11th July – Friday – Lorient, Port Louis to Kerneval

Bought bread at the Boulangerie at Port Louis (just above the marina).

Just a short trip across the river to Kerneval from Port Louis.  Kerneval is the only place in Lorient where Diesel is available. 

We did not really give Kerneval a fair chance on our last visit so went for a walk along the seaside to see if we could find the town.  A pleasant seaside town emerged, more tailored to the older visitor, but with enough to make it worth a walk.  Two small supermarkets meant we did not have to go and trek to the large one, as last time.

We have seen many small art ‘Expositions’ on this trip.  They are held in old churches and village halls and are varied in their quality.  This one displayed several local artists work.  The two of note were firstly a very industrial artist, who depicted Fred Dinah type machinery, in great detail.  The second was a man who made small items from Cow bones.  It looked a bit like ivory, but was quite white and much heavier than anticipated.  I always wonder with these people how they make a living.

Kerneval marina cost 34 Euros per night this time.  (+16 euros on none season rate).

8th July – Tuesday - Port Haliguen to Port Louis, Lorient

09:00 to 15:30 – 6.5 hours to do 28 miles.  When leaving Port Haliguen to go North you have to take a wide birth around the rocks.  There is a very attractive lighthouse on the rocks. 

The tide was running against us in the morning and in the afternoon the wind blew up, on the nose again.  We saw French boats tacking through the wind over the rocky areas going into Port Louis but we played it safe.  The sails had to come down as the wind was a struggle to steer against.  There are some impressive large racing yachts in Lorient which were being put through their paces.  It is a very busy harbour with everything from ferries to canoes, full vigilance required.

We came to Lorient on our way down, but were turned away from Port Louis due to a festival.  This time the lovely young lady in the dorey boat directed us to a pontoon and even took our ropes.

They are building a new Marina office, therefore the facilities are currently in Porta-cabins, but are good, clean and free.  The marina is 28 euros per night.

The lady informed us there was a market in the streets of Port Louis tonight so we went straight out for a look.  They were setting up, so we went back to the boat for tea and ventured out again later.

Our chambers of commerce would do well to heed this lesson as the evening market was a roaring success.  All the businesses, cafes and restaurants all stayed open and the place was buzzing, just for the sake of a few road closures, no drama, just common sense.

This man was selling ‘Tarte Flambe’ which are like thin Pizzas, cooked over a large wood burner.  The safety elf would have an apoplexy.  People then ate their tartes on bench seats, at long tables, under a homemade tarpaulin, easy and fun for all the family.

Many different types of stalls lined several streets and a party atmosphere was helped along by street singers, bands and young people outside a bar drumming along to music, different but enjoyable.  I managed to squeeze in a chocolate crepe and we bought 4 flavoured sausages.

9th July – Wednesday

Jobs day.  Thoroughly cleaned the boat, she has done us proud so far and needed treating.  Mick changed all the oils and filters and serviced the engine.  We rewarded our efforts with a Full French Breakfast, everything was French except the Beans and Sausage.

We managed to wet the bed, as we (he) left a window open during servicing which was not shut during washing.  Slightly embarrassing looking sheets to hang out.

Full wash and brush up of ourselves and the boat prior to our night out.  I know… another.  That’s 2 in 2 weeks.  Joy.

The pizza restaurant Il Pirata had been recommended by Gordon and Louise.  We located it on the night of the market and were eager to try it.  The Pizza’s were excellent, with ample toppings and lovely thin crusts.  We put pictures on Facebook and got many comments.  Let’s face it, people like pizza.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had a walk around the Citadel, it was a lovely sunny night and a good end to a days hard work.

10th July – Thursday

Very sad news from home regarding the death of a work colleague and friend, once again re-enforces our trip.  We then took some time to gather our thoughts and headed to town as previously planned.

Lorient is a large town about the size of Manchester, but with sea.  The streets are on a grid pattern and are mostly modern, presumably due to the war. We paid only 2.70 euros for a ferry from Port Louis Marina to Port de Peche, and a bus (quarter past and quarter to the hour from the marina) into town.  Bargain.

