Mid June 2021 - Conway to Caernarfon via Menai Strait

17th June – Thurs – Conwy to Caernarfon

An early 06.00 start to make the 26 miles to Caernarfon.  It is a bit less straight forward than usual, as we have to pick up a buoy near Bangor Pier and wait for exactly the right time to pass under the Menai Bridge via the infamous Swellies (turbulent water, if approached at anything other than slack water).  The Menai Strait is the body of water between Anglesey and Mainland Wales.

We had overcast skies and a chilly wind first thing.

We sailed around the back of Puffin Island.  Spoiler alert……there are no puffins!!!!!

Apparently the rats won that inter species battle.  Plenty of Guillemots and Cormorants though. 

We passed Beaumaris Castle and picked up a buoy opposite the Gazelle Hotel, near the end of Bangor Pier.

The sandbank demonstrates the need for care in this area.

Back at the helm.

View of Bangor Pier and Snowdonia from our buoy mooring.

Our lunch stop lasted from 10.30 to 14.00.  Time to negotiate the Swellies.  Like most things they are much less scary than legend proclaims when the weather is good and the Captain has timed it to perfection.  Two hours before High Water Liverpool.

So we followed the buoys and headed for the central span of the Menai Bridge.

The next marker in the pilot books is the Bungalow.

Then to the Boat House.

Pass the Swellie buoy to Starboard.

Line up the Transit Points under the Britannia Bridge.

Until we are abeam (next to) the Pyramid marker on the Port side.

Passing under the middle of the left hand arch of the Britannia Bridge.

Aiming towards Lord Nelson’s Statue until you reach the middle of the river.  And relax.

Disclaimer - These pictures are not for navigation purposes and full planning should take place prior to passing through the Menai Straits.

We meandered past Port Dinorwic.

Arriving at Caernarfon at 16.00.  26 miles in 10 hours, with a lunch stop.  Good first trip to blow off the Covid Cobwebs.

18th June – Friday

In search of an evening meal we walked around and chose the historic Black Boy Inn at random.  No booking required, queue and go.  Good pub grub followed.  In what was a larger pub on the inside than it was on the outside, we were seated randomly next to two guys on a golfing trip.  One turned out to be Steve Roberts, a work colleague we hadn’t seen for a good 15 years.  Another sliding doors moment.  Who next?

20th June – Sunday

Fathers Day lunch at the Old Court House, recommended by a local sailor.  Complete with live music from a Piano player.  First live music for a very long time.  Then a lovely walk south along the coastal path. 

21st June – Monday

Walked to the Segontium.  Ruins of a Roman Fort.  Last occupied by 1,000 troops in 400 AD.

Sadly the accompanying museum was closed, but there is a good timeline of the town upstairs in the tourist information centre, near the castle.

A large settlement built to protect Anglesey and its precious crops.

The swing bridge at the Slate Quay to enter the town harbour, as opposed to the Marina where we were moored.

Town square statue of Caernarfon's longest standing MP, 55 years, and Prime Minister David Lloyd George.  Not all residents are so reverential.

Caernarfon Castle.  We have visited inside the castle a few years ago.  It is currently undergoing extensive renovation work, so we thought we would leave it until the work is finished.

We enjoyed six days in Caernarfon. 

Sailors Info

Caernarfon Marina is a great stop over and place to spend a few days.  The town has a Morrisons and Asda supermarkets.  Everything is walkable.  There are coastal paths North and South.

Lots of good restaurants, pubs and bars.  Mr Fu’s was another good recommendation.

There is a chandlers on the harbourside near the footbridge.

The facilities are located on the South side of the marina.  They are unisex and quite new, but are sadly let down by the poor standard of cleaning.  More mop sloshing than scrubbing.

The harbourmaster was very accommodating and we really enjoyed our stay.  Free wifi and electricity included.

Next stop Milford Haven…..overnight!!!!

