Mid July 2015 – Take 2–Harlingen, Makkum and Hindeloopen

14th July – Tuesday – To Harlingen

The cruising guide indicated that the journey from Leeuwarden to Harlingen was dull, but we enjoyed it.  08:45 start to exit through the bridges in convoy around 09:00.  There was a short delay as the emergency services required to cross a bridge and it was lowered just before we got to it.  Much shuffling and reversing in the convoy but no bumps.  There were 10 bridges to negotiate during this trip and we did not have to moor at any of them, they opened as we approached, which was much easier.  We think it is worth tagging on to at least one other boat when making these passages as the bridge openings do seem to be more accommodating.

We liked this hobbit house, which we think was a tourist information stop for walkers.

The 12 mile journey took just under 4 hours and we arrived at the ‘Tjerk Hiddessluizen’ which will take us into the ‘Waddenzee’, after our visit to Harlingen.

The options are to go through this sluis and then through the bridges into the town canals, or take the VERY small exit on the left into the HWSV Yacht Club, which we did.

Sailors Info:  The HWSV Yacht club is highly recommended by us.  It is cheaper than staying in the town centre and the whole operation, from the Harbour-master to the Ambience are to be praised.  15 Euros per night and 50 cents each for everything else, electricity, water and showers.  The harbourmaster has a ready supply of change!  The moorings are boxes by the canal-side and are varying sizes so do not underestimate your width when asking for a berth.  There are 3 supermarkets Albert Heijn, Jumbo and Aldi which are all at the other end of town near the main harbour and to the left.  Chandlers on the central canal.

On Wednesday we came across a group of gents alighting from a German tall ship, all wearing the same outfits.

The tall ship in Harlingen Harbour.

Forward 24 hours and they turned out to be the ‘Schips Ahoy’ male voice choir.  They gave several rousing renditions including ‘The Banana Boat Song’ and ‘Wild Rover’, with actions.  They were appearing in the ‘Zommermarkt’, evening summer market which lined the main street on Thursday.

During our stay we walked to the Commonwealth Graves, which was very moving.  They were so young and came so far to die, most were Britiish, Canadians and Australians.

Harlingen is a good place to stroll around.  The town has just enough shops and the canals are many and varied and provide good people watching.  The only slightly strange thing is the ‘Musak’ (Music) which comes out of speakers on the lamp-posts.  Ultravox ‘Vienna’ whilst doing your shopping is a bit weird and not necessary, as its a lovely town.  The ferries leave from here to take people to the Friesland Islands so it can be quite busy too.  Harlingen is one of the 11 Friesland Cities.  We stayed here for 5 nights.

Frites in a snazzy, fold out container, with an integrated fold out cup for the Mayo, genius.

19th July – Sunday – To Makkum

I met a lady in Medemblik who said we should go to Makkum so here goes.  It is only 11 miles but once again we got up a little early to get the 9:00 sluis, previously mentioned.   We then negotiated the zig-zag channel into the sea.  Then 10 miles motor-sailing to the ‘Lorient’ Sluis which takes you from the Zaddenzee to the IJsselmere. 

Sailors Info:  Marina Makkum is a holiday resort with a large, modern marina.  20 Euros per night with a 10 Euro deposit for the SEP card, used for showers and garbage disposal.  Yes, there are smart cards to operate the bins!  We had only seen these in city centres so far.  Excellent facilities, shops and supermarket on site.   It is a good 30 minute walk into Makkum.  There you have the choice of the town marina, which is smaller and more convenient for the town, but is overshadowed by a hangar sized boat building shed. The choice is yours.  There are lots of chandlery suppliers, at the marina and on the walk to town.

Makkum itself is compact and though it is very charming, that is it.

Makkum Canal-side

Makkum square and main street which had a traditional fair in full swing.

Meanwhile at the quayside.  Have you ever wondered how they transport a new ships mast.  Answer, strap a two wheeled trolley to it and put the other end into the back of a small hatchback!  Beautiful workmanship.

21st July – Tuesday – To Hindeloopen

3 hours to complete 9 miles, as we sailed most of the way with the 20 knot wind abeam.

