Early June 2015 – Gouda to Haarlem

27th May – Wednesday

It seems so easy to say, Gouda to Haarlem, but it was a long and tiring day.  We started at 10.00 and arrived at 18.30, but during those 8 and a half hours we negotiated 19 bridges.

Typical bridge Mooring site.  Before the bridges there are places where you can moor your boat whilst you wait for the bridge to open.  They consist of wooden piles with heavy duty planks between, most also have cleats for the ropes on the planks.  You will see they are not jetties and are not recommended to walk on.  Some have an intercom system to the bridge keeper, but you have to have positioned your boat correctly in order to press the button.  The process of mooring and untying, looses its appeal after the 3rd bridge.  However, it is not always necessary to moor up.  If you are going through a small town and there are a number of boats in convoy, the bridge keepers appear to synchronise and open the bridges as you approach.  Some of the larger bridges however have very strict timed openings and you have to wait (no time-fudging here).

By big bridges we are talking this type (above).  The railway bridge exiting Gouda and the first of the day, hence why we departed at 10.00 as this bridge opens at 10.27 precisely.  It is a railway bridge which lifts in the middle followed by a swinging road bridge.  Crikey!!  A train crossed 30 seconds before the bridge lifted and another soon after we exited.

I won’t bore you with all the bridges of the day but these are some of the more interesting ones.

From a distance we thought this looked like an old coal mine, the bridge is raised on steel wires.

 

These are the nodding dog ones, which look like oil wells (on Southfork).

Double road bridge.  These really make you get you skates on as they open for traffic one way and then the other and they close very quickly after the last boat passes.

Pizza Restaurant Barge, with full sized clay oven on the back.

The picture above gives an idea of the width of the canal through small towns.  Approx 30 metres, making you feel like you could almost touch the houses and businesses on each side.  Eg. Lisse.

Between bridges there was some lovely country side and masses of market gardening, with expansive greenhouses.  We saw a number of small ferries near the towns too, something else to watch out for.

We chose not to enter Haarlem town itself that night as the thought of more bridges was too much.  We stopped at the Haarlemsche Jachthaven for one night.

Info. At only 12 Euros there is little margin for complaint and the harbour master came to collect the money after his dinner.  There are no facilities except what can only be described as a workman’s toilet.

28th May – Thursday – Into Haarlem Town.

After a few false starts trying to telephone and VHF Radio the bridge controller we were allowed through the first bridge at 09.00.  There is nowhere to moor up outside the bridge so we went in circles for a while.  There are convoys which run through Haarlem throughout the day and we managed to go the opposite way when the first convoy passed.  It was then a waiting game for the next bridge until we realised that the bridge keeper was pedalling from bridge to bridge and entering his hut to open the bridges.

This is a modern bridge-keepers hut on the 3rd bridge.

He was then the same person how asked us if we were staying and directed us to a mooring in Gravestenenbrug, under the trees near the black and white windmill.

The boat moored under the trees in Haarlem, 5 minutes walk from the centre.

Info:  Haarlem Gravestenenbrug is located between the 3rd and 4th Bridges.  There is a toll to pay for passing through town, but if you stay for one night or more the charge is waived.  As the cost is the same price as one nights stay we would highly recommend a stay.  We liked it so much we stayed for 6 nights, as a week was half the price of 7 individual nights and therefore 6 nights cost only 58 Euros.  There are 2 Albert Heijn supermarkets and another called Voram, a short walk up river.  There is free town wifi in the main square, also Macdonald’s and the Apple store.

The showers are to be found across the 4th swing bridge, then turn first left and walk almost to the windwill.  There is a small ‘Douches’ sign on the white door.  It costs 1 Euro for a token to enter the showers, which have two cubicles with shower and toilet.  The shower costs 50cents but lasts for 12 minutes (which is indicated on the coin machine).  This and a lack of wifi are the only draw backs to this location.

The harbour masters office is located just after the 5th bridge in a porta-cabin.  They were very helpful and gave us guides in English and a map.

