End August 2015 – Amsterdam – IJmuiden - Overnight to Harwich

According to the local papers there were 2.3 million visitors to SAIL Amsterdam.  With that, the clean up operation was a miracle.  Even the Ferris wheel had been dis-assembled by lunchtime on Monday.  You would struggle to know anything had happened.  Maybe it was all a dream!!

Sailors Info: Sixhaven Marina, Opposite Central Station, Amsterdam.  Free ferries operate constantly from Central Station to several places along the north side of the North Sea Canal, which makes Sixhaven a perfect spot for a stay in Amsterdam.  The famous harbour masters run around the jetties making sure new visitors are correctly moored.  In recent years all the pontoons have been replaced and the toilet facilities are new and very well taken care of.  You pay at a machine below the club house and the machine seems to take all major credit cards, with info in English, on self service screens which also provide SEP smart cards for the showers, water and electric.  There is a Dirk supermarket 10 minutes walk from the marina and the Foodmarkt Amsterdam store I mentioned previously.  There are also several large supermarkets in town.  We would highly recommend a stay at Sixhaven, and don’t worry they always seem to have space.

25th August – Tuesday

Our last proper day to have a final look around.  We found China Town and delicious Pork Buns, which were like soft rolls with spicy pork in the middle.  Really yummy and only 1 Euro.  The ploy worked for the ‘Hoi Tin’ Restaurant as we returned for a very enjoyable last dinner in Holland in the evening.

We bought a 2.50 Euro map from the Tourist office on our first day back and it has been the best money spent all trip, as we have wandered and wandered around all the less obvious places and found some real gems.  Small streets with small privately owned shops and cafes, a bit off the well-beaten track.

26th August – Wednesday

It was our turn to be boat movers today.  We have seen and helped so many boats to move around in the last 2 weeks we have become quite proficient at man-handling boats from the shore.  Today we moved across to an easy exit pontoon, which was less likely to be blocked in.  We also helped Brian and Wendy and Jack to rotate theirs boats for easier exits too.

We went for a big shop for food supplies to get us over the North Sea and managed to squeeze in a last Turkish Pizza en route.

We had farewell drinks with Brian and Wendy on their boat ‘Maximaal’.  It has been lovely sharing this experience with them and they have been great fun.  We also wished Jack on ‘Vegabond’ good luck with his future escapades.   

27th August – Thursday – To IJmuiden

08.30 start for the 15 mile trip to IJmuiden which is a main port of call for vessels crossing the North Sea.  It’s a bit like a Service Station on the sea.  Enough facilities but not enough to get too comfy.

On the North Sea canal heading towards the coast we encountered a number of interesting vessels.  At first we thought this crane was stationary on the shore, then it started to move.  Its amazing that it stays upright.  It is an ominous sight as it moves towards you.

We had a private viewing of the Tall Ship ‘Stad Amsterdam’ on her way back to town.

The lock at IJmuiden is a complex of locks catering for all sizes of vessels.  This is the entrance to the ‘Sport’ lock for smaller craft.

The platform above was anchored after the lock awaiting deployment into the North Sea.

We stayed at IJmuiden port for Thursday night in preparation for our crossing.

28th August – Friday – IJmuiden to Harwich

Mick had spent most of the previous few weeks planning, checking, re-checking, assessing and re-assessing all aspects of our crossing to Harwich.  It is not to be taken lightly and full consideration is applied to all aspects of the journey.  The thing we can do nothing about is the weather.  So you just have to put your trust in the forecasters and choose a weather window with a little leeway at each end which also allows for the tide times on the chosen dates. 

Mick used the ‘Northsea Passage Pilot’ by Brian Navin to aid the planning process.  He took his recommendations on passage 18 which advised a departure time, of high water Dover minus 3 hours, which gave us 3 hours of a following incoming tide for the last part of the trip into Harwich.

We set off a 06.00 as first light broke.  The forecast for the first day was for force 4 and 5 south-westerly winds.  The winds turned out to be higher than expected and as usual were on the nose of the boat. 

Rigs in the North Sea.

Wind-farms in the North Sea.

Mick helming at an angle mid-afternoon.

Night-fall.

The first 24 hours of the trip were more lively than was forecast, which makes the journey more un-comfortable.  The issue being the relentless motion.  Hour after hour of constant movement.  The positives were that there was an almost full moon, so it was never totally dark.  The other was that we had no rain and the wind was not too cold.