Conwy 2021

13th April 2020

We visited for the first time this year.  Fleur was fine.  Tiny amounts of mildew were found on items we hadn’t separated or brought into the open.  Like the sailing jackets, which were all brought home for a wash.

We put the sails back on, which had been serviced by Impact Marine in Carnforth.  They were a dream to deal with and we highly recommend them.  The new cushions I had made during the winter looked good too.  Over the next two days she was cleaned inside and out and the water pump seal was replaced.

It was just nice to be in a different location.

21st April 2020

Another 4 nights at the boat.  We brought back all the newly washed items from the last visit.

We had a grand day out in the van, driving all the way up the coast to Prestatyn.  Sooooo many caravan sites.  Rhyl, Abergele, Rhos on Sea and Colwyn Bay.

7th May 2020

Flying visit to deliver the new beds for the back cabin.  They were cluttering the house.

24th May to 4th June 2020

11 nights at the boat on a mini break.

We met up with Lynn and Jim of Full Circle and they made us a delicious homemade Tagine.  Such good company and great to meet up once again.

We had a great day out in the van travelling to Bangor and then circumnavigating Anglesey.  It is a very beautiful island and we had a beautiful weather for it. 

Another gift of a day at Bodnant Gardens. 

We had tried to time it, to see the Rhododendrons in full bloom. 

Not being gardeners we did not know that Bodnant is famous for its Laburnum Walk.  No, I didn’t know either and we nearly missed it.  But is was truly beautiful and worth seeking it out. 

The gardens are amazing and it is worth walking the full length to see it all.  The cafe service is famously slow, you have been warned.

On Sunday the 30th we went for our first ‘Just for pleasure’ sail in many years.  Out towards Puffin Island to give Fleur a shake down, and make sure everything was working.  It seemed strange to return to port at the end of the day.  We usually end up somewhere else.

And then another good day out in Llandudno before returning home.

You may now be thinking, this is not a sailing blog.  But I hope it demonstrates how frustrating the year has been.  We have been biding our time waiting for news on when we can visit Ireland.  We were happy to sail to Ireland, but not allowed. 

11th June 2020

We returned to the boat by train, determined this time that if we couldn’t go to Ireland we would start our summer trip.

Boris announced on the 14th that Ireland was still not on the green list, so we decided to set off.

Unfortunately after all this time, the weather had other ideas.  We finally left for Conwy on the 17th June.  Huzzah!

Winter 2020/21

We were hoping to visit Fleur during the winter months and take time to visit the local area in the van.

The Welsh First Minister had other ideas and locked down Wales in October.  On a Tuesday he announced his plans, so on Wednesday we scrambled to Conwy to put Fleur to bed for the winter, take down the sails and remove anything that was likely to go mouldy, or suffer during a prolonged period.  Things like leaving the cupboard doors open, leaving the curtains hanging free, moving stored items into the open, leaving the fridge open, taking home all perishables and anything edible.  Hoping we don’t forget anything.

Our neighbours Kevin and Shelley on ‘Dakota’ were kind enough to send us pictures periodically and another owner took videos.  We didn’t see her again until Mid April.

Much more importantly we haven’t seen our growing family in Ireland, which had a new addition in February.  Beautiful Amelia, joined her sister Evie, Laura and Damien.  Thank goodness for technology to help stay connected.  We miss them so much.

We filled the winter with lots of walking, with several individual friends then more as rules permitted.

I did an online embroidery course with Liz, Kay and Leslie, through Lancashire Adult Learning.  We learned so much from our tutor Shamim and importantly it gave us something to do between lessons, which was invaluable.

As usual we tried to help where we could, the repair shop continued and a new cooker meant more baking.  

But it was the chance to volunteer for the local vaccination centre, at our Health Centre, organised by the local Rotary Clubs, which makes us most proud and more importantly most humble.  Our first shift was on the 15th Jan and our last weekly shift was on the 13th of May.  The week our Health Centre decided they had delivered to the majority of the community and needed to re-start normal operations.  Jenni and Bill from Rotary deserve special mention for their organisational abilities and dogged determination to succeed.  I always say ‘No such thing as a selfless act’.  It gave us a date in the diary, and such joy, to be a small part of a great team effort.

