Late June 2023 – Brixham

19th June – Monday – Weymouth to Brixham

We had informed the Harbour Master on Sunday, as a courtesy, that we would be leaving with the 08.00am bridge, as we were only passing through to the waiting pontoon.  See the 3 green lights on the bottom right.

Weymouth bridge outbound.

We made immediately for the waiting pontoon on the right.  There was a large Catamaran already waiting but he had left plenty of space for us.  He was heading straight to Norway we were heading the other way.

Once again we passed Border Force on our way out. 

Todays passage is all about timing.  We left the waiting pontoon at 09.00am to catch the tide around Portland Bill.  The navigation was planned to go outside the Shambles (buoy) and round the Bill at High Water Dover minus one hour, which was about Mid Day taking the outside passage as it was a Spring Tide.  The tides really run at this time of the month

The first few hours were quite calm and we even managed the first crossword of the year.  However, there were many fishing pots to avoid.  Approaching the Bill the sea became rougher and carried on as washing machine seas across Lyme Bay, out of sight of land for the rest of our 52 mile passage.  We arrived in Brixham at 18.30 after 9 and a half hours.   We were very tired and thoroughly shaken to bits.  The cold wind had been present all day too, on the nose.

We were very glad to see Brixham Harbour.

20th June – Tuesday – Rest

Rest with beer at The Mermaid.

21st June – Wednesday – Newton Abbot

At 11.30 a bit later than normal we set off for the £2 bus to Newton Abbot.  On Tuesday we saw Newton Abbot on the front of a bus and after a bit of googling decided to go.  The bus went through Paignton and Torquay which we visited last time. After one hour and 10 minutes later we arrived, what excellent value.  

The first place you see is the magnificent 7 day market hall.

St Leonards Tower dates back to the 12th century and marks the centre of this historic market town.

The Town Museum is again free with donations.

A full set of railway signal handles can be used to move the full sized signals nearby.  You need big muscles.

Heck the signals are big up close.

The converted church had been very well done and passed a good hour.

Newton Abbot has a gentile feeling and is obviously prosperous judging by the quality of Austin's Department store.

It was a very hot day and the return bus journey finished us off.  Back to The Mermaid.

22nd June – Thursday

Another very hot day lead us to seek shade in the Brixham Museum.  What a Tardis.  Lots to see and again a couple of hours passed quickly.

23rd June – Friday

The café on the beach near the marina lead us to the walk up Berry Head, which is the headland that forms the southern boundary of Torbay.  It is a national nature reserve and Iron Age Hill Fort.  Stone fortifications were built between 1794 and 1804 to protect the bay against French invasion.

After the Lido and the large hotel, look out for the path for Berry Head.

Big sky views of Torbay from Berry Head.

The café and visitor centre are worth stopping for.  The café is excellent.  There is also a very good video presentation explaining the history of Berry Head 

Berry Head lighthouse is still operational and well protected from vandals.  Vandalism can cost lives, as the signs say.

Stunning views to the South.

The Jurassic cliffs make a great home for Guillemots.

We came up because of the information we read the previous day at Brixham museum.  A garrison of several hundred soldiers defended the bay.  The fort was used by the Royal Observer Corp during the wars and cold war, an underground Cold War monitoring post was also constructed here.  Brixham was also a centre for D-Day preparations.

Brixham Harbour from the Berry Head Path.

Sailors Info

Top tip:  Pay for two days at a time, the longer you are there the cheaper it gets.

Brixham harbour has very good facilities.  The Town Centre is a 20 minute walk.

The bus station is hidden right in the centre of town.  The town is a warren with lots of steps and ginnels.

Small Tesco and Co-op supermarkets are available on the High Street.  There are lots of cafes, bars and restaurants to choose from.

Brixham Marina, with substantial breakwater.  We have really enjoyed Brixham.  The weather has helped.

We arrived in Plymouth on the 24th June.  This is the end of Part 1.  Part 2 starts at the end of July after a trip home.

Enjoy your summer.

Mid June 2023 – Lymington and Weymouth

12th June – Monday – Portsmouth to Lymington

We left our mooring at 06.30am to make the 18 mile trip to Lymington.  It is a flat calm day and perfect for Hovercraft.

Great action shot. 

A short time later the Solent became quite misty.  Not forecast but nothing like the French Fog seen previously.

