September 2019 – Bangor to Troon and Home

26th August 2019 – Bangor to Troon

The sail from Bangor to Troon has previously been in our top three worst sailing trips, so we were hoping for better, more well-behaved weather this time, as we left the harbour at 05.30am with the first light. (above).

The first 5 hours where quite cold and misty but the second half of the day was warm and sunny. 

The mist was mostly clear as we passed Ailsa Craig, which is an island of 99 hectares in the outer Firth of Clyde, 16 kilometres west of mainland Scotland, upon which blue hone granite has long been quarried to make curling stones. The now uninhabited island is formed from the volcanic plug of an extinct volcano. (According to Wikipedia).

It is a welcoming site to sailors and marks approximately the half way point in our journey.

We were extremely lucky to see four pods of dolphins today. 

Mick also managed to photograph this helicopter which came very close.  We knew he was around as we had heard messages on the radio between him and a ship during an exercise.

We arrived in Troon after almost 65nm at 16.30pm.  Two periods of good tide made it a quick crossing.

Annette and Julian waved us off from Troon 5 years ago and it is great to be back.

Over the next two weeks we had 3 sunny days out of 14.

On the sunny days, Mick took down the front sail, serviced the steering cables, and went up the mast to look at the Aerial and the Mast Head Light.  Going up the mast provides entertainment for us and any passerby, who always insist on passing a wise crack. 

Our train tickets home were super cheap £10.80 each with our two together rail cards.  We collected the physical tickets the following day just to make sure it wasn’t a mistake.

There is a christening to attend at the end of the month, so we are off home now.

Sailors Info: Troon Marina

The marina has good facilities with friendly and helpful staff. 

Scott’s Restaurant overlooking the marina is great and really good value.  It is operated by Buzzworks and there is a Buzzworks cafe called The Lido in town too.

There is a large Morrisons store, just a 10 minute walk into town.  The town is small but has a good variety of shops and cafes. 

The washer is only £1 and 80p for a dry.  There is currently work underway and I suspect when relocated they may become more expensive.

The wifi is good and the train station is only a 20 minute walk away.

Summary 2019

Top of the list is the safe delivery of Evie and the joy she will bring to us all.

We have visited 21 harbours of which 17 have been new to us.  We have covered 946 miles.  500ish of those miles have been challenging, mostly due to weather conditions. 

The weather has not been kind.  The East coast of England was very windy and the wind was mostly freezing until July, after which it became just cold.  My shorts have had very few outings this year and will easily do another season.

Some of the highlights have been Hartlepool, Whitby, Port Edgar, Caledonian Canal, especially Loch Ness, Tobermory, Oban, Gigha and Bangor.

On the tourist front we had some good day trips from the boat to Inverness, Aberdeen, Dundee and the Giants Causeway.

In Hartlepool, Whitby, Port Edgar and Dublin friends and family went out of their ways to make our stays memorable, a big thank you to you all.

Our reliable and indomitable ‘Fleur’ is resting in Troon for the winter, ready for next years adventures.

Thanks for reading XXX

Late August 2019 – Bangor, Belfast, and Dublin

4th August – Sunday
After arriving in Bangor we had a nice few days reacquainting ourselves with the town and carrying out the tasks, which are so much easier in a town marina with good facilities.
On Sunday we walked south to Ballyholme on the seafront from Bangor. 

A beautifully sunny and calm day, we watched the Sunday Yacht Club Racers in the bay.  We managed to track down the café and ice cream parlour, a street back from the seafront.  Once again, more signage required.
7th August – Wednesday – Train Trip to Belfast
Trains to Belfast are every 15 minutes from Bangor.  We were on a reconnaissance to find the coach office for our next day out, so after 50 minutes we got off at the Botanic Station and then walked into town.  We have previously been to all the Titanic exhibits, though whilst passing it was obvious that much building has taken place since.

Our first stop was the Victoria Square shopping centre, as I had read they have a rooftop dome with 360 degree views of the city for free. 

Piccy in the dome.

It is a very impressive centre for shopping and eating.
We did not want to pay to go into the cathedral, St Georges Market was sadly closed (open Fri to Sun), Castle Court Centre was a welcome shelter from a rain shower and then we found Queens Arcade.

