6th June – Friday - D-Day 70th Anniversary

70 years ago today my father James William Proud came to France in a landing craft as part of the D-Day landings.  He was 19 years old and this was his first experience of war.  He had spent the beginning of the war as a member of the Home Guard (a version of private Pyke from Dad’s Army) with his father, my granddad, who had served in the first world war.  They were armed with brush handles and spent many hours on Hambledon hill in Hapton, nr Burnley watching out for the enemy.

His father obviously did not encourage him to join up as he himself had experienced war and was in no hurry for his son to experience it.  But Jim being Jim was desperate to join as did so as soon as he reached 18 years old.  He then spent months in the south of England and at various camps learning to be a soldier, and what no one knew, waiting for D-Day.  He spoke of time learning bridge building with the Royal Engineers and did various courses including first aid. 

The younger photo was taken at a local photographers on his first leave after basic training.  His mum could not believe how he had grown in the 12 weeks he had been away.  The truth was it was the first time in his life he had eaten 3 meals a day, even the canteen staff commented how much bread he was able to shift.  Many Lancashire families were very poor and his family were no exception.

He said the landing craft were very rocky and many of the men were sick, he was actually glad to get off.  He did not go into great detail of what he saw, we can only image the horror.  He landed at Sword beach and from there they progressed quickly to Caen, which was a major bridging point which needed to be captured.  Of the 300 men in his original regiment the South Staffordshires, the 30 remaining were transferred to the Gordon Highlanders, with whom he spent the rest of the war.  He was given a field promotion to Corporal during this time.

However traumatic these times were he did look back on them as some of the best of his life and made a life long friend in Ken O’Brien who he was in touch with all their lives.  He went onto Palestine after the war where he learned to drive a motor bike and then Heavy Goods Vehicles, which gave him his livelihood for most of the rest of his working life.

As many of you know, he was a challenging older person, but Mick always said ‘Who are we to tell him what to do, after what he went through he can please himself’. 

Jim Proud – 1925 to 2010

3rd June –Tuesday–Aber Wrac’h to Camaret

Again a weather window presented itself so off we go.  Started at 10.30 and arrived at Camaret at 16.30.
The highlight of this journey was the passage through the Chenal Du Four which according to the pilot books can be quite a challenge.  Like the French version of Lands End, it being the Western most tip of France.  The sea runs between the mainland and the Isles of Ouessant

The channel is very well marked and although we made several waypoint changes the trip was far less eventful than anticipated.
I steered for most of the day, it started out cloudy and after about an hours rain we had a clear sail to Camaret, passed the lighthouse at Point de St Mathieu, with its ruined Monastery and Radio Station clearly visible from the sea.

Camaret has been a big thing in Mick’s head as a port of call during the planning stages of this trip and a small dream came true as we headed into port.
Camaret is a small fishing town, twinned with St Ives.  It has a sizeable community of Artisans in all kinds of Arts and Crafts, who live in the tiny back streets and alleyways.

Walked to the supermarket and round the splendid harbour-side chandlery.  Looking not buying as quite expensive, but great snoop shopping.
On returning, we heard a commotion and a thud, guess who?  Last of the Summer Wine the Return.  Their family had already arrived, but at this point they all left quickly.  A couple of hours later the elders returned for another attempt.  Mick stood on our boat as they skimmed passed on their first try, one actually shaking his hand on the way past, another clumsy pirouette and two more attempts at the pontoon and they were in.  Quite a meerkat crowd had gathered by this point. 
5th June – Thursday
Washing and Cleaning while Mick collected Diesel in cans.  He uses a trolley to take the empty can to the Supermarket petrol station as it is cheaper than at the Marina.  Unfortunately his trolley took a trip of its own into the water, and we were not able to retrieve it.  The marina is 15m deep at high tide and still 10m at low tide.  Oops.  This is our first big loss, I have watched a few pegs sink and my washing now has many pegs to make sure it does not go the same way.
Watched a very good TV programme of D-Day in colour, did not understand much but the pictures were amazing.  We are trying to watch French news programmes as like Sky in the UK they have a written commentary below.  We find it much easier to read French than understand the spoken word, but like babies we are trying to listen as much as possible and soak up some snippets.  Supermarkets make life easier as the items are identifiable and we understand enough to make out how much to pay at the end.
We asked the man who collects the money at the marina (a bit like a bus conductor) if there was wifi.  He looked as us strangely and then said ‘Ah WeeFee’, its only a vowel but it is amazing how different they can make it sound.

