Our original intention for the year was to partially circumnavigate the UK, hopefully via the Orkneys. The weather has not been kind, we also need to be near an Airport for the imminent arrival of Mick’s first grandchild in Dublin. So we decided to head west via the Caledonian Canal and then think again at the other end. Most of the sailors we have met so far this year have made the same decision.
The Caledonian Canal was built by Thomas Telford and opened in 1822. It is approx 96.4km long, of which 22 miles are manmade. There are 29 locks and 10 swing bridges, operated by Scottish Canals staff.
11th July – Thursday – To Seaport Marina, Inverness
Tide heights define the entry times to Clachnaharry Sea Lock.
It was a foggy morning. The crew would have waited an hour, but the skipper insisted. Only 1.5km to the sea-lock.
Clachnaharry Sea Lock which we entered with a beautiful motor boat we had seen in Newcastle.
At this point Mick was taken off to the sea-lock office to pay our dues for traversing the canal.
Our 10.5m yacht costs £223 (£3 electric first night). The cost includes 8 days passage and 7 nights moorings along the canal and a ‘Skippers Guide to the Caledonian Canal’. The first night in the Seaport Marina is included in the overall cost, additional nights at Seaport are £10.
You will also be issued with a key on a black and white fob. This is for entry into the canal-side facilities along the length of the canal. They were generally adequate, with Fort Augustus being the best.
As you can see the lock sides are stone, so make sure you have a fender board to position between your boat fenders and the lock wall. Position it on the Starboard side to start with as Starboard is generally the working side for the lock-keepers. But be prepared to move it quickly.
Our fender board showed battle scars quickly.
We then proceeded through the swing bridge and another set of locks to reach the Seaport Marina, positioned just before the first flight of locks. We chose to stay here so that we could make an early start through the locks in better weather, hopefully.
There is a very handy Lidl and other stores down the hill from the Swing Bridge, so we stocked up.
Mick was winched half way up our mast by a Swiss gentleman to fix the Steaming light.
View of the Swing Bridge at the bottom of the Muirtown Flight from the marina.
Seaport Marina
It is a walk to the facilities but Lidl is very handy. Fill up with water here.
12th July – Friday
Mick had spoken to the lock-keeper on the previous day to find out what time we could ascend the flight. He was told there were 3 big boats passing through early an we would be able to enter at about 11.30am.
Mick was watching the lock from our berth and saw other boats gathering. So at 10.00am he decided we would move closer to the lock and raft up onto one of the waiting boats. When we arrived they informed us that they had been told they could leave in about 20 minutes. Hmmmm it’s going to be like that is it!
We went through the Swing Bridge and entered the lock at 10.45 with three other boats. Mollymawk from Dartmouth, one Dutch boat and one fairly local boat. We had the Starboard mooring behind the locals.
Muirtown Flight, Lock 1 of 4.
To start with they insist that you throw the whole of your Bow and then Stern lines to the lock-keeper and they link them over cleats and then hand them back to you. You must not tie off your ropes during this process. Up to Fort Augustus the locks will be rising. So as the water flows in we just shorten the ropes until the boat is almost level with the top of the lock.
After the first lock people get the idea and we perform our tasks without much fuss. Kevin and Duncan were our first lock-keepers and explained everything well.
A couple of miles after the locks is a small marina with a Chandlers, so we stopped to buy a new light bulb. We had to wait for a Bridge at Tomnahurich above.
Again it was a bit hit and miss, as the lockkeepers had radioed ahead and we were told the bridge would open at 13.00, after lunch. It eventually opened at 13.30.
The next lock at Dochgarroch was our last for today. The lockkeepers had also radioed to Margaret the lockkeeper at Dochgarroch and she was expecting us and pointed us to a pontoon berth on the right after the lock. The other boats we had been travelling with decided to press on to Loch Ness. We decided to save Loch Ness for tomorrow as the weather forecast was better. So we moored up at 3pm. We had drizzly mist all day, but not enough to warrant a coat. It is so much warmer inland.
There is a newly opened visitor centre called Atallan at Dochgarroch selling high end items and housing a beautiful cafe.
When we moored we had a decent view of the lock, always entertaining. However…
at 17.00 the ‘Jacobite Maverick’ (passenger cruiser, £22 per person) moored up for the night. The cleaners arrived at 18.00 and ran the generator which emitted cooling water noisily from under the hull for the next two hours. I understand people have to work. This must happen every day. If you get any choice, ask for a mooring further away from the lock. Annoyingly there were several available.
13th July – Saturday – To Fort Augustus via Loch Ness
We had a peaceful night and left early when the generator started again at 08.10!
Loch Dochfour is a beautiful precursor to Loch Ness. It is well buoyed.
Our first view of Loch Ness. Wow photos just do not do it justice.
Sorry, could not resist. Nessie spotting.
What you can’t make up is just how deep Loch Ness is. We registered 175m and saw 182m but we don’t believe the instruments are that accurate at these extremes.
As the day progressed the weather became brighter and the views became even better.
We first visited Urquhart castle more than 15 years ago, and you could park at the roadside and walk to the castle. Now the visitor centre dominates the scene when viewing from East to West.
