Mid July 2018 – Breskens, South Holland

4th July – Wednesday – Nieuwpoort to Breskens.

The sun had been shining while we were in Nieuwpoort but the winds had also been very high.  We stayed for my birthday, but then as the winds were not forecast to change direction we decided to move on to Breskens.  I felt the sea state would still be turbulent after several days of high winds, but the Captain is in charge so off we went.

Leaving Nieuwpoort.  Note the land past the channel markers, do not be tempted to stray.  When we came in, and were being overtaken by the crane, it would have been so easy to just bob out of the channel to get out of the way, glad we didn’t.

A 09:40 start to catch the tide to enter the marina at Breskens.  The next 40 miles were uncomfortable to say the least.  10 to 20 knots of wind, less was forecast, as usual.  We had 1 to 2 knots of tide against us for the first 3 to 4 hours, which made the ride very bouncy.  The next 4 hours were marginally better with 3 to 4 knots of tide with us and we ended up going into the Westerschelde at 8.8 knots.

These flats are the best long distance indicator of the position of the marina.  The entrance is quite narrow.

The reporting pontoons are located between the concrete pontoons on the left.  The harbourmaster had finished for the day so we stayed overnight on the waiting pontoon and moved to our mooring the following day. 

5th July – Thursday

Breskens town centre is a short walk from the marina.  There is a large ‘Plus’ supermarket and a town square surrounded by cafes and shops.  The town was destroyed during the war so almost everything is new.

Harbour-side warehouse with loaves and fishes fresco.

The lobster fishing boat has a small companion, look left, called ‘The Lobster Express’.

Twelve six foot penguins arranged on a wooden structure form an sculpture on the side of the marina by the artist William Sweetlove.

They light up at night.

There are lots of places to walk, a lovely beach, promenade and importantly 2 ice cream shops.  Not forgetting an extremely good three storey camping shop on the main square.

During our walk Jane and Adrian arrived on ‘Colne Rose’.  We had a brew with them and then they came for drinks in the evening.  Lovely to see them.

6th July – Friday

Mick had been experimenting with the efficiency of our fridge, as it seemed to be running most of the time.  On our walk to town we went into the harbour office of a yacht dealer and asked if there was a local person who could re-gas the fridge.  He said he would arrive at 2:00pm and he promptly arrived.  He completed the task very quickly and efficiently and then fully tested for leaks.  He asked for 50 euros, we gave him 60 for coming so quickly.  The fridge is a very necessary piece of equipment on the boat and a new one is several hundred pounds.  In this heat we were very grateful.

Jane is a fellow crafter and we spent a lovely afternoon crafting and chatting under the canopy on Colne Rose.  They went out for dinner and met more friends in the evening.  They are a very sociable pair.  Great to catch up.

7th July – Saturday

Jane and Adrian left today for their next port before crossing for home. 

We had a walk and our first Kebbeling (fried fish).

England v Sweden – hopes are still high!

8th July – Sunday

Washing, Shopping, Grand Prix.

Acquired two Tupperware type boxes with handles in the top.  Best buy for a while to hold salad, veg etc in the fridge, they can be stacked and allow much easier access to everything.

9th July – Monday – Bruges – Grand Day Out

John and Liz had told us there was a bus to Bruges from Breskens.  It leaves at 19 minutes past the hour, from the Bus Shelter side, on the road, second left after the town square.  6 Euros per person per trip.  The journey takes 1 hour and 20 minutes, no passports currently required.

Bruges Main Square

Main Square restaurants and pretty buildings.

The tourist information office is secreted inside the museum building and there are free maps for the determined!  It looks like you are going into the museum, the desk is up two sets of steps on the left.  The map shows 10 key sites, so walking them filled our day.

There are beautiful buildings around every corner, this is were the canal tours start.

Bruges is famous for its lace and lace-makers.

Back in Belgium, meant access to waffles.

Alms Houses for ladies, who were often widows who did not want to be nuns but wanted to live a peaceful life.

Model of a Nun in the attic window above the oldest restaurant in town.

Another lovely building in the park.

The buses back are 48 minutes to the hour and leave from the bus station.  The bus driver had kindly let us off in the centre. 

The bus went through a very pretty town called ‘Sluis’ not the prettiest name, but definitely on the list for the next visit.

Bruges is a timeless, historic town.  Every corner reveals more beautiful buildings.  It is packed with cafes, restaurants, lots of shops, pretty squares and museums.  We could spend a few of days in Bruges very easily.

Confession, I was looking for the Mannekin Pis, it’s in Brussels!!!

Sailors Info

Breskens Marina was 164 euros for 7 days.  Good facilities, free showers.  Good wifi.  Chandlers on the way to town.  ‘Plus’ supermarket near harbour.  ‘Jumbo’ supermarket at the other side of town.  Easy bus access to Bruges.  New town with everything you need, we really liked it.