Had a good look around, it’s strange now living on a boat with limited space that shopping has lost some of its appeal, and I don’t need anything and we have nowhere to put it anyway.  (Yes I did just say that).

Picture of Mick pointing out the boat location with a bagette.

7th July – Monday – Pornic to Port Haliguen

aka Port Hooligan.

07:45 start for the 10 hour, 50 mile trip.  The sea was very flat with a very strong under-current, which made the boat roll about a lot.  We had a good proper sail this afternoon. 

Port Haliguen had been recommended by Gordon and Louise and did not disappoint.  The marina is modern and clean with free showers.  Again a bread man visits at morning.  The charge is currently 36 euros per night, most expensive yet.  The large Casino supermarket is a 10 minute walk from the marina, on the road into town.

We had a good look around the seaside town which was a combination of old buildings and very modern ones.  There were quite a few antique shops and galleries mixed with the usual seaside shops.  Regular ferries go from here to Belle Isle.

I decided we should walk back along the seaside.  (Turned out to be payback for the Dunoon walk last year).  Many hotels, two camp sites, a family entertainment complex and a small aerodrome later and our very long day turned into an epic.  Salad and bed exhausted.

30th June – Monday - Ile D’Yeu to Pornic

Just over 6 hours to sail the 33 miles.  The journey was very swelly, I steered most of the way.  The sea was still very roly from the previous few days wind, and the sea is not very deep in this area, which does not help.

We heard from Gordon and Louise on Camira today, they are going to come to Pornic tomorrow, yeah.

We had a walk into town just to get our land legs.  The walk (15-20 minutes) is every bit as pretty as defined in the pilot books. 

The town is overlooked by Blue Beards Castle, which is privately owned, so no nosey-ing.  Still it makes a lovely backdrop.  Lots of streets and backstreets full of small shops.

1st July – Tuesday

Gordon and Louise arrived on ‘Camira’ early in the morning and we went to their boat for a chat and a brew.  It is so good to see people we know.  They have been having the same experience so it was great to swap stories.

Another walk into town.  There are two supermarkets, a small Casino (up near the market place) and a large SuperU up the hill from the train station.

Gordon and Louise came to us for a drink or several.  They have been to places we haven’t and vice versa so we had loads to talk about.

 

2nd July – Wednesday

Walked to Sainte Marie sur Mer.  There is a lot of money around here, the houses are stunning.  We seem to always time the walks for when the shops are shut, so as we needed to replenish wine stocks for our visit to Camira, we walked back to Pornic town through a well kept golf course and stumbled across a stone megalith (like Stonehenge but smaller).  From one side it looked like a pile of old stones, but the other side revealed two entrance ways to two separate rooms, which apparently is very unusual.

We were invited back to Camira tonight and had a great night waxing lyrical, annoying the guy on the next boat, and generally having a lovely time.  Anyone who has been out with us will recognise Mick in the next picture in full flow.

3rd July – Thursday

Pain and Croissants were bought by Mick from the Pain Van.  During the season, a man arrives at the marina every day at 09.00 and sells bread, pastries and croissants from his van, lovely.

My request to go to the Market for my special day was probably not the best idea after a night of waxing lyrical.  All parties were a little delicate.  Nevertheless a good walk clears the mind.

The market is held on Thursdays and Sundays from 07.00 to 15.00 and was worth the walk.  The market hall is surrounded by stalls and more stalls flow down the surrounding streets too.  The food on offer was not really handover cure material so we had a quick skip round and promised to re-visit on Sunday.  Bought some macaroons as a treat.  Back to the boat to enjoy the sunshine.

Lots of lovely messages on text and Facebook.  Annette cleverly got me an electronic crochet book, so i have an excuse to find wool now. (Thanks xxxx)

Meal at the ‘Coeur & Creme’ restaurant on the harbour-side in town.  Great food and not silly money either.

Gordon and Louise popped round with a card (from them and 2nd mate Padstow the bear)  and we had a small drink to celebrate.