After an uneventful passage we arrived in Lymington at 09.30am.  Lymington to Yarmouth ferries play in twos, and there is always one coming and one going whenever you arrive.

An early arrival and a tank of hot water courtesy of the engine, led to washing day then a walk into town.

The next couple of days were very hot, but we summoned the will to walk to the monument across the river from the marina.  Only because it was poking out from the trees and our curiosity won.

Admiral Sir Harry Burrard Neale was a jolly good chap by all accounts.

 

There are large plaques on each side of this obelisk extolling his virtues.  A gallant admiral who then spent his time and money supporting the poor, widows and orphans.  The people of Lymington wanted a permanent memorial to a well loved citizen of the town.

The Town Quay

Georgian shops leading to the High Street.

Sailors Info

We stayed for 3 nights at £153.

The facilities are still very good and additional ones are available on the pontoons.

It is a 20 minute walk to town with everything you may require, including several good chandlers.

15th June – Thursday – Lymington to Weymouth

We awaited the tide until 08.30am.  For once there were no ferries in the channel but we did see 3 boats from the Ellen MacArthur Cancer Trust on their way in.

They are impressive boats.  The trust encourages young people from 8-24 to attend 4 day sailing experiences throughout the UK.

We needed to pass Hurst Castle (above) in the North Channel as the tide started to turn westward.

With the tide behind us we passed Anvil Point at 9.1 knots and made good time to Weymouth, arriving at 15.00 after 42 miles in six and a half hours.

On the way into Weymouth we spotted The Osmington White Horse.  It is a hill figure cut into the Limestone of Osmington Hill just North of Weymouth in Dorset which was created in 1808.  It depicts King George III riding his horse.  He was a regular visitor to Weymouth.  I read that he was annoyed that it was facing away from Weymouth rather than towards it.  It was restored in 2012 for the Olympics.

River view Weymouth

Weymouth Bridge.  We sat on the waiting pontoon for the 16.00 bridge opening.  The guy in front had left us very little space, but Mick managed to reverse into the small space available.  We polished off the remaining sandwiches and drained the flask, under the close observation of the sightseers, lining the harbourside waiting for entertainment as the awaiting boats jostled before the bridge opening.

We had phoned ahead to be allocated a berth, which is more necessary at this time of year.  The boat in front had not……  He proceeded through the bridge with no clue where to go.  The dozen craft behind him were getting heated, as he very slowly drifted around, oblivious to the chaos he was causing.

While we were waiting we saw this lobster fishing boat arrive and get unloaded.

Additional supplies of lobster had been stashed in secure barrels under the pontoons from previous trips, to be sold together with todays catch as fresh.  Very enterprising.

16th June – Friday

We stumbled upon the Tudor House Museum after our coffee in the courtyard near the brewery.

It’s a little gem.  Free entry Donations are appreciated.

The house has survived since the 16th century including Floods, Plague and Wars.  It has many interesting items.

Including this rope tightener used to tighten the ropes on the bed, which supported the mattress.

Then onto tea.  Recommended internationally by Rebecca and Trevor currently on SV Dignity Too in Grenada.  The Marlboro Eat-In Chippy is located near the bridge.  The recommended delicacies on offer were Pea Fritters.  A ball of Mushy Peas expertly wrapped in breadcrumbs.  OMG.  Don’t knock it till you try it.  We have yet to figure out where the North/South divide occurs for these delights.     

The highlight of our day came afterwards in the cinema to see Greatest Days, the Take That, Mamma Mia styled movie, filmed partly in Clitheroe.  We were marshals on the film due to still being useful folks on the list after covid jab marshalling, and were excited to see the end result.

We booked the day before (just in case), we were the only people in the cinema to start with, eventually there were 10 of us.  The Clitheroe spotting was great fun as is the film.  Light-hearted but heartfelt.  We enjoyed it.  Quite a day all told.

18th June – Sunday

It was veterans day in Weymouth.

The parade started at 11.30 after a service on the promenade.

There were several groups of veterans, bands, cadets and then the military vehicle parade.

It made our day when one of the veterans flagged down a US Army jeep and hitched a lift, ‘one of the perks’ he shouted grinning cheerfully.

These ladies really epitomised the day. 

It being Weymouth, there is always a sand sculpture to admire.  It is the Kings turn this year.

Sailors Info

Boatfolk are in charge at Weymouth marina. 

