19th July – Saturday – Brest to Roscoff

04.20 get up for a 4:45am start.  12 hour day to complete the 66 miles arriving 16.30.

We had to set off in the dark very early to catch the river tide out of Brest and ensure we timed the tide correctly to navigate through the Chenel du Four.

Early in the morning there was a slight mist, by the time we got to the Chenel it was thick fog.  The sea was very still and the Chenel undercurrent came was we passed through.  There was between 10 and 50 metres visibility and we were relying solely on electronic navigation to see us through the passage.  The tide was running at 4 knots and we achieved 8.3 knots over the ground, not being able to see much past the front of the boat, negotiating the swell and current, which was trying its best to take us off course.  I steered through this section and was quite anxious for most of the time.  We occasionally glimpsed other boats in the mist and once a motor boat came from nowhere and was only 20 metres from our port side.

Interestingly, the fog was so thick it made a water vapour covering over everything on the boat, including ourselves, I actually had dew on my eyelashes and eventually took off my glasses as they we constantly misted.  The mist occasionally gathered to make large water droplets, like big very clumsy raindrops.  We had never seen anything like this before.

It must be noted at this point that the weather forecast gave clear skies with 5 miles visibility for today.  In the middle of the morning the French coast guard came over the radio to advise everyone that fog had been reported and to navigate with care!  Horse…Bolted!

Above shows the navigational instruments, during Chenel du Four.  Left - Baring to Waypoint 339, Course Over the Ground 335, Speed over the Ground 8.5 knots (usually 4 or 5), Distance to Waypoint 2.03 Nautical Miles.  Right – Depth 14.8 metres, Speed through the water 4.7, Distance travelled 11.50 nm.  The tide was increasing our speed over the ground by 4 knots.

Just after the Chenel the fog cleared for about 20 minutes and then came down again.  So much so that ourselves and the other sailors were using our air-horns at assess distances between ourselves.

When the mist finally cleared we had a sunny, clear run into Roscoff.  It being a Saturday many local people were out fishing in their small crafts, so the afternoon was spent dodging fishermen, who do not appreciate you getting too close to their lines, but who also set off or change direction at a seconds notice straight into our path without a thought.  We smiled and waved!

We arrived at Roscoff and were met by the dory who sent us to ‘F’ pontoon, not the usual visitors berths.

Info: Roscoff marina was built in 2008, next to the Brittany Ferry terminal.  All the pontoons are brand new and wide. The facilities were porta-cabins for a while.  There are two lots of facilities along the main pontoon and then excellent new toilets and showers in the marina complex which have only opened this year (2014).  They are still a few signs short and everyone who came into the toilets went first to the showers then muttered to themselves and eventually found the loos.  I directed 5 sets of people whilst drying my hair.  The complex holds a chandlery, shop, cafe/restaurant and the marina offices.  28 euros per night.

20th July – Sunday

Roscoff town is a 20 minute walk, which is signposted, ‘Petit Citie’.  It is unexpectedly attractive, being so close to the ferry terminal.  A lighthouse marks the start of the tiny town, which has a couple of tiny streets, a church and a quayside square with cafes.

Roscoff is where the French onion sellers originated.

We bought some bread and custard tarts which we ate on the harbour-side.  Then slowly walked back to the marina, past an enclosure of camels and lamas, being aired in the sunshine, part of a visiting circus.  Then on past a Mama Mia style, tiny church on the top of a hill which was holding an open air service.  Complete with refreshments stall for the parishioners, just like at home.

16th July – Wednesday – Brest

Brest is one of the largest cities in France.  It is dominated by the castle which holds the Maritime Museum.  On the first day we just had a walk around, it was very foggy, to the extent that the fog siren was sounding.  The town is built on a grid pattern and has many shops, new squares and a metro.  Found a McCafe French style, cappucino and a lovely biccie for 2.60 Euro, bargain.

We have both read ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’, Mick took 4 days (speed reading), I took 4 weeks and finished it today, but what a cracking story of wrong doing and revenge.  Kept us both enthralled, you need time though, and a kindle is deceptive when trying to judge the length of a book!

