Mid May 2015 – Middelberg, Veere and Willemstad

14th May – Thursday – To Middelberg

The trip from Vlissingen to Middelberg is only 5 miles, however, there are 5 bridges to negotiate.  The journey took almost 3 hours (10.45 to 13.30).

The bridges tend of be lifting bridges or swing bridges.

The lifting bridge ‘Scroubrug’, where you can see a number of boats rafted up at waiting posts, which seem to be designed to take anything from a dingy to a tanker, used to wait prior to going under as the bridge rises.  The post will sometimes have cleats and other times you have to hook your rope around the large wooden post.

The swing bridge ‘Brug Souburg’.  Here you can see boats passing in both directions on either side of the swing bridge.

The bridges are controlled by a traffic light system.  Red for Stop, Green for Go and Red and Green for ‘on you marks, get set, go’.  They don’t take any prisoners and if you are not quick enough the bridge goes down.  Some of the bridges and locks have intercom systems, which when pressed get an ‘OK’ from the controller, but no indication as to when they may open.

We saw people the previous day trying to go under the bridge at Vlissingen at Rush Hour and they waited quite a while.  There are opening times in the Part 1 & 2 handbooks, but they are written in fudge and bear little resemblance to reality.

As there was quite a large group of boats passing I thought that once we went under the first bridge then the next one would open a short while afterwards. But no, sometimes you can hang around, going in circles, back and forth, hoping the bridge will open, at other times it is worth rafting up as it may be a half hour wait, but there is absolutely no indication which scenario applies.  So plan in enough time for this passage, there is no point trying to do it in a hurry.

When we arrived in Middelberg we were asked to moor in a particular numbered berth on the side of the canal under some trees.  Thankfully there was an english boat there to help as it was the first time we had moored against piles in boxes.  (Two wooden posts in the water with the boat in between, facing the shore).  We went into the berth bow first and you have to hook a line over/around the pile to help stop the boat, then hook another line on the opposite post.  You then have to somehow get off the front of your boat and tether the bow to the shore to prevent the boat from moving in its berth.  Philip on ‘Delphine’ took the bow rope and secured us to the shore.  I am not quite ready from jumping off the bow of the boat.  (We did this better in Willemstad).

Mick was then looking at the engine, carrying out maintenance and I went for a wander.  As luck would have it, it was Ascension Day, and therefore a bank holiday, so there was a substantial market in the main square.

Veggies and strawberries were really cheap so I stocked up a bit.  The strawberry man sold only strawberries which became cheaper each time I passed to the point of no-refusal.

Info: Middelberg 21 euros per night including electricity, showers and water.  Recently updated excellent shower facilities are located across an ornate bridge from the harbour master’s office.  The moorings are a short 5 minute walk from the town centre.  There is a baker’s shop down Dwakstaai, directly behind the harbour office.  The largest super market ‘Albert Heinz’ is at the end of this street, approx 15 minutes walk.  They only take Dutch debit cards so take cash.  The regular market is held on a Thursday in the main square.

Two more days and two more markets, again due to the bank holidays.  On Friday there was a smaller flea market, but on Saturday there was an enormous flea market covering the whole square.

Mick was happy to find ‘Jos Boone’ a famous floating chandlery next to the marina.  Where he bought the ‘Staande Mastroute’ or Standing Mastroute book, which charts the Mast-Up routes through Holland which allow sailing boats to pass.

Mick also bought a bucket in town for the anchor chain, which is stored in the Anchor locker.  He then had to drill holes in the bottom to stop it filling with water, which flows through the locker from the decks in high seas or rain.

On Saturday we took the trolley for a good stock up at Albert Heinz and Mick bought oil from the next oil change, which was a bargain, at the shop called ‘Action’ inside the Albert Heinz shop.  I have to mention the sterling service giving by a young male till assistant in Albert Heinz who helped Mick set up the Dutch pay as you go Sim card we purchased in store, as the verbal instructions from the phone company were all in Dutch.

Philip from ‘Delphine’ came for a drink at 6.00pm.   He helped us again to move the boat, as the previous moorings owners were returning.  He gave us some good information as he has been here for several years.