Queens Arcade.  I really love an old arcade.

Again, mostly due to the showers we went into the City Hall as there seemed to be visitors milling around.  Sadly we missed the last guided tour, which are at 11, 1 and 2pm.  However there is a free 13 room exhibition about the city which passed the next hour very well.

Inside, under the dome.

There are some really interesting exhibits including this cabinet which missed the boat, Titanic, as it was not delivered in time.
Back in Bangor we ate out at Little Wings Pizza restaurant.  Just as good as we remembered.
12th August – Monday
We had an impromptu trip to Donaghadee.  A friend had told us to go while we were here.  We were just walking through town when we saw a bus displaying the town’s name, so we hopped on. 

It was a 30 minute bus trip, past some very impressive sea front properties.  There is a nice sea front and a couple of shopping streets with a good variety of shops.

The Moat sticks out on the horizon, so we climbed to the top.  After a bag of chips we hopped back on the bus to Bangor.
13th August – Tuesday – Grand Day Out to Giants Causeway
I have to start by saying that Game of Thrones (GOT, which neither of us have seen) is pulling in the punters at present, so any mention of a GOT connection gets some folks very excited.
We woke at 6.00 and caught the 6.50 train from Bangor to Belfast.  During our reconnaissance, the lady at the train station who directed us to Allen's Tours office said that we should arrive early and set ourselves up with an Ulster Fry at the top 10 rated café for Ulsters Fry's which is located across from the tour office.  Rude not to.  We arrived 20 minutes before it opened, hungry.  The Causeway Café is connected to the YMCA next door and opens at 08.00.  We were not disappointed, the full works including Fried Soda Bread for £4.95.  We met an older Canadian guy who was visiting relatives and was staying for £40 for 2 nights. 

Being the people who turned up super early we managed to nab the two fronts seats on the 70 seat bendy bus.   After several delays with people, pickups, the driver selling tickets for tours etc we arrived in Carrickfergus.

Carrickfergus Castle.  This was a short stop for photos so we just walked the prom, while the bus driver did a sterling job extricating the bus from the car park, as he had got well and truly wedged, due to people parking without any thought.  My dad, who was a driver, would have been very impressed.

Next stop, GOT The Dark Castle set, in a quarry.

The coach driver paid not attention to several large signs.  The locals are quite cross at the amount of vehicles being attracted here.  So our stop was more of a slow fly-past.
The coastal road up the East coast of Antrim is beautiful and the morning was quite bright. 
 
Next stop at Carrick A Rede was the Rope Bridge.  It is £9 to walk across.  By this time it was raining and neither of us fancied it.  The people who went said it was a 20 minute walk and then a number of steep, slippery steps.  They were told they had to be back at the bus quite quickly and had to return back quickly, so as not to miss the bus.
GOT fight scenes were also filmed in another quarry near the bridge.  We then advanced to our lunch stop at the Giants Barn. 
We arrived at the Giants Causeway and our coach driver dropped us off with a return time firmly implanted with us.  Some of the coach guests alighted to join a tour, booked on the coach. 
The Giants Causeway is free to visit.  The National Trust have built a substantial visitor centre.

The visitor centre costs £12.50 and we had been advised not to pay as it should be free.  Inside was a large shop and café.  A display and video were the items paid for.

Entry is via this impressive tunnel from the car park.

It is a half hour walk downhill from the visitor centre.  Buses are available for £1.50 each way.  The walk is very picturesque, and a relief after several hours on a coach.

Us and rocks.

We managed to get these pictures, which just like the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen, do not represent the sheer volume of visitors which surrounded us.

The iconic shot!
The walk down and back and the stones themselves were incredibly busy.  Any thought of a spiritually deep experience need to be shelved.  Though drier now, the stones were slippery from the previous showers. 
Ireland has been very successful in attracting Chinese visitors and GOT has attracted another audience.  Laura and Damien came here on a bleak January day, which might appeal if you want the place to yourself.  There are currently 2,000 people per day visiting and due to travel schedules I suspect they arrive at similar times.
We did not expect the place to ourselves and found the comings and goings very amusing.  The walk back up hill takes a bit longer.
Our coach could not park anywhere near and appeared on the dot at the time advised, then became hemmed in.  By now we were running quite late.
The last stop was another GOT location.

