sunday

Ferry to town.  Wetherspoons Traditional Scottish Breakfast and coffees £10.50 for two, bargain and really good.  Tesco and Lidl, then a lazy newspaper day.

Sailors Port Info – Oban Marina

Located across Oban Sound this privately owned marina is a good place to stay a few days.  The Transit Marina in town has a 3 day stay limit, more of which later.

£31.50 per night plus £1 showers.  One return ferry ride per person per day is included in the price.  There is fuel available to paying guests only.  Washer £4, dryer £1.  Wifi Poor.  Restaurant is open every night.

The facilities are newly refurbished.  The owners and staff were very pleasant but ask them to check if there are spaces before you try to dock, as there is a sunken ship near the entrance which is off putting.

23rd July – Tuesday – Oban to Tobermory, Isle of Mull

When we used to keep Fleur in Largs, the only place I wanted to visit was Tobermory.  We only ever had two weeks holidays and the weather was never kind enough to allow it.  We were so near in Oban that it would have been a shame not to go.

We left Kerrera at 07.30 with a dark mist and black clouds.

Lady Rock Lighthouse at the narrows at the south end of the Sound of Mull.

The small lighthouse is on a spit which emerges directly from the large lighthouse.

Here the water converges and there are overfalls to deal with.  We did not have any problems with the overfalls, in either direction, even though they tossed us around a bit.  The navigators tide times have to be spot on as we were doing 7.8 knots with the tide, passing the lighthouses.

A beautiful break in the cloud.

The wind varied from 10 to 22 knots and was flukie all the way, the Genoa did not know whether it was coming or going.  Not since Windermere days have we experienced such sudden changes.

The navy training ship TS Royalist.  £4.8 million, two years old, goes around the country training navy cadets.  She turned up in Tobermory later.

Our first glimpse of Tobermory.

We arrived at 12.15pm after 25 miles.  We secured a mooring on the first-come-first-served pontoons half an hour before the Dutch, 21 boat flotilla arrived.  They are on a 9 week Round Britain Adventure Cruise with an organisation called Ocean People.  Our neighbours on Jack in a Box, were very friendly and we had some good chats. 

The Dutch Armada

The Dutch pontoon party.  They only had one, so that was ok.

24th July – Wednesday

A good jobs day, cleaning, gas, diesel, then I went for a mooch around the pretty shops.

In the afternoon I persuaded Mick out for a walk with the promise of an Ice Cream.  Isle of Mull Ice Creams in a small pink kiosk on the harbourside.  The imaginative flavours change every day.  Four days, 8 different flavours tried!  We also bought new Fixed Focus binoculars (7.5 x 50), we both wear glasses and have to change the focus each time we use our old ones, which Mick found in a skip years ago.  They are a massive improvement, so easy.

In my morning moochings I spotted a tiny sign at the end of the harbour saying Lighthouse 2kms.  Fueled by ice-cream we went up a slope and then onto a lovely enchanted path with trees touching above.

Views of the Sound of Mull and across to the Morvern Penninsula

Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse, at the end of the walk.

Our friends Steve and Ferne prescribed beers at the Mishnish pub, a good end to a good walk.

25th July – Thursday

Forecast to be the hottest day on record we decided against the 50 mile bus ride (each way), along single track roads to get to Fionnphort and the Ferry to Iona.  Well two buses to be precise and then returns.  We met a man on a bench whilst eating our ice creams, looking very frazzled.  He had just driven it and was in need of refreshment.   The other alternative was a Staffa Tours boat trip, at £65 each.  That is 6 sit-in chippy teas!  And they were full due to the holidays. 

We really think we will return here with the camper van, you need a vehicle to get around properly.

Only 23 degrees in Tobermory, compared to the heatwave further south.  We went to the small town museum, which passed an hour.   We also walked up above the town, where there is a nice gallery.

View from the Gallery.