It is very well managed and maintained.  New individual bathrooms are available and more are under construction.

£43 per night including electricity.  Excellent wifi.  Tesco, Asda and large shopping area nearby.

Next stop Brixham

Early June 2023 – Portsmouth

5th June – Monday – Brighton to Portsmouth

A slightly later start today, as we had to wait until 2 hours after Low Water to exit Brighton Marina with enough water under the keel.  Again keeping close in to the red buoys.

Once again we also had to dodge the fishing pots which had plagued us since Dover.

The tides were strong and the sea churned, after so many days of constant wind.  We steered for the first 3 hours against the tide, had an hour or so of respite with the auto pilot and then steered the next 4 hours with the tide in the rocky sea.

Mick planned the passage through the Looe Channel, past the Boulder Starboard channel buoy.  You can see how the buoy is being taken by the strong tide as we whooshed through at 9 knots.

The 43 miles took 8 hours and we arrived at Haslar Marina at 15.20pm.  A very tiring day. 

The Spinnaker Tower, Portsmouth is a welcome sight, directly opposite Haslar Marina in Gosport.

Tuesday was a shopping, cleaning and jobs day.

The Solent channel is always busy with lots of interesting vessels.  Above is a windmill blade entering port.

7th May – Wednesday – Into Portsmouth

We crossed on the ferry (£4.80 per person for a day ticket). 

Greeted by HMS Warrior as part of the Portsmouth Dockyard Museum complex, tempting passers-by.  We have trodden that path, and as good as it is we wanted to see a bit more of Portsmouth.  The Cascade Shopping centre on Commercial Road forms the centre of the retail area, overshadowed now by Gun Wharf Quay.  On the map we spotted the Town Museum, so headed that way.

Portsmouth is a mix of every type of architecture, having been severely bombed during WW2.  The Guild Hall is a survivor.  Northern readers may spot its resemblance to Bolton Albert Halls, which is its architectural twin, albeit a little larger.

Portsmouth museum is a little way out of the centre and a little hard to find considering it is enormous.  It was one part of a 3 garrison complex.

The free museum has a comprehensive collection relating to Sherlock Holmes and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.  There are obviously displays of the towns maritime history.

Upstairs are several rooms representing different eras.  Those of us of a certain age will recognise many items above.  The TV played Andy Pandy, Bill and Ben etc on a loop.   Drag me away.

Finally there was a fascinating display of crafts which are in danger of going extinct.  Including a video about making wooden ladders, featuring an old craftsman passing on his knowledge.

As entry was free, as usual, we headed to the café for a homemade cake and coffee.  It is worth searching out these gems of municipal museums.

We ended the day in grand style at Gun Wharf Quay, luxury outlet and entertainment area.  High end shops at almost reasonable prices.  Mick stayed in the Custom House hostelry while I had a proper look round.  Drinks in the sunshine, out of the wind.

8th June – Thursday – Arundel Castle

Arundel has been on my list for 30 plus years since my mum and dad went during a holiday to Eastbourne.  We bought the train tickets from the lovely lady at Portsmouth Harbour ticket office, who gave us yesterdays map.  She is being made redundant soon as all ticket offices are to close.  She was a great help to us.

We were up early and caught the 8.00am ferry, £4.80.  The railway station is right next to the Ferry Terminal.  We were early so bought a regular non-saver return ticket £28 for 2.  After changing at Barnham we arrived at Arundel station at 09.45 ish.  Online everyone tells you to get a taxi to the castle.  But it was only a 10 minute walk to the castle gates, which open at 10.00am.  Even the taxi lady told us to walk.

The first view after the gates.  Arundel is the ancestral home of the Dukes of Norfolk and is held in a charitable trust. 

The gardens, rose garden, Fitzalan chapel and the Castle Keep are open from 10am, the Staterooms open at 12 noon.

Rose Garden

Rose Garden, the smell was amazing.

Fitzalan Chapel.  The roof was modelled on the roof in Westminster Hall in London.  The church is split into two by a large iron gate.  The Dukes of Norfolk have always been a Catholic family and after the Reformation the family were allowed to keep half of it as all their ancestors are buried here.  The other half carried on in the Protestant faith.

The Keep Portcullis

The impressive Arundel Cathedral of Our Lady and St Philip Howard, seen from the gardens.  We heard there was a special display in there which was ending today.  Staff on the back entrance stamped our hands, for re-entry and let us have a look.