Next stop – Middelburg, South Holland

Early July 2018 – Nieuwpoort, Belgium

26th June – Tuesday – Gravelines, France to Nieuwpoort, Belgium.

We left Gravelines at 10:40 after waiting until the lock had opened and the digital depth gauge indicated it was safe for us to leave.  Remember we have a lifting keel, take care as the channel is shallow in parts.

Digital Depth Gauge at Gravelines lock.

The coast here is quite industrial, but I now know they have saved the best bits for the tourists and beaches further along.

The high rise flats on Nieuwpoort seafront and the entrance to the Nieuwpoort channel.  It was quite a bumpy ride into the channel.

Very large crane in the channel which decided to overtake us!!  Talk about timing in an unfamiliar place.

We arrived in Nieuwpoort marina at 16.30 after 30 miles of bouncy seas.  The wind gusted to 20 knots, we had two knots of tide with us and the wind on the nose.  If we had waited for the winds to change direction, for a more comfortable ride, we would still be there.  It is the largest marina on the west coast of Europe which has positives and negatives.

27th June – Wednesday

Big walk today.  The marina is at the end of the channel into town and across from the new and old towns so every trip out involves a big walk.  Bikes are available and free for the first hour.

Old town which is the first area you come to.  Nice shops and lots of restaurants on the harbour-side.

The new town is a good hour further.  We went up the main road which felt like forever.  There is a boardwalk along the side of the channel, which is easier to find on the return journey.

The two streets back from the sea front have lots of good quality shops and cafes.  The promenade is very long and the beach is extensive and well kept.

We then walked all the way back on the boardwalk, which was much more pleasant.

28th June – Wednesday

Short walk to get Diesel and resting while finishing my Rag Hooking Mat, which has taken several weeks.  It was supposed to be a welcome mat, but I need to make another which is bi-directional.

The words are only the right way up when we enter!

30th June – Friday

It has been hot but very windy.  So sitting out has not been that pleasant.

We decided to go back to the new town and beach and were going to take the tram.  The tram terminal is just across the bridge from the marina.

We asked for two tickets and the lady said it was the same price for a day pass.  We looked at each other and asked the lady how far we could go with the ticket.  All the way to the end, she said, which was at the Netherlands border in Knokke.

Well you know us by now.  We hopped onto the next tram and had ourselves an impromptu day out.

The tram goes all the way along the sea front so we went through Middelkerke, Oostende, Bredene, DeHaan and decided to have a coffee in Blankenberge after an hour and a half and seeing several smaller towns too.

Blankenberge is more of a seaside town, very high rise, with extensive beaches, portioned into areas with seats and bars and many restaurants.  It was a hot day and Belgium was sunning itself.  We walked along the promenade and returned to the tram at the Pier terminal.

DeHaan tram stop.  We had noticed DeHaan on our way and it looked much smaller and quaint.

The seaside at DeHaan is low rise and there are lots of nice shops and restaurants in the pretty town and on the promenade. 

My mum and dad used to holiday in camp sites in Bredene and DeHaan, pre me and it was lovely to see these places for myself.  They took our caravan to Blankenberg when I was a child, but I did not recognise anything.

We travelled back to Nieuwpoort beach and then caught the tram back. 

To say we got our monies worth out of our 6 euro tickets is an understatement.  Great Day Out.

2nd July - Monday

Trevor and Vanessa friends from home rang to say they would be staying nearby in their caravan and would pop by to see us.  They came for lunch on the boat and we had a lovely few hours catching up and swopping travel stories.  They are touring for a few weeks now.  They gave us and the trolley a lift to the supermarket, as they were leaving, which was a great help.  Happy travels x.

3rd July – Tuesday

I noticed one sign for an ‘Avond’ market which means Evening.  I looked it up and it was on the evening of my birthday in the new town on the promenade.  After a lazy day we walked the boardwalk to the Beach.  No signs.  We walked about half a mile and faith was justified as the market started and then went on and on and on.

The very long evening market which occurs every Tuesday night in July and August.  I suppose they don’t have to advertise it much, as it was well attended.

Neptune made of flowers as part of a flower display in the old town.

We caught the tram back from the beach after walking the very long market.  Birthday tea, Boudha Chinese.  Not much to look at outside but excellent food.  The Thai I had my eye on was closed.

Sailors Info

Nieuwpoort is a huge marina at the end of the channel and it is a 20 minute walk to the old town.

Alberto the third Memorial is a prominent landmark.

View towards the bridge and memorial from the marina road.

Pyramid which houses a shop and bakery, (bit pricey, but convenient and fresh) open every day in July and August.  The facilities which are free and excellent are located to the rear.

