Mid July 2018 – Middelburg and Goes

11th July 2018 – Wednesday – Breskens to Middelburg

All we had to do today was cross the Westerschelde.  Enter the canal system at Vlissingen and sail up the canal to Middelburg.

Our quick hop across was slowed by this tanker, which slowed and took on a Pilot from the pilot boat shown above.  They do this in all weather, very impressive.

The 8.5 miles from 10.40 took 2 hours to complete.  The ferry at Vlissingen cut us up and we rock and rolled into the lock area.  Whilst in the lock one of the other boats experienced a terrible shock as their accelerator cable snapped.  They were propelled at full speed into the lock gates, seriously bending their bowsprit, which in turn broke the furling gear, leaving the front sail hanging.  Fortunately the people were OK and they limped to the nearest repair yard.  Glad to hear on our engine, if the cable snaps the engine goes to idle.  Scary.

We then joined what is now called the Blue Wave.  New since we were here last.  We gather before the first bridge and then at 42 minutes to the hour, every two hours an orderly procession takes place to ensure we all go through the next 5 bridges together and inconvenience the locals a whole lot less.  We were through in under an hour.  It could take 3 hours in the past.  Excellent joined up thinking by the local authorities.

12th July – Thursday

At the VVV (Touist Info) I had picked up a Discover Middelburg magazine which has a section in English.  It mentioned Folklore Days and today is one of them, which is odd it being a Thursday.  It promised traditional displays of Ring Riding.  Riders on horseback and in carriages attempt to pick up hooks with a lance, like jousting.  The horse drawn carriages race around the Abdjiplein, which is the road around the Abbey.

Poster for the event.  Zeeuwse in the local word for Zeeland.

Statue to commemorate the event.

The organisers adjudication hut, which had a large stash of beer for the thirsty judges.

The driver and passenger are dressed in traditional costumes and the horses and carriages are decorated, which is also judged.

Lady explaining the in and outs of the traditional costumes.

We presume these are the winners, as this was the biggest trophy.  They race around and were eliminated if they failed to collect a ring.  The rings decreased in size until there was a winner.

The individual riders, boys and girls, rode bareback along a sandy track for the lancing.  It was very exciting close up.  The sand stopped the horses slipping.

13th July – Friday

Evening market tonight in the main square.  We had Fajitas at the Brooklyn Grill and watched the world go by.

The view from the back of the boat.

Great for watching the comings and goings of the other boats.  They first report to the harbour masters office on the right and are often directed through the bridge into the canal.  We were lucky to get a ring side seat.

14th July – Saturday

In an attempt to find some shade we walked to the two big windmills on the map.

Middelburg has a star shaped city wall and moat.

These two huge windmills are highlights.

We ambled around town every day, with something new to see.  Middelburg is a beautiful old town and many of the streets are elegant and well kept.

The houses have shiny painted doors and the family name is painted on them.  The Stadhuis in the main square is impressive and there is a good modern shopping centre with plenty of bespoke shops.

16th July – Monday

After 5 years of procrastinating we bought 6 new mooring ropes at Jos Boone, the floating chandlers.  They are very smart.

17th July – Tuesday

Mick is engrossed in ‘Sapiens’ by Yuval Harari.  I decide to go to the museum as it has Costumes and Tapestries advertised.

Zeeuws Museum in the Abbey.

16th century wall Tapestries depicting the 80 year war. 

They took one year each to make.  There were 6 in total.

Another floor with traditional items and a beautiful ceiling.  There was also a hall of contemporary design items and another with items from Zeeland.

The cloister garden.

Entry was 9.50 euros and I enjoyed it.

We really love Middelburg and look forward to returning again and again.

Sailors Info

156 euros for a week.  Good facilities across the bridge opposite the harbour office.  Markets in the town every couple of days, food, antique and evening.  Good shopping centre.  Albert Hein supermarket across town.  Wifi OK.  Pub next to facilities belonging to the yacht club.

18th July – Wednesday – Middelburg to Goes.

Goes pronounced Hoos as in Moose.

We missed Goes last time and have heard it’s lovely.  The 20 miles took 7 hours as we had 3 locks and 2 bridges to negotiate.

