Mid July – Caledonian Canal, Inverness to Fort William

Our original intention for the year was to partially circumnavigate the UK, hopefully via the Orkneys.  The weather has not been kind, we also need to be near an Airport for the imminent arrival of Mick’s first grandchild in Dublin.  So we decided to head west via the Caledonian Canal and then think again at the other end.  Most of the sailors we have met so far this year have made the same decision.

The Caledonian Canal was built by Thomas Telford and opened in 1822.  It is approx 96.4km long, of which 22 miles are manmade.  There are 29 locks and 10 swing bridges, operated by Scottish Canals staff.

11th July – Thursday – To Seaport Marina, Inverness

Tide heights define the entry times to Clachnaharry Sea Lock. 

It was a foggy morning.  The crew would have waited an hour, but the skipper insisted.  Only 1.5km to the sea-lock.

Clachnaharry Sea Lock which we entered with a beautiful motor boat we had seen in Newcastle.

At this point Mick was taken off to the sea-lock office to pay our dues for traversing the canal.

Our 10.5m yacht costs £223 (£3 electric first night).  The cost includes 8 days passage and 7 nights moorings along the canal and a ‘Skippers Guide to the Caledonian Canal’.  The first night in the Seaport Marina is included in the overall cost, additional nights at Seaport are £10.

You will also be issued with a key on a black and white fob.  This is for entry into the canal-side facilities along the length of the canal.  They were generally adequate, with Fort Augustus being the best. 

As you can see the lock sides are stone, so make sure you have a fender board to position between your boat fenders and the lock wall.  Position it on the Starboard side to start with as Starboard is generally the working side for the lock-keepers.  But be prepared to move it quickly.

Our fender board showed battle scars quickly.

We then proceeded through the swing bridge and another set of locks to reach the Seaport Marina, positioned just before the first flight of locks.  We chose to stay here so that we could make an early start through the locks in better weather, hopefully.

There is a very handy Lidl and other stores down the hill from the Swing Bridge, so we stocked up.

Mick was winched half way up our mast by a Swiss gentleman to fix the Steaming light.

View of the Swing Bridge at the bottom of the Muirtown Flight from the marina.

Seaport Marina

It is a walk to the facilities but Lidl is very handy.  Fill up with water here.

12th July – Friday

Mick had spoken to the lock-keeper on the previous day to find out what time we could ascend the flight.  He was told there were 3 big boats passing through early an we would be able to enter at about 11.30am. 

Mick was watching the lock from our berth and saw other boats gathering.  So at 10.00am he decided we would move closer to the lock and raft up onto one of the waiting boats.  When we arrived they informed us that they had been told they could leave in about 20 minutes.  Hmmmm it’s going to be like that is it!

We went through the Swing Bridge and entered the lock at 10.45 with three other boats.  Mollymawk from Dartmouth, one Dutch boat and one fairly local boat.  We had the Starboard mooring behind the locals.

Muirtown Flight, Lock 1 of 4.

To start with they insist that you throw the whole of your Bow and then Stern lines to the lock-keeper and they link them over cleats and then hand them back to you.  You must not tie off your ropes during this process.  Up to Fort Augustus the locks will be rising.  So as the water flows in we just shorten the ropes until the boat is almost level with the top of the lock.

After the first lock people get the idea and we perform our tasks without much fuss.  Kevin and Duncan were our first lock-keepers and explained everything well.

A couple of miles after the locks is a small marina with a Chandlers, so we stopped to buy a new light bulb.  We had to wait for a Bridge at Tomnahurich above.

Again it was a bit hit and miss, as the lockkeepers had radioed ahead and we were told the bridge would open at 13.00, after lunch.  It eventually opened at 13.30.

The next lock at Dochgarroch was our last for today.  The lockkeepers had also radioed to Margaret the lockkeeper at Dochgarroch and she was expecting us and pointed us to a pontoon berth on the right after the lock.  The other boats we had been travelling with decided to press on to Loch Ness.  We decided to save Loch Ness for tomorrow as the weather forecast was better.  So we moored up at 3pm.  We had drizzly mist all day, but not enough to warrant a coat.  It is so much warmer inland.

There is a newly opened visitor centre called Atallan at Dochgarroch selling high end items and housing a beautiful cafe. 