I had a nap in the afternoon and was therefore able to stay awake while Mick slept from 11.30pm to 02.30am.  I then slept from 03.00am to 06.00am while Mick stood watch for daybreak.

A welcome brew as the sea became calmer for our last 6 hours.  We surfed past Sizewell Power Station with the morning tide.

We had both taken sea sickness tablets which did their job, but we both felt the influence of the constant motion over the 30 hour trip.  We did not manage to plough through all the 15 teacakes I had prepared, but non were wasted as when we arrived hunger hit. 

When we stop to think about it, it is very usual for a human being to carry out any tasks for such prolonged periods.  There is usually an opportunity to stop and rest, but with sailing it is a no-option option, you just have to carry on.  My respect for sailors who do this alone grows each time I experience it.  We also think that our sedate summer of canals and lakes, did little to prepare us for this extended period of sailing. 

However, at no time during the trip did we feel in danger as our preparations and planning had been thorough and the weather conditions were well within the limits of the boat and ourselves.

In sailing terms this is not a long journey, but it is not my natural habitat, and I suffer it only because it is a means to an end.  A necessary evil to enable a fabulous summer.  I await the day when one of these trips is an actual pleasure.

Shotley Marina at Harwich was a welcome sight at 11.30am on Saturday the 29th.  A nice small lock leading to a big sleep.

We woke to the gentle tinkle of container ships being loaded across the river at the Port of Felixstowe.

Mid August 2015 – SAIL Amsterdam

Since 1978 there have been 5 SAIL events in Amsterdam, the last few being every 5 years.  So we thought it would be worth staying around for this special event.

We snook into Sixhaven marina on Wednesday the 12th of August, a full week before the event started.  This marina is unusual even in Holland in that the rules of engagement are ‘If you can see water we have space’ according to the Harbourmaster.  Every day boats departed and every day boats arrive and gradually more stayed than left.  Although even at the height of the event people were coming and going, so don’t give up if you really want to visit.

On Friday we visited the PEK market on the North side of the river (Wed, Fri and Sat) and then on Saturday we went to the Noordermarkt which is near the city centre towards the northwest of the city.  It is on the canal side and features lots of fresh produce and artisan stalls.

The third day of market fest took us to the impromptu food and flea market in the Westerpark which is west of Central Station.  Lots of local stall holders in the location of the Cultuurpark.  Outside above.

And Inside.  The market is currently held on the 3rd Sunday of each month.  It had a great mix of bric-a-brac stalls and food stalls from all over the world.  We plumped for Jamaican Ackee and Saltfish with dumplings and Jerk Chicken.  The ladies sauce could give Levi Roots a run for his money.  The ladies were from Sheffield!  Of all the stalls…

Then we wandered round for a few days prior to the main event.

19th August – Wed – SAIL Welcome Parade

We managed to get a seat on a wall on the ‘Grassy Knoll’ near the ‘EYE’ film museum on the north bank.  One hour and a half early and people were starting to gather.

By the time the first ship arrived the ‘Stad Amsterdam’ the crowds had gathered.  Unusually for these events and a key feature to this event is that the Tall Ships are accompanied by an Armada of small craft and some not so small craft.  In fact anything that floats.

The younger members of crew were stationed in the rigging here.

Me in my Hartlepool Tall Ships T-shirt purchased in 2010 which we now know must have been the previous place on their route that year for the last SAIL event.

The small craft leaving the main parade through the lock on the Sixhaven canal.  The trend for these small open boats could not have been timed better for this event.

The 60 Tall Ships moored all around the event site and the crowds filtered passed all day.

The small ships also continued their promenade around the tall ships for the whole 5 days.  Morning, noon and especially night for the nightly fireworks displays.

This guy was playing a trumpet with one hand and playing a barrel organ with the other hand.  He then extended his fishing rod with a clog for donations.

The clog boat was a good example of some of the extra-ordinary craft we saw.

Mick at the far end of the event.  You can see it was quite a trek.

22nd August – Sat – Day 4

The unsung hero’s of the week were the ferry operators who continued to operate amongst the mayhem. Their advantage was a very loud horn which left no one in any doubt they were making way.  Bigger ferries were deployed which would take 1100 passengers per trip.   One had a musical duo of two clarinettist's to entertain the weary, but jubilant crowds.

