Late July 2021 – Falmouth and Fowey

13th July – Tuesday – Newlyn to Falmouth

After consulting with John on Solera we chose to leave at 07:00am to make the 36 miles to Falmouth.  Sailors have their own ways of weighing up the appropriate time to leave and sometimes it pays to chat.  We rolled through 3 and a half hours of SW cross tide, across Mounts Bay.  Gingernuts were consumed before breakfast.  We were rolling so much our breakfast cereal made a valiant attempt to escape the bowl. 

We pass ‘The Manacles’ infamous rocks, to be avoided, as we approach Falmouth.

Entrance into Falmouth’s beautiful wide harbour in the sunshine.

Paying attention to miss more rocks, marked by Black Rock beacon.

Round Pendennis Point and a great view of Pendennis Castle.

Arriving in Falmouth at 2.30pm.  Which gave us a clear choice of moorings as everyone had just departed.  We moored on the outside of the Town Quay pontoon.  Lots more boats arrived later and we felt lucky to get a space so easily……... 

The Civil Service Yacht Club boat ‘Sea Essay’ arrived a short while later and rafted against us.  Being the Gents they are, they invited us for drinks.  Mostly ex Civil Service staff who have, via their Social Club, access to 3 sailing boats located around the country.  The boats are renewed every 3 years and are well used.  We enjoyed a jolly hour comparing notes and stories.  They stayed one night.

We ate out at Ploy Thai, near the marina, excellent.

14th July - Wednesday

A good re-orientation walk around Falmouth.

Colourful flags to cool the main street.

Alleys leading to the sea.

Ancient paths with Smugglers vibes.

Purchased a new soap dish to replace the one I left in Padstow, occupational hazard.  And new Deckies, mine have become slippery and that is no good.

I was delighted to see these ladies on their stall ‘Creative Mending’  they are part of the ‘Craftivism’ movement, which uses crafting in a modern and striking way to showcase good causes.  Currently ‘Stitch It, Don’t Ditch It’ is a mantra for not throwing things away prematurely.

Later in the day we saw ‘Cadoha’, a boat that Mick has been following online.  Their USP is their dog ‘Hank’ which looks like Scooby Doo.  Mick managed to speak to them on the fuel berth.  Nice to touch base with people you feel you know.

15th July – Thursday

We walk passed the Maritime museum towards the beaches on the other side of Pendennis Point. 

Gyllyngvase Beach looking North-ish.

Gyllyngvase Beach looking South-ish.

Lovely cool coastal path on a baking hot day.

Finally Swanpool Beach.  It was lovely to see people enjoying the beaches.  We felt we could be anywhere in the world.

St Mary’s Gardens gave welcome shade on the way back.  The sunshine here makes for huge plants.

St Mary’s Gardens Folly

Back to Castle Beach for a second look.

To end a beautiful day we were invited for drinks on ‘Solera’ with John and Val.  They rafted up to us after their overnight detour up the Helford River.  We have met in Cherbourg, Cuxhaven and last week in Newlyn.  Great to catch-up and and compare stories.  I am sure we will see them again soon to reciprocate.

16th July – Friday

Big walk to Sainsbury's with a bonus McDonalds breakfast.

17th July – Saturday

We first met Jeremy and Tricia in Ipswich and spent many a cosy afternoon chatting on their Motor Yacht ‘Tudora’.  They have since been the proud owners of a spectacular Fifth Wheel Caravan.  They are now home for a well earned rest.

They collected us from the Museum and we travelled the narrow roads of Cornwall to their home village, for a quick tour of the church before lunch.

Penwarne Barton Farm for lunch at the farm café.

With great views over the sea.

Another baking day, so we retired to the garden of their beautiful house.  Lovely spot for a cool drink and more chatting.  Then they dropped us off back in town.

Thank you so much to you both.  Looking forward to our next meet up. XXX

19th July – Monday

Evie’s second birthday.  Lovely video call yesterday.  Big Hugs.

Falmouth is a major shipping port, from the boat we watched this Royal Auxiliary tanker being turned by 4 tug boats.

In the afternoon when the sun wasn’t quite so hot we walked to Pendennis Castle and walked around the Moat.

It was too late in the day to visit the Castle.  Maybe next time.

20th July – Tuesday

On a scorching day it seemed a good idea to shelter in the National Maritime Museum.

The vast main gallery makes an immediate impression.

Notable items being ‘Father’s Day’ the smallest boat to cross the Atlantic.  Only a sitting position was possible for helming and sleeping!!!!

Also good to see for real was Sir Ben Ainslie’s 2012 Olympic Winning dinghy.

The famous ‘Boaty McBoatface’.

Prior reading told us we could go to the top of the Museum Tower for a spectacular view.  Including our ‘Fleur’ on her exposed outer pontoon.

Super yacht ‘Legend’ a 77m ex Russian Ice Breaker, with a £46m refit into a superyacht.  Watching her being pulled out of the harbour by tugs the day after was also entertaining.

The main exhibition for the year was about Monsters of the Deep, more for the children.  The rest of the museum was usual maritime museum items.  Pre-booking is currently essential.  Entrance fee £15 each.  An enjoyable way to spend a couple of hours out of the heat.

Trevor and Rebecca appeared on ‘Dignity II’ and rafted to us.  They are also on their summer trip.  We last saw them in Heiligenhafen in Schleswig-Holstein in Germany on our Baltic trip.  They were on their way back from Sweden.  We first met them in Padstow and again in Ipswich.  Another good catchup, they stayed one night.   Good luck with your big adventure next year.

