Mid August 2020 – Fleetwood

9th August – Sunday – Whitehaven to Fleetwood

We left the lock at Whitehaven marina at 04.30.  Handling ropes in the dark is much trickier than normal.  We rounded St Bees head at first light.  The sea outside Whitehaven was still quite rocky.

Morning brew and one of Kay’s ginger biscuits.

Stop press… the sea became still and flat after St Bees head and we had a lovely 3 hours of relative stillness, watching the sunrise over Sellafield.

Sellafield Sunrise

Beautiful morning.

Barrow offshore windfarm was our next major landmark.  87 turbines with a capacity of 659MW, enough to power 600,000 homes. 

After the 3 hour lull the sea became choppy, making Fleur plough into the waves, which is a more comfortable ride than rolling.  With 20 knots of wind at times we made good progress past Heysham to join the navigation buoys which lead us into Fleetwood.

Mick’s careful calculations, planned for us to arrive just before high water, at the same time as a veritable fleet of pleasure craft were coming in the opposite direction, taking their chance of a quick sail on a sunny day before the tide turned.

We pass the lattice structure of the original Fleetwood lighthouse, and very carefully follow the channel towards the Wyre Estuary.

The channel curves dramatically East as we make our way past the Euston Hotel and the two lighthouses (above left), which used to be lined up in transit by sailors to mark the dredged channel.  We pass disconcertingly close to the shore and the sunbathers on the beach.

The shifting sands and lack of dredging since the ferries stopped mean that these lighthouse markers are not as accurate as they used to be, but certainly give you some confidence that you are aiming the right way. 

Another dog leg past the Knott End Ferry terminal, dodging 3 jet skiers, and we make our final right turn into the lock, which is on free flow.  The lockkeeper points us to our berth near the lifeboat and we tie up in the outer harbour at 15.20, 54 miles and 11 hours from Whitehaven.  The same journey by car is 116 miles.

10th August – Monday

Our 8th Wedding Anniversary.  The best restaurant in town was closed as it was Monday, so on recommendation we went to the best Eat In Fish and Chip restaurant instead.  The Fish House did not disappoint, and with Rishi’s contribution, a good price too.  So much so we have been back for 3 Monday nights so far.

11th August – Tuesday onwards

From here and for the next 2 weeks we have had a steady stream of visitors.  All people who had not been to the boat before but had shown an interest in doing so, over the period of our travels.  We were very lucky with the weather and very pleasant afternoons were had sitting around chatting and eating.  Fleetwood Freeport Outlet village is located just next door, so wallets may have been a bit dented too.  We had a really great time sharing Fleur with our friends, she will not be this close to home for a while after this, so we really appreciated people making the effort to join us and get a different perspective on our travels.

Over the next few days we orientated ourselves around and visited places from our childhood holidays.  I remember playing bowls with my dad on the greens near the Marine Hall.

Marine Hall and Gardens

Close up view of the Lower ‘Beach’ Lighthouse 13m, 1840 designed by Decimus Burton.

The Upper ‘Pharos’ Lighthouse 28m,  1839 designed by Decimus Burton

The three large halls of Fleetwood market were busy and thriving, which was great to see.

We walked along the promenade to Rossall Point Tower, we were obviously curious, as we had passed it by sea and it looks like it will fall over.  The Rossall Coastwatch Tower is used by volunteers to monitor the activity of mariners and beach users in distress.

The Mount Pavilion is a familiar Fleetwood landmark.  I remember it as a café and gallery.  It is currently undergoing a £2.4m refurbishment funded by the Lofthouse Family who own Fisherman’s Friend and the Heritage Lottery, to make a tearoom, education centre, exhibitions and function rooms.

For £3 each Fleetwood museum entertained us for a couple of hours.  Based in a Georgian Terrace, telling the tale of Fleetwood, its creation, fisheries and the famous Fisherman's Friend factory.  There is an unexpected treat at the end of the tour with a look on an old trawler, housed in a barn at the rear.  You are then steered through the second hand 50p bookshop.