When we moored we had a decent view of the lock, always entertaining.  However…

 

at 17.00 the ‘Jacobite Maverick’ (passenger cruiser, £22 per person) moored up for the night.  The cleaners arrived at 18.00 and ran the generator which emitted cooling water noisily from under the hull for the next two hours.  I understand people have to work.  This must happen every day.  If you get any choice, ask for a mooring further away from the lock.  Annoyingly there were several available.

13th July – Saturday – To Fort Augustus via Loch Ness

We had a peaceful night and left early when the generator started again at 08.10!

Loch Dochfour is a beautiful precursor to Loch Ness.  It is well buoyed.

Our first view of Loch Ness.  Wow photos just do not do it justice.

Sorry, could not resist.  Nessie spotting.

What you can’t make up is just how deep Loch Ness is.  We registered 175m and saw 182m but we don’t believe the instruments are that accurate at these extremes.

As the day progressed the weather became brighter and the views became even better.

We first visited Urquhart castle more than 15 years ago, and you could park at the roadside and walk to the castle.  Now the visitor centre dominates the scene when viewing from East to West.

The views kept rolling by.  We were so lucky with the weather,  it is worth waiting.

It is possible to anchor in many places along the canal, if that is your thing.

All good things come to an end.  Around lunchtime we arrived at Fort Augustus.  We moored up expecting to join a queue and tackle the next flight tomorrow.

Mick went and talked to the lock-keepers and they informed him there was another movement up the 5 locks at about 1.30.  We had managed to have a quick sandwich at the end of Loch Ness, thank goodness.

Le Boat operate many hire boats throughout the canal.  They are not given radio’s, so they just turn up at the locks and expect them to be opened.  The lock–keepers are hard pressed to keep order.

We were told we would be Portside to with 3 other boats.  Until a Le Boat pushed in at the front we would have been one of two boats on the port side.  We were now one of three and our stern was very close to the rear lock gate.

Fortunately, the LeBoat in front of us was occupied by 8 people.  At Fort Augustus because there were so many novices the lock keepers had to take their ropes.  So anyone else had to walk their boat through, managing their own ropes.  A nice Australian man called Derek from the boat in front volunteered to be our third crew member as they were over-staffed.

Fort Augustus locks are quite tight and the front LeBoat was buffeted badly by the incoming water as the locks rose.  Serves him right.

Derek told us that a boat for 8 people costs £2,500 per week.  There are smaller ones available.  They only get half an hours tuition.  We taught several how to tie their ropes.  They wear bright orange life jackets which are useful for spotting hire boats ahead.

Boats processing to the first lock, through the swing bridge. The town comes to a halt and the crowds gather.  The best spectator sport on a sunny afternoon is watching boats in locks.

First lock, Mick keeping Fleur away from the lock gates.

View forward into the lock, crowds gathering.

Second lock with water level low.

Lock with water level high and temporary crew Derek in his LeBoat orange life jacket.  Crowds had got bored by now.

It took 2 and a half hours to ascend the five locks as they all needed filling.  We owe Derek a big favour, sadly they progressed immediately at the top.  Thank You Derek.

We moored on the pontoons at the top of the Fort Augustus flight.

After a good shower and change we headed out into town for tea.

Where has everyone gone.

We ate at The Bothy near the swing bridge.  Old style pub grub.

Later we came across the Black Rock Ceilidh Band in the Richmond Hotel.  The pub was full behind me.  The sax player had been playing an Accordian.  

We met a Californian couple who were walking the ‘Great Glen Way’, which is 79 miles of paths along the canal.  We saw many cyclists, motorhomes, caravans along the way.  The A82 also runs the length of the canal.

Beautifully still evening.  View from the top of the locks.

Fort Augustus pontoon mooring.

We stayed here for two nights.  The day after I walked around town while Mick watched the British Grand Prix.  Excellent ice creams.

Bagpiper.  Love or Hate?

15th July – Monday - To Fort William

We set off at 0900 and the first lock had a picture perfect cottage and a lock-keeper who originated from our home town.  He recognised our accents. 

There were two locks and a swing bridge before Lock Oich, which was beautiful.

Small Island in Loch Oich, just to keep us on our toes.

The depth and clarity of the reflections are amazing.

Swing bridge at the end of Loch Oich.

Then the majesty of Loch Lochy.  Just when you think it can’t get better.

Loch Lochy.

Our first glimpse of Ben Nevis.

Two locks and two swing bridges at the end of Loch Lochy leading to Fort William along a pretty stretch of canal.

We moored at the top of Neptune’s Staircase on pontoons with views of Ben Nevis.