We went on the ferries to NDSM-werf near Amsterdam Marina.  The highlight were the Ocean 60 World Yacht Race boats.   Also lots of stalls and amusements.

23rd August – Sunday – Farewell Parade

The Farewell parade was the best attended yet.  People were clinging to every vantage point.

This house boat was filled with revellers.

The marina had been very busy and our view of the canal had been limited but on the last day many boats left and I took this picture from the back of the boat.

The big difference with this event to the usual sailing events was it did not feel like people were there just to sell you something, it was all about the joy.  Joy of people taking trips on the Tall Ships, joy of the crowds, joy of the constant water parade. 

There were enough food stalls, but not too many, people cleaned the streets constantly, bins were emptied and the toilets were clean!

It was a thoroughly well organised event, full of good humour, electrifying buzz and joyfulness.

A real life experience.  Thanks Amsterdam!

August 2015–Muiden and Amsterdam Take 2

1st August – Saturday – To Muiden

There was absolutely no wind today, so we motored the 19.5 miles which took 4.5 hours.  We had phoned ahead and had no trouble finding our berth in the KNZRV marina on the entrance channel to Muiden, which is just after the wrecked ship and virtually opposite the castle.

The ship is owned by a local and much controversy lies in whom should be responsible for its removal.  I think it adds something to the castle surrounds.

Castle Muidenslot is the 13th century defensive structure on the river bank half a mile from the centre of town.

Muiden is only 14km from Amsterdam and a really lovely location, just off the lake.  Less than 5 minutes walks takes you into the centre of Muiden, which is a very small picturesque town.  The lock above is the main centre of entertainment as boats flow through here constantly to and from Weesp and the surrounding lakes.

Sailors Info: KNZRV – The Royal Netherlands Sailing and Rowing Club is the first marina you see on the river into Muiden on the West bank, so we did not really choose it, it chose us.  Euros 47 for 2 nights everything included.  There is a terrace bar restaurant, bar downstairs and chandlers just outside the car park.  The facilities are very good.  Fuel pontoon on the East bank. 5 minute walk to town.  Small supermarket in the town centre, an up-market bakery and excellent Ice Cream shop (both facing the lock).  Large shopping complex 50 minutes walk (more of which later A.H., Lidl etc).

The Sailing Club

The Sailing club in relation to the castle, just across the river.

Sunset in Muiden

The Royal Yacht ‘De Groene Draeck’ was presented to the Queen by the people of Holland on her 18th Birthday, apparently she still sails it at the age of 79.  Most boats passing by on the river point out the boat to their friends, very entertaining.

We moored next to the yacht ‘Balans’ and chatted to Hans and Margraat who gave us some excellent information about the town and its surroundings.

3rd August – Monday

On Hans and Margraats advice we walked to Weesp today.  It is currently over an hours walk to Weesp as there are major road-works taking place.  However the efficient Dutch have provided a cycle/walking path around the works so only a slight detour, then on down the river bank.  It was a blistering hot day and we did not set off until 3.00pm but arrived in time for Ice-creams before the shops closed.

Weesp centre.  We walked back on the main road and it was 15 minutes quicker.

4th August – Tuesday

We had been told there was a supermarket nearby which turned out to be a 50 minute walk up the side of a major road, thank goodness for cycle paths.  It is probably only 20 minutes on a bike. 

One man and his trolley.  It turned out to be a large and comprehensive retail park.  We had a good stock up at Lidl, there is also an Albert Heijn and most of the major Dutch chain stores.  I think the small supermarket in town has removed all signs to this place for his profit margin.  Really glad we were told about it.

5th August – Wednesday – Back To Amsterdam

We had been told about a small marina just outside Amsterdam so off we went.  A very slow sail just over 7 miles, taking in a big bridge and a big lock, out of the Markermere and into the North Sea Canal.

Through the large lock, which was very busy, a totally different place to the one we passed on the way out.  Boats were rafted 3 and 4 abreast encouraged into place by 2 summer lock keepers.

On the narrow channel off the main canal we passed several ‘Grand Design’ houseboats, a bit like House Boat Beverley Hills, each one out-doing the next.

The end of the channel opens up a little and you are presented by 2 marinas.

‘Twellegea’, above, which we chose.

And ‘Het Jacht’ which we should have chosen.