Hindeloopen is another of the Friesland cities.  When the lake freezes there is a 200km Ice-Skating race which takes in all eleven towns.  Therefore, Hindeloopen is home to an Ice-Skating Museum.

The lock-keepers house is very famous and its occupant appears to have a talent for abstract art, which is displayed throughout the garden.

The other side of the lock-keepers house, with the lock open.  It is opened manually by turning a wheel.

You will see signs for this market, make sure you go in.

It is a wealth of junk, objet and stuff which is difficult to portray in one image.  It is housed in an old barn and the building itself is worth a look.

Hindeloopen is small but the streets are winding and the houses are picture perfect.  The old ships commodores used to live in the large houses when at home and their families would de-camp to the small houses in the gardens when the commodore was away at sea.  Many of the small houses still exist.

We witnessed a rescue by the ‘KNRM’ Dutch RNLI, a boat had grounded in the channel just outside the harbour.  It took the lifeboat 20 minutes plus to manoeuvre him free.  Beware, stick to the channel.  

Hindeloopen is also known for its painted furniture.  A window shutter is shown above.

The premises where the painting takes place allows you to watch the artist at work.  It is reminiscent of Canal-Boat painting.

There is also a high quality fabric shop opposite the tourist information centre.

Sailors Info:  The Hylper harbour is on the right as you enter.  It is very Padstow-esk and you will become a tourist attraction.  On the left is the larger marina.  23.50 Euros per night with everything included and excellent wifi.  There is a Croissant shop on the marina and a small, well stocked supermarket in the centre of town.  The marina has a chandlers.

The town is compact so no directions are really needed, just enjoy its charms.

Mid July 2015–Lemmer, Sneek and Leeuwarden

6th July Monday – To Lemmer – 09.00–14.30

The journey from Medemblik to Lemmer took us straight across the IJsselmeer.  The wind was behind us for most of the 23 miles which took us 5 and a half hours.  The steering was hard going with the direction of the wind but we sailed 20 of the 23 miles with just the Genoa maintaining 5 to 6 knots.  Beware low water of approx 1.5m near the middle, which was startling but fine.   The water was an extraordinary light jade green colour, probably due to the greenery below.  The crossing is overlooked by a line of enormous, modern windmills, which made the time drag, as they were so big is seemed to take an age to get to them.

The lock at Lemmer has impressive towers marking its entrance.  A charge of 5 euros is collected in the lock itself.

Before the lock, the town looks quite industrial, but the main street is charming, lined at each side with Cafes and Restaurants and visiting boats and yachts lining the canal sides.  It seems that people like to be seen in their boats in Lemmer.

We went through the lock and 3 bridges to get to Jachthaven Lemmer Binnen.

Sailors Info: Jachthaven Lemmer Binnen costs 20 euros per night with free electricity.  Showers are 50cents for 3 minutes!  (A man must define those times).  The facilities are very good.  A short 10 minute walk towards towns brings you to a shopping complex with Lidl, Aldi and Jumbo supermarkets.  There is a chandlers on the walk into town and another across the main bridge.  The Market is on Thursday.

The holiday season has just started in Holland.  To hire a boat under 15 metres you do not need any qualifications, so anyone can hire a 14.95 metre motor boat without any experience. 

Our first encounter was of the German kind.  We stayed in Lemmer for 4 nights due to high winds, but high winds do not deter holiday makers.  So the hire boat driven by our German friend slewed across the back of our boat and thanks to them shouting at each other, we were alerted to their plight and were eager to help, as were the people in the boat to our right.  It took 6 people and much pulling of ropes to land him safely into his mooring.  He had to be shown by our neighbours how to tie up the boat.

Having not learned any lesson he lurched out the following morning, again in winds higher than we would attempt and without looking up and down stream, narrowly missed an oncoming motor boat.

Anyway we had a good few days in Lemmer, our mooring was near the canal so we enjoyed the passing boats.  There is an artificial beach complete with Beach Complex.  The marina also catered well for campervans.

