Late June 2017 – North Germany, Stralsund, Warnemunde and Rostock

18th June – Sunday - Malmo, Sweden to Klintholm, Denmark.

A 49 mile hop took us back to Klintholm for one night on our way to North Germany.  It was a 10 hour hop starting at 0800, but we had 12-18 knots of winds and sailed most of the way.  It was a really sunny day, but the sea got very wallowy on the way into Klintholm for the last few miles.  See Early June for Klintholm info.

19th June – Monday – Klintholm, Denmark to Stralsund, Germany.

We set off at 0900 to make the 48 mile journey to Stralsund arriving at 1715.  A really lovely sunny day, but gusty at times.  By 1400 we rounded into Strelasund which is a lagoon in the best traditions of the word.  We were lucky to enter in bright sunshine and as such the water was vivid and readily displayed the shallows.  There is a very well buoyed channel which winds around the edge of the lagoon.  The masses of birdlife, relax and paddle on the lagoon as we diligently follow the channel. 

The shallow water is much lighter in colour and dotted with wildlife.

 

The treat does not end there, as the city of Straslund emerges.  It takes 2 and a half to 3 hours to finally reach the harbour, and the city draws ever closer revealing itself, like a little Venice.  Stralsund is attached to the island of Rugen by a large bridge.

The evening was balmy and we sat out until late in the evening.

20th and 21st June – Tuesday and Wednesday

We walked the town.  It is one of the original Hanseatic trading towns which line the shores of the southern Baltic.

Main Square with St Nikolaikirsche.

Main Square

The City Hall

The town has obviously undergone a great deal of refurbishment in the last 20 years since the wall came down.  The traditional red brick buildings are all gradually being restored.

Michael at the floating Backfisch Stall in the harbour, awaiting his Backfisch and Chips (breaded fried white fish).

Stralsund is a town of contrasts.  From the old cloisters and squares.

To the ultra modern ‘Ozeaneum’.  We were really taken with Stralsund and could have stayed longer.

Sailors Info:

In the City marina it was not easy to find a space.  The red and green symbols are there but you have to be almost in the mooring to see them.  There are however pontoons, real pontoons. 19 euros per night.  10 euros for the card and 10 euro loaded onto it (refundable).  The showers which are on the pontoon and at the office, were OK, but i had a cold one and paid 1 euro for the privilege.  There is an Edeka supermarket on the main shopping street and an ALDI a 20 minute walk along the man made beach front and park (then inland a little).  Good wifi. 

** This year we have been using the free ‘Here’ app to navigate around onshore.  It you type in ‘supermarket’ or better still the name of a supermarket it will appear with directions and approx time to walk.  ATMs, petrol stations etc are also available.  Very handy.

22nd June – Thursday – To Warnemunde, Germany.

A very early 0430 get up to set off at 0500 to make the 56 mile trip.  We had to renegotiate the lagoon, which looked so different without the sunshine.  It would be very easy to stray out of the channel and into the shallows when the water is all the same colour.

Sunrise.

From 1200 to 1400 a real squall blew up and from a calm 10 knots the wind increased to 32 knots very quickly.  The sea became very disturbed and threw us around for 2 hours.  We were really worried as it was not forecast and we were dreading our arrival into Warnemunde.  As the wind was directly in front of us the boat speed went from 5.8 to 3.5 knots, with waves crashing over the bow. However, the squall left as quickly as it came and we arrived at 1630 in bright sunshine and little wind.  The Warnemunde harbourmaster said it had passed them by earlier and he was equally surprised.

The entrance into Warnemunde.  It would be useful if the piles which prevent you hitting the rocks had their Red and Green tips re-painted.

23rd June – Friday

After the very long day on Thursday we just had a walk around the marina hotel and surrounding area.  It was very windy and rainy.

The 5 star Hohe Dune Hotel and Yachthaven, front.

Back, facing the marina.

24th June – Saturday

Despite the drizzle we needed a walk and ventured across the river on the ferry. 1.40 Euro per person each way.

The ferry docks at the cruise ship terminal.  Warnemunde is the base for AIDA Cruises.

Pretty harbour front.  When the market was on there were 20 fish stalls all selling the same thing.

The other side of the harbour lined with shops and restaurants.

The town light house and ‘Teepot’ restaurant.

