13th-14th May–Tues/Wed - Arklow to Milford Haven

 

There will be 2 versions of this section.  One sailors technical version and one emotional wreck version.

14th May - Arklow to Milford Haven MJB

This passage goes right across St Georges Channel between Ireland and The UK mainland. The Atlantic Ocean rushes into and out of this relatively small gap with quite some vigour so the currents (especially at spring tides) are strong although predictable.

Between Arklow and Milford Haven is a group of rocks and islands called the Smalls and an island named Grassholm.  You can go either, west of the Smalls or east of Grassholm, between it and the island of Skomer.  The current flows very quickly here in either a northerly or southerly direction and is so strong that if we attempted this part of the passage at the wrong time we could end up going backwards.

The purpose of the introduction is to try and describe the need for a good passage plan, which is a plan that takes all known issues into account, the weather, tide, boat, crew, destination and alternatives, in case any issues occur. Key to the passage was arriving at Grassholm at the right time for the tide to assist us, in order to arrive at Milford Haven at first light.

We left at 13:30 into a fine afternoon with a weather forecast of N N/W 3 or 4.  We contacted Milford Haven Coastguard with details of our plan and intended route, which they log.  In order to meet our schedule we needed to maintain an average speed of 5 knots over the ground, so we used both the engine and mainsail.  As the sea had been churned up in the previous few days it was swelly and gives a rolling motion to our boat as it has quite a flat bottom.  We had waypoints programmed into the chart-plotter (boat GPS) which directed us to various points towards our destination.  We also had ETAs for each leg to ensure we hit the tides at the correct time.  Regular plots of our position on the chart and a visual indication of our track allows corrections and modifications to our course.

A schedule of hourly checks now begins:-

Check the engine cooling system

Check the alternator charging system

Check the navigation lights

Check the bilges for water

Plot our position on the chart

and every three hours check the weather forecast.

One of, if not the worst, conditions when sailing is fatigue or tiredness.  If you are too tired you cannot think straight and you make mistakes.  When sailing for over 5 or 6 hours you need to have a watch system in order to rest and recover.  Ann-Marie understands this and on this trip needed to take overall control for three 2 hour watches (two of them in darkness) in order to let me sleep.

During the second of her watches Ann-Marie started to feel sick and found it difficult to sleep in the cabin, she came up on deck and rested there. She was very cold so blankets were used and she finally managed to nod off.  Ann-Marie stood all 3 watches allowing me to get some sleep which allowed me to be fresh for the final legs of the journey and the navigation through the port of Milford haven.

BIG LESSON

Because we set off in good weather Ann-Marie did not take any seasickness pills nor put on extra clothing under her sailing attire.

The other requirement for sailing any length of time is nourishment, food and warm drinks.  We have a flask to make warm drinks easily available when on solo watch and a fresh cup of tea is prepared when a new watch starts.  Food on this trip was going to be hot chilli, but Ann-Marie didn’t fancy it and so backup pre-made sandwiches were consumed along with Crisps, Mars Bars, Ginger biscuits, and lots of humbugs.  Any one who knows me understands that keeping nourished has never been one of my problems.

We arrived off Grassholme with the tide and rushed through at 9.8 knots just as planned and arrived at the approaches to Milford Haven just before dawn.  The navigation into the port is straightforward and controlled by the port over the radio.  Once permission to enter was obtained we proceeded up the West channel and arrived at the marina at just after 5.00am.

We contacted the coastguard by radio to inform him of our safe arrival, filled in the logbook, backed up the computers, checked the engine oil water and belts, ate the remaining sandwiches, and went to bed.

14th May – Wed - Arklow to Milford Haven  - AMP

In preparation I had made a Pressure Cooker Chilli and had cooled it and put it into Tupperware to be used for 2 meals during the crossing.  How Naive!

We set off at 13.30 for the overnight trip to Milford Haven.  I have only made a few overnight trips before and was not massively keen on them.  All started well as the weather was Mediterranean and the first 7 hours passed pleasantly enough, we had corned beef and Branston tea cakes (first mistake).  The sea was swelly due to the recent unsettled weather and the coarse we were taking and the state of the tide, so the boat had been rolling for quite a few hours but it was endurable.  Mick had been for a sleep and insisted I go for one too as we were going through the night and I would need to stand watch while he slept and vice versa.  You sleep in the centre cabin during a trip as the bed is too near to the engine and you would never sleep, also you can keep and eye on the instruments and be available if assistance is required.