31st May/1st June – Sat/Sun – Falmouth to Aber Wrac’h, France Overnight

We set sail for France at 10.30am on a flat calm sunny day.  This was a little sooner than we had planned, it is 105 miles, so 3 times further than your average Channel crossing.  We were fully expecting to go to the Channel Islands but having been delayed in Howth (Dublin) and Padstow we made the decision to go to France as we had a weather window which would allow for destination changes if required.

The wind got up to approx. 15-20 knots from 17.00 to 23.00 and the boat was much more roly during this time.  The boat rolls due to the tides going across us and so there was a period where the journey was not too comfortable.  I was not sick this time but felt pretty weary for about half of the crossing.  Again we had a hot meal on standby but neither of us managed it.  The sandwiches were consumed mostly on arrival.  Mick slept 22.00 to midnight and I slept 00.30 to 03.00, then Mick slept again 04.00 to 06.00.  There was a new crescent moon, so no added moonlight, but that meant we were able to see thousands of stars in the pitch black night.

Approximately two thirds of the way across we sailed through the shipping channels.

See below a screen snapshot of the Electronic Mapping system, which Mick uses to plot the course, and also shows other ships in the area on the AIS system.  I think most people will be quite surprised at the number of ships to be encountered in the middle of the night.  Each one of the ships is displayed as a triangle and the jagged circle appears, and alarms, if a ship is within a pre-defined distance from our boat.  Hovering the mouse over a ship displays its name, what type of ship it is, Cargo or Passenger, its tonnage and destination.  It is really fascinating.

 

We raised our French courtesy flag just off the coastline and sang a warbling/humming version of L’ Marseilles for added gravitas.

One of the things I am getting to grips with in this longer distance sailing world is the fact that you plan a 21 hour passage with major consideration to the weather and the tides.  The crew however, have to rest as much as they can beforehand and then sleep as and when during the trip.  I mention sleep again, as for this leg it was really important that Mick was on full power on arrival.

Aber Wrac’h is a small fishing town which in the last 20 years has increased the size of the marina and visitors pontoons to accommodate passing sailors.  It puzzles me that so many sailors take this option, as there are literally hundreds of Rocks and Small Islands on the coast line when entering the harbour which is situated about 5km up the river surrounded by more rocks.

It is used because it has all weather access at all states of the tide.  It is though, still quite a challenge.  There are very large lighthouses (always a big clue) on the headland which guide you in, one of which flashes every 5 seconds.  The passage planning books (in this case ‘The Shell Channel Pilot’ by Tom Cunliffe) give clear instructions and pilotage.  The channel is well marked with Large Buoys but several changes of course are required as there are rocks at each side.  Did I mention the Rocks? 

 

Just to add to the anxiety a mist had settled on the mouth of the river.  There was also a large number of small, pedlo/canoe type fishing craft making their way out to sea.  (We found out later this was a Canoe-Fishing Competition – lucky us!!).  It was hard enough being tired and anxious about hitting rocks, then having the added tension of not squashing small craft with our boat.

It may be worth googling Aber Wrac’h on google maps to see the number of rocks and small islands around the entrance.

Arrived in Aber Wrac’h at 08.00, tired but jubilant at having arrived safely en France.

Whilst tired we had a go at putting together suitable French phrases to visit the Harbourmaster and pay for the mooring, as they did not open until 09.00am.  I attempted some courtesy’s but the lady spoke perfect English, so no more attempt was required.  We returned to the boat and slept until the afternoon.  Had a walk around the small village and retired to eat the Lasagne we had brought, watched some French TV and back to sleep.