The Dark Hedges.  There is a Throne from GOT in the Hedges Hotel nearby and photos can be taken.  (The King’s Road, Series 2 Ep 1).
The end of the day was a 50 mile dash down the motorway back to Belfast.  At the last set of traffic lights before the tour office the bus stopped, and would not start again.  We were asked to get off and make our own way back to the station.  We had already tipped Rodney the driver and felt he deserved it even more at this point.
This trip was the best value £20 trip I have ever been on.  We travelled the length of the beautiful coast line and saw many new and interesting sites over a 11 hour marathon.
Back to Bangor for another late Pizza.
17th August – Saturday – To Dublin to visit Laura, Damien and Evie
The only hiccup in the day was the bus replacement service from Lanyon Place, Belfast to Newry.  The buses were very plush and our trolley was placed in the hold with the suitcases.
We took the opportunity to celebrate our wedding anniversary in Dublin and had a terrific Chinese meal at the Good World restaurant as recommended by Laura.  We were collected by Damien on Sunday morning.  Excitement was high.

Very Proud Grandad with Evie

Beautiful Evie.  Yes we are biased.
We had a very good visit to their new house.  Sunday lunch at Fallons in Kilcullen.  Lunch at the Merry Plough Boy and another lunch trip to Avoca, a lovely lifestyle pavilion, full of lovely things.  Laura made us some great food and we watched films and played games.  So lovely to see them all.
23rd August – Friday – Back to Bangor
The bus replacement service finishes after today, lucky us.  More Little Wings Pizza on our return.
It was the Open House festival last weekend and The Specials were playing on the seafront as part of their 40 year anniversary tour…….40 years since Ghost Town.  We could hear the band very well from the boat and the weather was kind.

We enjoyed the Bank Holiday sunshine on the coastal path at weekend.  A great end to our Ireland adventure.
Sailors Info: Bangor Marina
We have been here before and having experienced the full range of marina facilities since our last visit, we appreciate a well run and welcoming yacht haven.
Visitors are generally pointed to pontoon E, which involves a circuit around the marina.  Fuel is located on the pontoon on the left was you enter.  Wifi is good.  Facilities are good inc Hairdryers and sockets. 
Asda is the nearest shop at the top of the main High Street.  Lidl and the Bloomfield Shopping Centre are a 30 minute walk, and have every type of shop you may require. 
Washers £4.50 and Dryers 70p but require two cycles.
Maud’s Ice Cream is a local delicacy which is found all around Northern Ireland.  Poor Bear a honeycomb flavour is the local favourite.
Next Stop Troon, Ayrshire, Scotland.

Early August 2019 – Oban, Gigha to Bangor N.I.

27th July  - Saturday – Tobermory to Oban

The forecasted rain was lighter than expected as we left Tobermory at 09.30.  The Dutch Armada had departed very quietly at 05.00.  The Sound of Mull was relatively quiet, except for the regular ferries.  Big ones on this route.

We went through the overfalls with no problems and arrived back in Oban at 15.00.  Just under 6 hours for 25 miles.  It was a good day for wildlife with 5 seals and 1 dolphin.

Fish and Chips at the Oban Fish and Chip shop, as previous.  It was much busier this time but just as good.

The evening view from the boat looking towards Kerrera.

28th July – Sunday

Big stock up today for our next island stop and a Wetherspoons breakfast.

Sailors Info:  Oban Transit Marina

Although this was a return visit to Oban we stayed in a different marina.  The transit marina has only been open a few years and allows boats to stay for up to 3 days.  Literally in transit.

£30 per night, very convenient to the town centre.  The facilities are new and excellent. 

29th July – Monday – Oban to the Isle of Gigha

It was a sunny start as we left Oban at 10.00am.  But the showers soon came. 

We caught a glimpse of the castle on the south of Kerrera, which had eluded us on foot.

One of the reasons we left Oban after only two nights was the imminent arrival of 72 boats on their way to take part in the Highland Series of Yacht Races.