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Haarlem itself makes up for any inconvenience with conveniences.  Speaking of which, in Holland a visit to the loo costs 50cents and most restaurants are fine about it.  Macdonalds is only 30cents, as are some larger stores, expect to pay.

The town square on a non-market day.

The town square on market day.  Saturdays and a small market on Mondays.

Mick with our Turkish Pizzas.  Very thin pizza bases filled with chicken or doner meat and salad and sauces.  The stall owner cleverly positions bench seats and a table next to the stall for you to eat your pizza and catch his next customer.  Highly recommended.

The market was lovely and had stalls for all tastes including an English Pie stall (we didn’t for the record).  The town square is buzzing and the shops are concentrated along a couple of streets, but there are some small streets which are gems and fun to find.

We would highly recommend a stay in Haarlem, don’t just rush through, it has a lovely laid back feel to it.

Finally Mick is having trouble with the local transport, or bicycles to be more precise, if we end this trip without either of us being hit by a bike I will be surprised. At one point he was cornered by a couple of jay-walking pensioners, a bike and a disability scooter.  We have had close calls with a unicycle, a family bike with 3 children on board, motor-scooters, which travel in cycle lanes, and numerous other bikes of various shapes and sizes. They are surprisingly fast and creep up silently behind you then frighten the living daylights out of you with their very loud bells.

3rd June – Wednesday

We moved to Haarlemsche jacht club for better wifi so that I could watch the centenary AGM of the WI on a live webcast.

The flag I made for the centenary out of a WI tea-towel, it was a substantial item and thudded more than fluttered.

Mid Webcast.

Haarlemsche Jacht club is a little bit of paradise, more of which later, we may be here for some time.

Late May 2015 – Willemstad, Dordrecht and Gouda

20th May – Willemstad

We managed to park between the ‘box’ posts successfully here.  I climbed across to the boat next door and attached the bow lines from the jetty.

Willemstad to another very pretty town, which is set in a star shaped moat and city wall.  The windmill is picture perfect and on our first morning it started working.  I could not have been more pleased if Windy Miller himself had walked out, as we could watch it from the boat.  Less romantically you can pay 55 Euros for lunch and a tour, which is why, I suspect, it was working.

The town harbour is effectively a different marina to the one we stayed in, which is located behind the windmill. 

Info:  Marina was 19 Euros per night with free electricity, wifi, water and facilities (which were in a floating barge and of a high standard).  There is a ‘Jumbo’ supermarket on the road leading from the windmill and a bakery at the end of the same road.  The chandlers on the harbour-side was very high quality with everything you could possibly require.  The garage on the main street was accommodating to boaters with trolleys and diesel cans as there is no diesel pump in the marina.  2 euro coin is required for a trolley.

22nd May – To Dordrecht

Bifurcation Buoy.

We really like these red and green horizontal striped spherical buoys, used when two buoyed channels intersect.

11:00 am start for the 14 mile journey.  Timed for the railway bridge at Dordrecht ‘Spoorhelbrug’. 

View from the waiting pontoon before the Railway bridge.

The railway bridge has very strict timed openings which were 12 minutes past the hour and it closes at 20 minutes past.  So all the small vessels wishing to pass through wait on a pontoon located up a small channel on the right of the main channel, where industrial barges also moor up opposite.

On the hour the charge for the bridge started and two very large barges arrived to go through too.  The railway section rises to the top of the structure and we all went through, big guys first. 

Dordrecht church from the canal.

We had to dodge between two large barges to gain access through the Boombrug bridge into the marina.  The first two marinas we tried were full so this was third time lucky.  Arrived at 15.30 and paid the lady quickly, as she was off home.

Info:  No info to provide regarding the marina in Dordrecht as the only facility was electricity.  On the positive side it only cost 14 euros for the night.  It is more a small inner city canal than a marina, but there were security gates to access the pontoons.  Local people burned the midnight oil in the houses nearby as it was Friday night.  There is an Albert Heijn supermarket in the new shopping plaza, which is behind the V&D store from the first square you find from the marina.  It took some finding. 