The views kept rolling by. We were so lucky with the weather, it is worth waiting.
It is possible to anchor in many places along the canal, if that is your thing.
All good things come to an end. Around lunchtime we arrived at Fort Augustus. We moored up expecting to join a queue and tackle the next flight tomorrow.
Mick went and talked to the lock-keepers and they informed him there was another movement up the 5 locks at about 1.30. We had managed to have a quick sandwich at the end of Loch Ness, thank goodness.
Le Boat operate many hire boats throughout the canal. They are not given radio’s, so they just turn up at the locks and expect them to be opened. The lock–keepers are hard pressed to keep order.
We were told we would be Portside to with 3 other boats. Until a Le Boat pushed in at the front we would have been one of two boats on the port side. We were now one of three and our stern was very close to the rear lock gate.
Fortunately, the LeBoat in front of us was occupied by 8 people. At Fort Augustus because there were so many novices the lock keepers had to take their ropes. So anyone else had to walk their boat through, managing their own ropes. A nice Australian man called Derek from the boat in front volunteered to be our third crew member as they were over-staffed.
Fort Augustus locks are quite tight and the front LeBoat was buffeted badly by the incoming water as the locks rose. Serves him right.
Derek told us that a boat for 8 people costs £2,500 per week. There are smaller ones available. They only get half an hours tuition. We taught several how to tie their ropes. They wear bright orange life jackets which are useful for spotting hire boats ahead.
Boats processing to the first lock, through the swing bridge. The town comes to a halt and the crowds gather. The best spectator sport on a sunny afternoon is watching boats in locks.
First lock, Mick keeping Fleur away from the lock gates.
View forward into the lock, crowds gathering.
Second lock with water level low.
Lock with water level high and temporary crew Derek in his LeBoat orange life jacket. Crowds had got bored by now.
It took 2 and a half hours to ascend the five locks as they all needed filling. We owe Derek a big favour, sadly they progressed immediately at the top. Thank You Derek.
We moored on the pontoons at the top of the Fort Augustus flight.
After a good shower and change we headed out into town for tea.
Where has everyone gone.
We ate at The Bothy near the swing bridge. Old style pub grub.
Later we came across the Black Rock Ceilidh Band in the Richmond Hotel. The pub was full behind me. The sax player had been playing an Accordian.
We met a Californian couple who were walking the ‘Great Glen Way’, which is 79 miles of paths along the canal. We saw many cyclists, motorhomes, caravans along the way. The A82 also runs the length of the canal.
Beautifully still evening. View from the top of the locks.
Fort Augustus pontoon mooring.
We stayed here for two nights. The day after I walked around town while Mick watched the British Grand Prix. Excellent ice creams.
Bagpiper. Love or Hate?
15th July – Monday - To Fort William
We set off at 0900 and the first lock had a picture perfect cottage and a lock-keeper who originated from our home town. He recognised our accents.
There were two locks and a swing bridge before Lock Oich, which was beautiful.
Small Island in Loch Oich, just to keep us on our toes.
The depth and clarity of the reflections are amazing.
Swing bridge at the end of Loch Oich.
Then the majesty of Loch Lochy. Just when you think it can’t get better.
Loch Lochy.
Our first glimpse of Ben Nevis.
Two locks and two swing bridges at the end of Loch Lochy leading to Fort William along a pretty stretch of canal.
We moored at the top of Neptune’s Staircase on pontoons with views of Ben Nevis.
16th July – Tuesday – Neptune’s Staircase
Neptune’s Staircase is the last flight of locks in the Caledonian canal if you are travelling East to West. It is a set of 9 locks with significant drops.
As seen on our navigation system.
We were advised that the first descent would be around 08.00. The lock gates were opened by Andrew and Gillian the lock-keepers and we entered promptly with David and Sarah on Mollymawk, who we had entered the canal with 6 days ago. There was supposed to be 4 boats going down, but the others did not appear despite 3 radio calls from Gillian. Good news for us as it will be quicker and easier with just two boats.
Top of Neptune’s Staircase.
See the water mark on the walls of the lock.
David and Sarah on Mollymawk.
A blissfully uneventful one hour and 15 minutes later we were at the bottom, again walking Fleur through the gates with engine assistance. We decided to stay in the Seaport Basin marina for the night.
In the afternoon we caught the N47 bus into Fort William from the bus stop on the road above the marina. Corpach has a train station and occasional steam trains. Sadly we had missed todays train. Only £6.80 return for two on the bus. There is great speculation at present, what Lewis Hamilton does between Grand Prix. I am happy to report he is driving a bus in Fort William!
Fleur in Corpach Basin marina with Ben Nevis in the background.
There is a Coop on the main road above the marina. The carpark seems to attract lots of visitors. Walkers, Cyclists, dog walkers, dog walking groups, motorhomes, people just cruising around to see what boats are in.
Beware the marina water level went down two feet while we were out, thank goodness we had some slack in the ropes, Mick had to alter the ropes of the boat next door.
The Caledonian canal is a great trip no matter which mode of travel you take.
Next stop Oban after a trying day.