August 2017–Vollendam, Amsterdam and North Sea to Ipswich

7th August – Monday – Urk to Vollendam

After 6 nights in Urk we were ready for a move and not yet ready for Amsterdam so a 25 mile trip, through the Lemstad Sluis near Lelystad, and then across the Markermeer, took us to Vollendam in just over 6 hours.  Mostly sunny but once again the wind was on the nose.

Vollendam is one of the most touristy places in Holland, people take trips from Amsterdam and it is on the cruise ship and lake cruisers itinerary, which therefore makes it the best place for people watching.  The pretty sea front has a constant steam of people from all over the world.

10th August – Thursday

Fresh croissants from the marina hotel bakery.  Then walked to town to shop for our trip across the North Sea and a sneaky last chips and mayo on the sea front.

It was our 5th Wedding Anniversary so we found an Asian Fusion restaurant near the marina called ‘A-Fusion’.  It was like Asian Tapas and we tried some great new flavours.

At the end of the meal they brought marshmallows and a flowerpot shaped burner to toast them on.  Notice the concentration.  Another first and definitely not last.

Sailors Info:

Vollendam marina is a family holiday centre and hotel complex and as such has everything you need.  Excellent everything.  19 euros per night.  Free wifi.  Again we found a less touristy shopping area and Edam is a 3km walk away.

11th August – Friday – To Amsterdam

A very grey day turned sunny as we negotiated the road bridge and sluis exiting the Markermere into the North Sea Canal. 

Passing the Marken Lighthouse, which was covered in scaffolding 2 years ago, and now all spruced up.  We arrived in Sixhaven just after 1200.  A bit of jostling and the Havenmeister pulled us into an impossible mooring backwards, the man is a mooring magician.

Cruise Ship Celebrity Silouhette, dominates the city skyline.

We were only in Amsterdam for one night so we quickly changed and took the free ferry into town.  We had a desperate need for a last Pork Bun or two prior to departure.  They are a slightly sweet brioche bun stuffed with Chinese pork, slurp. Then a quick walk round to get some very fresh buns for the passage.

12th August – Saturday – To Ijmuiden (pronouned eye-mouw-der)

It was our task to negotiate with our neighbours to establish our time of departure.  You have to leave by 12, so 1130 it was.  We could sail straight out forwards, but 5 boats had to move.  Three had left earlier, one left at 11 and the last did a nifty turn to 90 degrees in order to position themselves to take our mooring spot.  Entente cordial at its best, 4 nations involved, all boats unscathed.  (21 euros per night, located next to two free ferry terminals, cheapest rooms in town).

It is only a 15 mile trip, but you do encounter some of the largest and most interesting vessels.

This is an underwater cable laying vessel, at the moment being used to lay cables from the numerous new windmills to bring the electricity to shore.  Note the cars and vans parked in the foreground to see the scale.

A crane being pulled by 2 tug boats passes.

We arrived in Ijmuiden at 1530, after passing through our last lock.  Many sailors use the marina at Ijmuiden as their departure point, where they wait for the correct tide.  Many of the other yachts were locals heading north to Texel (Dutch Friesland Island) for their jollies.

Sailors Info:

Ijmuiden Marina is huge and if you get it wrong its a VERY long walk to shore.  So we took our shower gear with us when we paid.  26 euros a night, which includes facilities and electric.  In season the marina is lively with several restaurants, cafes, ice cream parlours and a small supermarket.  A bus station makes connections to Amsterdam very easy for crew handovers.

13th August – Sunday – Overnight trip to Ipswich

Preparation:  After April’s miserable experience we wanted to give ourselves every opportunity to have a good passage.  We could have dwelled in Amsterdam for a couple of weeks, but Mick identified a weather window and we decided to make the trip.  We have been out of England longer this year than previous years, but previously it had taken weeks to get to the country of destination, this year we left home in Lancashire on a Thursday and were in Amsterdam on the Sunday, and now vice versa.

The forecast was for force 2 and 3 winds from the Northwest becoming Variable Southeast later 3 or 4, with sea swell of 0.5 to 1metres.

For the sailing purists this would be appalling.  For two people who want to get themselves and the boat home in one piece with minimal discomfort, it was perfect.

The trip out of Ijmuiden is always lively.  We had taken seasickness pills the night before and again when we awoke.  I had prepared 6 ham teacakes and 6 cheese and salami the night before.  We had made up our big sailing bag with all possible clothing combinations so that they were easily to hand and I made a flask to start the journey.  We had pot noodles, chocolate, crisps, sweets, raison buns, biscuits and small packs of drinks to hand.  (Before nightfall we made another flask, again minimising the time we had to spend downstairs if it was rough).

We set off at 08:10 and we both donned our wet weather gear.  It was a bit chilly but soon became too warm, so layers were removed.  The swell lasted for about 4 hours and then the day turned sunny.  Although, it being the North Sea, we still rolled a bit.

This years best addition to long journeys has been downloads of Desert Island Discs, Michael Caine was a highlight.  They really pass an hour quickly.

10 hours in I saw a blob on the horizon, which I just could not make out.  The nearer it got the more I thought it was an inflatable rib, slowly deflating, which we all now know, are used as migrants vessels, yes we were a bit worried on lots of levels.  It turned out to be something far stranger……. a dead whale.

It must have been there a while as it had changed colour in the sun, and was being perched upon by seabirds.  Thank goodness we saw it and thank goodness it was daylight!

It was located near the P11E temporary gas rig.

Our next sighting was much more pleasant, lovely to see this 3 masked tall ship sailing by.

We both stood lone 2 hour watches during the day so that the other person could take a nap.  Mick from 15:00 until 17:00, me from 20:00 until 22:00.  We dressed again in warm clothing and then I stood the first night watch from 23:00 to 03:00 while Mick slept and he did the 03:00 to 07:00 while I slept.  We had Radio 4 on long wave for company.

The moon came up bright orange to start with showing about half its surface as we were between Neap and Spring tides.  The night sky was almost cloudless and the moon was very bright, therefore a large portion of my watch involved sticking my head out of the cockpit trying to spot the remainder of the Meteor showers from the previous night.  I did see 2 horizontal and 4 vertical items pass across the sky, but I will need someone else to confirm if they were the real thing.  

Mick caught this sunrise during his watch.  The sea was glassy by this time.

While passing Harwich we were called on the Radio.  I always think I have done something wrong, but no, it was our friends Liz and John on Yacht Rascal, they were moored at Halfpenny pier having breakfast and had seen us on the AIS.  They were also concluding their summer season.

We arrived into the River Orwell at 08:00.

A welcome site.

And passed under the Orwell Bridge at 10:00 in the sunshine.

It is the Harbour Festival in Ipswich this weekend, so we were lucky to get a space.

Fleur has done us proud once more.  Mick had planned the navigation and maintained her to perfection.  The traffic on the crossing had been where expected, with no rogue fishing boats.  We had no tears, no sickness and no choruses of Jerusalem.  137 miles in 26 hours.

Ipswich adventures and summary to follow.