The pontoon we were allocated was meant for a much larger boat.  The very large posts were 5 metres further out into the canal than the end of the boat.  Fortunately there were pontoons also.  With a little help from our neighbours we managed to hook on the bow line and then reverse the boat to the large posts in order to be able to get a rope on them.

Dordrecht is billed as one of the oldest towns in Holland.  The big church in the picture was closed.  The streets where alive with interesting characters, who gave the city an edgy feel.  There are some really interesting antiques shops, and they were using many of the old empty church meeting halls as vintage outlets too.  The market was near the new precinct, Market day must be Friday as they were packing up when we found it.    We had a really good look around whilst trying to find the supermarket so did not feel the need to stay another day.

23rd May – Saturday – To Gouda

We left Dordrecht at 09.30 after calling the operator to open the BoomBrug bridge.  We both did a double take, as just after we joined the main channel we saw an Ark. 

Dordrecht Ark.  Apparently the second and larger of two built by a Dutch millionaire after having a flood dream.  It’s worth a google, as my picture does not do it justice.

Road Bridge 1 mile after Dordrecht, ‘Verkeersbrug’ at the 10.15 opening. 

Located just after the road bridge Oceanco yacht builders with super-yacht ‘Vibrant Curiosity’ in for a refit.

The weather was cloudy and misty and later in the morning we were drenched and needed full wet weather gear.  Two coats, two tops and large wet weather trousers, and soaked.

We did not fancy another night in Dordrecht and this is the price you pay.

18 miles to Gouda arrived at 14.45.  The first canal from Dordrecht was quite commercial, industrial units lined the canal banks. 

Rotterdam in the distance.

However the second half of the journey was along a smaller section of canal with houses on either side, most of which had a mooring attached (as below).

Some of the houses had davits or slipways to lower their vessels into the water from the gardens.  This section was more like the canal journey we were expecting after the wide busy channels.

The next lock ‘Stormvloedkering’ is a storm defence sluis, which opens approx every 20 minutes if there are boats requiring entry.  Again an impressive piece of engineering for the flood defences of the country.

The final obstacle of the day was a small lock prior to entering Gouda.  Then a short trip to the Gouda Marina which is located in a very small canal just outside town between a car wash and a B&Q (Praxis) and retail park.  People tend of avoid the town centre marina as there are 3 bridges to negotiate and this marina is only 20 minutes walk into the town centre.

Info: Gouda Marina costs 14.20 euros per night.  Free water and electricity and 0.50 cent for a shower, which is housed in the floating club house.  (The mirror is located behind the club house door with the plug socket in the corridor between the loos).  Basic but very clean.  Market day is Saturday, the famous Gouda Cheese markets are on a Thursday, but not every Thursday. 

The marina is a members club and is a little reminiscent of Steptoe’s Yard, and the club members have sheds with tools, deck chairs and all the necessary items to keep the club running.  The members take turns to be Harbour Master and everyone is very friendly and welcoming.  We received a tourist pack in English and a map of the town.  Lidl is on the map supplied only 10 minutes walk away.  There is an Albert Heijn in the town square (well hidden). 

Gouda has an impressive town centre, with many beautiful buildings.  A circular canal system surrounds the town centre and there are numerous small canals and alleyways to explore.

Town Hall in the main square.  Available for weddings.  At 2 minutes past the hour and half hour small characters appear on the right of the building as the clock chimes.

Gouda cheese shop.

Entrance to the museum.  There are many ornate doorways to see as you walk around

Historic Harbour filled with old traditional barges.

Sunday breakfast special treat after days of Muesli.

We are going to stay here for a few days, it has a nice feel to it.

Mid May 2015 – Middelberg, Veere and Willemstad

14th May – Thursday – To Middelberg

The trip from Vlissingen to Middelberg is only 5 miles, however, there are 5 bridges to negotiate.  The journey took almost 3 hours (10.45 to 13.30).

The bridges tend of be lifting bridges or swing bridges.