There are some beautiful buildings in Middelberg and it is well worth a visit.  The building above is a Cinema!

17th May – Sunday – To Veere

So many people have told us how pretty Veere is that we could not pass by.

‘Sluis Veere’ is the lock outside Veere.

A short 8 mile trip, 10.30 to 12.00.

We moored up this time waiting for the lock to open.  As the lock opens everyone surges forward.  It is the small lock to the left, and there is a much larger lock on the right for larger vessels.

In small locks there tend to be ropes running horizontally along the lock wall to hook your lines through.  The lines are then held whilst the water level drops or rises so that you can adjust your lines accordingly.  Fenders need to be high so that the boat is not damaged on the side of the lock.  The lines are then easy to release on a short slip.  (Slip the rope to the end so that it can be quickly released).

Veere inner harbour.

Veerse Meer seen from the ramparts.

Veere inner harbour bridge.

Walking around on the second day we found this tunnel, dating from the Napoleonic period.

Tunnel Entrance

Inside the tunnel.

The tunnel from the outside, which we would never have guessed was a tunnel.  This lead via the ramparts to a hand operated ferry across the moat.  Yacht-master Bond managed to navigate the vessel to the other side by pulling the rope. 

Info:  The marina is located on the canal side and is a short walk to town.  Make sure you have provisions before coming to Veere.  There are no food shops except a cheese shop and an excellent bakery in the town square (which was oval).  The harbour master advised us that ‘This is a tourist town and if you need to eat, go to a restaurant’.  The night rate ranged from 18 to 22 euros, a deposit of 20 euros was required for a keyfob which activated the water supply, electric supply and shower supply all of which cost 75cents a time.  We used 6 euros worth in 3 days.  The toilets are located in metal porta-cabins on the shore, which are clean but basic.

Our love of Kebbelin has grown, it consists of small pieces of deep fried fish with a herby mayo sauce.  We intend to take a picture, but it never lasts long enough.  Will try harder.

The next two days were very windy so we had to stay put.  Veere is very lovely but a long lunch stop would be sufficient to see the sights.  Therefore walking, sewing, and maintenance.

20th May – Wednesday – To Willemstad

Marathon day to complete the 40 miles to Willemstad.  We had thought to stop at St Annaland, but arrived early so chose to continue.  09.30 – 18.30 could not start earlier as needed to retrieve deposit for keyfob from the Harbour master.

3 big locks to negotiate.  We almost had a mishap in the small boat channel of Veerse Meer and the depth sounder had a good testing.  The first lock was the Zankreeksluis from Veerse Meer to the Zandkreek.

Mick adjusting the lines in the first lock.  See the road bridge in the background.  The green slimey sides appear as the water goes down.

At the risk of stating the obvious this place is REALLY flat, only feet above the water in some places.  As someone who has only been to Amsterdam previously it is amazing how the water levels are managed and engineered to maintain this. 

Mick in the second lock ‘Krammersluizen’ from Oosterschelde to the Volkerak.  The lock had digital displays indicating the height of the bridge and the depth of the water.  The height of Fleur’s mast from the water to the top is 16.4 metres including the aerials.  The max height is 18.5 metres.

The 2 metre height difference seems small when viewed from the deck.

The other new experience for the day was the huge variation in types of shipping to the ones we are used to in the UK and France.  The inland waterways are littered with large fast moving, very low lying super barges, carrying everything from new cars to scrap, iron-ically.

Large barge with additional barge tethered to the front.  The control cabins at the back look like air traffic control towers.  They frequently have accommodation beneath and small cars and boats carried on deck for the crew.

Empty Car Transporter

Full Car Transporter, appropriately named ‘Titan’.

Needless to say in our rule book we keep well out of their way.

The last lock of the day was the Volkeraksluizen, from Volkerak to Hollandsch Deip, taking us to Willemstad.  The channels between the locks are well buoyed with large and small boat channels.  The depth of the water ranges from 3 to 15 metres and some of the channels are narrow considering the traffic.

The 2nd the 3rd locks both had small craft locks to one side (left in this case) and the large boat locks easily accommodated 4 of the huge barges.  Massive feats of engineering, giving surprisingly quick passage to these extraordinary vessels.