2nd June – Sunday

Walked to Landeda which is the town most local to Aber Wrac’h.  We think they may have the same Mayor as the other local larger town of Lanellis is not mentioned anywhere on any signposts.  20 minute walk to Landeda to find a few shops, mostly closed as it was Monday.  Then saw a signpost for Lanellis or rather Aldi and Briochmat (? B&Q).  Another 50 minute walk on a busy roadside to get to Lanellis.  The secret town was more open and about 4 times the size of Landeda.

We found a ‘Casino’ supermarche, which on first appearance looked derelict but on entering was comprehensively stocked.  We bought Pork Escalopes for tea and some bread and pate.

We then found a bench in the town square and ate the pate and bread, using fingers for pate spreading, sipping fruit juice and feeling like Kings.  Very happy.

Local, very clean amenities meant clean hands for our journey back, a walk back much improved and hastened by our sense of wellbeing and fill of pate.  On returning we found many more boats had arrived, we were told there was a race to Plymouth the next day.

At approx 18.30 a boat was rafted up against ours.  They were very pleasant elderly French people who were travelling in their boat whilst their younger family members were in another racier boat.  Their arrival was quite eventful with lots of shouting and a quickly diverted crash, avoided by ourselves and their younger family members fending them off as best we all could. Phew.

They turned out to be really nice people and the presumed owner of the boat asked us where we were going, then him and his daughter proceeded to tell us at great length, whilst also insisting we brought our charts to further their explanations, of the best places to visit.

The courtesy when rafting on another boat is for the people on the outside to cross onto your boat in the centre and then walk around the front to avoid any embarrassment that may occur by looking into your cabin.  Three of the four people on board their vessel were not really agile enough for this and processed across our boat cockpit all evening, occasionally looking in and saying hello, along with their families, their food, their drinks and at one point their washing up!!  This lasted until midnight with much lively conversation amongst the family.  The toilet procession began at 6.40am and continued until they left at 10.00am.  It was like a Nautical French version of ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ or ‘Vintage Vin Rouge sur la Mer’.

30th May – Friday – Falmouth Cont… Pre Channel – Final Days in UK

29th May – Thursday

Played tourists for the day.  Had a good walk around Falmouth’s streets and alleyways.  There are lots of little alleys going up and down from the harbour-side to the main street.  Must mention ‘Trago’ the most comprehensive, independent department store we have ever been in.  What didn’t they have.  It is situated almost at the end of the Main Street.  More ‘Pesto’ pasties, salad for tea.

30th May - Friday

We did our last big shop in the UK before leaving for France.  It was a 2 granny trolley plus 2 bag affair.  We have been slowly stocking up on teabags (currently 1,000) for a few weeks, but there is only so much room en le bateau.  We are led to believe that toiletries and pharmacy items are more expensive across the water, so it was really more that kind of thing, and items that we are particularly fond of.  Managed to find Eccles cakes and Egg Custard Tarts.  Then we had to find a place for everything.

Quick walk to McDonalds to spend our last free coffee voucher and snitch a bit of free wifi.

Ye Olde Traditional Sainsbury’s Indian Meal Deal for Two followed by Custards. Yum.

 

27th May–Tuesday–Newlyn to Falmouth

We had a good sleep and got up to say goodbye to Gordon and Louise on Camira, who were staying another day and then heading to France.  We hope our paths cross again in the future, as we enjoyed their company and shared the similar life experiences which we had all taken to meet on our journeys south.

Beautiful day for a sail.  We left Newlyn at 10.00am and set course to view St Michael’s mount on the other side of Mount’s Bay.

We then progressed towards Lizard Point dodging anchored ships and many, many lobster pots.  Once again the tide was with us from Lizard Point onwards and we sailed into Falmouth harbour arriving at 17.30pm.

As there was a large regatta in progress there was no room for us at the Town Quay visitors pontoons so we progressed up the river to the large Falmouth marina, where we re-fuelled and tied up.  The Marina has very good facilities, chandlery and excellent showers.

