Mid August 2020 – Fleetwood

9th August – Sunday – Whitehaven to Fleetwood

We left the lock at Whitehaven marina at 04.30.  Handling ropes in the dark is much trickier than normal.  We rounded St Bees head at first light.  The sea outside Whitehaven was still quite rocky.

Morning brew and one of Kay’s ginger biscuits.

Stop press… the sea became still and flat after St Bees head and we had a lovely 3 hours of relative stillness, watching the sunrise over Sellafield.

Sellafield Sunrise

Beautiful morning.

Barrow offshore windfarm was our next major landmark.  87 turbines with a capacity of 659MW, enough to power 600,000 homes. 

After the 3 hour lull the sea became choppy, making Fleur plough into the waves, which is a more comfortable ride than rolling.  With 20 knots of wind at times we made good progress past Heysham to join the navigation buoys which lead us into Fleetwood.

Mick’s careful calculations, planned for us to arrive just before high water, at the same time as a veritable fleet of pleasure craft were coming in the opposite direction, taking their chance of a quick sail on a sunny day before the tide turned.

We pass the lattice structure of the original Fleetwood lighthouse, and very carefully follow the channel towards the Wyre Estuary.

The channel curves dramatically East as we make our way past the Euston Hotel and the two lighthouses (above left), which used to be lined up in transit by sailors to mark the dredged channel.  We pass disconcertingly close to the shore and the sunbathers on the beach.

The shifting sands and lack of dredging since the ferries stopped mean that these lighthouse markers are not as accurate as they used to be, but certainly give you some confidence that you are aiming the right way. 

Another dog leg past the Knott End Ferry terminal, dodging 3 jet skiers, and we make our final right turn into the lock, which is on free flow.  The lockkeeper points us to our berth near the lifeboat and we tie up in the outer harbour at 15.20, 54 miles and 11 hours from Whitehaven.  The same journey by car is 116 miles.

10th August – Monday

Our 8th Wedding Anniversary.  The best restaurant in town was closed as it was Monday, so on recommendation we went to the best Eat In Fish and Chip restaurant instead.  The Fish House did not disappoint, and with Rishi’s contribution, a good price too.  So much so we have been back for 3 Monday nights so far.

11th August – Tuesday onwards

From here and for the next 2 weeks we have had a steady stream of visitors.  All people who had not been to the boat before but had shown an interest in doing so, over the period of our travels.  We were very lucky with the weather and very pleasant afternoons were had sitting around chatting and eating.  Fleetwood Freeport Outlet village is located just next door, so wallets may have been a bit dented too.  We had a really great time sharing Fleur with our friends, she will not be this close to home for a while after this, so we really appreciated people making the effort to join us and get a different perspective on our travels.

Over the next few days we orientated ourselves around and visited places from our childhood holidays.  I remember playing bowls with my dad on the greens near the Marine Hall.

Marine Hall and Gardens

Close up view of the Lower ‘Beach’ Lighthouse 13m, 1840 designed by Decimus Burton.

The Upper ‘Pharos’ Lighthouse 28m,  1839 designed by Decimus Burton

The three large halls of Fleetwood market were busy and thriving, which was great to see.

We walked along the promenade to Rossall Point Tower, we were obviously curious, as we had passed it by sea and it looks like it will fall over.  The Rossall Coastwatch Tower is used by volunteers to monitor the activity of mariners and beach users in distress.

The Mount Pavilion is a familiar Fleetwood landmark.  I remember it as a café and gallery.  It is currently undergoing a £2.4m refurbishment funded by the Lofthouse Family who own Fisherman’s Friend and the Heritage Lottery, to make a tearoom, education centre, exhibitions and function rooms.

For £3 each Fleetwood museum entertained us for a couple of hours.  Based in a Georgian Terrace, telling the tale of Fleetwood, its creation, fisheries and the famous Fisherman's Friend factory.  There is an unexpected treat at the end of the tour with a look on an old trawler, housed in a barn at the rear.  You are then steered through the second hand 50p bookshop.

20th August – To Blackpool by Tram – A Love Letter to the Fylde Coast

We both have family holiday history around Blackpool and the Fylde Coast, Fleetwood, Morecambe, Southport, Lytham, St Anne’s, Cleveleys and Bispham.  Both our parents had their honeymoons here.  As a child and throughout my life, when some families went to the lake district, we went to Blackpool and it’s neighbours.  Not all strictly Fylde Coast, but indulge me.

My grandad would give me a pounds worth of pennies to enjoy on the roll-a-penny and slot machines, a lot in the 1970s, when my mum and dad took them for a day out in the car.

We walked to the tram stop on Lord Street and took the 10.30 tram.

Our stylish new tram, they were introduced in 2012 and are equal to any we have seen on our travels.  Social distancing was well observed and upheld by the friendly but firm conductor.

