24th July – Thursday – Treguier to Paimpol

Nice 11.30 start to Paimpol from Treguier.  A very still day with no swell, but an overlying mist which did not clear until after midday.  Arrived 16.45 after 25 miles of motor-sailing.

The arrival was interesting as you have to negotiate the channel, which showed only 2.5m of water under the keel at some points.  We have our depth gauge set to show the depth when the keel is down, as it is normally up we are always well within our limits, but its still nerve wracking to see such low numbers.  The picture was taken the day after showing the ‘channel’ at low/no water.  The second picture shows the lock full of water on the right and the tide out on the left.

The next excitement is the lock.  Everyone obviously calculates their arrival to coincide with the lock opening.  So everyone gathers in the channel outside the lock, in the low water, and waits for it to be opened. 

The right hand side had been filled by the time it was our turn and we were second in the middle section.  The outer boat grabs a rope which hangs down the side of the lock and uses a slack rope to allow their boat to move up and down in the lock.  We then rafted onto them. 

The French boat behind caused quite a fuss and took a while to get settled.  They had chosen to be further back in the lock but the lady lock-keeper made them move forward.  I don’t know where the lady had left her vintage motor car, but she had brought the hat.

Once the lock gates are open, there is then a charge to find a berth.  The local fishermen, in the small motor boats, power past everyone and the dory boat then directs operations to make sure everyone gets to the appropriate berths, for the size of their boat.  We were lucky this time to get a jetty with no one raftering onto us.  Paimpol is very popular and some people were rafting 3 a brest from the harbour wall.  Pays to get in early.

Paimpol is a pretty harbour town, like a big Padstow.  We had our orientation walk and ice-creams.

25th July – Friday

Walked around on Friday and found this bonkers, china shop.  Floor to ceiling pottery, with narrow walkways.  I held my breath and grabbed hold of my bag on the way in the breathed out as I left.

There are several pretty streets and lots of nice shops.

Info: 26 Euros per night.  Two supermarkets, a Carrefour city in the centre and a larger Intermarche, through the tourist office and turn right about 500m.  The facilities were free, clean and new.

26th July - Saturday

This was a doing day, haircut for Michael, washing, supermarket, then a walk at low water to take the pictures of the channel shown above.

Troop ‘Demijon’ arrived today, so had a good chat and met their friends who had worked around Ipswich, which we know well.

22nd July – Tuesday – Trebeurden to Treguier

We passed over the sill at 11.45, 10 minutes after opening, as we have a lifting keel and only a 1.1metre draft.  The larger boats had to wait a while.

This was a rare sunny and windy day and we had a perfect sail for several hours arriving in Treguier at 16.00.

‘Bondie Cruises’ turned into ‘Bondie River Cruises’ today as we navigated 5 miles up the river to Treguier.  The river is well buoyed, but buoys are ignored at your peril.  There are mudflats on both sides of the river.

Info: The marina has a dory boat but David and Eileen had reserved us all some spaces.  ‘Demijon’ is a racing boat and therefore landed about 1 hour before us, having left after us.  The marina is 27.40 Euros per night.  Older facilities incorporate ‘toilet chain pull’ showers, which is a self inflicted shock of water each time you pulled the chain.  The setting is very peaceful and we fully understand now, why people who have been coming here for years, head up the rivers.

Treguier is worth a visit.  The medieval town streets with timber framed houses wind up from the riverside, through squares to the Cathedral square.  We stopped for a glass of wine and admired the surroundings. 

Back at the marina we were invited onto ‘Demijon’ as they had invited some French people on board from a new Beneteau 38.  Turns out the Frenchman had crossed the Atlantic 2 handed, so there was lots to talk about.  We never made it back to the boat for dinner and kept nipping back for supplies.  Jolly good evening had by all.

23rd July – Wednesday

Market day in Treguier.  It starts at the harbour-side square and makes its way up to the Cathedral.   We were tempted by the local cakes as we walked ‘Kouign-Amann’ a flaky, buttery cake which was slightly chewy.  Wow. For dinner I bought a slice of Porcelet, which is a terrine, cooked inside a suckling pig skin, for dramatic effect.  8 Euros but worth every penny.  The stall had a big queue and with good reason.