There is a lovely promenade and a good range of shops and restaurants, which are very popular at weekends when the markets are on by the harbour and in the town square.  It is a really pleasant place to spend a few hours.

25th June – Sunday – Grand Prix and Glastonbury.

26th June – Monday – To Rostock on the Train.

Suffice it to say the trains are new and modern and all go to Rostock.  Only 2.10 Euros per person, each way (tickets also available to Warnemunde Tourist Info).  We met a lovely lady on the train who was a great help advising us to make sure we stamped our tickets prior to boarding to Rostock Haupt-Bahnhof station, and advising on the trams into town from the station, which were also included in the ticket price.  She came with us and even told us when to get off at the town square outside the ‘Rathaus’ (Town Hall) and to take trams 5 or 6 on the way back.   

We followed further instruction to visit the Marienkirche, the largest church built in 1230.

With its Astronomical clock dating to 1472.

Again the town was a contrast of old and new.

We think all the ugly buildings have been blurted with rainbow coloured plaster to brighten the place up.  It works.

There is a good shopping area and we managed to squeeze in a Currywurst and Ice Cream.  We had a really good day out.  It is definitely worth the train trip, as its only 15km from Warnemunde.

Sailors Info:

Yachthafen Hohe Dune is billed as a 5 star hotel and marina complex.  The showers are in a block away from the main hotel.  It is 1 euro for a shower.  23 euros per night.  The pontoons are very long, try to get a bit nearer to the shore.  The wifi is good.  There is no supermarket on the yachthafen side of the river but there is an Edeka on the town square and ALDI and REWE a 20 minute walk.  It is lovely for a change for the weary sailor to walk through a 5 star hotel which smells of money.  The sailors were easily distinguishable from the guests and spa residents.

27th June – Tuesday – To Heiligenhafen

0730 start for the 44 miles arriving at 1530.  An overcast and rough morning turned into a calm and sunny afternoon.  Mostly motor sailed.

28th June – Wednesday

Another ridiculously windy day.  We check the wind instruments which measured 36 knots of wind and it was gusting more.  We went to the supermarket to get off the rocky boat for a while and battled the wind with the trolley, whose aerodynamics make her a perfect anchor when full, but takes off when empty.

We really like Heiligenhafen but the constant high wind was very trying.

Fleur being sloshed around.

We moved onto the city of Kiel on the 29th, more of which later.

We have really enjoyed Northern Germany and look forward to re-visiting.

Mid June 2017–Rodvig, Denmark to Malmo, Sweden via Copenhagen

5th June to 8th June – Rodvig

We knew the weather was changing and came to Rodvig, so that we were not in the much smaller village of  Klintholm for several days.  Rodvig did not prove to be much bigger but did offer some diversions.

For two days the boat was pounded by wind and rain.  We were moored in the outer harbour and therefore we were got the worst of the waves and wind induced tidal surge.  ‘Bondie the Kid’ managed to lasso another rope across the boat and around the back post to keep us well away from the boat next door.  The 11th attempt was successful, a great display of perseverance and skill.  We spent most of the time aboard as you don’t want to leave your boat in those conditions and there was nowhere to go ashore for indoor amusement.

8th June – Thursday

Someone had commented on the blog that Rodvig was a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its Geology.  So we took the coastal path to the east.  We came across a disused lime quarry with a huge pyramid structure.  An information board said that the old lime store was now used for cultural events and it looked to be open.

Wow, the wooden structure reminded us of the Royal Dockyards in Chatham.  There was no door and the open space invited us in.  That’s me in the middle.  The echo was amazing.

Back to the Geology, it is evident in the white cliffs, just like Lulworth Cove.  As we rounded the coast in the next few days we saw miles of this undulating rocky structure.

Rodvig cove, looking towards the town.

Sailors Info:

Rodvig has an outer and inner harbour, the inner harbour is for larger boats and fishing vessels.  450 Krone for 3 nights (£54).  Free showers in old but acceptable facilities.  The Brugsen supermarket is located to the right of the marina, follow the road to the white flint kiln and keep going, less than 10 minutes.  There is an ATM to the left of the marina on the harbour-side.  Cafes, restaurants and small souvenir shops which were closed on quiet days.

9th June – To Dragor, base for visiting Copenhagen.

Election results day!!!