10th July – Friday – To Sneek

Only 13.5 miles to Sneek starting at 10.00 and arriving at 13:00.  Just 2 bridges and an encounter with overhanging trees, no damage done.  The canal into Sneek is a small diversion from the Standing Mast Route and well worthwhile.  There are several bridges into Sneek if you wish to stay in the town by the canal.  It was Friday and looked a bit busy so we did a U-Turn at the first bridge and settled for a canal side mooring just outside town.  Fate lead us to meet the owners of motor boat ‘Liza’ who in our very short meeting, as we moored up, were full of of useful information and encouragement.  Sadly we did not get their names.

Our canal side mooring ‘Zomerrak’ gave us great views of the comings and goings into town.

The town itself is a real surprise, it is the sailing centre of Friesland and has a comprehensive shopping area, market and squares with cafes aplenty.

Just liked these Art Deco toilets.

The ‘Water Gate’ is the most famous landmark.

We enjoyed an evening out in the lovely squares, where an Irish Pub had a band which was entertaining the whole area.

As mentioned we had a ring side seat for the promenade of boats and yachts which came into town on Saturday.  Here are some of the highlights.

The house-boat above is driven from the ‘veranda’ at the front of the boat.  Propelled by an outboard motor at the back.  Don’t like the neighbours, no problem with this.

Two small boats rafted together with 8 people aboard.

Not to be outdone, 2 barges rafted together, with party in full swing.

The capacity winner went to these 20 guys crammed in this boat, not a life-jacket in sight!! 

I could go on, all we had to do was sit there and the entertainment came to us.

Sailor’s Info:  Zomerrak is a municipal mooring.  The harbourmaster visits in the afternoon to collect the dues.  31.50 Euros for 2 nights inc Electricity.  50 cents for a shower in the good facilities.  They close at 21.00 but there are others in the car park nearby, which were also good.  There is a Lidl near the marina and a small Albert Heijn at the other side of town.  Entertainment - free of charge.

12th July – Sunday – To Leeuwarden – 09.30-15:15

Leeuwarden is the capital of Friesland and a main stop on the Standing Mast Route.  It is 22 miles from Sneek and it’s a interesting journey.  We were going to stop at Grou but were advised to carry on through. 

There were many bridges to negotiate.

The huge open sluis attracted some large company. 

There is a signpost for the Standing Mast Route, just outside ‘Grou’ above.  This is a different route than the one described in Brian Navin’s cruising guide, but it is the route in the current Standing Mast Route book.

The route took us from Grou to Leeuwarden in a more direct way, through the countryside, with fields on either side for several miles.  Very peaceful motoring for us.

Brave sailing for the traditional boys, i suppose this is what they were designed for.  We do not sail in narrow canals.

We passed many of these barns which had a home attached or as part of the structure.

Not sure if this sign was a help or a hindrance.

We got talking to a lovely young couple aboard this yacht ‘Laura Elenie’.  They had been camper-vanner’s and were giving this family vessel a try.  We hope they have many happy years sailing, as they seemed to be really enjoying themselves.

This road bridge just outside Leeuwarden is the coolest we have ever seen.  It raised a chunk of road high into the air and twisted it to one side, just to be flashy. 

There is a toll charge to enter Leeuwarden of 7euros which is expertly collected from this bridge control office, by a man with a fishing rod with a small clog on the end, into which you deposit your 7 euros.  Thank goodness there was a sign warning us or there could be a multiple pile up, whilst looking for change.

Sailors Info:  Top Tip, try to park on the right side.  It’s an easier walk into the centre.  The picture above shows one of the electronic pay machines along the canal side in Leeuwarden.  They are easy to use with English options, just insert the length of the boat, number of days and electricity requirements and a Card will be deposited.  The SEP card is also used to access the shower blocks and activate the showers.  A 5 euro deposit is taken for the cards.  The charge was 29 euros for 2 nights.   

The bridge above is the last one before the moorings start.  The wonky tower is a good landmark.

There is a Jumbo supermarket 300 metres after the next bridge.