The town squares advertised a Celtic Festival in the evening, so after the Porcelet, up the hill we went.  The town streets were packed and there was a real festival atmosphere.  More Moules and Frites being eaten by the locals.  In one square the local drum and pipe band was playing.  In the main square another drum and pipe band and stalls all the way.  The pipers walked off through the crowd and a Gaelic duo did a turn, pipers returned and then a Celtic band from Canada. 

The locals dance in circles, and there was one elderly lady showing the steps to children.  When the music started she joined the large circle and she visibly lit up, shades of her youth and lovely to see.

What a treat.

21st July – Monday – Roscoff to Trebeurden

Having stopped for Diesel in Roscoff we set off at 09.00 to complete the 18 miles to Trebeurden, arriving at 12.05.  The sea was very roly poly, no wind and sunny, so another motor-sail.

Entry into Trebeurden is over a sill, which is only assessable when the depth of water is over 4.5 metres.  On the 21st this occurred between 10.00 am and 17.00 therefore we aimed to arrive at lunchtime.   Traffic lights indicate when it is safe to go over the sill.

It is slightly strange going through gates, when there appears to be water at each side, this area is generally for dinghies only.  Beware.  The harbour is sheltered by a wall and the surrounding area dries to show many rocks.  The town is small and up a large, steep hill.

Info: Sill see above. 37 Euros per night.  There are acceptable older facilities here.  A small shop sells drinks and bread and there is a pizzeria.  There is an Intermarche supermarket at the very top of the town, 30 minutes uphill.

We moored next to ‘Demijon II’, ‘Shades of Blue’ and ‘Lily’ who are traveling together.  We had a quick drink and a chat on ‘Demijon’ after Dinner.

19th July – Saturday – Brest to Roscoff

04.20 get up for a 4:45am start.  12 hour day to complete the 66 miles arriving 16.30.

We had to set off in the dark very early to catch the river tide out of Brest and ensure we timed the tide correctly to navigate through the Chenel du Four.

Early in the morning there was a slight mist, by the time we got to the Chenel it was thick fog.  The sea was very still and the Chenel undercurrent came was we passed through.  There was between 10 and 50 metres visibility and we were relying solely on electronic navigation to see us through the passage.  The tide was running at 4 knots and we achieved 8.3 knots over the ground, not being able to see much past the front of the boat, negotiating the swell and current, which was trying its best to take us off course.  I steered through this section and was quite anxious for most of the time.  We occasionally glimpsed other boats in the mist and once a motor boat came from nowhere and was only 20 metres from our port side.

Interestingly, the fog was so thick it made a water vapour covering over everything on the boat, including ourselves, I actually had dew on my eyelashes and eventually took off my glasses as they we constantly misted.  The mist occasionally gathered to make large water droplets, like big very clumsy raindrops.  We had never seen anything like this before.

It must be noted at this point that the weather forecast gave clear skies with 5 miles visibility for today.  In the middle of the morning the French coast guard came over the radio to advise everyone that fog had been reported and to navigate with care!  Horse…Bolted!

Above shows the navigational instruments, during Chenel du Four.  Left - Baring to Waypoint 339, Course Over the Ground 335, Speed over the Ground 8.5 knots (usually 4 or 5), Distance to Waypoint 2.03 Nautical Miles.  Right – Depth 14.8 metres, Speed through the water 4.7, Distance travelled 11.50 nm.  The tide was increasing our speed over the ground by 4 knots.

Just after the Chenel the fog cleared for about 20 minutes and then came down again.  So much so that ourselves and the other sailors were using our air-horns at assess distances between ourselves.

When the mist finally cleared we had a sunny, clear run into Roscoff.  It being a Saturday many local people were out fishing in their small crafts, so the afternoon was spent dodging fishermen, who do not appreciate you getting too close to their lines, but who also set off or change direction at a seconds notice straight into our path without a thought.  We smiled and waved!

We arrived at Roscoff and were met by the dory who sent us to ‘F’ pontoon, not the usual visitors berths.

Info: Roscoff marina was built in 2008, next to the Brittany Ferry terminal.  All the pontoons are brand new and wide. The facilities were porta-cabins for a while.  There are two lots of facilities along the main pontoon and then excellent new toilets and showers in the marina complex which have only opened this year (2014).  They are still a few signs short and everyone who came into the toilets went first to the showers then muttered to themselves and eventually found the loos.  I directed 5 sets of people whilst drying my hair.  The complex holds a chandlery, shop, cafe/restaurant and the marina offices.  28 euros per night.