Willemstad is another recommended stop, which shows great promise.

Early May 2015 - Dover to Holland – 4 Countries in a week.

8th May – Thursday - Dover to Dunkirk, France

We had waited 10 days to get a good weather window for the crossing to Dunkirk.  We chose Dunkirk in preference to Calais as the tides were more favourable.  However you do your calculations, you would always end up waiting on the moorings outside Calais for the lock gate.  We were also interested to find out the result of the election prior to departure, so the timing was good.

From 12:00 to 18:30 we covered 42 miles and the tide was with us for most of the way, so much so that we topped 8.2 knots over the ground at one point.  We had to wait for the lock gates to open at Dover, which were a good half hour after the time scheduled.  Then we had to wait for two large ferries to leave the East harbour before we could begin.  You are also advised to stay north out of the way of traffic on departure.

Ferry dodging passing through the East Harbour entrance.

White Cliffs of Dover

We managed to get some sailing in but reverted to motor-sailing whilst crossing the shipping channels.  (Which for non-sailors you have to cross at 90 degrees or risk incurring a heavy fine).  A ladies voice appeared on the radio several times while crossing, we think she may have been in a swimming pool and the announcements sounded like Gladys Pew from Hi-De-Hi.  ie. Knobbly knees competition in the Main Hall at 3pm, and every other variation we could think of, kept us amused. 

Info:

The visitors pontoon in Dunkirk is long and easy to use.  Beware day-fishing boats zooming in and making waves.  There is a security gate at the top of the walkway, so beware not to shut the gate behind you, without another crew member being on the inside.  The harbour master was not present and we registered the following day.  The facilities in the large red building are modern and free, with plug sockets.  The hot water took a while to come through, persevere.  17 euros per night, inc Electricity.  L’eclerc supermarket in town, just after the main square in a shopping centre.  Very little is open in Dunkirk on a Sunday, including the harbour office (at this time of year).

Entrance into Dunkirk Harbour

Turn left into the ‘Grand Large’ entrance.

9th May – Saturday

A very, very windy day.  We were blown into town and had a good walk around.  Found the L’eclerc supermarket.  There are museums and galleries but there were few people around as it was so windy.

On our return a man asked Mick if he could take a photo of the boat.  He then proceeded to bring along 3 teenagers, one of whom climbed onto the front of the boat and performed a mime act to the Titanic theme whilst the man videoed her and played the sound-track.  It was for a school project apparently and much giggling ensued from the girls.

10th May – Sunday – Dunkirk to Oostende, Belgium.

A relatively short trip to Oostende, 13:15 to 18:30, 26 miles to catch the tide.  A beautiful sunny day with very little wind so motor-sailing all the way.  The sea was flat calm but beware the very strong under-currents, which really want to steer the boat for you. 

Entrance to Oostende, hard to miss.

We were met by a very friendly dory and he even took our ropes as we temporarily rafted to a boat which was leaving the pontoon. 

Info. 29 Euros per night, we suspect was due to us being on one of only two pontoons.  Good clean free facilities with plug sockets.  There are several supermarkets to chose from.  ALDI is hidden down an alley off ‘Alfonos Pieter’ street (directly in front of the station), also a Carrefour, further down.

Oostende Royal North Sea Yacht Club Marina.

11th May – Monday

Mick changed the oil and serviced the engine.

We had a good walk around and found this old Lido building on the sea front which is undergoing regeneration.  The pre-war photographs show what a beautiful town Oostende was, the buildings were stunningly ornate.  A small number remain, but sadly they are few.

Lido Inside

Lido Outside

12th May – Tuesday

We took the small free ferry to the other side of the harbour to find the Chandlers.  It sets off from the Aquarium every 20 minutes.

At the chandlers we bought the ‘Wateralmanak’ the two part compulsory manual which must be carried on board when on the Dutch canals.  It contains all the regulations, but it is only available in Dutch.   The symbol system describing the facilities at each marina is however, very useful.

We then walked all the way around the harbour back to the town.  Also went supermarket shopping at ‘Die Haize’ which we think is the Belgian equivalent of Waitrose, wide aisles and high prices.