4th July – Friday

Lazy day, washing, made covers for windows.  Like mop caps to use as shades on the roof windows.  Made from an Aldi microfibre towel, which had not lived up to expectations.  Everything has to earn it’s living aboard.  If it not beautiful or useful (William Morris) it’s going, no passengers.

Just snoozing when a commotion occurs in front of our boat.  An old boat with four elderly French people had decided to park between ours and the one behind us.  It was quite windy and the old vessel was difficult to manoeuvre.  I was quickly hanging over the bow of our boat fending off their old, solid wood, Boom whilst Mick and another French man were trying to prevent them hitting the boat behinds us.  It would have made a great comedy sketch.  We find out, when all is calm and secured, that they are here temporarily waiting for the tide to rise so that they can go into the old harbour in the town centre.  Lucky us, they will soon be moving it.  However it was still windy when they decided to move on.  A speedy reverse turn across to the other pontoon and a loud bang indicating their connection with a motorboat.  Lots more loud French was heard and they lurched across to the front of our boat and stopped, precariously, once again.  We again helped to fend them off another British boat, while they went to assess any damage they may have caused.  They assessed there was no damage, and they departed tout suite, much to the joint sign of relief from the rest of us.

Very windy night, boat rocking and rolling on the pontoon.  It being the only drawback of this marina, the P1 visitors pontoon has great views of the sea, but is therefore quite exposed.  Still good for sea sickness training.

5th July – Saturday

Windy and Raining all day.  Trip to supermarket, Chicken Curry, first hot meal I have cooked for a while, its been wall to wall salads.

I popped to see Gordon and Louise and confirmed they would be leaving Monday also, having consulted the many weather forecasts.

A lot of time is spent consulting weather data.  We are using several weather forecast channels.  Meteoconsult which is French (but can be read in English) and gives good sea state information.  XCweather gives good information which is regularly updated.  The marina offices all post weather information too, which is handy when the wifi is poor.

6th July – Sunday

A more focused look around the market today.  Loads of stalls selling very tempting dishes.  We were won over by the man selling springs rolls 1 euro each.

We had decided to walk to the other side of the town and found a Carousel and a stall selling ‘Chichi’s’ which are long thin doughnuts which you can dunk in melted chocolate. (Churros in Madrid).  Made me smile alot, yum.

Long walk to walk off the Chichi’s.  Again some stunning houses with their own fishing huts.  They use these to fish normally but also to lower large nets into the water to lure the sea creatures onto.  It’s cheating if you ask me.

Gordon and Louise came for pre-dinner drinks as we all wanted to be able to sail the following day.  We have had a real break this week in Pornic and seeing Gordon and Louise again has really made it special.  We wish them the very best for their onward journey and hope to see them again sometime in the future. 

Pornic Marina has been great.  The marina office is well run and the boys on the boat were very helpful.  The charge went from 28 to 34 euros per night as the ‘Season’ began on the 1st of July.  The showers are clean and free, with covered plug sockets.  The wifi is available in the marina office.  The walk to the supermarket is a delight, and though approximately 20 minutes, we did not tire of it.  Pornic is a must-do stop over in this area.

28th June – Saturday – Les Sables D’Olonne to Ile d’Yeu

8.00am start for the 33 miles which took six and a hour hours.  The weather forecast was for showers, showers my eye!  It started raining about 1 hour after we left and bucketed down for the next five and a half hours.  Soggy sandwiches and rain diluted tea.  We arrived at the Island in pouring rain and a sea swell which prevented us from laying fenders and ropes for safety’s sake until we got into the harbour, which we knew we could, having visited before.  I have never been so wet without being in a swimming pool.

We have returned here as it is a perfect mid point between Les Sables D’Olonne and Pornic, our next new destination.  We came today even though ‘Showers’ were forecast because the yacht race was due to re-commence on Sunday and parts of the approaches to the town were restricted for the race, so we thought we would make a quick exit.

29th June – Sunday

Windy day forecast so staying put.  Quick walk around the Sunday market.  Supermarkets are all closed.