26th July – Friday

We walked to Aros Park which is on the coast to west of the marina.  It is a circular walk interspersed with waterfalls.

The walk took around 2 hours, which was very pleasant in the sunshine.

My best picture, of many, of Tobermory.

We will be back here as there is much more to explore, hopefully with a vehicle.

Sailors Port Info: Tobermory Marina

The relatively new Marina Facilities and Aquarium.

View showing the marina pontoons and office.  There are numerous buoy moorings too, but don’t be scared, come for a closer look on arrival, as there are more pontoon moorings than you would think.  The approach angle is skewed and they are strangely ‘hidden’.

The whole marina suffers from wake-rattle-n-roll from the passing ferries and ships and a small yellow local boat which was a menace.

£28 per night.  Good facilities but Showers are £2, and use of the hairdryer 50p!  Most expensive so far, in 6 years!  Washer £3, Dryers £1.  Petrol Station next to Marina Office.  Very well stocked Co-op supermarket in town.  The wifi is poor and the phone signals are worse.  Makes for a relaxing visit.

Next stop, back to Oban for more Fish and Chips and a stock up before our next mission.

Mid July – Caledonian Canal, Inverness to Fort William

Our original intention for the year was to partially circumnavigate the UK, hopefully via the Orkneys.  The weather has not been kind, we also need to be near an Airport for the imminent arrival of Mick’s first grandchild in Dublin.  So we decided to head west via the Caledonian Canal and then think again at the other end.  Most of the sailors we have met so far this year have made the same decision.

The Caledonian Canal was built by Thomas Telford and opened in 1822.  It is approx 96.4km long, of which 22 miles are manmade.  There are 29 locks and 10 swing bridges, operated by Scottish Canals staff.

11th July – Thursday – To Seaport Marina, Inverness

Tide heights define the entry times to Clachnaharry Sea Lock. 

It was a foggy morning.  The crew would have waited an hour, but the skipper insisted.  Only 1.5km to the sea-lock.

Clachnaharry Sea Lock which we entered with a beautiful motor boat we had seen in Newcastle.

At this point Mick was taken off to the sea-lock office to pay our dues for traversing the canal.

Our 10.5m yacht costs £223 (£3 electric first night).  The cost includes 8 days passage and 7 nights moorings along the canal and a ‘Skippers Guide to the Caledonian Canal’.  The first night in the Seaport Marina is included in the overall cost, additional nights at Seaport are £10.

You will also be issued with a key on a black and white fob.  This is for entry into the canal-side facilities along the length of the canal.  They were generally adequate, with Fort Augustus being the best. 

As you can see the lock sides are stone, so make sure you have a fender board to position between your boat fenders and the lock wall.  Position it on the Starboard side to start with as Starboard is generally the working side for the lock-keepers.  But be prepared to move it quickly.

Our fender board showed battle scars quickly.

We then proceeded through the swing bridge and another set of locks to reach the Seaport Marina, positioned just before the first flight of locks.  We chose to stay here so that we could make an early start through the locks in better weather, hopefully.

There is a very handy Lidl and other stores down the hill from the Swing Bridge, so we stocked up.

Mick was winched half way up our mast by a Swiss gentleman to fix the Steaming light.

View of the Swing Bridge at the bottom of the Muirtown Flight from the marina.

Seaport Marina

It is a walk to the facilities but Lidl is very handy.  Fill up with water here.

12th July – Friday

Mick had spoken to the lock-keeper on the previous day to find out what time we could ascend the flight.  He was told there were 3 big boats passing through early an we would be able to enter at about 11.30am. 

Mick was watching the lock from our berth and saw other boats gathering.  So at 10.00am he decided we would move closer to the lock and raft up onto one of the waiting boats.  When we arrived they informed us that they had been told they could leave in about 20 minutes.  Hmmmm it’s going to be like that is it!