20th August – To Blackpool by Tram – A Love Letter to the Fylde Coast

We both have family holiday history around Blackpool and the Fylde Coast, Fleetwood, Morecambe, Southport, Lytham, St Anne’s, Cleveleys and Bispham.  Both our parents had their honeymoons here.  As a child and throughout my life, when some families went to the lake district, we went to Blackpool and it’s neighbours.  Not all strictly Fylde Coast, but indulge me.

My grandad would give me a pounds worth of pennies to enjoy on the roll-a-penny and slot machines, a lot in the 1970s, when my mum and dad took them for a day out in the car.

We walked to the tram stop on Lord Street and took the 10.30 tram.

Our stylish new tram, they were introduced in 2012 and are equal to any we have seen on our travels.  Social distancing was well observed and upheld by the friendly but firm conductor.

We travelled the full length of the system to Starr Gate south of Blackpool, then hopped across the tracks and travelled back to the South Shore alighting at the Pleasure Beach.  It was great to see the buildings around the pleasure beach have been painted bright colours and look much improved.

The Art Deco entrance building to the Pleasure Beach with its high tech screen. 

The Big One, the worlds tallest and steepest roller coaster in 1994.  £12m, 74mph, 3.5G-force.  A ride originally cost us one pound.  Tickets for the park are required now.

Never too early for hot, freshly cooked donuts.  But they need to be walked off, so we set off down the beautifully appointed new promenade.

The tower looks a long way away.

More than £100m has been spent of the promenade and sea defence work, with stylish new railings.

South Pier

Central Pier

Wind Sculptures

Blackpool Tower, showing the Woolworth Clock, childhood destination for buckets, spades and off course flags.

The base of Blackpool Tower, home to the beautiful Tower Ballroom, of Strictly Come Dancing fame.

The Comedy Carpet sits in the shadow of the tower.  Immortalising and celebrating the songs, jokes and comedy catchphrases of Britain’s most well loved comedians and writers.  1880 square metres of laughter.  It will also be used for festivals and events, along with the new Wedding Chapel.

The Wedding Chapel.

We then ventured into the shopping and restaurant area, which has been pedestrianised from the Tower to the Winter Gardens.

After a coffee in the M&S café, we then made our way back to the promenade past the Grand Theatre.

The North Pier, home to many famous comedians.

We make our way to the sea and come across something neither of us had ever seen before.  The Middle Walk Colonnades, dating from 1925, they are 853m long, heading north towards Bispham.  We usually walk around the north shore or travel by car through the lights, so we did not know the lower promenade and its columns existed.

The Cliffs, one of the grand old hotels of the North shore.

The Tableaux represent the end of the illuminations and have been well preserved with year round maintenance.

The Hawaiian ladies who become animated when night falls.

The illuminations run the whole length of the promenade.  This year they are being kept on until March to extend the season and make up for the financial losses of the local businesses.  Great idea.

After more than 4 hours ‘Bispham Kitchen’ was a welcome site.  We brought both our parents here over the years.  They are known for enormous cakes, which I could never eat after the Fish and Chips.  My mum was known to take one home.

We boarded the tram at Bispham Station to take us back to Fleetwood.  A Grand Day Out for the price of £5.50 each for an all day Tram ticket.

Sailors Info: Fleetwood Marina

Take great care to prepare your navigation into Fleetwood, choose a good weather day and pay close attention to the buoys, which are moved as the sands shift.  Aim to be at the fairway buoy one hour before high water.  The lock gates open and close about one and a half hours before and after High Water. 

Located next to the Fleetwood Freeport, visiting boats are moored in the outer harbour.  The inner harbour has housed the fishing fleet and still is surrounded by one of the biggest Commercial Fish Markets in the country.

We have been her for 17 nights and they have flown.  The facilities are good on both sides of the lock, very clean and well appointed.  Washing machines and dryers are excellent and only cost £2.50.  The wifi is good.  Electricity is included.  The security is good.  Asda is a 10 minute walk. Shopping along Lord Street and a good Market Hall.  Ask locally about access to the Freeport from the marina.   At £21 per night Fleetwood is a little gem of a marina.

We have really enjoyed our time in Fleetwood and have seen the area with new eyes.  I can’t remember the last time I took a photo in Blackpool as it is so familiar, and it has been a pleasure to share it with you.