Mid July 2018 – Middelburg and Goes

11th July 2018 – Wednesday – Breskens to Middelburg

All we had to do today was cross the Westerschelde.  Enter the canal system at Vlissingen and sail up the canal to Middelburg.

Our quick hop across was slowed by this tanker, which slowed and took on a Pilot from the pilot boat shown above.  They do this in all weather, very impressive.

The 8.5 miles from 10.40 took 2 hours to complete.  The ferry at Vlissingen cut us up and we rock and rolled into the lock area.  Whilst in the lock one of the other boats experienced a terrible shock as their accelerator cable snapped.  They were propelled at full speed into the lock gates, seriously bending their bowsprit, which in turn broke the furling gear, leaving the front sail hanging.  Fortunately the people were OK and they limped to the nearest repair yard.  Glad to hear on our engine, if the cable snaps the engine goes to idle.  Scary.

We then joined what is now called the Blue Wave.  New since we were here last.  We gather before the first bridge and then at 42 minutes to the hour, every two hours an orderly procession takes place to ensure we all go through the next 5 bridges together and inconvenience the locals a whole lot less.  We were through in under an hour.  It could take 3 hours in the past.  Excellent joined up thinking by the local authorities.

12th July – Thursday

At the VVV (Touist Info) I had picked up a Discover Middelburg magazine which has a section in English.  It mentioned Folklore Days and today is one of them, which is odd it being a Thursday.  It promised traditional displays of Ring Riding.  Riders on horseback and in carriages attempt to pick up hooks with a lance, like jousting.  The horse drawn carriages race around the Abdjiplein, which is the road around the Abbey.

Poster for the event.  Zeeuwse in the local word for Zeeland.

Statue to commemorate the event.

The organisers adjudication hut, which had a large stash of beer for the thirsty judges.

The driver and passenger are dressed in traditional costumes and the horses and carriages are decorated, which is also judged.

Lady explaining the in and outs of the traditional costumes.

We presume these are the winners, as this was the biggest trophy.  They race around and were eliminated if they failed to collect a ring.  The rings decreased in size until there was a winner.

The individual riders, boys and girls, rode bareback along a sandy track for the lancing.  It was very exciting close up.  The sand stopped the horses slipping.

13th July – Friday

Evening market tonight in the main square.  We had Fajitas at the Brooklyn Grill and watched the world go by.

The view from the back of the boat.

Great for watching the comings and goings of the other boats.  They first report to the harbour masters office on the right and are often directed through the bridge into the canal.  We were lucky to get a ring side seat.

14th July – Saturday

In an attempt to find some shade we walked to the two big windmills on the map.

Middelburg has a star shaped city wall and moat.

These two huge windmills are highlights.

We ambled around town every day, with something new to see.  Middelburg is a beautiful old town and many of the streets are elegant and well kept.

The houses have shiny painted doors and the family name is painted on them.  The Stadhuis in the main square is impressive and there is a good modern shopping centre with plenty of bespoke shops.

16th July – Monday

After 5 years of procrastinating we bought 6 new mooring ropes at Jos Boone, the floating chandlers.  They are very smart.

17th July – Tuesday

Mick is engrossed in ‘Sapiens’ by Yuval Harari.  I decide to go to the museum as it has Costumes and Tapestries advertised.

Zeeuws Museum in the Abbey.

16th century wall Tapestries depicting the 80 year war. 

They took one year each to make.  There were 6 in total.

Another floor with traditional items and a beautiful ceiling.  There was also a hall of contemporary design items and another with items from Zeeland.

The cloister garden.

Entry was 9.50 euros and I enjoyed it.

We really love Middelburg and look forward to returning again and again.

Sailors Info

156 euros for a week.  Good facilities across the bridge opposite the harbour office.  Markets in the town every couple of days, food, antique and evening.  Good shopping centre.  Albert Hein supermarket across town.  Wifi OK.  Pub next to facilities belonging to the yacht club.

18th July – Wednesday – Middelburg to Goes.

Goes pronounced Hoos as in Moose.

We missed Goes last time and have heard it’s lovely.  The 20 miles took 7 hours as we had 3 locks and 2 bridges to negotiate.

The lock at Veere, full but well mannered and well packed by the lock keeper.  The holiday season is upon us.

After the Goes lock we sail along the canal towards the large telecoms tower.  Take the right fork to the town.  The first large bridge is opened on the hour and there are plenty of places to moor up.  Coincidentally we did not need to as it was just the right time.

The second bridge which leads to the Stadshaven is lifted by hand, the keeper pulls a large chain and the bridge is so well balanced it raises with little effort.

Mick performed a minor miracle of parking as the harbour was quite full at the time and the berth we had been assigned was at the reverse angle to our approach.  Slow and steady, well done.

Fleur in the Stadshaven, on a day when everyone left.  Something we said?

19th July – Thursday

Shopping and Orientation.  We had drinks on Breezy Rider with Angela and Trevor and their Manchester terrier Elkie.  They keep their boat over here so had lots of tips for good places.

We were sat watching telly later when we heard a scrabbling on deck.  A cat then appeared at the door, it was drenched and had probably been in the canal.  It dashed down the steps and sat on Micks half of the bed.  Mick managed to get hold of it, but it was not happy and proceeded to scratch and kick as he took it outside and thrust it back at its owner, Germans from a boat called Lass, who didn’t even say sorry or thanks.  Humph.  We had to spray antiseptic on Micks wounds.   What a shock and it all happened so quickly.

20th July – Friday

We walked to the big Praxis hardware store Adrian and Jane has told us about.  Then around the Holland Park and back through the ‘Werf’ a small club marina we had been told to stay in.  Unfortunately the boat before us nabbed the last spot.  It looks pretty but is a tight fit for some boats.

Town square with the evening market.  The other main market days are Tuesday and Saturday.

21st July – Saturday

We had said we would walk the other way around town, when we saw the windmills sails going round, so off we went to investigate.

It is a Corn Mill from 1801.

Bondie Miller at the door.

The view of the telecoms tower from the windmill.  Mind your head.

View across the town.

Internal machinery in action.

Very steep staircase.  This is the view up the stairs.  They were very narrow and shallow, not for the timid.

The weather has been hot and sunny with a gentle breeze.  Very different to last year.

We have enjoyed Goes and will return, if we are lucky.

Sailors Info

Stadshaven, Goes.  22 euros per night.  Aldi supermarket very near but hidden.  Back towards the big bridge and left just before it.  Albert Hein, full shopping centre and two large churches.  Facilities are good and very handy on the canal-side, two grey doors, one the loos, one the refuse disposal.  50 cents for 3 minutes.  Wifi poor but free.  Free electric.

Next Stop – Zierikzee in the Oosterschelde