16th July – Tuesday – Neptune’s Staircase

Neptune’s Staircase is the last flight of locks in the Caledonian canal if you are travelling East to West.  It is a set of 9 locks with significant drops.

As seen on our navigation system.

We were advised that the first descent would be around 08.00.  The lock gates were opened by Andrew and Gillian the lock-keepers and we entered promptly with David and Sarah on Mollymawk, who we had entered the canal with 6 days ago.  There was supposed to be 4 boats going down, but the others did not appear despite 3 radio calls from Gillian.  Good news for us as it will be quicker and easier with just two boats.

Top of Neptune’s Staircase.

See the water mark on the walls of the lock.

David and Sarah on Mollymawk.

A blissfully uneventful one hour and 15 minutes later we were at the bottom, again walking Fleur through the gates with engine assistance.  We decided to stay in the Seaport Basin marina for the night.

In the afternoon we caught the N47 bus into Fort William from the bus stop on the road above the marina.  Corpach has a train station and occasional steam trains.  Sadly we had missed todays train.  Only £6.80 return for two on the bus.  There is great speculation at present, what Lewis Hamilton does between Grand Prix.  I am happy to report he is driving a bus in Fort William! 

Fleur in Corpach Basin marina with Ben Nevis in the background.

There is a Coop on the main road above the marina.  The carpark seems to attract lots of visitors.  Walkers, Cyclists, dog walkers, dog walking groups, motorhomes, people just cruising around to see what boats are in.

Beware the marina water level went down two feet while we were out, thank goodness we had some slack in the ropes, Mick had to alter the ropes of the boat next door.

The Caledonian canal is a great trip no matter which mode of travel you take.

Next stop Oban after a trying day.

Mid July 2019 – Whitehills and Inverness

5th July – Friday – Peterhead to Whitehills

At 5.20am we left Peterhead and a large seal popped up in the harbour entrance to brighten the morning.  From a misty morning the sun came out occasionally and we rock and rolled around Rattray Head, with the over-falls making their presence felt.  The sea turned glassy but the undercurrents were still strong, churning the sea.  We arrived in Whitehills at 12.20pm after 38 nm.

All the way, the coast once again, was a green and beautiful site.

Whitehills harbour entrance.  Fortunately Mick had shown me a video of the entrance into Whitehills the previous night so it was less nerve racking.  The entrance is narrow, proceed down the channel past the markers to the right and aim for the lifeboat slipway, dead ahead.

Bertie the harbourmaster is likely to be on hand with instructions, and a loud ‘LEFT’ at the moment we had to hang a left into the small outer harbour and then a dog leg into the harbour proper.

The right hand markers, when the tide is out!!!!  Rocks!!

Fleur tucked into the inner harbour, centre.

There is a 4 metre tide in Whitehills, as you can see from the angle of the gangway above.

And the view of the wall from the boat when the tide is out.  Prisoner cell block H.

We were told that the Fish and Chip restaurant in town was worth a look, so off we went.  Rockfish does not have a licence to sell alcohol but you can take your own, or buy it from the Premier shop across the road, very handy.  Then you find out that the chip shop, the Premier shop and the pub are all owned by the same person.  Fine by us.

6th July – Saturday

Rainy day, so time for laundry.  Nick and Lindsay from Moana came for a coffee.  We had seen them at Peterhead, so it was nice to catch up and discuss our plans.

The planned town regatta took place despite the conditions.  Approx 8 boats went out.  Braver than me.

7th July – Sunday

We walked to the next town of Banff along the coastal path.

Banff in the distance and the wild sea.  It was sunny but very windy.  The kite surfers were out in the afternoon.  The walk took approximately one hour. 

Banff also has a small harbour, with an equally tricky entrance.  Banff has more amenities than Whitehills.  Tesco, Coop, small High Street and the Famous Spotty Bag shop (thanks to the lady in Tesco for recommending this cafe after our walk).  Another of those Scottish shops where you can buy anything.  Through the maze of rooms, we went upstairs to the cafe for tea and a scone.

The coast walk is beautiful and threads through two caravan sites and along a promenade in Banff.

Mick watching the kite surfers and the crashing waves.  It is possible to walk to Macduff which is the next slightly larger town, but Banff was enough for today.

