22nd July – Tuesday – Trebeurden to Treguier

We passed over the sill at 11.45, 10 minutes after opening, as we have a lifting keel and only a 1.1metre draft.  The larger boats had to wait a while.

This was a rare sunny and windy day and we had a perfect sail for several hours arriving in Treguier at 16.00.

‘Bondie Cruises’ turned into ‘Bondie River Cruises’ today as we navigated 5 miles up the river to Treguier.  The river is well buoyed, but buoys are ignored at your peril.  There are mudflats on both sides of the river.

Info: The marina has a dory boat but David and Eileen had reserved us all some spaces.  ‘Demijon’ is a racing boat and therefore landed about 1 hour before us, having left after us.  The marina is 27.40 Euros per night.  Older facilities incorporate ‘toilet chain pull’ showers, which is a self inflicted shock of water each time you pulled the chain.  The setting is very peaceful and we fully understand now, why people who have been coming here for years, head up the rivers.

Treguier is worth a visit.  The medieval town streets with timber framed houses wind up from the riverside, through squares to the Cathedral square.  We stopped for a glass of wine and admired the surroundings. 

Back at the marina we were invited onto ‘Demijon’ as they had invited some French people on board from a new Beneteau 38.  Turns out the Frenchman had crossed the Atlantic 2 handed, so there was lots to talk about.  We never made it back to the boat for dinner and kept nipping back for supplies.  Jolly good evening had by all.

23rd July – Wednesday

Market day in Treguier.  It starts at the harbour-side square and makes its way up to the Cathedral.   We were tempted by the local cakes as we walked ‘Kouign-Amann’ a flaky, buttery cake which was slightly chewy.  Wow. For dinner I bought a slice of Porcelet, which is a terrine, cooked inside a suckling pig skin, for dramatic effect.  8 Euros but worth every penny.  The stall had a big queue and with good reason.

The town squares advertised a Celtic Festival in the evening, so after the Porcelet, up the hill we went.  The town streets were packed and there was a real festival atmosphere.  More Moules and Frites being eaten by the locals.  In one square the local drum and pipe band was playing.  In the main square another drum and pipe band and stalls all the way.  The pipers walked off through the crowd and a Gaelic duo did a turn, pipers returned and then a Celtic band from Canada. 

The locals dance in circles, and there was one elderly lady showing the steps to children.  When the music started she joined the large circle and she visibly lit up, shades of her youth and lovely to see.

What a treat.