Some of the Rotary and volunteers on the last day at the Health Centre.

The work continues at the pop-up venues.

Mid Sept 2020 – Conwy Part 2 and Home

9th September – Wednesday

On the harbourside in Conwy, there has to be at least one shot of The Smallest House in Great Britain.  It is only £1 to have a look in when the lady is there, dressed in traditional clothes, but there is always a queue.  Maybe next time.

We went shopping twice on consecutive days with the trolley, once for food and a second trip for booze.  ‘Clank, Clank, Clank, goes the trolley’ as the old song goes.

11th Sept – Friday

Jim and Lynn of yacht ‘Full Circle’, who we met in Harwich, and who took us to Ipswich (which was very successful as we stayed 3 years) live nearby and invited us for tea and to stay overnight.

They collected us from the Marina and we went to a micro brewery while the takeaway was cooking then onto theirs for a good catch up and a look at their beautiful new home.

12th Sept – Saturday – Magical Mystery Tour 

Jim cooked us a Full Welsh Breakfast and we set off in the car on a blue sky day.  Through Port Eirias on the pretty seafront and onto Llandudno, our first port of call was Port Dinorwic where ‘Full Circle’ is moored.  She is the same type of boat as Fleur, which is what brought us together to start with. 

The lock at Port Dinorwic

The pretty harbour, reminiscent of Dutch harbours.

We walked the length of the marina to the banks of the Menai Straits and sat outside the Garddfon Inn with our drinks.  It feels like you can touch Anglesey from here.  There was a small boat race from the yacht club, which kept us amused with their ducking and diving.

There was also an aerofoil windsurfer making the most of the breeze, sadly to quick to photograph but amazing to watch.  They appear to defy gravity.

Our tour then continued for the most beautiful couple of hours up the Llanbaris Pass, through the Snowdonia National Park, Capel Curig, Betws-y-Coed, Llanrwst and back to Conwy.  WOW.  We need to come back with the car and thoroughly explore around here, it is stunning.

On arrival back at the marina, the Marina Open day was in full swing and we managed to snaffle four pulled pork buns and a few drinks from the ‘Boatfolk’ event.  A nice ending to a terrific day, thanks to Jim and Lynn.

13th Sept – Sunday – Conwy Castle

After such a great day it would have been nice to put our feet up, but due to current restrictions we had booked a tour of Conwy Castle online in advance £8.80 each. 

Top Tip:  If you don’t have time to visit the castle, walking the town walls is free.  The entrances are located around the walls, in some places they are quite well hidden.  We felt too guilty to even try beforehand, but realised after we completed the castle tour. 

One of the very many pictures we took of the castle, from the Town Walls.

 

We had a 2.00pm time slot and arrived at 1.45, thankfully, as the queue was growing, and was even longer due to social distancing.  We soon realised that about half the people had not booked 24 hours in advance, so they were turned away.  The person on the door had a printed list to tick off the ticket holders.

There is a steepish slope and stairs to enter the Castle.

A sculpture made from roof beams.  This guy meets you at the door.

Starting on the ground level you get a real sense of the scale of the castle.  Small steep spiral staircases take you to each of the 3 levels.  Once at the top the views are stunning.

From the top of the castle overlooking the River Conwy.

The Three Bridges.

Centre - The 1826 Chain Suspension Bridge, designed by Thomas Telford, which served for 130 years.

Right - The 1848 Tubular Bridge developed by Robert Stephenson, the first ever tubular bridge, note the gap in the roof for the steam from the steam trains to escape.

Far Left – The 1958 single arch steel road bridge, faced with stone, built to accommodate modern demand.

Beneath the water – The 1991 Immersed Tube tunnel, The North Wales Expressway.  A prefabricated tube, floated and sunk into the river bed, the first in the UK.

High level view looking into the castle, showing all the different levels and angles.