The lifting bridge ‘Scroubrug’, where you can see a number of boats rafted up at waiting posts, which seem to be designed to take anything from a dingy to a tanker, used to wait prior to going under as the bridge rises.  The post will sometimes have cleats and other times you have to hook your rope around the large wooden post.

The swing bridge ‘Brug Souburg’.  Here you can see boats passing in both directions on either side of the swing bridge.

The bridges are controlled by a traffic light system.  Red for Stop, Green for Go and Red and Green for ‘on you marks, get set, go’.  They don’t take any prisoners and if you are not quick enough the bridge goes down.  Some of the bridges and locks have intercom systems, which when pressed get an ‘OK’ from the controller, but no indication as to when they may open.

We saw people the previous day trying to go under the bridge at Vlissingen at Rush Hour and they waited quite a while.  There are opening times in the Part 1 & 2 handbooks, but they are written in fudge and bear little resemblance to reality.

As there was quite a large group of boats passing I thought that once we went under the first bridge then the next one would open a short while afterwards. But no, sometimes you can hang around, going in circles, back and forth, hoping the bridge will open, at other times it is worth rafting up as it may be a half hour wait, but there is absolutely no indication which scenario applies.  So plan in enough time for this passage, there is no point trying to do it in a hurry.

When we arrived in Middelberg we were asked to moor in a particular numbered berth on the side of the canal under some trees.  Thankfully there was an english boat there to help as it was the first time we had moored against piles in boxes.  (Two wooden posts in the water with the boat in between, facing the shore).  We went into the berth bow first and you have to hook a line over/around the pile to help stop the boat, then hook another line on the opposite post.  You then have to somehow get off the front of your boat and tether the bow to the shore to prevent the boat from moving in its berth.  Philip on ‘Delphine’ took the bow rope and secured us to the shore.  I am not quite ready from jumping off the bow of the boat.  (We did this better in Willemstad).

Mick was then looking at the engine, carrying out maintenance and I went for a wander.  As luck would have it, it was Ascension Day, and therefore a bank holiday, so there was a substantial market in the main square.

Veggies and strawberries were really cheap so I stocked up a bit.  The strawberry man sold only strawberries which became cheaper each time I passed to the point of no-refusal.

Info: Middelberg 21 euros per night including electricity, showers and water.  Recently updated excellent shower facilities are located across an ornate bridge from the harbour master’s office.  The moorings are a short 5 minute walk from the town centre.  There is a baker’s shop down Dwakstaai, directly behind the harbour office.  The largest super market ‘Albert Heinz’ is at the end of this street, approx 15 minutes walk.  They only take Dutch debit cards so take cash.  The regular market is held on a Thursday in the main square.

Two more days and two more markets, again due to the bank holidays.  On Friday there was a smaller flea market, but on Saturday there was an enormous flea market covering the whole square.

Mick was happy to find ‘Jos Boone’ a famous floating chandlery next to the marina.  Where he bought the ‘Staande Mastroute’ or Standing Mastroute book, which charts the Mast-Up routes through Holland which allow sailing boats to pass.

Mick also bought a bucket in town for the anchor chain, which is stored in the Anchor locker.  He then had to drill holes in the bottom to stop it filling with water, which flows through the locker from the decks in high seas or rain.

On Saturday we took the trolley for a good stock up at Albert Heinz and Mick bought oil from the next oil change, which was a bargain, at the shop called ‘Action’ inside the Albert Heinz shop.  I have to mention the sterling service giving by a young male till assistant in Albert Heinz who helped Mick set up the Dutch pay as you go Sim card we purchased in store, as the verbal instructions from the phone company were all in Dutch.

Philip from ‘Delphine’ came for a drink at 6.00pm.   He helped us again to move the boat, as the previous moorings owners were returning.  He gave us some good information as he has been here for several years.

There are some beautiful buildings in Middelberg and it is well worth a visit.  The building above is a Cinema!

17th May – Sunday – To Veere

So many people have told us how pretty Veere is that we could not pass by.

‘Sluis Veere’ is the lock outside Veere.