The lock at Veere, full but well mannered and well packed by the lock keeper.  The holiday season is upon us.

After the Goes lock we sail along the canal towards the large telecoms tower.  Take the right fork to the town.  The first large bridge is opened on the hour and there are plenty of places to moor up.  Coincidentally we did not need to as it was just the right time.

The second bridge which leads to the Stadshaven is lifted by hand, the keeper pulls a large chain and the bridge is so well balanced it raises with little effort.

Mick performed a minor miracle of parking as the harbour was quite full at the time and the berth we had been assigned was at the reverse angle to our approach.  Slow and steady, well done.

Fleur in the Stadshaven, on a day when everyone left.  Something we said?

19th July – Thursday

Shopping and Orientation.  We had drinks on Breezy Rider with Angela and Trevor and their Manchester terrier Elkie.  They keep their boat over here so had lots of tips for good places.

We were sat watching telly later when we heard a scrabbling on deck.  A cat then appeared at the door, it was drenched and had probably been in the canal.  It dashed down the steps and sat on Micks half of the bed.  Mick managed to get hold of it, but it was not happy and proceeded to scratch and kick as he took it outside and thrust it back at its owner, Germans from a boat called Lass, who didn’t even say sorry or thanks.  Humph.  We had to spray antiseptic on Micks wounds.   What a shock and it all happened so quickly.

20th July – Friday

We walked to the big Praxis hardware store Adrian and Jane has told us about.  Then around the Holland Park and back through the ‘Werf’ a small club marina we had been told to stay in.  Unfortunately the boat before us nabbed the last spot.  It looks pretty but is a tight fit for some boats.

Town square with the evening market.  The other main market days are Tuesday and Saturday.

21st July – Saturday

We had said we would walk the other way around town, when we saw the windmills sails going round, so off we went to investigate.

It is a Corn Mill from 1801.

Bondie Miller at the door.

The view of the telecoms tower from the windmill.  Mind your head.

View across the town.

Internal machinery in action.

Very steep staircase.  This is the view up the stairs.  They were very narrow and shallow, not for the timid.

The weather has been hot and sunny with a gentle breeze.  Very different to last year.

We have enjoyed Goes and will return, if we are lucky.

Sailors Info

Stadshaven, Goes.  22 euros per night.  Aldi supermarket very near but hidden.  Back towards the big bridge and left just before it.  Albert Hein, full shopping centre and two large churches.  Facilities are good and very handy on the canal-side, two grey doors, one the loos, one the refuse disposal.  50 cents for 3 minutes.  Wifi poor but free.  Free electric.

Next Stop – Zierikzee in the Oosterschelde

Mid July 2018 – Breskens, South Holland

4th July – Wednesday – Nieuwpoort to Breskens.

The sun had been shining while we were in Nieuwpoort but the winds had also been very high.  We stayed for my birthday, but then as the winds were not forecast to change direction we decided to move on to Breskens.  I felt the sea state would still be turbulent after several days of high winds, but the Captain is in charge so off we went.

Leaving Nieuwpoort.  Note the land past the channel markers, do not be tempted to stray.  When we came in, and were being overtaken by the crane, it would have been so easy to just bob out of the channel to get out of the way, glad we didn’t.

A 09:40 start to catch the tide to enter the marina at Breskens.  The next 40 miles were uncomfortable to say the least.  10 to 20 knots of wind, less was forecast, as usual.  We had 1 to 2 knots of tide against us for the first 3 to 4 hours, which made the ride very bouncy.  The next 4 hours were marginally better with 3 to 4 knots of tide with us and we ended up going into the Westerschelde at 8.8 knots.

These flats are the best long distance indicator of the position of the marina.  The entrance is quite narrow.

The reporting pontoons are located between the concrete pontoons on the left.  The harbourmaster had finished for the day so we stayed overnight on the waiting pontoon and moved to our mooring the following day. 

5th July – Thursday

Breskens town centre is a short walk from the marina.  There is a large ‘Plus’ supermarket and a town square surrounded by cafes and shops.  The town was destroyed during the war so almost everything is new.

Harbour-side warehouse with loaves and fishes fresco.

The lobster fishing boat has a small companion, look left, called ‘The Lobster Express’.