The summer season is making its presence felt with the arrival of many visitors from the mainland.  Great people watching, during a second walk along the harbour-side and breakwater.  Watched a two masted, traditional galleon type ship taking passengers out into the bay at approximately 18.00.  The wind and swell made the large vessel pitch and roll through the waves and we were sure we had made the right decision to stay another day.

25th June – Wednesday - Les Sables D’Olonne

10.30 start for the 37 miles sail from La Rochelle which took eight and a half hours as we were sailing against the tide for two thirds of the journey.  It was very sunny but windy, so no sunshade required, but we had had enough of the constant wind by the time we arrived at 19.00.  We got a good berth on ‘H’ pontoon and had a good view of the racing yachts.  (Previously we were on ‘B’ pontoon a little near to the football bar – they were in fine voice until 2.00am – the perils of travelling during the World Cup – I love my earplugs).

26th June – Thursday

Big shop at SuperU in the morning, small incident as one of the wheels came off the trolley, so roadside repairs were required. 

Part of the marina had been given over to the ‘La Solitaire du Figaro’ which is a yacht race for ‘Le Figaro Beneteau 2’ yachts which are 10.10 metre, 1 design, mono-hull’s.  The race is in its 45th year and is considered a precursor race for yachtsmen and women hoping to compete in the Vendee Globe.  The route is from Deauville, Plymouth, Roscoff, Les Sables D’Olonne and finishes in Cherbourg.  Many previous winners of the Vendee Globe have competed in this tough race.

The yachts made quite a spectacle and the public were able to look up and down the pontoon and observe the preparations for the next leg.  A sideshow of journalists, stalls and pop-up bars were following the race so lots to look at.

We had a walk to the main town and shopping streets and along the promenade.

27th June – Friday

Took the opportunity to dye my hair as the showers are free with no time limit.

Walked to the Flea Market which was a little disappointing, but signs appeared to promise more during the ‘Season’.

Took the solar bus to Le Chaume, the older part of town at the other side of the river, Mick observed the solar bus also had a large re-charging plug. (its not Mick in the picture)

Continued with a walk around the headland to the large lighthouse ‘L’Armandche’ and found a nice footpath which passed an open air public swimming pool filled by the sea, an old church with an Art Exhibition and old gents playing boules.  All very pleasant.

Mick also enjoyed watching a large new expensive (probably more than half a million pounds) Catamaran being launched.  It was simply towed like a small boat by a tractor and launched down the public slip with little ceremony.  The traffic was stopped, people stood and stared and there was not a yellow jacket or method statement in site. (observe the man stood on top on his phone)

We really enjoyed Les Sables D’Olonne, as previously stated it is the best operated marina we have so far encountered.

24th June – La Rochelle Cont…

Very relaxing day.  I made the sunshade a bit more useful by threading some string through both the longest edges, so now it can be tied to the boat at 4 points and moved around as the sun moves around.  3 or 4 moves a day does the trick, it really makes a big difference to the comfort of sitting inside and outside of the boat.  Ideally it would be a couple of feet longer, we may stumble on a suitable piece of cloth.

I had also previously fashioned some cardboard window shades which are used to let the windows be open for air-flow but prevent the sun making the inside of the boat too warm.  Again more suitable materials may present themselves but at present these do the job.

Mick mended the computer.  The backlight had stopped working on the screen, so it was dismantled and re-assembled and started working.  So we are now back to full computer power.

The marina at La Rochelle is massive and has to be seen to be believed.  They are currently making it bigger!  So there was a bit of noise from the JCB’s moving massive rocks to make another breakwater.  They seemed to work in the cooler hours, so all night.  It was some distance from us but the noise did spoil the relaxing atmosphere.   

The marina cost Euros 24 per night, but we got 3 nights for the price of 2.  The facilities were clean and modern, but you had to pay 1 euro for 7 minutes for a shower at a machine.  Wifi was 1 euro per day extra and was very fast.  There is a very small supermarket on the marina and many cafes and restaurants, but we needed a big shop.  There is a Monoprix in town and a Carrefour but we did not find it.

We had intended to stay longer but cut the stay short as we had explored the town.