We met them before the narrows and they were quite a sight to see.  They just kept coming.

The Flabba Lighthouse.

The lighthouse indicates the narrowest point in the Flabba narrows.  Todays calculations had to be particularly precise, as we had to arrive here and then punch the tide for an hour.  At one point we were only doing 2 knots with the engine at 3,000 revs.  But as we squished through, then the tide was with us for the rest of the journey.  The sea here was very disturbed and a challenge on the helm, not in a rock n roll way, but by the fact that the merging water was in conflict with itself.  Very interesting patterns on the surface of the water.

We past the Gulf of Corryvrecken at a respectable distance.  It is a narrow strait between the islands of Jura and Scarba.  For the braver souls there is a whirlpool to be seen, tours can be taken on powerful motorboats to see it.

As we enter the Sound of Jura the rain and mist descended.  Cold thick fog stayed with us for a few hours, and we emerged from it 10 miles from Gigha.  We had already had a good day for wildlife with 4 seals and 5 dolphins and then we were rewarded with a whale.  We discovered later it was a Minke Whale.  It had a dark black back, with defined lines and a small sickle-shaped fin, which seemed small for such a large creature.  The boat is 10.5m and they grow to about that size, so we think it was a fully grown adult.  It only broached the water once, quite slowly, but sadly not slow enough for a picture.  We did log it with Whale Watchers and they have put it down as a ‘probable’ sighting as we are not professional whale spotters.  We arrived at Gigha at 20.00 at 49 miles in just over 10 hours.

It was difficult to see if there were any spaces on the pontoon and we had to pick our way through the moored boats, but we were lucky to find a space near to the shore.  It is only 1.8 deep at low tide but we were fine with our lifting keel.

30th July – Tuesday – Isle of Gigha

The first thing that strikes you is the clarity of the water.

Photo taken from the pontoon.

The shallow lagoon near the harbour.

A sunny morning prompted us to walk to Achamore Gardens, one of the tourist sites on the island.  Created by Colonel Sir James Horlick from 1944 the gardens are home to a renowned Rhododendron collection.  Sadly it is the wrong season for Rhododendron but the 54 acres are well worth a visit, especially the viewpoint.

Viewpoint looking towards Islay and Jura.  The garden operates on donations and the handsome mansion is currently for sale.

We made up for my birthday meal by eating at the very popular and award winning BoatHouse restaurant near the moorings in Ardmish. Scallops, Lobster Tails, Fish and Chips and Fish Curry.

If you order Lobster, as one of our fellow diners did, the lobster is retrieved from a pot strung from the pontoon.  Very fresh and reasonable at £36 for a whole one.

31st July – Wednesday

We walked North as we had walked South the previous day, options are few.  Lovely countryside like we have at home.

The only shop, the Ardmish Stores does the best and largest ice creams.

We later had a chat to Robert and Liz on ‘Elimi’, she gave us some of her homemade bread and we had a drink prior to their visit to the BoatHouse.  Happy sailing.

Sailors Info: Isle of Gigha

There are regular ferries here, more popular with campers than campervans.  There is a camp site at Ardmish near the pontoon.

The pontoon at Gigha was built only two years ago and is therefore modern and substantial.  Beware the inner moorings are only 1.8m deep.

Fleur at the front of the pontoon.

Mick on the pontoon showing its size and length.

An honesty box system operates for payment.  The box on the right holds envelopes which explain the rules.  £20 for the pontoon, £15 for a mooring.  Some of the bigger ships cannot get into the pontoon.  A chart on the left explains the tidal heights and events and attractions.  Place your money in the envelope and post it into the secured box.

The island was bought by the islanders, currently 160 people live here.  In 2002 with grants and loans, the islanders paid £4million and the island is now part of the Gigha Heritage Trust. 

The facilities are adequate with a £1 charge for a 10 minute shower.  No wifi, no TV.  We really enjoyed our 3 nights here.  The mild climate was a welcome change.

1st August – Thursday – Gigha to Bangor Northern Ireland

We crept away from the pontoon at 5.20 with a couple of other boats heading south.  The light was good enough to dodge the moored boats and make our way out into the Sound, missing the rocks, we had been warned about.

