28th August – Tuesday – Middelburg to Vlissingen
After another 7 nights in Middelburg it was time to move on. Due to the tides for the following day we left Middelburg on the 10:37 Blue Wave convoy to Vlissingen (AKA Flushing). We intended to then leave early and sail to Ostende. Plans change.
We arrived in Vlissingen by 12:00, only 5 miles and 5 bridges, so plenty of time for a look around. We have been once before but it was 3 years ago and we did not really explore.
We first walked to the Promenade which is very long and has this attractive tower which is now also a cafe.
The harbour-side and route to the inner harbour.
Impressive array of pilot boats.
One of the Cafe lined town squares.
Pretty shopping streets.
On the street above was the Pram Museum, now I know I like a museum but this was an unusual one. It was a ladies own collection which in only 6 years had grown too large for her house. Admission fee was a donation. She also had sewing machines, games and toys.
So I take it back that there is not much in Vlissingen as there was also a large shopping centre and we passed several hours wandering.
Sailors Info:
Vlissingen Yacht Club Marina VVWSchelde is located just after the last bridge, before the big lock, there is a small yacht club. Great for an overnight stay. Since our last visit they have had new pontoons installed. The facilities are still 50 cents for a shower. The club members are very welcoming. Do not take a large boat past the first long pontoon, as you will end up backing out, space is tight. Much better to moor on the long pontoon on the right and walk to the office. 23 Euros per night. Albert Hein in town in the pedestrianised shopping area.
Sunrise in Vlissingen. New pontoon on the right.
29th August – Wednesday – Vlissingen to Ostende, no, make that Dunkirk.
06:00 get up for a 06:45 start to make the 07:15 lock. Ourselves, a small fishing boat and two large barges eventually squeezed in.
We had to catch the tide in the Westerschelde estuary to be whooshed out of the river to ride the tide to Ostende. The channel was very busy with tankers and fishing boats. The weather was overcast but manageable. We saw dolphins and a seal and made a quick transit to Ostende by 11:30am. As it was still early, and as we had made this passage before, the navigation planning was done, so we decided to press on to Dunkirk. With the remarks, those clouds don’t look too bad, it will only be showers, and the forecast is only for 2mm of rain. After the first hour it started raining and swamped down for the next 3 hours. Hmmm…. We arrived in Dunkirk at 14:30 after 56 miles, drenched but happy we had not wasted a day in Ostende. Two courtesy flag changes in one day, Belgium (briefly) and France.
30th August – Thursday
A walk into town brought us to the impressive Town Hall.
And the inner harbour. Me and my last French Baguette.
After lunch we walked to the beach (Plage) as Trevor and Vanessa had recommended. The new bridge leads from the contemporary art complex over the dunes from the marina to the beach.
Art Deco building on the sea front.
Dunkirk Promenade and Beach. Lots of cafes and eateries. At regular intervals there are also historical displays showing events from the Dunkirk Evacuation.
31st August – Friday
The ‘Musee Dunkerque Operation Dynamo’ is only a short walk from the Grande Large marina.
We had visited Dover Castle previously to see the British end of the operation so we were keen to see the other perspective. A video at the entrance runs alternately in French with English Subtitles then English with French Subtitles on a loop.
The museum is not huge but packs in lots of information. At each arch there is a room on either side with displays of uniforms, munitions, vehicles etc. Also in each arch there is a display which follows a daily timeline from the start to the end of the evacuation, narrating how the events unfolded.
Entry was only 8 euros per person and we were in there at least 2 hours.
While walking around town later we came upon The Princess Elizabeth, a paddle steamer which took part in Operation Dynamo. In four crossings, she successfully evacuated 1673 soldiers of which 500 were French.
In the evening we came across a solo sailor on a mission south, after a good chat and a beer we wished him well with a gift of our last English beer. We have been watching his rapid and determined progress. Good Luck Nino.
Sailors Info:
Dunkirk Marina Grande Large. 79 Euros for 3 nights. Good facilities with card access. It is a good 20 minute walk to town and the route is not so obvious. L’Eclerc supermarket in town. The visitor pontoon is located opposite the fishing boats and they do not spare the horses on their entry and exit, giving the visitor moorings a good shake, rattle and roll.
1st September – Saturday – Dunkirk to Ramsgate
We left Dunkirk at 09:00 and after 9 blissfully uneventful hours we arrived in Ramsgate.
Dunkirk Lighthouse.
The harbour entrance at Dunkirk.
The industrial area to the west of Dunkirk. Just like the Thames industrial zone we passed earlier in the year.
A cormorant sunning itself on a buoy.
The East Goodwin lightship. To protect sailors from the treacherous Goodwin Sands.
The sun was out and so were the dolphins. The shipping channels were busy but the visibility was excellent. Sadly there was no wind for a sail, but the blue sky was adequate compensation.
We arrived at 5:00pm just in time for Fish and Chips at the Sunset Cafe.
2nd Sept – Sunday
Luxury, Sunday Papers.
I noticed a small Ferris wheel above the arches overlooking the marina, so we went to investigate. We came across Addington Street Revival Fair. 4 streets and a parks worth of stalls and fun goings-on.
Addington Street in full swing.
Vale Square marquis full of tempting food and music.
Addington Street the following day. What Fair?
5th Sept – Wednesday
As we had been in Ramsgate earlier in the year, by Wednesday we needed a change of scenery. So we hopped on ‘The Loop’ bus which loops around Broadstairs, Margate, and back to Ramsgate all day for £4.30 each.
Our first hop off was in Broadstairs. Above is the old bakehouse, the oldest building in Broadstairs. As it was an overcast Wednesday our walk around did not take long.
Next stop Margate. We went to the Turner Contemporary gallery which is free to enter and spent a good hour in the current ‘Animals and Us’ exhibition.
Loved this monkey which was one of about ten.
A human representation of a nest. The art represented how we have re-created animal images over the centuries. It was more my cup of tea than Mick’s.
The ‘Tudor House’ is located near Morrisons, I am glad we went to look for it, sadly it was closed.
Our next stop was the Westbrook shopping centre. I suspect this is the reason why the shopping in Ramsgate is deteriorating, and being replaced by vintage shops and cafes. There are only so many pennies so go round.
We had a very enjoyable day on the bus.
6th Sept – Thursday – Ramsgate to Ipswich
We had the best weather window today according to the forecast for the next week so decided to make our final passage to Ipswich. The forecast was for force 5 which is manageable. We left Ramsgate at 06:45 to make the 58 mile trip along with several Wind Farm support vessels, which are large and fast.
The first 5 hours were rather unpleasant and I steered all that time until the sea state settled a little. Mick did a sterling job navigating, checking everything and going below, but even he felt seasick as we were near to the North Foreland over-falls. There was a cold wind but it was sunny.
The tide was against us for a short while out of Ramsgate and then again just before Felixstowe. But we caught the tide up the River Orwell and arrived in Ipswich at 18:00.
Passing Felixstowe.
After just over 11 hours we arrived at Ipswich lock. Just so that we were not lulled into a false sense of security with an easy lock in, these guys in a pair of barges, pulling two buoys, also entered the lock. On our metal to the last.
Ipswich is a great safe haven and we are glad to be back.
Summary to follow.