Twelve six foot penguins arranged on a wooden structure form an sculpture on the side of the marina by the artist William Sweetlove.

They light up at night.

There are lots of places to walk, a lovely beach, promenade and importantly 2 ice cream shops.  Not forgetting an extremely good three storey camping shop on the main square.

During our walk Jane and Adrian arrived on ‘Colne Rose’.  We had a brew with them and then they came for drinks in the evening.  Lovely to see them.

6th July – Friday

Mick had been experimenting with the efficiency of our fridge, as it seemed to be running most of the time.  On our walk to town we went into the harbour office of a yacht dealer and asked if there was a local person who could re-gas the fridge.  He said he would arrive at 2:00pm and he promptly arrived.  He completed the task very quickly and efficiently and then fully tested for leaks.  He asked for 50 euros, we gave him 60 for coming so quickly.  The fridge is a very necessary piece of equipment on the boat and a new one is several hundred pounds.  In this heat we were very grateful.

Jane is a fellow crafter and we spent a lovely afternoon crafting and chatting under the canopy on Colne Rose.  They went out for dinner and met more friends in the evening.  They are a very sociable pair.  Great to catch up.

7th July – Saturday

Jane and Adrian left today for their next port before crossing for home. 

We had a walk and our first Kebbeling (fried fish).

England v Sweden – hopes are still high!

8th July – Sunday

Washing, Shopping, Grand Prix.

Acquired two Tupperware type boxes with handles in the top.  Best buy for a while to hold salad, veg etc in the fridge, they can be stacked and allow much easier access to everything.

9th July – Monday – Bruges – Grand Day Out

John and Liz had told us there was a bus to Bruges from Breskens.  It leaves at 19 minutes past the hour, from the Bus Shelter side, on the road, second left after the town square.  6 Euros per person per trip.  The journey takes 1 hour and 20 minutes, no passports currently required.

Bruges Main Square

Main Square restaurants and pretty buildings.

The tourist information office is secreted inside the museum building and there are free maps for the determined!  It looks like you are going into the museum, the desk is up two sets of steps on the left.  The map shows 10 key sites, so walking them filled our day.

There are beautiful buildings around every corner, this is were the canal tours start.

Bruges is famous for its lace and lace-makers.

Back in Belgium, meant access to waffles.

Alms Houses for ladies, who were often widows who did not want to be nuns but wanted to live a peaceful life.

Model of a Nun in the attic window above the oldest restaurant in town.

Another lovely building in the park.

The buses back are 48 minutes to the hour and leave from the bus station.  The bus driver had kindly let us off in the centre. 

The bus went through a very pretty town called ‘Sluis’ not the prettiest name, but definitely on the list for the next visit.

Bruges is a timeless, historic town.  Every corner reveals more beautiful buildings.  It is packed with cafes, restaurants, lots of shops, pretty squares and museums.  We could spend a few of days in Bruges very easily.

Confession, I was looking for the Mannekin Pis, it’s in Brussels!!!

Sailors Info

Breskens Marina was 164 euros for 7 days.  Good facilities, free showers.  Good wifi.  Chandlers on the way to town.  ‘Plus’ supermarket near harbour.  ‘Jumbo’ supermarket at the other side of town.  Easy bus access to Bruges.  New town with everything you need, we really liked it.

Next stop – Middelburg, South Holland

Early July 2018 – Nieuwpoort, Belgium

26th June – Tuesday – Gravelines, France to Nieuwpoort, Belgium.

We left Gravelines at 10:40 after waiting until the lock had opened and the digital depth gauge indicated it was safe for us to leave.  Remember we have a lifting keel, take care as the channel is shallow in parts.

Digital Depth Gauge at Gravelines lock.

The coast here is quite industrial, but I now know they have saved the best bits for the tourists and beaches further along.

The high rise flats on Nieuwpoort seafront and the entrance to the Nieuwpoort channel.  It was quite a bumpy ride into the channel.

Very large crane in the channel which decided to overtake us!!  Talk about timing in an unfamiliar place.