13th May - Wednesday – Oostende to Vlissingen (pronounced Vis-ling-er), Holland

Early start to catch the tide 07:30 to 13:30, 31 miles.  Very sunny and absolutely no wind.  Again there was a strong under-current as we passed Zeebrugge and its shipping channel, which was very busy.

We entered the Westerschelde Estuary to proceed to Vlissingen.  It is a wide channel and we encountered quite a few pleasure craft, which was nice.  Also numerous containers, ferries etc.

The approach to the harbour entrance at Vlissingen crosses another shipping channel and rounds a corner to the outer lock.  Beware ferries and large vessels exiting the harbour entrance.

Large vessel leaving the harbour.

Outer Lock gates at Vlissingen.

We did not have to wait long to get the green light to enter the lock.  There is no pontoon and you simply hook a rope around one of the chains which hang vertically down the lock sides.  Then you ease the rope up or down the chain as the water level changes.

Once through the lock we proceeded to the marina which is on the right before the Red Bridge.

Marina Entrance, (behind Mick) at Buitenhaven, is not the easiest to see and is quite small once you are in there.  We had to turn around and go onto the visitors pontoon, which is not marked, but we guessed.

Info.  The harbour master was very pleasant.  19.20 Euros per night, 1 euro for electricity and 50cents for a shower.  The showers were not working very well.  There is a small cafe and bar.

Vlissingen itself is a very pleasant harbour town 20 minutes walk.  Lots of shops on the main street and some interesting buildings on the seaside.

Main Square.

Next stop Middelburg, under the 5 bridges!!

April to May 2015 – Eastbourne and Dover

Our first day in Eastbourne was orientation day around the marina.  It is a large complex with many flats surrounding the marina, and restaurants to cater for most tastes.  A bridge separates the inner and outer harbours which takes you to the retail area and a cut through to a retail park with an Asda. 

Eastbourne outside the lock, low tide.

Eastbourne outside the lock, high tide.  There was a dredger present when we left and you can see from the first picture why they need it.

Eastbourne lock, there are two, which are well managed and well maintained with floating pontoons, which make the nerve wracking lock entry much easier.

Info: Excellent showers, very clean with hotel driers and a plug socket.  Approx £24 per night.  Asda close by, Lidl a much longer walk.

24th April – Friday

Walked into Eastbourne from the marina.  It takes a good half hour along the sea front.  The pier is currently being renovated, but it is still possible to walk around.  The Bandstand on the prom is the best we have ever seen and it regularly hosts events during the summer.

 

From the pier you walk down a main street which is edge to edge restaurants and takeaways, then you round the corner and find a modern, comprehensive shopping centre, with every shop you can think of.  It is well hidden and does not detract from the seafront.  We thought Eastbourne was a genteel version of Brighton, which we enjoyed very much.  We had both only ever driven through and it was worth a visit.

Followed by a couple of lazy days reading and planning.

27th April – Monday – To Dover

Early start to sail the 47 miles to Dover 07:00 to 17:00, we had 16 knots of wind with lots of sunshine, but it was very cold.  Some good sailing and motor sailing.

Sailing past Dungeness Power Station.  We have worked there in the past and it was great to pass it on the sea.  It is one of those landmarks that you see two hours before you get there and can still see two ours after you pass, so that filled 4 out of our 10 hour journey.

Then you get your first glimpse of the white cliffs of Dover.

Dover and Dover Castle

Dover West Harbour Entrance

Info: As we stayed for 11 nights in the Granville Harbour the fees were only £21 per night.  There are 3 sets of toilets and showers, which are acceptable.  The ones at the corner of the Wellington Harbour are the best and have hotel hairdryers and a plug socket.  They also have movement detectors to turn on the showers, beware of sharp movements.  There is a Co-op near the town square, a Morrison’s and small Asda in a retail park behind the main street and an Aldi which is approx 40 minutes walk.

There is a nice promenade which leads to the town centre.  We saw Vic Reeves sat in a shelter in full leathers.

We then had several days of sun and high winds, then rain and high winds, so we read, planned and I finished 3 bears.  We also have a walk every day, think we have done Dover now.