17th July – Thursday

Washing done and dry in 2 hours!!

Tourist trip around the Castle ‘Chateau Maritime Museum’, 6.5 euros including English audio guide.  The castle itself is impressive, parts have been rebuilt, during the tour there is a video showing the town after the war, totally ruined.

The tours takes you through the castle which also houses the museum.  There is a famous set of models made for one of the Louis’s which show ships interiors and how they are made, there are many relics from 16th century maritime explorations made by the seafarers of Brest.  Brest is a seafaring town and they are proud of their heritage and achievements.  There are a set of larger than life-sized sculptures of Greek gods which made an impressive display and were part of the wood carvers art used in the making of ships.  The museum then changed tack and displayed modern models and artefacts from submarines and warships of the 20th century.  Items which would normally not be seen and would go to the breakers yard.

There are a big thunder and lightning storm tonight.  We had left the bedding airing, fortunately under the canopy, unfortunately not all of it was under the canopy.  Fortunately the skies cleared and we just managed to dry everything before bedtime, with the help of the de-humidifier.

Met Donald and Deirdre on ‘Daylight Xpress’ and had a lovely evening chatting about life.

18th July – Friday

I have not yet mentioned the steps which lead from the marina to the main town.  Big old stone steps which just manage to wear out your legs near the top.  I cannot resist humming the ‘Eye of the Tiger’ tune and jumping up and down a bit when we get to the top. (da da daaaa, da da daaaa etc).  

Hypermarket shop, trolley, 2 rucks sacks and 2 bags. Up and down the steps.  Second wheel fell off trolley, this time un-repairable, we are down to our last trolley.

Early night as early start Saturday.

Info: The Marina is large and the visitor pontoon is a few minutes walk to the ‘Marina de Chateau’ capitainerie’s office (above), which is very well run and welcoming. There are two sets of facilities, one set in a cabin on the visitor jetty, which are new and clean, but have no mirror or plug socket, and no ventilation.  However, for the extra walk,  the facilities on shore are excellent (best yet), new, clean and free.  Marina charge was 33 euros per night.  There is a boulangerie 7 minutes walk along the sea front.  A small Carrefour City supermarket on the main street, approx 15 minutes walk and a huge L’Eclerc Hypermarket, upstairs, at the top of the main street approx 30 minutes walk away.

14th July – Monday - Concarneau to Sainte Evette then to Brest via Raz de Sein

7 hours to make the 30 miles, very swelly.

Arrived in Sainte Evette and took up a mooring buoy along with several of the other British boats we were moored with in Concarneau.  We have not moored often but managed a pitch perfect manoeuvre with me at the helm and Mick picking up the buoy with the boat hook, first time.  I thank you.

I was not really looking forward to mooring but we had no option.  The mooring was roly poly at first as the Ferry was coming and going to the Ile de Sein.  A young man in the marina dory boat came to take our money, only 11.50 Euros for the night.  He also took our bread order!

Early night as the Raz needs our full concentration.

The Sainte Evette Fireworks started just after 11.00pm and it would have been rude not to poke our heads outside for a look.  Very good and no concert.

15th July – Tuesday

The bread delivery arrived with a different young man in the dory boat.  This country has their priorities sorted and food is high on the list.  You can tell he really loved having his picture taken by an older person in her PJ’s. 

We all set off at roughly the same time, we left at 11.10.  Another flotilla of boats going through the Raz de Sein in an orderly fashion on the best day this week for the times, tides and weather.  The weather was very foggy when we set off, approximately 100 metres visibility.  With all the electronic charts and GPS it is safe so long as you keep clear of the other boats.  It’s amazing how they were lost in the mist very quickly and when the mist cleared a little we were in approximately the same formation.  We had to get to near the Le Plate tower accurately at the right time to pass through correctly.  This time going North it was 5 and a quarter hours after high water Brest.  We passed at 13.05 and then the sea state became very roly and swelly.  The supermoon, had made this journey even more tricky than usual, with 3 metre swell on top of a huge spring tide.

The mist cleared about an hour after Le Plate and we had a pleasant journey into Brest.  You pass a Jurassic coastline with extraordinary rock formations, which seemed almost touchable in the clear afternoon light.