I had been downstairs for maybe half and hour when I became incredibly nauseous.  I have not been physically seasick for 14 years and was quite determined to control it.  Sometimes it is uncontrollable.  An irresistible urge to go to the loo, then I surfaced on deck after much deep breathing.  I was then sick into the washing up bowl, very neatly apparently, strange compliment.  I then stayed on deck for the following 8 hours.  Trips to the loo are difficult as we wear so many layers of clothes but have to be made.

I stood watch alone during this time twice.  Approximately 21.30 till 23.00 and again 01.00 to 03.00.  The auto-helm was steering so I was basically a lookout, checking the coarse regularly.  Fortunately it was not raining and I could stand in the cockpit and sit there too.  You have to be tied on to the boat for safety at night, at first I thought it was like a dog lead, but soon grew to love the secure feeling it provided.  The harness is secured to a solid item in the cockpit and a thick strap with carabineers is secured to your life jacket and the boat.

I felt so very sick during these periods and tried to distract myself firstly by counting to 100 in French, but kept getting stuck at 60.  Then I tried singing.  The only songs I know all way through are Jerusalem (thanks W.I.), Yesterday and Edelweiss.  I was stood looking out over the spray hood, in the pitch dark, while the boat rolled from side to side, singing Jerusalem with tears streaming down my face.  It is an emotional song for me but after the 10th rendition I got a grip.  Many versions of the other songs and more French got me through, along with renditions of ‘Albert and the Lion’.

After being sick I was incredible cold and Mick got me a blanket.  Low point of the night came when my blanket slipped off and landed in the still slightly sickie Washing Up bowl.  I managed to rescue it quickly and Mick rinsed and wrung it.

The moon was full, which would normally help.  It only served to make me realise how much the boat was pitching from side to side as it dipped and rose 45 degrees in the sky.  Obviously it was not dipping we were rolling.  The sea looked like angry black oil tossing us around.  This was worst during the passage between two islands when the tide was with us and we were making almost 10 knots over the ground (normally we do 5).  Although we were going quickly we were also rolling quickly.

During Micks watch I somehow managed to fall asleep curled up in the corner of the cockpit.  During the night we took the seasick pills and these did help for the last few hours.

Milford Haven is a huge Gas and Oil port.  Navigation lights at night are Red and Green for Port and Starboard, which means the boat passes with the red buoys to the left and the green to the right when entering the harbour (vice versa when leaving).  At night it is virtually impossible to tell the difference in distance of one buoy compared to another.  They are marked on charts which indicate the occulting (flashing) times.  So 2f10 means the buoy will flash twice every ten seconds.  Approaching Milford Haven was a little like a 70s disco.  I did not have a clue.  Mick however was on full brain power and steered us slowly and safely through the mass of lights.  Milford Haven was quite exciting as there are massive tankers on either side of the estuary being loaded and unloaded.  It is amazing that all this activity occurs just so that we can make a brew and go to Tesco in our cars.  (Big thanks to these people).

There were many others lights during the night watches too.  Some from the islands, some from fishing boats and some from the shore.  There were 2 sets of 6 bright red lights which we saw for at least a third of the whole journey.  At first I thought they were fishing boats, but they never got any closer.  They turned out to be huge lights, 3 on each tower/chimney on an oil refinery at Milford Haven.  We eventually passed them at 4.30am.  Shame they are not marked on the navigation maps.  We arrived through the large lock which leads to the marina at first light. 

While this sounds dramatic, at no time did I feel in danger and realise these crossings have to be made.  I also fully realise I had to stand my watch and did not complain.  The weather was forecast WNW 3 or 4 (no more than 15 knots of wind) so we could not have chosen a ‘calmer’ or safer time to do this either.  You may think ‘Why did I not go and find warmer clothes or more blankets?  The problem was the thought of going down into the cabin was so acute I could not make myself go and for the same reason i did not ask Mick to either.

No Chilli was consumed.

We ate our Ham sandwiches on arrival for breakfast.  Mick was buzzing from the challenge so not immediately sleepy.  We slept from 6.00amd till 12.00 noon.  A bit like jetlag you need to get up so that you can sleep the following night.  We had Chilli for lunch and then again for Dinner the next day.

Lessons learned.

No Corned Beef Sandwiches for a while.

Keep yourselves warm.  Pre-prepare warm things which are stored close to hand.  Hot water bottle.

Think of some type of entertainment to pass the time.

Do not try to sleep downstairs when it is too rough.

Sickness goes quite quickly once under control.  Must take Seasickness pills earlier even when the sea is calm.

AM to herself – must pay more attention to the route prior to trip.

AM - Full understanding that watches have to be stood no matter how you are feeling.

Fleur on G pontoon.