We travelled the full length of the system to Starr Gate south of Blackpool, then hopped across the tracks and travelled back to the South Shore alighting at the Pleasure Beach.  It was great to see the buildings around the pleasure beach have been painted bright colours and look much improved.

The Art Deco entrance building to the Pleasure Beach with its high tech screen. 

The Big One, the worlds tallest and steepest roller coaster in 1994.  £12m, 74mph, 3.5G-force.  A ride originally cost us one pound.  Tickets for the park are required now.

Never too early for hot, freshly cooked donuts.  But they need to be walked off, so we set off down the beautifully appointed new promenade.

The tower looks a long way away.

More than £100m has been spent of the promenade and sea defence work, with stylish new railings.

South Pier

Central Pier

Wind Sculptures

Blackpool Tower, showing the Woolworth Clock, childhood destination for buckets, spades and off course flags.

The base of Blackpool Tower, home to the beautiful Tower Ballroom, of Strictly Come Dancing fame.

The Comedy Carpet sits in the shadow of the tower.  Immortalising and celebrating the songs, jokes and comedy catchphrases of Britain’s most well loved comedians and writers.  1880 square metres of laughter.  It will also be used for festivals and events, along with the new Wedding Chapel.

The Wedding Chapel.

We then ventured into the shopping and restaurant area, which has been pedestrianised from the Tower to the Winter Gardens.

After a coffee in the M&S café, we then made our way back to the promenade past the Grand Theatre.

The North Pier, home to many famous comedians.

We make our way to the sea and come across something neither of us had ever seen before.  The Middle Walk Colonnades, dating from 1925, they are 853m long, heading north towards Bispham.  We usually walk around the north shore or travel by car through the lights, so we did not know the lower promenade and its columns existed.

The Cliffs, one of the grand old hotels of the North shore.

The Tableaux represent the end of the illuminations and have been well preserved with year round maintenance.

The Hawaiian ladies who become animated when night falls.

The illuminations run the whole length of the promenade.  This year they are being kept on until March to extend the season and make up for the financial losses of the local businesses.  Great idea.

After more than 4 hours ‘Bispham Kitchen’ was a welcome site.  We brought both our parents here over the years.  They are known for enormous cakes, which I could never eat after the Fish and Chips.  My mum was known to take one home.

We boarded the tram at Bispham Station to take us back to Fleetwood.  A Grand Day Out for the price of £5.50 each for an all day Tram ticket.

Sailors Info: Fleetwood Marina

Take great care to prepare your navigation into Fleetwood, choose a good weather day and pay close attention to the buoys, which are moved as the sands shift.  Aim to be at the fairway buoy one hour before high water.  The lock gates open and close about one and a half hours before and after High Water. 

Located next to the Fleetwood Freeport, visiting boats are moored in the outer harbour.  The inner harbour has housed the fishing fleet and still is surrounded by one of the biggest Commercial Fish Markets in the country.

We have been her for 17 nights and they have flown.  The facilities are good on both sides of the lock, very clean and well appointed.  Washing machines and dryers are excellent and only cost £2.50.  The wifi is good.  Electricity is included.  The security is good.  Asda is a 10 minute walk. Shopping along Lord Street and a good Market Hall.  Ask locally about access to the Freeport from the marina.   At £21 per night Fleetwood is a little gem of a marina.

We have really enjoyed our time in Fleetwood and have seen the area with new eyes.  I can’t remember the last time I took a photo in Blackpool as it is so familiar, and it has been a pleasure to share it with you.

Early August 2020 – Stranraer to Whitehaven

1st August – Saturday

All the other visiting boats left today.  They were mostly going North, we are going South, but still concerning.  Have we done the sums right!

2nd August – Sunday

A 04.00 get up for a 4.30 start.  Loch Ryan is beautifully still when we leave just before first light. 

Corsewall Point Light House

We passed Port Patrick on our way to the Mull of Galloway.

Mull of Galloway Lighthouse

Mick passing another notable sailing landmark.

It was a little rolly outside Loch Ryan and the Mull of Galloway promised over falls.  We went around with the tide and the over falls were kind.  The Solway Firth however was not so forgiving.  The sea literally corkscrews the boat along.  The bow of the boat makes a corkscrew shape in the air as it passes over the waves. 

We arrived outside Whitehaven at 8.30pm after several hours of the corkscrew seas.  Mick managed to get the fenders out, but I had to wait until we passed the outer breakwater before I could quickly deploy the front mooring ropes.  On your toes right to the end of a long day.

Another larger boat was waiting to get into the lock and we were all bobbing.  The lockkeeper prefers there to be a metre more water under any boat, than their registered draft (depth).  We only have a 1.2m draft, so we were waved in first.  The other boat had been on a race to the Isle of Man and would be exhausted. 

The sea-lock at Whitehaven is large and well appointed.  The floating pontoons in the lock make mooring so much easier especially after a long trip.

85 miles and 17 hours later we moored up in Whitehaven.  Pie and peas and bed occurred soon afterwards.