We went through the Swing Bridge and entered the lock at 10.45 with three other boats.  Mollymawk from Dartmouth, one Dutch boat and one fairly local boat.  We had the Starboard mooring behind the locals.

Muirtown Flight, Lock 1 of 4.

To start with they insist that you throw the whole of your Bow and then Stern lines to the lock-keeper and they link them over cleats and then hand them back to you.  You must not tie off your ropes during this process.  Up to Fort Augustus the locks will be rising.  So as the water flows in we just shorten the ropes until the boat is almost level with the top of the lock.

After the first lock people get the idea and we perform our tasks without much fuss.  Kevin and Duncan were our first lock-keepers and explained everything well.

A couple of miles after the locks is a small marina with a Chandlers, so we stopped to buy a new light bulb.  We had to wait for a Bridge at Tomnahurich above.

Again it was a bit hit and miss, as the lockkeepers had radioed ahead and we were told the bridge would open at 13.00, after lunch.  It eventually opened at 13.30.

The next lock at Dochgarroch was our last for today.  The lockkeepers had also radioed to Margaret the lockkeeper at Dochgarroch and she was expecting us and pointed us to a pontoon berth on the right after the lock.  The other boats we had been travelling with decided to press on to Loch Ness.  We decided to save Loch Ness for tomorrow as the weather forecast was better.  So we moored up at 3pm.  We had drizzly mist all day, but not enough to warrant a coat.  It is so much warmer inland.

There is a newly opened visitor centre called Atallan at Dochgarroch selling high end items and housing a beautiful cafe. 

When we moored we had a decent view of the lock, always entertaining.  However…

 

at 17.00 the ‘Jacobite Maverick’ (passenger cruiser, £22 per person) moored up for the night.  The cleaners arrived at 18.00 and ran the generator which emitted cooling water noisily from under the hull for the next two hours.  I understand people have to work.  This must happen every day.  If you get any choice, ask for a mooring further away from the lock.  Annoyingly there were several available.

13th July – Saturday – To Fort Augustus via Loch Ness

We had a peaceful night and left early when the generator started again at 08.10!

Loch Dochfour is a beautiful precursor to Loch Ness.  It is well buoyed.

Our first view of Loch Ness.  Wow photos just do not do it justice.

Sorry, could not resist.  Nessie spotting.

What you can’t make up is just how deep Loch Ness is.  We registered 175m and saw 182m but we don’t believe the instruments are that accurate at these extremes.

As the day progressed the weather became brighter and the views became even better.

We first visited Urquhart castle more than 15 years ago, and you could park at the roadside and walk to the castle.  Now the visitor centre dominates the scene when viewing from East to West.

The views kept rolling by.  We were so lucky with the weather,  it is worth waiting.

It is possible to anchor in many places along the canal, if that is your thing.

All good things come to an end.  Around lunchtime we arrived at Fort Augustus.  We moored up expecting to join a queue and tackle the next flight tomorrow.

Mick went and talked to the lock-keepers and they informed him there was another movement up the 5 locks at about 1.30.  We had managed to have a quick sandwich at the end of Loch Ness, thank goodness.

Le Boat operate many hire boats throughout the canal.  They are not given radio’s, so they just turn up at the locks and expect them to be opened.  The lock–keepers are hard pressed to keep order.

We were told we would be Portside to with 3 other boats.  Until a Le Boat pushed in at the front we would have been one of two boats on the port side.  We were now one of three and our stern was very close to the rear lock gate.

Fortunately, the LeBoat in front of us was occupied by 8 people.  At Fort Augustus because there were so many novices the lock keepers had to take their ropes.  So anyone else had to walk their boat through, managing their own ropes.  A nice Australian man called Derek from the boat in front volunteered to be our third crew member as they were over-staffed.

Fort Augustus locks are quite tight and the front LeBoat was buffeted badly by the incoming water as the locks rose.  Serves him right.