The Mull of Kintyre, had mists rolling in from the sea….da de de….

The Mull is notorious with sailors and demands respect.  We registering 9.8 knots around the lighthouse, which gave us a sling-shot towards Northern Ireland.

The first 6 hours were pretty gloomy and then the sun came out.  The shipping channel was quite busy with ferries and tankers.  We saw 2 seals, 2 dolphins and a final Puffin.  Love Puffins!

 

Technically, we completed our 5 year unofficial circumnavigation today.  Above shows us crossing our track of 5 years ago on the electronic navigation system.

The N.I. coastline is dramatic and beautiful and we enjoyed it in the sunshine.  We arrived in Bangor at 16.00 after 65 miles.  A long but good day, with many renditions of ‘Mull of Kintyre’.

We are now having a break in Bangor.

Late July 2019 – Oban and Tobermory, Isle of Mull

17th July – Wednesday – Corpach (Caledonian Canal) to Oban

We took a slight risk today as there were gusts of 22 in the forecast.  The forecast for the next few days was much worse, so we went for it.  We left the Sealock at Corpach at 08.00 with another four boats.  Two interlopers took the Starboard side and we (me) had to move everything around quickly to accommodate a the Port side mooring.  That wakes you up.

Loch Linnie was beautiful, even in the mist.  I don’t think anyone see’s the whole canal in sunshine.  We had heavy rain as we approached the Corran narrows, on the loch.  After that the weather got progressively worse.  The 22 knots gusts were 28 knots and the fog came down too.  We have not been to Oban before and there are many small islands and ferries to negotiate.  We arrived in Oban Marina on the Isle of Kerrera (Opposite Oban Town) at 3.30.  We were wet through.  7 and a half hours to complete 30 miles.  We parked on the fuel pontoon to start with as the wind was strong and the berths we had been directed to were full.  Obviously we could not stay on the fuel berth, but stayed two hours until the wind subsided.  I, almost jokingly, shouted ‘I Divorce Thee’ three times, once we were tied but.  But I don’t think it’s legal here!

18th July – Thursday

Swamped it down, as forecast.  Did washing.

19th July – Friday

There is a free ferry across to Oban Town.  It has to be booked with the office along with a return time.  After a misty morning the weather cleared and we caught the 12noon ferry.

Kerrera Ferry.

Fish and Chips for lunch at the Oban Fish and Chip restaurant, as recommended by Rick Stein (in 2002).  Excellent.  Lidl shopping, beer in Wetherspoons waiting for the ferry back.  Good Day.

Oban

Little did we know the day was about to get so much better.  A phone call from Mick’s Daughter Laura and Son-in-Law Damien to say that their daughter, Evie Egan, entered the world safely at 3.50 in the afternoon.  Grandad Bond and I are over the moon and we can’t wait to see her, she is soooo beautiful.

20th July - Saturday

A wedding party arrived in ferry boats this morning to have their wedding ceremony on the shore near the marina.

The bride and her dad.

We went for a walk around Kerrera in the afternoon.  The views are amazing.

Overlooking the Sound of Mull

Not a bad place to be a sheep.

We did 6 miles and 14k steps and still only managed to do half of the island.  There is a great need for signage.

21st July – Sunday

Ferry to town.  Wetherspoons Traditional Scottish Breakfast and coffees £10.50 for two, bargain and really good.  Tesco and Lidl, then a lazy newspaper day.

Sailors Port Info – Oban Marina

Located across Oban Sound this privately owned marina is a good place to stay a few days.  The Transit Marina in town has a 3 day stay limit, more of which later.

£31.50 per night plus £1 showers.  One return ferry ride per person per day is included in the price.  There is fuel available to paying guests only.  Washer £4, dryer £1.  Wifi Poor.  Restaurant is open every night.

The facilities are newly refurbished.  The owners and staff were very pleasant but ask them to check if there are spaces before you try to dock, as there is a sunken ship near the entrance which is off putting.

