Early June - Northshields, Newcastle and Eyemouth, Scotland

29th May 2019 - Wednesday - Hartlepool to Northshields, Newcastle

We are making a return trip to Royal Quays Marina, at Northshields near Newcastle.  We set off at 09.30 to make the 24.5 miles in just under 6 hours.  We were hopeful for a sunny day, but the clouds arrived, with a chill wind and showers.  We saw no other pleasure boats except large traffic all day.

The large breakwaters at the end of the Tyne are a welcome site, as is the Tynemouth Priory on the hill.

The high and low lights (towers) need to be lined up as you follow the channel buoys up the river.

We pass the North Shields Fish Market, along the Fish Quay where the best Fish and Chips are to be purchased.  You can't get fresher.

We reach Royal Quays by 15.00.  There is a large lock, with high floating pontoons.  So stepping ashore is a doddle.  The harbour-master met us in the lock and directed us to a berth.

In search of fish and chips, after a cold journey, we started to walk to the Fish Quay.  I remembered a figure head outside a pub, Mick doubted my sanity for a while, but then we found her.  Outside the Prince of Wales aka The Wooden Doll. There has been a wooden figure here for 200 years, the original was from a brig called the 'Alexander and Margaret' she became famous as a good luck charm for sailors who cut pieces from her for luck.  She obviously did not last long and has had several reincarnations, the latest was carved in 1992.

We ate in the 'Waterfront' café.  It has had a facelift since our last visit.  Think this may become the Fish and Chip Lovers UK blog.
30th May - Thursday
Two loads of washing in the morning.
In the afternoon we walked to Tynemouth.  The home of the priory and a pretty main street and lots of bespoke shops and cafes.  In particular two venues, one in an old church, with lots of small shops inside, the other a colourful display in a beautiful old house.

Tynemouth Priory

Tynemouth High Street, leading to the beaches.
Coffee and cake revived us in Rene's Café for the return journey in the drizzle.  15,000 steps.
31st May - Friday

We took the passenger ferry to South Shields, across the river, as neither of us had been.  £2.90 day return.

Just opposite the ferry we came across a market and I was very pleased to find the NE branch of my favourite fabric shop Immanuel's of Burnley.  We had a good chat with the stall-holders who were going to the bosses wedding the following day.
Sadly the day was quite overcast and showery.  We made our way along Market Street and nipped into the museum out of the rain.  It comprises a lively jumble of historic items from the area along with live Pythons and Tarantula's!
We walked to length of Ocean Street to the seaside beyond, where there is a large funfair and parks at the seaside.  There is also a Roman Fort which will have to wait for better weather.

We then sheltered in the new and impressive Museum of the Written word, which is a library, gallery and educational space.  There was an excellent display about coding through the ages.
Final stop was a large ASDA near the ferry port.  A good full day despite the weather.
Sailors Port Info.
Royal Quays has a lock to enter.  The pontoons are floating and very high, so set a couple of high fenders.

'The Loft' restaurant and facilities complex above has been built since our last visit.  Very swish, but still no sockets.  £3 wash and £2 dry but one set took two sessions of drying Grrr.  £30 per night, electric on meters.  Really nice marina staff with very poor local knowledge regarding washing times, supermarkets and white diesel. 

There is an ASDA in North Shields 15 min walk.  A large ASDA in South Shields across the ferry.  Wifi Poor.

1st June - Saturday - North Shields to Eyemouth, Scotland
The weather has really been affecting our moves recently and we moved to Eyemouth as the forecast for the following few days was poor.
We entered the lock at 4.45 with a local fishing boat.

The beautiful sunrise lit Tynemouth Priory to perfection.
Over the next 12 hours we past the Farne Islands, Lindisfarne and Holy Island.  It would have been nice to stop here but I think the weather in July would be more conducive.  The strong Eddies around the Farne Islands made for an interesting hour for helming.  We saw our first Puffins bobbing in the sea, along with numerous seals.  The day remained mostly bright with some cloud and chill wind.  We arrived at 16.15 after 65 miles.

Beware of the Hurkars, rocks at the entrance to Eyemouth.

A narrow entrance leads into the port, lined with vessels of all types.
The harbour-master directed us to the visitor pontoons where we were required to raft 3 deep.  We were moved the following day to be rafted two deep.  The local fishing and dive boats are busy and it felt better to be further into the side.  Mick was taken for a ride in the harbour-master's van as soon as we arrived to explain current difficulties regarding the broken footbridge and how to get around.  But he had to walk back!

As you can see it is a busy port.  Gungreen House on the left is a notable smugglers haunt and is open to the public.  The small castle on the right can be rented for accommodation.

2nd and 3rd June - Sunday and Monday
We had a good walk around and found a great General Store, which was endless and sold everything.  There are amusements and cafes sprinkled around.  We walked up onto the headland to the location of the Roman Fort, with spectacular views to the North.

View North from the Headland

It was entertaining to watch the resident seals beg for fish from the returning fishing boats.
We finished our last day with Fish and Chips at Giacopazzi.  In Scotland many Fish and Chip shops are also Ice Cream Parlours, a match made in heaven.

Sailors Port Info
Sadly the port is hampered at present, as the footbridge to the marina office and facilities is currently being replaced and will not be operational until at least the end of June.
The public loo's, which are the nearest at present, on the harbourside charge 30p. I think there should be an amnesty while the bridge is broken.  It is currently a 2 mile return walk to the showers and office.  The facilities are old fashioned and cost £1 (2 x 50p) per shower.
Dive boats are very busy in the harbor and do not appear to follow any speed restrictions, which causes wash for moored boats.  On Sunday at least 8 return trips were witnessed.  The dive and stay business is booming.
There are only 3 boat lengths reserved for visitor pontoons.  So expect to raft.
The Gungreen House and Local Museum are open to visitors.
There is a Coop shop in town near the sea front.  Wifi poor.

Next stop Edinburgh and the beautiful Firth of Forth.