See www.handmadebyannmarie@blogspot.co.uk for detailsf

5th May – Tuesday – Bus Trip

We needed to expand our horizons so hopped on a Bus to Canterbury.  £6.50 for an Explorer ticket, but £10.50 for two people travelling together.  Canterbury is a beautiful old city.

Sadly we did not go into the Cathedral as it is £10.50 to get it.  I really don’t think you should have to pay to go into a church.

Next stop Margate.

Margate seafront and the clock tower.  There were many tankers anchored off shore as the winds were very high and the sea state was rough. 

The town centre was a bit run down, but we found out why on our way to Ramsgate as we passed a large out of town shopping centre.

Next stop Ramsgate.

Ramsgate Seafront.  There is a large marina and along the side of the harbour in the arches of the harbour buttress wall there are cafes, chandlers and several antique/junk shops which are worth a look.  We had a lovely pot of tea and cakes at the Cosby Tearoom, excellent value at just £8.30.

Next stop Sandwich.

The archway leads from the bridge into the lovely old town.

We literally stumbled across the BnB ‘The Salutation’ owned by the Posh People from Gogglebox.  It is £7 to go in the gardens and they have a gift shop.  Think they are doing OK.

We had circumnavigated Planet Thanet (pronounce Plan-It Fan-It by the locals).

I think we managed to get our monies worth out of the ticket.

7th May – Dover Castle

Several people had recommended that we visit Dover Castle but the £19.50 entrance fee was putting us off.  However Inspector Bond found a 2 for 1 deal if you had a valid bus ticket bringing you to Dover.  Go to the Stagecoach website and obtain a number which you show at the door with your bus ticket.  Excellent.

The Great Tower is great fun to explore and unlike others, it has lots of floors and each floor has many rooms and nooks and crannies to explore.  The children who were visiting seemed to love it.

You get great views from the top.  It is not a visit for people with mobility issues, everything is up or down a hill or flight of steps.

There are the Operation Dynamo tunnels to explore, where they planned the Dunkirk Evacuation and D-Day, also the Hospital Tunnel Annex, all of which are carved out of the White Cliffs.

There are also Medieval tunnels, a Saxon church and a Roman lighthouse, phew.  Exhausting but excellent day out.

April 2015 – Adventure continues - Southampton to Eastbourne via Gosport and Brighton

Early April was spent catching up with friends prior to our departure.

10th April  - Friday

We travelled to Manchester on the train to catch the Megabus to Southampton, with ‘Agnes’ (pre-named) our new trolley, kindly donated by Mick’s sister Jacquie.

While in Manchester we happened upon the John Rylands Library, which we can’t believe we have never been into before.  It is on Deansgate and we must have passed it hundreds of times.

It is free to enter and has a lovely new cafe.  The exhibitions have some really interesting and historic documents.  Definitely worth a look.

The Megabus set off from the bus station in the Northern Quarter at 5.40pm and we arrived in Southampton at midnight via Birmingham Centre and Birmingham Airport, Coventry, Oxford, Southampton Airport and then Southampton centre.  The loo was much better than expected.  It is great people watching.  One guy was killing aliens all the way whilst another got out his IPhone, MacBook and Choral sheet music and conducted his way to Southampton.

Couple of days general preparations and stocking up.

13th April – Monday

Left Shamrock Quay, Southampton for Haslar Marina, Gosport.  09.00 to 13.00, 10 knots of wind and patchy fog.  Shakedown trip, all working well.  Chippy Tea as reward.  Great Chippy called Fry-Days near the passenger ferry terminal.  Haslar Marina is quite tidal and it is worth asking for an inner berth if you are staying a few days.

The next day was so foggy we could not see the ‘Spinnaker Tower’ in Portsmouth across the river.  So decided to stay put.  It was worse than the picture below.  The fog horn which woke us was the biggest clue to stay put.

15th April – Wednesday - To Brighton

Leaving Gosport

08.15 to 17.45, 9 hours for a 44 mile journey.  The day was misty, with hazy sunshine later.  There was little or no wind so we motored all the way, only having the main sail up to increase our visibility to other boats.  The mist cleared approximately 10 miles from Brighton so that we could see the coast for the first time that day.

16th April – Thursday

Mick changed the front seal in the water pump as it was dripping slightly.