Sailors Port Info: Whitehills Marina

The marina is owned by the locals.  Bertie the harbourmaster being the most visible and jolly.  Everyone was very welcoming and gave us good information, particularly about the Rockfish chippy.  The price is £25 per night for a boat over 10 metres.  £2 Wash, £1 Dry.  Facilities are OK, showers £1.  Only wifi in marina office.  Our TV aerial did not work well, especially when the tide was out.

Whitehills is a small old fishing village, there is a pub, restaurant, a shop, a chippy and a fish market called Downies.  Good place to recharge your batteries.

8th July – Monday – Whitehills to Inverness

A small flotilla left Whitehills on the next good weather day.  A 06.00am alarm started our day early for the 60nm to Inverness.  Catching the early tide meant we reached the heady heights of 7.8 knots.  A cold morning became warmer and the Moray Firth shone in its full glory.  The early few hours of washing machine sea, were replaced by a smooth glassy surface, with strong currents beneath.  We did manage to see a dolphin, they are famous around here. 

Mick enjoying the sunshine.

We had thought of going to Lossiemouth, but the weather was good so we pressed on.  5 RAF Typhoons took off almost vertically as we passed by.  Many photos resulted in this one poor effort, they are quick.

At the end of the Moray Firth we reached Fort George, a large 18th century garrison and popular tourist attraction, built after the Jacobite Rising.

Mick and the imaginatively named Inverness Road Bridge.

We arrived at 16.20 after ten hours.  Beautiful scenery, rolling seas, sunshine and a chill wind.

9th July – Tuesday

Walked into town and did a good shop at Lidl, went to look at the Caledonian Canal entrance, and bought a new TV aerial.  We got drenched.

10th July – Wednesday

Better weather today, time to be tourists.  It is a 30 minute walk into town, through the port area.

We first came upon the entrance to the Victorian market arcade.

Inside the Victorian arcade.  Many small shops and cafes.

The walks around the river are lovely and take you from the Castle to the Cathedral and if you go further, the Botanic gardens.

We walked around the castle grounds, which lead to the Museum.  It is free to enter and has a good display of the towns history and achievements.

The town centre shopping is excellent, as is the new Eastgate shopping centre.

Sailors Port Info: Inverness Marina

Located just after the Inverness Road Bridge, the entrance is not obvious from the sea, stay alert.

The signage is quite small, look out for the red post.

Cost £93 for 3 nights inc electric.  The marina is new and well appointed.  Facilities are good, socket in hallway.  Wifi was broken.  Good book with map given on arrival.  The busy ‘Dolphin Spirit’ Tour boat is moored here.

30 minute walk to town.  No amenities close by.  Tesco, Morrisons and Lidl in town.  Screw Fix Direct in the industrial estate nearby.

Next stop Caledonian Canal.

Early July 2019 – Peterhead and Aberdeen

26th June – Arbroath to Peterhead

We left Arbroath at 07.30 to make the 65nm trip to Peterhead.  A small flotilla of British, Dutch and Belgian craft all left at about the same time, as it was the time the lock opened, so not much choice really.  We then spent the next two hours gingerly navigating through the laced network of pots strewn in the channel.  It feels as though no thought is taken in the placing of the pots and it is the worst example we have seen so far. 

The wind was cool, but the sun was out and became warmer in the afternoon.  The large swell of the morning also decreased as we arrived in Peterhead at 19.30, a long day motor-sailing.

Some interesting vessels passed by.  This is an offshore service vehicle.  We met a chief engineer who told us that his vessel serviced 3 rigs and they worked 28 days on 28 days off.  The flat back deck holds half sized containers which are easier to crane on and off the rigs.

Anyone know what this one does?  It was huge.

This one has a helipad on the front.  As we were passing Aberdeen at 5pm we saw several heavy duty helicopters ferrying passengers.  They really thunder overhead.

Inside the harbour wall at Peterhead the offshore vehicles are loaded, refueled etc.  The tiny sign between them is the sign for the marina fuel berth.  Glad we did not have to use that.

Entrance to Peterhead marina.  Make sure you pass the green buoy correctly to Starboard as the rocks are very close.

I could now explain how we passed the next 9 nights here, but I won’t bore you.  Here are the highlights.

The harbourmaster came the next day to tell us we had to move the boat.  A couple had waved us to a berth the night before but it turned out not to be for visitors.  As it was a little windy the couple and a man with a large dog offered to help.  As we were entering the new mooring, the helpers took the ropes, but did not tie them off as the dog was in the way.  The dog then put its two front paws on the side of the boat.  It being a big dog, then pushed the boat away from the pontoon, and in slow motion to its great surprise landed in the water.  The dog, we now know as Hugo, floundered to the pontoon and our kind helper picked him out of the water by his doggy lifejacket, which has a handle.  Only to the rewarded with a soaking from Hugo, who we now know was on his first visit to his owners boat.  Quite a baptism.

