31st May/1st June – Sat/Sun – Falmouth to Aber Wrac’h, France Overnight

We set sail for France at 10.30am on a flat calm sunny day.  This was a little sooner than we had planned, it is 105 miles, so 3 times further than your average Channel crossing.  We were fully expecting to go to the Channel Islands but having been delayed in Howth (Dublin) and Padstow we made the decision to go to France as we had a weather window which would allow for destination changes if required.

The wind got up to approx. 15-20 knots from 17.00 to 23.00 and the boat was much more roly during this time.  The boat rolls due to the tides going across us and so there was a period where the journey was not too comfortable.  I was not sick this time but felt pretty weary for about half of the crossing.  Again we had a hot meal on standby but neither of us managed it.  The sandwiches were consumed mostly on arrival.  Mick slept 22.00 to midnight and I slept 00.30 to 03.00, then Mick slept again 04.00 to 06.00.  There was a new crescent moon, so no added moonlight, but that meant we were able to see thousands of stars in the pitch black night.

Approximately two thirds of the way across we sailed through the shipping channels.

See below a screen snapshot of the Electronic Mapping system, which Mick uses to plot the course, and also shows other ships in the area on the AIS system.  I think most people will be quite surprised at the number of ships to be encountered in the middle of the night.  Each one of the ships is displayed as a triangle and the jagged circle appears, and alarms, if a ship is within a pre-defined distance from our boat.  Hovering the mouse over a ship displays its name, what type of ship it is, Cargo or Passenger, its tonnage and destination.  It is really fascinating.

 

We raised our French courtesy flag just off the coastline and sang a warbling/humming version of L’ Marseilles for added gravitas.

One of the things I am getting to grips with in this longer distance sailing world is the fact that you plan a 21 hour passage with major consideration to the weather and the tides.  The crew however, have to rest as much as they can beforehand and then sleep as and when during the trip.  I mention sleep again, as for this leg it was really important that Mick was on full power on arrival.

Aber Wrac’h is a small fishing town which in the last 20 years has increased the size of the marina and visitors pontoons to accommodate passing sailors.  It puzzles me that so many sailors take this option, as there are literally hundreds of Rocks and Small Islands on the coast line when entering the harbour which is situated about 5km up the river surrounded by more rocks.

It is used because it has all weather access at all states of the tide.  It is though, still quite a challenge.  There are very large lighthouses (always a big clue) on the headland which guide you in, one of which flashes every 5 seconds.  The passage planning books (in this case ‘The Shell Channel Pilot’ by Tom Cunliffe) give clear instructions and pilotage.  The channel is well marked with Large Buoys but several changes of course are required as there are rocks at each side.  Did I mention the Rocks? 

 

Just to add to the anxiety a mist had settled on the mouth of the river.  There was also a large number of small, pedlo/canoe type fishing craft making their way out to sea.  (We found out later this was a Canoe-Fishing Competition – lucky us!!).  It was hard enough being tired and anxious about hitting rocks, then having the added tension of not squashing small craft with our boat.

It may be worth googling Aber Wrac’h on google maps to see the number of rocks and small islands around the entrance.

Arrived in Aber Wrac’h at 08.00, tired but jubilant at having arrived safely en France.

Whilst tired we had a go at putting together suitable French phrases to visit the Harbourmaster and pay for the mooring, as they did not open until 09.00am.  I attempted some courtesy’s but the lady spoke perfect English, so no more attempt was required.  We returned to the boat and slept until the afternoon.  Had a walk around the small village and retired to eat the Lasagne we had brought, watched some French TV and back to sleep.

2nd June – Sunday

Walked to Landeda which is the town most local to Aber Wrac’h.  We think they may have the same Mayor as the other local larger town of Lanellis is not mentioned anywhere on any signposts.  20 minute walk to Landeda to find a few shops, mostly closed as it was Monday.  Then saw a signpost for Lanellis or rather Aldi and Briochmat (? B&Q).  Another 50 minute walk on a busy roadside to get to Lanellis.  The secret town was more open and about 4 times the size of Landeda.

We found a ‘Casino’ supermarche, which on first appearance looked derelict but on entering was comprehensively stocked.  We bought Pork Escalopes for tea and some bread and pate.

We then found a bench in the town square and ate the pate and bread, using fingers for pate spreading, sipping fruit juice and feeling like Kings.  Very happy.

Local, very clean amenities meant clean hands for our journey back, a walk back much improved and hastened by our sense of wellbeing and fill of pate.  On returning we found many more boats had arrived, we were told there was a race to Plymouth the next day.

At approx 18.30 a boat was rafted up against ours.  They were very pleasant elderly French people who were travelling in their boat whilst their younger family members were in another racier boat.  Their arrival was quite eventful with lots of shouting and a quickly diverted crash, avoided by ourselves and their younger family members fending them off as best we all could. Phew.

They turned out to be really nice people and the presumed owner of the boat asked us where we were going, then him and his daughter proceeded to tell us at great length, whilst also insisting we brought our charts to further their explanations, of the best places to visit.

The courtesy when rafting on another boat is for the people on the outside to cross onto your boat in the centre and then walk around the front to avoid any embarrassment that may occur by looking into your cabin.  Three of the four people on board their vessel were not really agile enough for this and processed across our boat cockpit all evening, occasionally looking in and saying hello, along with their families, their food, their drinks and at one point their washing up!!  This lasted until midnight with much lively conversation amongst the family.  The toilet procession began at 6.40am and continued until they left at 10.00am.  It was like a Nautical French version of ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ or ‘Vintage Vin Rouge sur la Mer’.