Had a walk around and went to the large Asda on the marina. 

17th April – Friday

Graham and Pauline visited as they had never been to Brighton.  After lunch on the boat we had a bus trip into town and walked the Pier, Laines, and North Laines, before returning by bus.  Lovely meal at the Floating Pagoda Chinese Restaurant in the marina.

18th April – Saturday

Mick spent the day removing the Eberspacer (Diesel Heater) which had stopped working a few days previously.  A new ECU (Electronic Control Unit) had to be ordered and the whole system had to be tested.

Graham, Pauline and Myself went into town and they went to the Pavilion.  While I had a good look around the North Laines and found a few new places including a Saturday street market on Upper Garden St, more of which later.  There was a craft exhibition in a hall near the pavilion and we met in there afterwards, then had a look around the museum.  Back on the bus and lunch before they went home.  They also have many travels planned so we will look forward to our next meet up to exchange stories. 

19th April – Sunday – Laura’s Birthday

We walked to town quite early, it’s a good couple of miles along the seafront.  We were lucky enough to happen upon the 110th Anniversary Rally to Brighton of the Austin Motor company owners club.

They look so small in comparison to todays cars.

This Rag-time Jazz band were playing as the cars arrived.

As you can see above, on our way back a few hundred more had arrived, including these vans.

We went for a sit on the Pier and Mick had a good chat to Laura from his deckchair.

We walked to the North Laines via the Town Museum which is located behind the Pavilion.  It is free to enter and has a good selection of exhibits from all over the world.

I took Mick to some of the new places I found yesterday.  The huge junk/antiques centre on Upper Garden St.  Crammed to the rafters with interesting stuff.  Then to the market underneath Brighton railway station (turn left at the end of the North Laines and walk up the hill OR turn left and left again out of the station).  I don’t think it has been open too long.

As you can see it does not immediately jump out at you as an indoor market with lots of wacky stalls.  Be brave go up the wood block steps and turn right.  They really need better signage.

We shared a falafel wrap made by the man in the right hand kiosk, which was fresh and delicious, he tempted us with a sample and we could not refuse.

Back in time to watch the Grand Prix and read the papers.

20th April – Monday

Waiting for the Eberspacer part.  Had a walk past the marina and UP the large zig zag walkway to get to Lidl (which we spied from the bus) with the trolley.

Returned and did a stock take.

Yes, I think we have enough beans and emergency tins for the trip.

21st April – Tuesday

Mick re-installed the Eberspacer with its new ECU, and we are toasty warm again.  Fan heaters are OK, but their heat is digital.

The new ECU is a Mark II variant as Eberspacer re-designed it a few years ago after many failures.  It has lasted 10 years, 1,350 hours of use, so if the new one lasts as long, or longer, we will be happy.

22nd April – Wednesday – Brighton to Eastbourne

Would have been my dad’s 90th birthday.

We set off at 10.30 and arrived at 14.30, so only 4 hours to do the 22 mile trip.  But what a four hours. 

The forecast was for 16 to 24 knots of wind, which turned into 20 to 32 knots of wind (force 6 gusting 7).  The tide was with us but the wind was against us and the sea state around Beachy Head became quite rough with over-falls, ever though we were 3 miles out to sea, attempting to avoid the worst of the over-falls.

I steered for most of the 4 hours with only one enforced loo break which made me feel atrocious.  I got back to the helm as soon as possible and did not move until we got to Eastbourne.  We ate none of our sandwiches and only had an apple en-route.

Mick did a sterling job navigating as he had to keep going below, I could not have handled that.

I had several dowsing’s from huge waves hitting the front of the boat and crashing though others, and even wearing all my wet weather gear I was soaked.  One wave went right down the back of my coat.  The ironic thing was it was a beautiful sunny day, so we were soggy, wind-blown, shaken up and sun-burnt!!

We got talking to a couple called Mike and Karon who invited us for a drink, on their Warrior 40 ‘Pelican’.  They had just arrived from Calais.  They have vast experience of sailing in the Baltic and were happy to share their experiences.  We had a good few hours chatting and swapping stories.  We hope to read their blog in the future, which they are planning to write.

Chilli and sleep.

We have Eastbourne to explore now.