North View of the harbour, with caravan site.

South View with caravan site and small marina, next to offshore service vehicles.

We thought they would make a lot of noise, but were surprisingly quiet.

29th June – Saturday – To Aberdeen on the bus.

Mick had never been to Aberdeen and I had only been briefly on the work trip so off we went.  The bus stop is literally above the marina on the main road.  The buses depart at three minutes passed the hour.  I had my change ready, but soon found out it was not enough.  Mick swooped in with a card to pay the £27 return for two.  It is a one hour journey, but we have done similar in Europe for 4 euros each.  Stagecoach has a monopoly around here and the train station closed in 1976.

We arrived to a parade for Armed Forces day, which had a 1940s theme.

These pictures show off the long streets of the granite city well too.

Top of the agenda was the Maritime Museum, which is free.  Just a short walk from the bus station.

Underwater Explorer up close.  Approx 8 ft long.

Mick controlling a smaller version in a tank.

I had never seen a ‘Tea Brick’ before, from the times when tea was a very expensive commodity.

Drill bits from a oil rig.

A model of an oil rig, showing the depth of the structure under the water.

The display regarding windfarms was particularly enlightening as we have seen so many this year.  Each turbine produces per year enough energy to power 2,000 households.  With new turbines, producing more.  Most are built in waters 25 metres deep, weighing 450 tonnes, which is the equivalent of 35 double decker buses.

It was great to find out more about the oil, gas and wind industries, as well as the maritime history.  Highly recommended if you are in Aberdeen.

Next stop was the Tollbooth House.  A small museum about the prison which was once part of the current court buildings.

One of the doors and impressive locks.

The museum is in three parts, two cells and a display area, which are connected by three small spiral staircases comprising 80 steps.  The guides radio between floors when visitors move around to avoid pile-ups.  Again this is free and only takes half an hour.  The people in the maritime museum told us about it.

We found a square courtyard in the middle of a building to have a sit and an ice cream.  The beautiful leopard sculpture was the centre piece.  The two tonne cat was perched on a pole 20 metres in the air.  There was a display explaining how they managed to make it and get it into position.

There is good shopping in Aberdeen and it all made for a Grand Day Out.  We just got back to the boat as a thunder and lightning display started.  I took solace in the fact that the service vehicles next door are so much big, the lightning would hopefully get them first.

When we could, due to the terrible weather, we went for walks in and around  Peterhead over the next few days.

From the small esplanade there is a good view of the rock pools near the fishing harbour.  Peterhead is still one of the largest harbours.

We saw this marina resident a few times on our walks.

Sailors Port Info

We spent 9 nights in Peterhead marina at the very small cost of £119.

On arrival there is a treasure hunt for the keys, if you arrive after 19.00.  Find the green box near the pontoon entrance.  Open the box to find the safe, insert the code and take out the envelope containing the key to the marina and facilities.

From the visitor moorings, which are not marked, there is a snaking system of pontoons to negotiate to get to the shore.  The facilities at first glance seemed dated, with old tie flooring.  But they were clean, freshly painted, had new curtains and a super hairdryer, tick.

On the downside there was no wifi.  The walk into town is a good 30 minutes.  Go through the caravan site and onto the bottom path.  There is an Aldi at the end of the path.  Lidl and Home Bargains are 40 minutes walk, as is Morrisons at the other end of town.  There is a Wetherspoons and a small high street.

There is a Victorian Prison museum which was recommended to us and there are walks along the coast to Cruden Bay, but the weather was so awful, we did not bother.  The lovely Belgian couple next door did not use their bikes for fear of being blown off them and hired a car for three days, which was a great idea.

On the plus side, the harbourmasters could not have been more pleasant.  One gave Mick a lift to the petrol station for diesel, another gave us a lift to the bus stop.  They gave us a bag of ‘Butteries’ one day, a local delicacy a bit like a squashed, round croissant, lovely with jam and butter.

I end with an additional to our occasional series on boat names.

Otherwise known as Seagulls….

Next stop Whitehills on the Moray Firth.  No I had not heard of it either, but it is a great little harbour.