The 26 miles took just over 5 hours.  The sea was very (pots rocking in the cupboards) roly in the morning but got better in the afternoon, and there was no wind, though it was quite sunny.  The marina looked pretty full and we did not want to go too far in as there seemed to be nowhere to turn around.  In the outer part of the marina we were waved in by two British motor boats, they said we could stay by them.  At first we thought that meant rafting until we realised that they were on Lazy Lines, which we have never used before.  They are far more common in the Mediterranean.  With their help we managed to get tied up.  They handed us the ropes which are under the boat and attach to the back cleats to stop the boat from moving sideways, whilst front ropes secure the position of the boat.  Over the next few days we helped more than a dozen boats in the same situation.

Fleur, centre.  Jupiter who helped us, on our left.  The visiting boats are good entertainment for the coach visitors.  I talked to a lovely lady from Hong Kong who was here on a cruise.

Dragor is the place people visit for a break from Copenhagen.  It is centred around the harbour and the old town in a maze of small streets lined with painted cottages, which are either tiled or thatched. 

10th June – Saturday

It just so happened that we landed in Dragor at the same time as their annual Market and Fair.

The lady at tourist information gave us this postcard to encourage us to go.  She said it was a half hour walk.

It was well over an hours walk but worth it.  It was a new and used market with a fun fair and circus tent.  There were lots of food stalls and this is were we got our first hint at the prices in Denmark.  £7.20 for a burger.  £8.40 for Noodles.  £6.00 for a pint.  Needless to say we declined but then spent a fascinating two hours marvelling at what the wages must be like if these are market prices.

We found a Netto on the way back, Hoorah.  The IRMA supermarket off the town square was Waitrose plus prices.  We had bought a few things in Rodvig but had not been seriously shopping up to this point, having stocked up in Germany.

11th June – Sunday

I cut Mick’s hair using Beckie’s patent ‘hole in a bin bag and stick your head through method’ to catch the bits.  Worked a charm.  We normally wait until we have a pontoon to ourselves and cut it outside, but its not really possible when you are a tourist attraction on a harbour-side.

We walked to the town fort and along the front where the really posh houses are.

12th June – Monday – Bus to Copenhagen

Copenhagen was our only real destination this year, anything else is a bonus, so it deserved at least one if not two Grand Days out.

We caught the 350S bus from Dragor square, at the top of the high street.  (The bus stop is across the road).  The journey only takes 35 minutes and you still get a scenic tour into town.  My highlight was passing the ‘Posh Hunde Salon’ aka dog groomers.

We have been to Copenhagen before on a Cruise stop over, so we knew the bus was dropping us off just after the main square and Parliament building.  We did not know it was so close to a beautiful park.  A lady on the bus told us to go in and see the palace.

Rosenborg Castle.  Very impressive, the crown jewels are kept here too.  Built by King Christian IV in the early 17th century.

On our way to the Little Mermaid (well you have to, don’t you?) we crossed another park, which housed a moated fort and garrison.

With sentry boxes.

The Little Mermaid.  She had recently been cleaned after being painted red by pranksters.  It is a regular occurrence as a form of protest too.

We were however not alone.  We counted 14 coaches and there were 3 cruise ships in too.

After a cloud burst, we walked to Nyhavn which is the most famous street, lined with brightly painted restaurants and cafes.  Beware the 10 Euro beers, we had last time.  No matter how rich you are £9 is still a lot for a beer.

Our next stop was the Freetown Christiania.  According to the blurb.  “Established in 1971 by a group of hippies, the area has a thriving cultural life with are galleries and music venues, and is home to 1,000 people who have chosen an alternative way of life”.  The houses are mostly self builds and its fascinating to walk around.  Various herbal substances can be purchased on the main street.  The vendors all have a distinctive red brolly to protect their wares from sun and rain.

The sign as you leave.

The entertainment arena.

Fab mural at the exit.

The 13th and 14th were very windy days and we stayed around Dragor.

15th June – Thursday – Grand Day Out number 2.

I specifically wanted to visit the Tivoli gardens as we missed them last time.  Founded in 1843 it is the second oldest amusement park in the world.  It costs 110DK (£13.20) to enter and then rides are extra.  The locals have yearly passes, and a ride ticket at approx £30 would be worthwhile if you are a thrill seeker. 

The grand entrance.

The area is packed with gardens, oases and pavilions, which usually house a restaurant, some of Denmark's best restaurants are in Tivoli.

The Galleon is a floating themed restaurant, as is the boat house.