Marina office, restaurant and café.  180 Euros for 8 days.  Easy enough free wifi with password.

The nearest large supermarket is a Carrefour Market on the main harbour-side in the old town, which was not that easy to spot.  Lidl and Aldi on the big main road.  Colyrupt, cash and carry style.

All the facilities of a large marina but due to the size and location the walk to town was a bit tiresome. 

Next Stop Breskens, Netherlands

Late June 2018 – Gravelines

19th June – Tuesday – Sail to France

We waited in Ramsgate until the wind changed direction, which turned into a WSW.  Our 8 hour journey started at 0800 to complete the 37 miles.  At first the wind was very cold and the sea quite wallowy, as it always is around Ramsgate.  The wind picked up to 15 to 22 knots and we sailed for more than 4 hours.  At points we reached 7.2 knots and had to reef both the Main and Genoa, as we were getting ahead of schedule, for the High Tide arrival, to enter the channel and lock at Gravelines.

The sun came out later and we had good visibility for crossing the shipping lanes, which were quite busy.  We radioed one ship to make sure of his intentions, and as always, to volunteer to go astern of him.  It was a big ship which seemed to have a heavy load.

The entrance to Gravelines has sand banks parallel to the coast.

A tricky entrance is always made more interesting when small sailing boats hog the centre of the channel, especially in an unfamiliar port.

Wide channel to the Gravelines Lock

The Spiral Black and White Lighthouse can be seen from a great distance.

The lady in the marina office could not have been more kind.  She gave us a good welcome pack with lots of useful info.  We had to show our boat registration papers and passports as it is the first time we have visited here.

20th June – Wednesday

Gravelines (pronounced Grav, like you are clearing your throat and Lines like Washing Line), is a Vauban Cinque Port.  It has a fortified wall and moat and a large town square with a museum.

We had a good walk around and headed back to the boat as we had invited Peit and Margreet from yacht Osprey for drinks.  Really lovely people on a 53 year old steel board with beautiful wood interior.

Evening visitors.

21st June – Thursday

We walked to Super U supermarket and Mick bought oil for servicing the engine which he did in the afternoon.  Peit and Margreet invited us on board Osprey and we enjoyed a lovely evening in the sunshine.

22nd June – Friday

Friday is market day in Gravelines. 

A large market fills the large market square.

The beauty of our long summers is that we are in no rush.  So we spent a good half hour watching this young Artisan weaving a new seat for a chair.  Sadly we have no need for chairs and he seemed to appreciate that, and our interest.

We continued walking to Petit Fort Phillipe which is a small town on the East side of the channel.

The large sandy beach was being used for sand yachting a few days later.

We were tempted at Moules for lunch but at 14.50 euros each plus drinks but we went back to the marina and bought wine, moules and a bagette for 5 euros.  Please excuse the butter dish, Satellite dish and Dish wires, which frame this happy scene!!

23rd June – Saturday

I spotted a sign for a local festival.  ‘Du Son Sur Les Flots’, The Sound on the Waves, taking place in Grand Port Phillippe located on the West side of the channel.  We think the channel marks a regional boundary, as Grand and Petit Ports seem to ignore each other.

These giants puppets are used in carnivals, see the peep holes in the front.

The local choir started up with a song to the tune of ‘Dirty Old Town’ and we felt right at home.

We purchased Mango and Violet Ice Creams (pronunciation was hilarious), and settled down to watch Les Romain-Michel.  They are a troupe of Theatrical Circus Performers, with more than a touch of slapstick.  Even without understanding the language we could understand the intentions.

Uni-cycling, three person juggling with 12 clubs, impressive.

They jumped over a ‘volunteer’ on a bicycle, then balanced it, which was immediately out done by the troupe leader balancing a full sized road barrier on his chin.  All this took 1 and a half hours with lots of intermittent silliness.  Definitely a French spectacle.

The next two days were hot and windy.  Jobs were done and a good stock up took place.

In the continuing series of boat names and signs here are two additions.

The good yacht – Funky Shit.  We would love to hear them call the coast guard.

The sign post indicating Centre Ville with a hand symbol, on a sign pointing at the sea.

Sailors Info: Gravelines Marina

Very friendly welcome.  Welcome pack.  Free Wifi for 3 hrs per day. 

The water inside the locked marina was a bit smelly at low tide.  It was Spring Tide as we got there and the low water was very low.  This may put some people off visiting, but it was fine.

Lidl on the harbourside.  Stocking up was a doddle.  106 Euros for 6 nights with the 7th free.  With hindsight we should have left on the 6th day as the weather and wind were more calm, but a bargain is a bargain. 

We left for Nieuwpoort on the 26th.