Mick on the Town Walls.  The walls give you a great view of the town within the walls and how it is all tightly packed in.

Towards the top of the town, the wall walk gets very steep and high.

The wall goes all way from the castle to meet the river at the far side, where the final exit staircase is.

As I said previously the castle is difficult to photograph due to the angle of the sun, this was in late afternoon, showing the river moorings.

I could not resist a picture of the river from the bridge, showing the HUGE sandbank in the middle at low water, sailors beware.

We ended the day at Johnny Dough’s Pizza place, as recommended by Lynn, excellent.

14th Sept – Monday

Mick serviced the Eberspacher (hot air heating system).

We then walked to Deganwy, which we can see from our Marina.  Through town, over the bridge and along the river path to Deganwy Spa Hotel and Marina.  All the shops were closed, so we walked all the way back to town and stopped for a pint at the Liverpool Arms with a cheeky pasty from the bakery.

15th Sept – Tuesday

Girls Day Out.  Lynn collected me and we went to Abakhan at Mostyn, near Rhyl.  It is a fabric and craft emporium of the highest order, with a great café.  Welsh Rarebit for lunch.  Lynn got what she went for, I got some sparkly blue fabric and wool for a cardigan for Evie. 

We then progressed to the ‘Tweedmill’ which is not a tweedmill but a shopping experience par excellence.  Nice grey jumper for me and new shoes and clothes for Lynn.  They sell Lemon buns here too in their café.  What a lovely day, whizzing around chatting and shopping.  Very much appreciated, thank you Lynn.

The next 6 days flew by.  Mostly eating.

The Popty Bakery in town is superb.  Lynn recommended the Lemon Buns.  Sweet bread bun with lots of custard and a tangy lemony icing.

Feet up with my knitting, tea and a bun.

Also many walks in Bodlondeb Woods nearby, Fish and Chips by the harbour (from The Galleon Chippy), Dinner at the Mulberry Pub and Restaurant in the Marina, walk on the beach in the evening, Mick helped a neighbour to get up his mast, more Johnny Doughs Pizza and our last night sitting outside the Mulberry at Sunset with a Wine and a Beer.

21st Sept – Monday – Train Home

We walked to the station with the trusty trolley and took the 12.40 train from Llandudno Junction.  Conwy Station is currently closed due to the virus.

Two changes at Chester and Manchester Victoria got us home by 16.30.  £58 for 2 with a two together rail card.  Because we had to use more than one train operator, the discounts are not as large as usual.  At present, don’t forget to take sandwiches and drinks as there are no refreshment outlets open on any of the stations.

Amusing Signage Continued…

Tipio is a perfect word for Fly-Tipping.

The boat above is called ‘Ship Faced’, raises a few eyebrows with the coast guard when calling for a radio check according to the owners.

Sailors Info: Conwy Marina

The marina is much improved since Mick’s last visit.  New Office, facilities, Shops and The Mulberry Pub and Restaurant (named after the Mulberry harbours which were built here during WW2).

The tidal variation can be over 7 metres.

The facilities are the best we have seen since Lymington.  Vanity units in the ladies and sockets for hairdryers.  Washers and Dryers £3 each.  Wifi.  Electric by metered card. On site shop for papers and sundries.

Riverside walk into town takes 20 minutes, shorter via the road.  Lidl is a 40 minute walk, but brand new, Tesco further, but there is a Spar in town and many bakeries.

We were particularly impressed that a Deep Clean of the facilities takes places regularly at present.

And finally…I cannot believe we could have three such beautiful weeks of weather in North Wales in September.  John Dobson told us it was going to be nice and he was right.

We are thoroughly enjoying Conwy, the marina is friendly and well run and our neighbours have been welcoming with an active Facebook group.  Fleur is staying in Conwy for the winter.  We are hoping to visit her often and explore the area.

We count ourselves fortunate to have had the opportunity to have 2 months away this year.  About a third of our normal trip but still a privilege in these strange times.

Stay Safe everyone, thanks for reading.