Sailors Info:  Twellegea Jachthaven has a larger club house/office.  Sadly it has a very small and very old toilet and shower, singular.  At 28.50 euros per night it was expensive for the facilities provided.  There is however a bar on site and a well used boat yard.  There is a small ring of shops 5 minutes walk away. (Turn left, right, right and keep going on the main road a short distance).  30 minutes walk to the Dirk supermarket near ‘Aeolus’ marina.

‘Het Jacht’ above had a new set of toilets and showers in a porta-cabin, which were much better and they charge 15 euros per night.  No prizes for guessing which one we will visit next time.

However, ‘Twellegea’ is located on Nieuwendammerdijk.  By good fortune we stumbled on a beautifully preserved street of houses, pub, shops and a church

It was a separate municipality until it merged with Amsterdam in 1921.  A late medieval settlement, found after the dike burst in 1514 and a new dike and sluis were built.  The houses were originally ships captains houses.  Many people cycle here from Amsterdam to view the houses.

7th August – Friday – Moved Marinas

During a walk from Twellegea we took a look at ‘Aeolus’ marina and decided to move after our 2 days were up.  Only 1.6 miles.

The pilot guide says to look for the ‘Stork’ sign and turn in.  Stork is now a restaurant on the canal side and the sign is not very big.

The entrance is only 8 metres wide so take it easy.  The harbourmaster rides his/her bike (the members take turns to be in charge) to the reporting pontoon and then advises where to go.

Again by chance we pulled up next to ‘White Haze’ and met Ada and Akko.  It is a beautiful British Designed and Dutch built steel hulled yacht.  During preliminary chats he asked where we had come from and we found out he was from Harlingen, so we chatted about that.  Admiring his obviously ocean going boat we asked what his longest trip had been, 24 days he said, ooh where was that we asked, I’m not sure if it was the Pacific or the Atlantic was his reply.  We then said WOW alot as he told of of their 6 year circumnavigation, which we found out later had ended with a parade through Amsterdam.  After being put securely back in our box we gazed with nothing but awe and admiration for this unassuming couple.  What a privilege.

White Haze with Akko at the helm.  We pretended to help them leave the next day, but they didn’t need any help!  They have a book but sadly it is only available in Dutch.

Sailors Info:  Aeolus Marina, Amsterdam.  A members club which accepts visitors.  Friendly and well run.  13 euros per night including electricity and water.  Showers 50cents.  Tip-use the shower in the club building as the porta-cabin ones are hot in warm weather.  The most convenient supermarket yet, a ‘Dirk’ at the marina entrance.  A convenient 10 minute walk to the Central Station Ferry across the North Sea Canal.

We recommend a look in the ‘Foodmarkt Amsterdam’ on the road to the east of the marina, you can’t miss it.  A fashionable food destination which is actually a Jumbo supermarket in trendy surroundings.  Complete which Pizzeria and Asian fusion takeaway.  The food can be eaten in the cafe or taken back to the boat.  The pizzas were excellent and only 5euros each.

8th August – Saturday

We walked to Vondelpark.  Approx 1 hour walk inc. ferry ride.  The park is far larger than it first appears and took 40 minutes to walk to the furthest point.  Many euros have been spent to upgrade the park and its facilities.  Cafes, Band Stands and event spaces make it a beautiful oasis in the city centre.

Even though it is well used it did not feel overcrowded and gave welcome shade on a hot day.

10th August – Monday

Our 3rd Wedding Anniversary.  We went to the Rijksmuseum which is worth the 17.50 euros entrance fee.  Millions have been spent to update the museum and it is hugely improved from my last visit 20 years ago.  Be sure to download the museum App which provides lots of different on-line tours to cater for every taste.

We ended the day in a Tibetan/Indonesian restaurant at 65 Utrechtsestraat ‘Tashi Deleg’ where we had a Tibetan inspired Riceplate.

Its a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds, and the waiter could not have been more helpful.

Finally a picture of my latest device.  To stop Mick banging his head on the Perspex sliding door.  He sets off up the stairs out of the boat with such purpose and is stopped abruptly in his tracks when his head makes contact with the door.

A red ribbon tied to the door handle.  It is working so far. 

12th August – To Sixhaven Marina – our shortest journey yet.

Legendary marina amongst Yachty types.  We are staying for the ‘SAIL Amsterdam’ event.  m.sail.nl/en for the English version.

It is busy already and the event does not start until the 19th!!