When entering Brest you pass the naval base and at springs the tide runs through the narrows at 4 knots, we achieved 9.3 knots over the ground.  Mick had to judge the marina entrance well as it would be easy to over shoot and would have been very hard to get back.  Also you are warned in the pilot books not to enter the military zone, which keeps you on your toes.

We chose Brest as we had been to Camaret and Brest is a large city with lots to investigate.

12th July – Saturday – Lorient Kerneval to Concarneau

08.45 to 15.30 – just over 6 and a half hours to make the trip from Lorient to Concarneau.  It was a cloudy day with a biting northerly wind, the weather did get better as the day progressed and there was no swell.

We had our obligatory walk which Mick now calls ‘Orientation’, I call it ‘Curiosity’.  He loves it really.

Concarneau turned out to be a corker.  We had passed the walled Citadel on our way into the harbour which is just outside it.  From the marina you walk passed the usual shops and cafes, then at the end of the street there is a large car park, which was playing host to a local gathering who were sat at long benches eating seafood bought from stalls, whilst listening to bagpipe music!!

I have not yet mentioned the Celtic connection.  We have seen many Irish pubs and shops, particularly noticeable in Lorient.  As in Cornwall, the people of the Bretton region are Celts, and they regard themselves as Celtic, with Music festivals, elf type characters etc to celebrate the fact.

I digress.  We walked into the walled Citadel and were greeted by the most charming street of shops and cafes you can imagine.  It was like a Harry Potter street for real.  Timbered houses and shops, jammed together, to make a feast for the senses.  I am sure Disney must have visited here for ideas.  The Citadel itself was impressive enough, but to find the delightful interior was a real treat.

13th July – Sunday

We went back into the Citadel to walk the ramparts.  Tip: Walk to the end of the street and walk back on the ramparts for free.  I know we are tight, but everyone does it.

There was a Celtic band playing in the entrance and they played ‘Galway Girl’ just like the band ‘Blood Shot Eyes’ at the ‘Hole ‘ith Wall’ pub in Bowness, Windermere.  Very nostalgic for us, many happy Friday nights of singing therapy after working weeks.

Ventured out again later in the evening as it was the night before Bastille Day and there was a concert in the main square and then fireworks on the promenade (20 minutes including a heart shaped one).  The lady sang ‘zeez bootz are made fo wacking and zhats just wot zey do’!!  They played a lot of local tunes that people obviously knew and danced to.  It’s nice to see people letting their hair down en mass.  The concert continued into the early hours after the fireworks.

The World Cup final was on in some of the bars and cafes.

We really enjoyed Concarneau, it was an unexpected treat.

Info: There is a Carrefour City supermarket near the daily market house.  The large outdoor market is on Mondays.  A large supermarket is on the road out of town.  The facilities were modern and clean, but you have to pay for the showers at the office and put a code into a machine.  The marina cost 33 euros per night.

11th July – Friday – Lorient, Port Louis to Kerneval

Bought bread at the Boulangerie at Port Louis (just above the marina).

Just a short trip across the river to Kerneval from Port Louis.  Kerneval is the only place in Lorient where Diesel is available. 

We did not really give Kerneval a fair chance on our last visit so went for a walk along the seaside to see if we could find the town.  A pleasant seaside town emerged, more tailored to the older visitor, but with enough to make it worth a walk.  Two small supermarkets meant we did not have to go and trek to the large one, as last time.

We have seen many small art ‘Expositions’ on this trip.  They are held in old churches and village halls and are varied in their quality.  This one displayed several local artists work.  The two of note were firstly a very industrial artist, who depicted Fred Dinah type machinery, in great detail.  The second was a man who made small items from Cow bones.  It looked a bit like ivory, but was quite white and much heavier than anticipated.  I always wonder with these people how they make a living.

Kerneval marina cost 34 Euros per night this time.  (+16 euros on none season rate).

8th July – Tuesday - Port Haliguen to Port Louis, Lorient

09:00 to 15:30 – 6.5 hours to do 28 miles.  When leaving Port Haliguen to go North you have to take a wide birth around the rocks.  There is a very attractive lighthouse on the rocks. 