20th July – Sunday

Roscoff town is a 20 minute walk, which is signposted, ‘Petit Citie’.  It is unexpectedly attractive, being so close to the ferry terminal.  A lighthouse marks the start of the tiny town, which has a couple of tiny streets, a church and a quayside square with cafes.

Roscoff is where the French onion sellers originated.

We bought some bread and custard tarts which we ate on the harbour-side.  Then slowly walked back to the marina, past an enclosure of camels and lamas, being aired in the sunshine, part of a visiting circus.  Then on past a Mama Mia style, tiny church on the top of a hill which was holding an open air service.  Complete with refreshments stall for the parishioners, just like at home.

16th July – Wednesday – Brest

Brest is one of the largest cities in France.  It is dominated by the castle which holds the Maritime Museum.  On the first day we just had a walk around, it was very foggy, to the extent that the fog siren was sounding.  The town is built on a grid pattern and has many shops, new squares and a metro.  Found a McCafe French style, cappucino and a lovely biccie for 2.60 Euro, bargain.

We have both read ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’, Mick took 4 days (speed reading), I took 4 weeks and finished it today, but what a cracking story of wrong doing and revenge.  Kept us both enthralled, you need time though, and a kindle is deceptive when trying to judge the length of a book!

17th July – Thursday

Washing done and dry in 2 hours!!

Tourist trip around the Castle ‘Chateau Maritime Museum’, 6.5 euros including English audio guide.  The castle itself is impressive, parts have been rebuilt, during the tour there is a video showing the town after the war, totally ruined.

The tours takes you through the castle which also houses the museum.  There is a famous set of models made for one of the Louis’s which show ships interiors and how they are made, there are many relics from 16th century maritime explorations made by the seafarers of Brest.  Brest is a seafaring town and they are proud of their heritage and achievements.  There are a set of larger than life-sized sculptures of Greek gods which made an impressive display and were part of the wood carvers art used in the making of ships.  The museum then changed tack and displayed modern models and artefacts from submarines and warships of the 20th century.  Items which would normally not be seen and would go to the breakers yard.

There are a big thunder and lightning storm tonight.  We had left the bedding airing, fortunately under the canopy, unfortunately not all of it was under the canopy.  Fortunately the skies cleared and we just managed to dry everything before bedtime, with the help of the de-humidifier.

Met Donald and Deirdre on ‘Daylight Xpress’ and had a lovely evening chatting about life.

18th July – Friday

I have not yet mentioned the steps which lead from the marina to the main town.  Big old stone steps which just manage to wear out your legs near the top.  I cannot resist humming the ‘Eye of the Tiger’ tune and jumping up and down a bit when we get to the top. (da da daaaa, da da daaaa etc).  

Hypermarket shop, trolley, 2 rucks sacks and 2 bags. Up and down the steps.  Second wheel fell off trolley, this time un-repairable, we are down to our last trolley.

Early night as early start Saturday.

Info: The Marina is large and the visitor pontoon is a few minutes walk to the ‘Marina de Chateau’ capitainerie’s office (above), which is very well run and welcoming. There are two sets of facilities, one set in a cabin on the visitor jetty, which are new and clean, but have no mirror or plug socket, and no ventilation.  However, for the extra walk,  the facilities on shore are excellent (best yet), new, clean and free.  Marina charge was 33 euros per night.  There is a boulangerie 7 minutes walk along the sea front.  A small Carrefour City supermarket on the main street, approx 15 minutes walk and a huge L’Eclerc Hypermarket, upstairs, at the top of the main street approx 30 minutes walk away.

14th July – Monday - Concarneau to Sainte Evette then to Brest via Raz de Sein

7 hours to make the 30 miles, very swelly.

Arrived in Sainte Evette and took up a mooring buoy along with several of the other British boats we were moored with in Concarneau.  We have not moored often but managed a pitch perfect manoeuvre with me at the helm and Mick picking up the buoy with the boat hook, first time.  I thank you.