3rd to 8th August

The next few days went by quickly despite the bad weather.  We paid a few visits to Wetherspoons to take advantage of Rishi’s deals.  On Wednesday we did try to go to another restaurant we have visited previously, but the good people of Whitehaven know a good deal when they see it and all of the more fashionable eateries were fully booked. 

Other local residents chillin’

On Thursday we met Nick and Lindsay on Moana who we first met last year in Whitehills.  They had wintered their boat on Kerrera, the small island opposite Oban.  Lockdown meant they spent much longer on the Island than planned!

On Friday our lovely friend Kay collected us and took us to the Woodland Tearoom nr Ravensglass.  We had a terrific lunch and a good catch-up.  She also made us some Ginger Biscuits, the best thing for seasickness.  They were delicious.

The Beacon Museum in Whitehaven Harbour.  Sadly currently closed.

Whitehaven Marina when the sun came out.  Marina office and facilities on the right.

On Friday we had a good walk up onto the south headland.

Sailors Info Whitehaven Marina

£156 for 7 nights.  Although the town itself is a little run down, the people are friendly and the time went quickly.

There are two main shopping streets, the highlight being Dixons, a proper old style department store. Asda, Tesco, Aldi and Morrisons are all walkable.  B&M and Home Bargains also.

The facilities in the marina building are good and clean, but the shower water is on the cool side. 

Wifi was intermittent.  Also 3 pins numbers to remember including the main gate.  Brain drain.

Next stop Fleetwood, in sunny Lancashire.

Late July 2020 – We’re Off. Troon to Stranraer

29th July – Wednesday – Troon to Stranraer

We are on our way at last.  An 08.00 start to make the 43 miles to Stranraer.

The log piles

We past the log piles for the final time for a while.  Ships arrive here loaded with logs which are off-loaded by a big grabbing machine.  They are then moved to the wood mill across the road.  Hence there are particles of wood and chippings in the air which land on the boats all the time.  There are also many lorries coming and going from the Wood Mill all day long.  Aeroplanes fly over from Prestwich too.  So not a haven of tranquility.  We are ready for a change.

Outside Troon is never a smooth ride.  Heading out past Lady Island, the sea rolled us around for a couple of hours.  So I was at the helm, having taken the seasickness pills.  After 10 months of not sailing anywhere this trip has brought on more pre-trip anxiety than normal.  But we soon realised that ‘It’s like riding a bike’.  The well oiled machine kicked into operation.  We know our jobs and get on with it.

I think the smile says it all.

The turbulence lasted for about 4 hours in the outer Firth of Clyde as we passed Ailsa Craig.

The sea calmed considerably as the sun appeared in the afternoon.  The approach to Loch Ryan was almost glassy.  No dolphins today, but our neighbours in Stranraer had been treated to an acrobatic dolphin display.

Loch Ryan looking out.

Loch Ryan dries out on the southern side, so don’t be tempted to stray right.

We arrived in Stranraer at 16.00.  The entrance is located near the old ferry terminal.  There is a breakwater on the right into the buoyed channel.

We were advised to take any berth by Lesley the Harbourmaster.  3 other visiting boats waved us in and took our lines.  Mission 1 complete.  Phew.

30th July to 1st August

The first day was very wet so we took the opportunity to do the washing, in the free washing machines in the marina complex.

Nice pub meal on Thursday night before my second Craft and Chat Zoom meeting afloat.  I usually really miss my craft and chat buddies and Zoom is a welcome bonus, acquired in this strange year.

We had a good walk along the side of the Loch and found Agnew Park and a lovely modern cafe with a sun terrace.  A glimpse of normality.

There are many of these small old fishing cottages all over town.  It would be so pretty if they all had an imaginative paint job.  There is a decent town centre with all the shops you would need.

The 16th century Castle St John is planted slap bang in the centre.  Sadly it is currently closed, as was the museum.

Fleur on her mooring after our neighbours departed.  We had a good chat with Mark and Leslie on Donagh Dee.  They are heading off on their sailing adventure next year and we hopefully answered some useful questions.

Sailors Info – Stranraer Marina

The harbourmaster Leslie Smith is the capable and amicable person in charge.

The marina complex is relatively new.  The church behind in the photo is a good marker for the entrance to the marina as you approach from the Loch.

The facilities are spotless.  The washing machine and dryer are currently free of charge, as the cost of conversion from old £ coins to new ones was not worthwhile. 

At £32 per night the marina is not cheap, but it is central to the town and well sheltered.

Morrisons and Tesco Extra are a 10 minute walk away.

There is no wifi.  There are electric sockets in the laundry for hair drying, if you don’t mind being on show.

We visited Stranraer for one night several years ago, it was raining and there was only one chip shop open.  This visit has given us a much better impression of Stranraer and we won’t hesitate to revisit.

The next hop is a big one, I don’t want to jinx it.