The display was a beautiful annual flower carpet, filling the isle of the church.  Similar to Well Dressings.  There were also wonderful displays of flowers throughout the cathedral.

Back to the castle, where entry to the Keep is via the moat.

Inside the castle keep, which is a similar age to Clitheroe Castle 12C.  There are 3 floors within the tower and tight spiral staircases to negotiate.

We had lunch in the main café at 12.00 to let the first wave of visitors pass.  The food was good and not silly money.

The first wow is the Grand Hall.  Where there are many artefacts to distract us.  Including a Van Dyck painting of King Charles the first.

Queen Victoria’s bedroom, one of many on display.

There are so many amazing rooms, dining rooms, sitting rooms etc.

The final wow is the library.  Above is half of it.  Again so many artefacts to explore, including a signed declaration by Elizabeth the first..

The last destination is the water gardens.  We left after 5 hours, our heads full of memories.

Arundel inc Gardens and Bedrooms (which are sometimes in use and not available to view) - £59 for two with Gift Aid, £10 back to spend in the café.  Expensive but so impressive.

We had a walk about in Arundel centre which has many bespoke shops and cafes.  Then back to the station.  Once again we ended our day in Gun Wharf Quay, eating at the Custom House.  A day to remember.

While we were out HMS Queen Elizabeth, aircraft carrier appeared today.

Friday – we did nothing

10th June – Saturday – Southwick Revival

Earlier in the week our friends Nigel and Mary contacted us about a 1940s revival they were attending, asking if we fancied joining them.  Yes please, tickets were quickly purchased on line.  The village of Southwick turns back the clocks to the 1940s and the whole village gets involved. 

They collected us from the Marina at 09.00ish and we arrived by 9.30 to the car park.  The motorcade of vehicles was due at 10.00am and just started as we approached the main street.  Every kind of military vehicle you could think of passed by.  Some louder than others.

A steam bus took passengers round the village all day.

A Tank heading up the high street.

Mr Mannering with Pike in the back.  So many people were dressed up in 1940s fashions too.

Mick and Nigel were booked in to see a presentation by Bruce Crompton of Combat Dealers TV programme fame. 

He provided them with an insight into his unusual life and his recent parachuting accident, with lots of anecdotes of his adventures in the military.

Mary and I toured the many vintage stalls and historic artefacts.  Stopping for tea and cake in the Memorial Hall.

There were excellent displays in the church about Operation Overlord, the planning for D-Day which was devised in nearby Southwick Hall, which became the headquarters of the main allied commanders led by General Eisenhower. 

We had a stop in the Golden Lion, then to the tea rooms for burgers, made outside.  We saw the fashion parade and best dressed competition, and another stop at the Red Lion.  There was also a funfair and play area and brass band.

The vast display of vehicles and the re-enactment camp were fascinating.

Beautiful cottages in the village.   

Lady demonstrating a sock knitting machine in the encampment.

The yanks were here too.

Waiting for the final Motorcade at 4.30pm.  Mick, Ann-Marie, Nigel and Mary.

Mr Churchill made an appearance in the second parade.  We had seen him in the church and the pub.  He is Rent-A-Churchill and apparently makes many appearances around the country.

What a terrific day out.  It was a long day, and very hot, we paced ourselves well with breaks and I am glad we stayed till the end.  A great day out for a £8 ticket, bargain too.

We headed back to the marina for dinner.  In passing we had to move the boat as the berth-holder of the mooring we were in was returning due to engine trouble.  Glad we had more hands to help.

We had a quick brew onboard before dinner at The Creek, marina restaurant.  Just what we needed after a long but enjoyable day.

Thank you both so much for asking us to join you, we learned so much.

Spinnaker Tower lit up for Pride Month.

Sailors Info

Haslar Marine is run by Boatfolk.  Same as Conwy.

They give a discount of 7 nights for the price of 6.  Approx £38 per night.  Normally £43.

The facilities are new, in an individual bathroom configuration with hairdryers in each.  Some people insist on meddling with the radiators, which in this weather is very annoying and wasteful of energy.

Easy access to local shops and restaurants.  Easy ferry to Portsmouth.  Aldi, Morrisons and Iceland supermarkets.

What a great stay.  Lymington next, for a rest.