Early August 2019 – Oban, Gigha to Bangor N.I.

27th July  - Saturday – Tobermory to Oban

The forecasted rain was lighter than expected as we left Tobermory at 09.30.  The Dutch Armada had departed very quietly at 05.00.  The Sound of Mull was relatively quiet, except for the regular ferries.  Big ones on this route.

We went through the overfalls with no problems and arrived back in Oban at 15.00.  Just under 6 hours for 25 miles.  It was a good day for wildlife with 5 seals and 1 dolphin.

Fish and Chips at the Oban Fish and Chip shop, as previous.  It was much busier this time but just as good.

The evening view from the boat looking towards Kerrera.

28th July – Sunday

Big stock up today for our next island stop and a Wetherspoons breakfast.

Sailors Info:  Oban Transit Marina

Although this was a return visit to Oban we stayed in a different marina.  The transit marina has only been open a few years and allows boats to stay for up to 3 days.  Literally in transit.

£30 per night, very convenient to the town centre.  The facilities are new and excellent. 

29th July – Monday – Oban to the Isle of Gigha

It was a sunny start as we left Oban at 10.00am.  But the showers soon came. 

We caught a glimpse of the castle on the south of Kerrera, which had eluded us on foot.

One of the reasons we left Oban after only two nights was the imminent arrival of 72 boats on their way to take part in the Highland Series of Yacht Races.

We met them before the narrows and they were quite a sight to see.  They just kept coming.

The Flabba Lighthouse.

The lighthouse indicates the narrowest point in the Flabba narrows.  Todays calculations had to be particularly precise, as we had to arrive here and then punch the tide for an hour.  At one point we were only doing 2 knots with the engine at 3,000 revs.  But as we squished through, then the tide was with us for the rest of the journey.  The sea here was very disturbed and a challenge on the helm, not in a rock n roll way, but by the fact that the merging water was in conflict with itself.  Very interesting patterns on the surface of the water.

We past the Gulf of Corryvrecken at a respectable distance.  It is a narrow strait between the islands of Jura and Scarba.  For the braver souls there is a whirlpool to be seen, tours can be taken on powerful motorboats to see it.

As we enter the Sound of Jura the rain and mist descended.  Cold thick fog stayed with us for a few hours, and we emerged from it 10 miles from Gigha.  We had already had a good day for wildlife with 4 seals and 5 dolphins and then we were rewarded with a whale.  We discovered later it was a Minke Whale.  It had a dark black back, with defined lines and a small sickle-shaped fin, which seemed small for such a large creature.  The boat is 10.5m and they grow to about that size, so we think it was a fully grown adult.  It only broached the water once, quite slowly, but sadly not slow enough for a picture.  We did log it with Whale Watchers and they have put it down as a ‘probable’ sighting as we are not professional whale spotters.  We arrived at Gigha at 20.00 at 49 miles in just over 10 hours.

It was difficult to see if there were any spaces on the pontoon and we had to pick our way through the moored boats, but we were lucky to find a space near to the shore.  It is only 1.8 deep at low tide but we were fine with our lifting keel.

30th July – Tuesday – Isle of Gigha

The first thing that strikes you is the clarity of the water.

Photo taken from the pontoon.

The shallow lagoon near the harbour.

A sunny morning prompted us to walk to Achamore Gardens, one of the tourist sites on the island.  Created by Colonel Sir James Horlick from 1944 the gardens are home to a renowned Rhododendron collection.  Sadly it is the wrong season for Rhododendron but the 54 acres are well worth a visit, especially the viewpoint.

Viewpoint looking towards Islay and Jura.  The garden operates on donations and the handsome mansion is currently for sale.

We made up for my birthday meal by eating at the very popular and award winning BoatHouse restaurant near the moorings in Ardmish. Scallops, Lobster Tails, Fish and Chips and Fish Curry.

If you order Lobster, as one of our fellow diners did, the lobster is retrieved from a pot strung from the pontoon.  Very fresh and reasonable at £36 for a whole one.

31st July – Wednesday

We walked North as we had walked South the previous day, options are few.  Lovely countryside like we have at home.

The only shop, the Ardmish Stores does the best and largest ice creams.

We later had a chat to Robert and Liz on ‘Elimi’, she gave us some of her homemade bread and we had a drink prior to their visit to the BoatHouse.  Happy sailing.

Sailors Info: Isle of Gigha

There are regular ferries here, more popular with campers than campervans.  There is a camp site at Ardmish near the pontoon.

The pontoon at Gigha was built only two years ago and is therefore modern and substantial.  Beware the inner moorings are only 1.8m deep.

Fleur at the front of the pontoon.

Mick on the pontoon showing its size and length.

An honesty box system operates for payment.  The box on the right holds envelopes which explain the rules.  £20 for the pontoon, £15 for a mooring.  Some of the bigger ships cannot get into the pontoon.  A chart on the left explains the tidal heights and events and attractions.  Place your money in the envelope and post it into the secured box.

The island was bought by the islanders, currently 160 people live here.  In 2002 with grants and loans, the islanders paid £4million and the island is now part of the Gigha Heritage Trust. 

The facilities are adequate with a £1 charge for a 10 minute shower.  No wifi, no TV.  We really enjoyed our 3 nights here.  The mild climate was a welcome change.

1st August – Thursday – Gigha to Bangor Northern Ireland

We crept away from the pontoon at 5.20 with a couple of other boats heading south.  The light was good enough to dodge the moored boats and make our way out into the Sound, missing the rocks, we had been warned about.

The Mull of Kintyre, had mists rolling in from the sea….da de de….

The Mull is notorious with sailors and demands respect.  We registering 9.8 knots around the lighthouse, which gave us a sling-shot towards Northern Ireland.

The first 6 hours were pretty gloomy and then the sun came out.  The shipping channel was quite busy with ferries and tankers.  We saw 2 seals, 2 dolphins and a final Puffin.  Love Puffins!

 

Technically, we completed our 5 year unofficial circumnavigation today.  Above shows us crossing our track of 5 years ago on the electronic navigation system.

The N.I. coastline is dramatic and beautiful and we enjoyed it in the sunshine.  We arrived in Bangor at 16.00 after 65 miles.  A long but good day, with many renditions of ‘Mull of Kintyre’.

We are now having a break in Bangor.