I was not really looking forward to mooring but we had no option.  The mooring was roly poly at first as the Ferry was coming and going to the Ile de Sein.  A young man in the marina dory boat came to take our money, only 11.50 Euros for the night.  He also took our bread order!

Early night as the Raz needs our full concentration.

The Sainte Evette Fireworks started just after 11.00pm and it would have been rude not to poke our heads outside for a look.  Very good and no concert.

15th July – Tuesday

The bread delivery arrived with a different young man in the dory boat.  This country has their priorities sorted and food is high on the list.  You can tell he really loved having his picture taken by an older person in her PJ’s. 

We all set off at roughly the same time, we left at 11.10.  Another flotilla of boats going through the Raz de Sein in an orderly fashion on the best day this week for the times, tides and weather.  The weather was very foggy when we set off, approximately 100 metres visibility.  With all the electronic charts and GPS it is safe so long as you keep clear of the other boats.  It’s amazing how they were lost in the mist very quickly and when the mist cleared a little we were in approximately the same formation.  We had to get to near the Le Plate tower accurately at the right time to pass through correctly.  This time going North it was 5 and a quarter hours after high water Brest.  We passed at 13.05 and then the sea state became very roly and swelly.  The supermoon, had made this journey even more tricky than usual, with 3 metre swell on top of a huge spring tide.

The mist cleared about an hour after Le Plate and we had a pleasant journey into Brest.  You pass a Jurassic coastline with extraordinary rock formations, which seemed almost touchable in the clear afternoon light.

When entering Brest you pass the naval base and at springs the tide runs through the narrows at 4 knots, we achieved 9.3 knots over the ground.  Mick had to judge the marina entrance well as it would be easy to over shoot and would have been very hard to get back.  Also you are warned in the pilot books not to enter the military zone, which keeps you on your toes.

We chose Brest as we had been to Camaret and Brest is a large city with lots to investigate.

12th July – Saturday – Lorient Kerneval to Concarneau

08.45 to 15.30 – just over 6 and a half hours to make the trip from Lorient to Concarneau.  It was a cloudy day with a biting northerly wind, the weather did get better as the day progressed and there was no swell.

We had our obligatory walk which Mick now calls ‘Orientation’, I call it ‘Curiosity’.  He loves it really.

Concarneau turned out to be a corker.  We had passed the walled Citadel on our way into the harbour which is just outside it.  From the marina you walk passed the usual shops and cafes, then at the end of the street there is a large car park, which was playing host to a local gathering who were sat at long benches eating seafood bought from stalls, whilst listening to bagpipe music!!

I have not yet mentioned the Celtic connection.  We have seen many Irish pubs and shops, particularly noticeable in Lorient.  As in Cornwall, the people of the Bretton region are Celts, and they regard themselves as Celtic, with Music festivals, elf type characters etc to celebrate the fact.

I digress.  We walked into the walled Citadel and were greeted by the most charming street of shops and cafes you can imagine.  It was like a Harry Potter street for real.  Timbered houses and shops, jammed together, to make a feast for the senses.  I am sure Disney must have visited here for ideas.  The Citadel itself was impressive enough, but to find the delightful interior was a real treat.

13th July – Sunday

We went back into the Citadel to walk the ramparts.  Tip: Walk to the end of the street and walk back on the ramparts for free.  I know we are tight, but everyone does it.

There was a Celtic band playing in the entrance and they played ‘Galway Girl’ just like the band ‘Blood Shot Eyes’ at the ‘Hole ‘ith Wall’ pub in Bowness, Windermere.  Very nostalgic for us, many happy Friday nights of singing therapy after working weeks.

Ventured out again later in the evening as it was the night before Bastille Day and there was a concert in the main square and then fireworks on the promenade (20 minutes including a heart shaped one).  The lady sang ‘zeez bootz are made fo wacking and zhats just wot zey do’!!  They played a lot of local tunes that people obviously knew and danced to.  It’s nice to see people letting their hair down en mass.  The concert continued into the early hours after the fireworks.

The World Cup final was on in some of the bars and cafes.

We really enjoyed Concarneau, it was an unexpected treat.

Info: There is a Carrefour City supermarket near the daily market house.  The large outdoor market is on Mondays.  A large supermarket is on the road out of town.  The facilities were modern and clean, but you have to pay for the showers at the office and put a code into a machine.  The marina cost 33 euros per night.