Derek told us that a boat for 8 people costs £2,500 per week.  There are smaller ones available.  They only get half an hours tuition.  We taught several how to tie their ropes.  They wear bright orange life jackets which are useful for spotting hire boats ahead.

Boats processing to the first lock, through the swing bridge. The town comes to a halt and the crowds gather.  The best spectator sport on a sunny afternoon is watching boats in locks.

First lock, Mick keeping Fleur away from the lock gates.

View forward into the lock, crowds gathering.

Second lock with water level low.

Lock with water level high and temporary crew Derek in his LeBoat orange life jacket.  Crowds had got bored by now.

It took 2 and a half hours to ascend the five locks as they all needed filling.  We owe Derek a big favour, sadly they progressed immediately at the top.  Thank You Derek.

We moored on the pontoons at the top of the Fort Augustus flight.

After a good shower and change we headed out into town for tea.

Where has everyone gone.

We ate at The Bothy near the swing bridge.  Old style pub grub.

Later we came across the Black Rock Ceilidh Band in the Richmond Hotel.  The pub was full behind me.  The sax player had been playing an Accordian.  

We met a Californian couple who were walking the ‘Great Glen Way’, which is 79 miles of paths along the canal.  We saw many cyclists, motorhomes, caravans along the way.  The A82 also runs the length of the canal.

Beautifully still evening.  View from the top of the locks.

Fort Augustus pontoon mooring.

We stayed here for two nights.  The day after I walked around town while Mick watched the British Grand Prix.  Excellent ice creams.

Bagpiper.  Love or Hate?

15th July – Monday - To Fort William

We set off at 0900 and the first lock had a picture perfect cottage and a lock-keeper who originated from our home town.  He recognised our accents. 

There were two locks and a swing bridge before Lock Oich, which was beautiful.

Small Island in Loch Oich, just to keep us on our toes.

The depth and clarity of the reflections are amazing.

Swing bridge at the end of Loch Oich.

Then the majesty of Loch Lochy.  Just when you think it can’t get better.

Loch Lochy.

Our first glimpse of Ben Nevis.

Two locks and two swing bridges at the end of Loch Lochy leading to Fort William along a pretty stretch of canal.

We moored at the top of Neptune’s Staircase on pontoons with views of Ben Nevis.

16th July – Tuesday – Neptune’s Staircase

Neptune’s Staircase is the last flight of locks in the Caledonian canal if you are travelling East to West.  It is a set of 9 locks with significant drops.

As seen on our navigation system.

We were advised that the first descent would be around 08.00.  The lock gates were opened by Andrew and Gillian the lock-keepers and we entered promptly with David and Sarah on Mollymawk, who we had entered the canal with 6 days ago.  There was supposed to be 4 boats going down, but the others did not appear despite 3 radio calls from Gillian.  Good news for us as it will be quicker and easier with just two boats.

Top of Neptune’s Staircase.

See the water mark on the walls of the lock.

David and Sarah on Mollymawk.

A blissfully uneventful one hour and 15 minutes later we were at the bottom, again walking Fleur through the gates with engine assistance.  We decided to stay in the Seaport Basin marina for the night.

In the afternoon we caught the N47 bus into Fort William from the bus stop on the road above the marina.  Corpach has a train station and occasional steam trains.  Sadly we had missed todays train.  Only £6.80 return for two on the bus.  There is great speculation at present, what Lewis Hamilton does between Grand Prix.  I am happy to report he is driving a bus in Fort William! 

Fleur in Corpach Basin marina with Ben Nevis in the background.

There is a Coop on the main road above the marina.  The carpark seems to attract lots of visitors.  Walkers, Cyclists, dog walkers, dog walking groups, motorhomes, people just cruising around to see what boats are in.

Beware the marina water level went down two feet while we were out, thank goodness we had some slack in the ropes, Mick had to alter the ropes of the boat next door.

The Caledonian canal is a great trip no matter which mode of travel you take.

Next stop Oban after a trying day.