23rd July – Tuesday – Oban to Tobermory, Isle of Mull

When we used to keep Fleur in Largs, the only place I wanted to visit was Tobermory.  We only ever had two weeks holidays and the weather was never kind enough to allow it.  We were so near in Oban that it would have been a shame not to go.

We left Kerrera at 07.30 with a dark mist and black clouds.

Lady Rock Lighthouse at the narrows at the south end of the Sound of Mull.

The small lighthouse is on a spit which emerges directly from the large lighthouse.

Here the water converges and there are overfalls to deal with.  We did not have any problems with the overfalls, in either direction, even though they tossed us around a bit.  The navigators tide times have to be spot on as we were doing 7.8 knots with the tide, passing the lighthouses.

A beautiful break in the cloud.

The wind varied from 10 to 22 knots and was flukie all the way, the Genoa did not know whether it was coming or going.  Not since Windermere days have we experienced such sudden changes.

The navy training ship TS Royalist.  £4.8 million, two years old, goes around the country training navy cadets.  She turned up in Tobermory later.

Our first glimpse of Tobermory.

We arrived at 12.15pm after 25 miles.  We secured a mooring on the first-come-first-served pontoons half an hour before the Dutch, 21 boat flotilla arrived.  They are on a 9 week Round Britain Adventure Cruise with an organisation called Ocean People.  Our neighbours on Jack in a Box, were very friendly and we had some good chats. 

The Dutch Armada

The Dutch pontoon party.  They only had one, so that was ok.

24th July – Wednesday

A good jobs day, cleaning, gas, diesel, then I went for a mooch around the pretty shops.

In the afternoon I persuaded Mick out for a walk with the promise of an Ice Cream.  Isle of Mull Ice Creams in a small pink kiosk on the harbourside.  The imaginative flavours change every day.  Four days, 8 different flavours tried!  We also bought new Fixed Focus binoculars (7.5 x 50), we both wear glasses and have to change the focus each time we use our old ones, which Mick found in a skip years ago.  They are a massive improvement, so easy.

In my morning moochings I spotted a tiny sign at the end of the harbour saying Lighthouse 2kms.  Fueled by ice-cream we went up a slope and then onto a lovely enchanted path with trees touching above.

Views of the Sound of Mull and across to the Morvern Penninsula

Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse, at the end of the walk.

Our friends Steve and Ferne prescribed beers at the Mishnish pub, a good end to a good walk.

25th July – Thursday

Forecast to be the hottest day on record we decided against the 50 mile bus ride (each way), along single track roads to get to Fionnphort and the Ferry to Iona.  Well two buses to be precise and then returns.  We met a man on a bench whilst eating our ice creams, looking very frazzled.  He had just driven it and was in need of refreshment.   The other alternative was a Staffa Tours boat trip, at £65 each.  That is 6 sit-in chippy teas!  And they were full due to the holidays. 

We really think we will return here with the camper van, you need a vehicle to get around properly.

Only 23 degrees in Tobermory, compared to the heatwave further south.  We went to the small town museum, which passed an hour.   We also walked up above the town, where there is a nice gallery.

View from the Gallery.

26th July – Friday

We walked to Aros Park which is on the coast to west of the marina.  It is a circular walk interspersed with waterfalls.

The walk took around 2 hours, which was very pleasant in the sunshine.

My best picture, of many, of Tobermory.

We will be back here as there is much more to explore, hopefully with a vehicle.

Sailors Port Info: Tobermory Marina

The relatively new Marina Facilities and Aquarium.

View showing the marina pontoons and office.  There are numerous buoy moorings too, but don’t be scared, come for a closer look on arrival, as there are more pontoon moorings than you would think.  The approach angle is skewed and they are strangely ‘hidden’.

The whole marina suffers from wake-rattle-n-roll from the passing ferries and ships and a small yellow local boat which was a menace.

£28 per night.  Good facilities but Showers are £2, and use of the hairdryer 50p!  Most expensive so far, in 6 years!  Washer £3, Dryers £1.  Petrol Station next to Marina Office.  Very well stocked Co-op supermarket in town.  The wifi is poor and the phone signals are worse.  Makes for a relaxing visit.

Next stop, back to Oban for more Fish and Chips and a stock up before our next mission.