28th May – Wednesday

In preparation for our departure to France Mick checked the engine and changed both the engine and gearbox oils and filter.  On running the engine after this service we could hear a small clunk as the boat was put into gear coming from the prop shaft.  Mick thought the shaft anodes may have come loose but could not understand how.  So we deployed for the first time our USB underwater bullet camera (£10 from Ebay) taped to the end of the telescopic deck brush handle, taped to the end of the boat hook.  We could then whilst perched on the pontoon, one holding the laptop and one holding the pole, manipulate the camera to get a view of the underside of the boat.  Keyhole surgery must require much more finess.  Once we had verified on the laptop screen what was up and what was down, we found the prop shaft and saw that the anode was still in place.  We worked our way down the prop shaft and could see wrapped round the propeller a mass of fibrous material.  The boat is fitted with a rope cutter, which cuts through any rope that would stop the propeller going round, but does not remove debris.

There are now 2 options.  1. Ring the marina and have the boat craned out (approx £200) or 2. Put on the diving gear and jump in.  We decided to sleep on it.

29th May – Thursday

As £200 represents one months pasties and we are both qualified divers, a quick dip to investigate seemed the best option.  Mick donned his dry suit and mask and armed with his new Sailing Knife (a great leaving present – thanks) he entered the water

and returned 50 seconds later clutching a clump of fishing rope and netting.

He spent the next 10 minutes scrubbing blue antifoul off the dry suit and was hosed down.  This was much easier in a calm marina than in a rolling boat at sea.  We were lucky to have found this before we set off on an overnight trip to France.

Became tourists for the rest of the day.  Falmouth is also worth a visit.

26th May–Monday - Padstow to Newlyn

We wanted to leave early in the morning at first light, so the lock opens 2 hours before and after high tide we had to time it so that we left at 4:40am on Bank Holiday Monday the 26th May.

Leaving just after high water gave a following tide for the first 6 hours of the trip and the correct timing to round Lands End in order to gain a fair tide to Newlyn.

When we arrived in Padstow there was a heavy mist 1 mile out, and therefore the outward passage was much more scenic, as we could see the rocky and dramatic coastline, with its off lying rocks and islands.

By lunchtime we were passing St Ives bay and by one o’clock the Longships Lighthouse at Lands End.  There are 2 routes around the Longships rocks the inner and the outer which we took.

Slightly choppy sea in the morning, but we rounded the Runnel Stone within 10 minutes of our estimated ETA.

We arrived in Newlyn Fish Harbour at 17.30.  The harbourmaster was pleasant enough and told us where the facilities were, but we could not find them.  They turned out the be the fishermen’s toilets, so the £18 mooring fee was literally just for rafting to another boat.  Newlyn is not advertised as a Marina for yacht but proved a very welcome stopping point.

We walked to Penzance which was lovely and then collapsed back into the boat with a bag of chips for chip butties.  Long Day.

Penzance and Newlyn run into each other and whilst passing Penzance on the way in it was obvious from the crowd and the noise that there was an event taking place.  The locals were trying for a World Record of having the most Pirates in the same place at once.  There were bands, stalls and much jollity, including pirates of all ages and baby buggy pirate ships.  Unfortunately the record was not broken having been found to be 77 pirates short of the 14,000 required for the record. 

We had no desire to stay in the fish dock and so pressed on to Falmouth.  The boat got very dirty from soot specs from the fishing boats.

Padstow Cont..

21st to 25th May

Stayed in Padstow waiting for weather and tides.  Much time was spent deliberating the timing between Pasties, Ice Creams and Fish and Chips. Time was also passed cleaning, making bears, starting the work-shirt quilt, washing, shopping (large Tesco at the top of the hill), route-planning, reading, talking to the holidaymakers who occupy the benches around the harbour-wall, chatting to other boaters, walking and generally having a nice time.  We would both highly recommend Padstow as a place to visit.  Cheap mooring and friendly staff in excellent facilities.