We arrived in Nieuwpoort marina at 16.30 after 30 miles of bouncy seas.  The wind gusted to 20 knots, we had two knots of tide with us and the wind on the nose.  If we had waited for the winds to change direction, for a more comfortable ride, we would still be there.  It is the largest marina on the west coast of Europe which has positives and negatives.

27th June – Wednesday

Big walk today.  The marina is at the end of the channel into town and across from the new and old towns so every trip out involves a big walk.  Bikes are available and free for the first hour.

Old town which is the first area you come to.  Nice shops and lots of restaurants on the harbour-side.

The new town is a good hour further.  We went up the main road which felt like forever.  There is a boardwalk along the side of the channel, which is easier to find on the return journey.

The two streets back from the sea front have lots of good quality shops and cafes.  The promenade is very long and the beach is extensive and well kept.

We then walked all the way back on the boardwalk, which was much more pleasant.

28th June – Wednesday

Short walk to get Diesel and resting while finishing my Rag Hooking Mat, which has taken several weeks.  It was supposed to be a welcome mat, but I need to make another which is bi-directional.

The words are only the right way up when we enter!

30th June – Friday

It has been hot but very windy.  So sitting out has not been that pleasant.

We decided to go back to the new town and beach and were going to take the tram.  The tram terminal is just across the bridge from the marina.

We asked for two tickets and the lady said it was the same price for a day pass.  We looked at each other and asked the lady how far we could go with the ticket.  All the way to the end, she said, which was at the Netherlands border in Knokke.

Well you know us by now.  We hopped onto the next tram and had ourselves an impromptu day out.

The tram goes all the way along the sea front so we went through Middelkerke, Oostende, Bredene, DeHaan and decided to have a coffee in Blankenberge after an hour and a half and seeing several smaller towns too.

Blankenberge is more of a seaside town, very high rise, with extensive beaches, portioned into areas with seats and bars and many restaurants.  It was a hot day and Belgium was sunning itself.  We walked along the promenade and returned to the tram at the Pier terminal.

DeHaan tram stop.  We had noticed DeHaan on our way and it looked much smaller and quaint.

The seaside at DeHaan is low rise and there are lots of nice shops and restaurants in the pretty town and on the promenade. 

My mum and dad used to holiday in camp sites in Bredene and DeHaan, pre me and it was lovely to see these places for myself.  They took our caravan to Blankenberg when I was a child, but I did not recognise anything.

We travelled back to Nieuwpoort beach and then caught the tram back. 

To say we got our monies worth out of our 6 euro tickets is an understatement.  Great Day Out.

2nd July - Monday

Trevor and Vanessa friends from home rang to say they would be staying nearby in their caravan and would pop by to see us.  They came for lunch on the boat and we had a lovely few hours catching up and swopping travel stories.  They are touring for a few weeks now.  They gave us and the trolley a lift to the supermarket, as they were leaving, which was a great help.  Happy travels x.

3rd July – Tuesday

I noticed one sign for an ‘Avond’ market which means Evening.  I looked it up and it was on the evening of my birthday in the new town on the promenade.  After a lazy day we walked the boardwalk to the Beach.  No signs.  We walked about half a mile and faith was justified as the market started and then went on and on and on.

The very long evening market which occurs every Tuesday night in July and August.  I suppose they don’t have to advertise it much, as it was well attended.

Neptune made of flowers as part of a flower display in the old town.

We caught the tram back from the beach after walking the very long market.  Birthday tea, Boudha Chinese.  Not much to look at outside but excellent food.  The Thai I had my eye on was closed.

Sailors Info

Nieuwpoort is a huge marina at the end of the channel and it is a 20 minute walk to the old town.

Alberto the third Memorial is a prominent landmark.

View towards the bridge and memorial from the marina road.

Pyramid which houses a shop and bakery, (bit pricey, but convenient and fresh) open every day in July and August.  The facilities which are free and excellent are located to the rear.

Marina office, restaurant and café.  180 Euros for 8 days.  Easy enough free wifi with password.

The nearest large supermarket is a Carrefour Market on the main harbour-side in the old town, which was not that easy to spot.  Lidl and Aldi on the big main road.  Colyrupt, cash and carry style.

All the facilities of a large marina but due to the size and location the walk to town was a bit tiresome. 

Next Stop Breskens, Netherlands