There are thrills for all ages…..

…. and thrill levels.

The aim seems to be to get your through the doors, ride the rides, and/or eat at whatever level your prefer and stay for a show and the nightly illuminations and fireworks.  Walt Disney visited here.  It would be good to return in the winter when the nights are dark, eat and take in a show.  Friday nights are extra special and have international guest stars.  Eating and shows are also extra.  Danish people like to picnic and there is plenty of room to eat outdoors too.

The 1905 City Hall is near to Tivoli and on our route back to the bus.  It is free to enter and holds art exhibitions in the vast hall.

Main Hall, you can explore all the floors and the staircases have beautiful frescoes.

At the entrance is a special room which houses Jens Olsen’s world clock.  “A watchmaker’s masterpiece”. 

The back is even more beautiful.

There are plenty of shops and many places of interest.  Most admissions are 110DK (£13.20) however a Copenhagen Ticket is available at varying rates for 24, 48 and 72 hours, which gives access to all major attractions including Tivoli and bus and rail travel.  If we had sailed into town this would have been a must.

Sailors Info:

We were glad we stayed in Dragor.  The street marinas were a tight squeeze from what we saw.  The cost was 450DK for 3 nights (£18.00) 10 DK deposit for the shower card.  Showers were free and recently updated.  Good Wi-Fi.  Irma supermarket at the end of the high street.  Netto and Fotex supermarkets 20 minutes walk across the main crossroad out of town, which are definitely worth the walk. 

Ice cream prices highlight the cost difference in Denmark.  One scoop Ice Cream.  Germany 1 Euro, Denmark 25DK 3.30 Euros £3.00.  Basics like eggs, bread and milk can be found for maybe 10% more than Germany.  Cereal, biscuits and meat are more expensive.

16th June – Friday – To Malmo, Sweden

It is only 9.6 miles to Malmo from Dragor across the Drogden and Flintrannan Channels and under the Oresund Bridge.  Made famous by the TV series ‘The Bridge’.  (Really wish we had watched it).  It was a quick 2 hour trip, but beware, the water gets very choppy around the bridge and helming is a challenge.

We raise the Swedish courtesy flag after we pass under the bridge.

Picture shows the navigation signs on the bridge to show where to pass under.  A German boat decided to sail through just when it got interesting and very rocky!

The bridge is a motorway and there is a railway track underneath.  The Danish end goes into a tunnel so that large shipping can pass over.

The marina is large and the walk to the harbourmaster and facilities is long.  A cloud burst made my shower a waste of effort, as I returned more wet than when I left the shower block.

17th June – Saturday - Malmo

We had been told that Malmo closes on Sunday so made the effort to get into town.  My app said it was a 1 hour and 48 minute walk.  It took about 1 hour 20 until we started to see interesting things.

The Turning Torso tower, the tallest building in Scandinavia is a prominent feature on the skyline and very useful to sailors.

Malmo is a mix of the very old and the very new.  Canals lined by modern architecture.

Lilla Torg, billed as the prettiest square in town and rightly so.

The apothecary shop is located at the end of a beautiful arcade which joins two of the town squares.  There is a good selection of shops and a large indoor shopping centre called Triangelen.

We walked our legs off.

Walked back through the park and then walked an hour and a half back to the marina.  There are several parks and old palaces.  We knew we were not going to stay long so did not change any money.  With hindsight I would have used the credit card on the bus.

We left the following day. 

Happy chappie near Oresund Bridge.

Sailors Info:

Malmo Limhamns Marina.  440Kr for 2 nights £19.80 per night.  Machine payment issues Wi-Fi password and facilities Pin Code.  Shower cubicles with communal changing.  All currently being updated to a good standard.  We landed on pontoon B, it would be worth seeking out pontoon F for visitors which on exploration is easy to access, and has turning space if necessary.  Poor Wi-Fi, but we were a long way out.  The lady in the small marina café could not have been more helpful and gave us maps and information booklets.  This is a 4 star marina.  Not sure I want to see a one star.  Chandlers on site. We did not find a supermarket nearby but there is a café and a very nice restaurant on the other side of the marina.

We decided to cross to Sweden as we were so tantalisingly close and we had a courtesy flag.  We are glad we visited and will surely return on another adventure.  We feel a long way from home right now, so are heading back to Denmark and N.E. Germany.