A short 8 mile trip, 10.30 to 12.00.

We moored up this time waiting for the lock to open.  As the lock opens everyone surges forward.  It is the small lock to the left, and there is a much larger lock on the right for larger vessels.

In small locks there tend to be ropes running horizontally along the lock wall to hook your lines through.  The lines are then held whilst the water level drops or rises so that you can adjust your lines accordingly.  Fenders need to be high so that the boat is not damaged on the side of the lock.  The lines are then easy to release on a short slip.  (Slip the rope to the end so that it can be quickly released).

Veere inner harbour.

Veerse Meer seen from the ramparts.

Veere inner harbour bridge.

Walking around on the second day we found this tunnel, dating from the Napoleonic period.

Tunnel Entrance

Inside the tunnel.

The tunnel from the outside, which we would never have guessed was a tunnel.  This lead via the ramparts to a hand operated ferry across the moat.  Yacht-master Bond managed to navigate the vessel to the other side by pulling the rope. 

Info:  The marina is located on the canal side and is a short walk to town.  Make sure you have provisions before coming to Veere.  There are no food shops except a cheese shop and an excellent bakery in the town square (which was oval).  The harbour master advised us that ‘This is a tourist town and if you need to eat, go to a restaurant’.  The night rate ranged from 18 to 22 euros, a deposit of 20 euros was required for a keyfob which activated the water supply, electric supply and shower supply all of which cost 75cents a time.  We used 6 euros worth in 3 days.  The toilets are located in metal porta-cabins on the shore, which are clean but basic.

Our love of Kebbelin has grown, it consists of small pieces of deep fried fish with a herby mayo sauce.  We intend to take a picture, but it never lasts long enough.  Will try harder.

The next two days were very windy so we had to stay put.  Veere is very lovely but a long lunch stop would be sufficient to see the sights.  Therefore walking, sewing, and maintenance.

20th May – Wednesday – To Willemstad

Marathon day to complete the 40 miles to Willemstad.  We had thought to stop at St Annaland, but arrived early so chose to continue.  09.30 – 18.30 could not start earlier as needed to retrieve deposit for keyfob from the Harbour master.

3 big locks to negotiate.  We almost had a mishap in the small boat channel of Veerse Meer and the depth sounder had a good testing.  The first lock was the Zankreeksluis from Veerse Meer to the Zandkreek.

Mick adjusting the lines in the first lock.  See the road bridge in the background.  The green slimey sides appear as the water goes down.

At the risk of stating the obvious this place is REALLY flat, only feet above the water in some places.  As someone who has only been to Amsterdam previously it is amazing how the water levels are managed and engineered to maintain this. 

Mick in the second lock ‘Krammersluizen’ from Oosterschelde to the Volkerak.  The lock had digital displays indicating the height of the bridge and the depth of the water.  The height of Fleur’s mast from the water to the top is 16.4 metres including the aerials.  The max height is 18.5 metres.

The 2 metre height difference seems small when viewed from the deck.

The other new experience for the day was the huge variation in types of shipping to the ones we are used to in the UK and France.  The inland waterways are littered with large fast moving, very low lying super barges, carrying everything from new cars to scrap, iron-ically.

Large barge with additional barge tethered to the front.  The control cabins at the back look like air traffic control towers.  They frequently have accommodation beneath and small cars and boats carried on deck for the crew.

Empty Car Transporter

Full Car Transporter, appropriately named ‘Titan’.

Needless to say in our rule book we keep well out of their way.

The last lock of the day was the Volkeraksluizen, from Volkerak to Hollandsch Deip, taking us to Willemstad.  The channels between the locks are well buoyed with large and small boat channels.  The depth of the water ranges from 3 to 15 metres and some of the channels are narrow considering the traffic.

The 2nd the 3rd locks both had small craft locks to one side (left in this case) and the large boat locks easily accommodated 4 of the huge barges.  Massive feats of engineering, giving surprisingly quick passage to these extraordinary vessels.

Willemstad is another recommended stop, which shows great promise.