‘Fleur’ pictured on the left in her canal side mooring.  Again beware of over-hanging trees.  It’s amazing how the motor boats take all the moorings with no trees, Grrrr.

The cutest little ferry operates to transport you to the other side of the river for a nominal fee, it is free at commuter times.  The ferry man was very helpful with the pay machine and town information.

Leeuwarden Town centre.

The hall in the market square is now a restaurant.

Leeuwarden is a large town with plenty to see and lovely canal-side moorings.

Early July 2015 – Medemblik and 50th Birthday

 

29th June – Monday – Enkhuizen to Medemblik

We sailed most of the 11.5 miles from Enkhuizen to Medemblik, taking just over 3 hours.  There wasn’t much wind to start with and all slow sailing skills were applied.  Then the wind picked up to 15 knots and the Captain really enjoyed himself.

Kasteel Radboud, which welcomes you to town.

Sailors Info : Medemblik ‘Pekelharing’ Marina.  Yes that really is ‘Pickled Herring Harbour’!!  Only 18.5 euros per night, buy 2 nights get one free.  Free electric, water and push button showers.  There is a Spar on the main street and an Aldi and Deen nearby.  Exit the marina and turn left away from town, turn right at first junction, pass petrol station and supermarkets are on the right.  Approx 10 minute walk.  Market Day is on Monday.  Chandlers in the large marina and there is a ‘Four Candles’ hardware shop on the entrance channel, before the bridge.

We only came to Medemblik because Brian and Lynn from Sunderland told us how nice it was.  The day after we arrived ‘Colne Rose’ appeared in the birth next to ours.  We had met Adrian and Jane in Lorient last year and literally went to talk to them because their boat is called Colne, which is a Lancashire town.  As it turns out, it is a river in Suffolk too.  As they pulled up I said ‘You’re the lady with the sewing machine on board’.  And of course we got chatting.

The next few days were incredibly hot so Jane and I chatted and she taught me to Tatt with the equipment Liz had given me for the trip.  We swopped books and each hosted an evening pre dinner gathering.

3rd July – 50th Birthday

The birthday fairies visited during the night and put up balloons and a banner.  What a surprise!

Boat decorations put up by my stealthy, lovely husband.

Birthday Cards, Liz and Jane made beautiful cards, and an E-Card from Annette.  I also got an enormous amount of good wishes on Facebook following Michaels Breakfast Waffle post.  Thanks everyone.

Adrian made Michaels day by being the proud owner of a tin of ‘Volvo Penta Green’ paint, and being kind enough to part with some.  Mick spent a happy couple of hours lovingly touching up the engine!  Fellow boat nerds happily finding each other.  

Indonesian Rice Plate meal at Danny Leung’s.

A lovely sunny day, I could not ask for more.

4th July – Sunday

Medemblik ‘Pekelharingharbour’.  There are at least 2 more marinas here.  The Irish guy in the Pink ice cream shop told us that this marina used to be a football pitch and they dug it up.  Imagine buying a house next to grass and ending up with a marina side property.  Good for the house price.

Medemblik Main Street – Summer market.  Held every few weeks, the summer markets have a theme, this one was the babies and children’s, including mini cafe with small chairs and pony rides.

I had a quick walk while Mick was watching F1 qualifying and saw this steam train.

The train line from Hoorn Steam Train museum terminates here.

And connects to this steam ferry service.

I also had a quick look around the small Medemblik town museum, which had really friendly volunteers and English guide books.  There were lots of old Dutch tiles, glasses and bottles and pictures of the building of the Dyke, and masses of items found during the dig.

5th July – Sunday

We walked round to the large marina to visit the Chandlers and purchase the ‘Friesland’ Water Atlas, which Jane found yesterday.  It has the canals for the area not shown in the ‘Standing Mast Route’ book.

Afterwards we heard drums and pipes and walked round to see the ‘Steampunk’ festival at the Kastel Radboud.  Complete with tents and stalls and lots of people dressed up.  Whatever floats your boat.

Finally, many of the boats here have their names written in English.

‘Touch of Wind’, some translate better than others!  ‘Gentle Breeze’ may have worked better.