22nd July – Thursday

There are high winds forecast.  Mick, the harbour managers and staff and other boat owners spent most of the day moving boats and fending off new arrivals.  Only two boats were allowed to raft on the outer pontoon.  We had been rafting 3 deep the previous night and he was asked to move.

Yacht ‘Mabelann’ on the inside of the pontoon, loaned us two of their spare large fenders. 

We usually have 3 fenders on each side.

9 Fenders between ourselves and ‘Wizard’ owned by John and Maz, rafted to us.

We went to the Finn McCool pub, (named after an Irish mythical hunter-warrior) where you can buy a pint and eat your Fish and Chips, purchased around the corner.

23rd July – Friday

It was a very rocky afternoon, the boats bucking on their mooring ropes.  Very uncomfortable to be on board, we only went for a short walk, just to be relieved of the motion.  Mick also bought new deck shoes from the Discount Shoe store.  DEK deck shoes £39.99.

I went to the free museum above the Library, again for relief from the motion.  Very much worth a visit.

Falmouth has been very sociable.

24th July – Saturday – Falmouth to Fowey

We first returned the loaned Fenders to yacht ‘Mabelann’.  Very much appreciated and a sign of sailor’s helping each other in a storm.  Enjoy your onward adventures.  Thank you.

Mick decided it was time to move on after a rough couple of nights in the windy conditions.  We uncoupled ourselves from Wizard, by loosening the ropes and us slipping backwards into the now clear space behind.  Nice to meet you ‘Wizard’, I am sure we will meet again.

The idea was to move today and maybe have a worse ride, so that we got a full day in Fowey on Sunday.  Before moving to Plymouth on Monday, as we had booked a berth, due to high demand for spaces.

We set off at 10.00am and arrived at 16.30pm after 23 rough and swelly miles.  3m swell and rough seas with 20 knots of wind and a cross tide, made for a bumpy ride.

I spent 3 hours at the helm as did Mick to help with the seasickness.  

Fowey Castle was a welcome site.  The afternoon had brightened, but the sea continued to roll.

This guy gave us a start as he blended into the sea, in the middle of the channel.  Please stick to the side folks.  His oar was mostly in the water and his board was hidden in the swell.

We were lucky to get a space on Number 2 pontoon in the River Fowey.  The harbourmaster came to collect his dues.

After a challenging day we ate onboard and enjoyed the calm of the river pontoon.  Until the cruise ships appeared!

Island Sky and Hebridean Princess were quiet neighbours on the whole.  They usually spend their summers in Scotland, but Nicola Sturgeon did not want them in Scotland so they are happily plying their trade down here.

25th July – Sunday – The Joy of Fowey (pronounced FOY)

By morning we had the pontoon to ourselves.

We took a water taxi into town at 11.30am.  Hailed on VHF Channel 6.  £5 per person return.

The classic Fowey shot on landing.  Red brick British Legion building and pink pub.

We first walked right towards the car ferry.

Car ferry to Polruan, across from Fowey.  Very pretty Blue and White ‘Ferryside’ house.

Ice Cream shop.

RNLI Dog, made of old wellies.

We then walked through town and up towards the Castle and another Castle Beach.

View from the castle towards Fowey.

From inside the castle.  Which is very similar to Clitheroe Castle.  Worth the many steps.

After the walk to the castle and back we were ready for lunch.

I had read in a leaflet from Becky and Trevor that the Gallant Sailing Club was a good place for a weary sailor to rest up.  The showers are open and visiting sailors are made welcome.

We spent the next 2 hours eating a wonderful Roast Duck lunch with all the trimmings, for only £12 each and then read the papers on the balcony overlooking the river.   Yacht clubs are known for reasonable meals and we were more than satisfied.

We waddled out to have pudding, Ice Creams at Rosie’s, then the return taxi ride at 4.00pm.  Followed by a little snooze on deck.  Epic Day.  We love Fowey.  Made yesterday’s long day worthwhile. 

Mick cleaned the fenders after their battering in Falmouth.

Sailors Info – Falmouth Town Quay

Our stay in Falmouth was greatly enhanced by Chris on Motor Boat ‘Allegra’, moored across on the inside of the pontoon.  He had moved back from France to be near family and was enjoying his days living aboard and chatting to visiting sailors, offering his sage advice and vast knowledge of all things floating.  We wish you well Sir.

£30 per night.  Deal for 7 nights or more.  Try to get on an inside pontoon if Easterly winds are due.

Descent facilities with Laundry and Dryers.  £4.50 and £1 dry.  No plugs at all.  Wifi poor on jetty’s.

Tesco Express nearby, Sainsbury’s a 35 minute walk.

The town street is delightful and has every shop you will ever need.

We could happily live in Falmouth.

Fowey Harbour

2 x pontoons and a shore pontoon for short stays of 2 hours max.  Many visitor buoys.

Water Taxi £5 return.  No wifi.  Small Mace supermarket.  Many other shops for all your Pasty and Ice Cream needs.  Pubs and clothes shops.

The harbourmaster collects the dues via boat.  No electric or water, but there are bins on the pontoons, we took our rubbish with us.

Gallant Sailing Club gives a warm welcome with great food and excellent staff.

Next stop Plymouth