The tide was running against us in the morning and in the afternoon the wind blew up, on the nose again.  We saw French boats tacking through the wind over the rocky areas going into Port Louis but we played it safe.  The sails had to come down as the wind was a struggle to steer against.  There are some impressive large racing yachts in Lorient which were being put through their paces.  It is a very busy harbour with everything from ferries to canoes, full vigilance required.

We came to Lorient on our way down, but were turned away from Port Louis due to a festival.  This time the lovely young lady in the dorey boat directed us to a pontoon and even took our ropes.

They are building a new Marina office, therefore the facilities are currently in Porta-cabins, but are good, clean and free.  The marina is 28 euros per night.

The lady informed us there was a market in the streets of Port Louis tonight so we went straight out for a look.  They were setting up, so we went back to the boat for tea and ventured out again later.

Our chambers of commerce would do well to heed this lesson as the evening market was a roaring success.  All the businesses, cafes and restaurants all stayed open and the place was buzzing, just for the sake of a few road closures, no drama, just common sense.

This man was selling ‘Tarte Flambe’ which are like thin Pizzas, cooked over a large wood burner.  The safety elf would have an apoplexy.  People then ate their tartes on bench seats, at long tables, under a homemade tarpaulin, easy and fun for all the family.

Many different types of stalls lined several streets and a party atmosphere was helped along by street singers, bands and young people outside a bar drumming along to music, different but enjoyable.  I managed to squeeze in a chocolate crepe and we bought 4 flavoured sausages.

9th July – Wednesday

Jobs day.  Thoroughly cleaned the boat, she has done us proud so far and needed treating.  Mick changed all the oils and filters and serviced the engine.  We rewarded our efforts with a Full French Breakfast, everything was French except the Beans and Sausage.

We managed to wet the bed, as we (he) left a window open during servicing which was not shut during washing.  Slightly embarrassing looking sheets to hang out.

Full wash and brush up of ourselves and the boat prior to our night out.  I know… another.  That’s 2 in 2 weeks.  Joy.

The pizza restaurant Il Pirata had been recommended by Gordon and Louise.  We located it on the night of the market and were eager to try it.  The Pizza’s were excellent, with ample toppings and lovely thin crusts.  We put pictures on Facebook and got many comments.  Let’s face it, people like pizza.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had a walk around the Citadel, it was a lovely sunny night and a good end to a days hard work.

10th July – Thursday

Very sad news from home regarding the death of a work colleague and friend, once again re-enforces our trip.  We then took some time to gather our thoughts and headed to town as previously planned.

Lorient is a large town about the size of Manchester, but with sea.  The streets are on a grid pattern and are mostly modern, presumably due to the war. We paid only 2.70 euros for a ferry from Port Louis Marina to Port de Peche, and a bus (quarter past and quarter to the hour from the marina) into town.  Bargain.

Had a good look around, it’s strange now living on a boat with limited space that shopping has lost some of its appeal, and I don’t need anything and we have nowhere to put it anyway.  (Yes I did just say that).

Picture of Mick pointing out the boat location with a bagette.

7th July – Monday – Pornic to Port Haliguen

aka Port Hooligan.

07:45 start for the 10 hour, 50 mile trip.  The sea was very flat with a very strong under-current, which made the boat roll about a lot.  We had a good proper sail this afternoon. 

Port Haliguen had been recommended by Gordon and Louise and did not disappoint.  The marina is modern and clean with free showers.  Again a bread man visits at morning.  The charge is currently 36 euros per night, most expensive yet.  The large Casino supermarket is a 10 minute walk from the marina, on the road into town.

We had a good look around the seaside town which was a combination of old buildings and very modern ones.  There were quite a few antique shops and galleries mixed with the usual seaside shops.  Regular ferries go from here to Belle Isle.

I decided we should walk back along the seaside.  (Turned out to be payback for the Dunoon walk last year).  Many hotels, two camp sites, a family entertainment complex and a small aerodrome later and our very long day turned into an epic.  Salad and bed exhausted.