Mid July 2015 – Take 2–Harlingen, Makkum and Hindeloopen

14th July – Tuesday – To Harlingen

The cruising guide indicated that the journey from Leeuwarden to Harlingen was dull, but we enjoyed it.  08:45 start to exit through the bridges in convoy around 09:00.  There was a short delay as the emergency services required to cross a bridge and it was lowered just before we got to it.  Much shuffling and reversing in the convoy but no bumps.  There were 10 bridges to negotiate during this trip and we did not have to moor at any of them, they opened as we approached, which was much easier.  We think it is worth tagging on to at least one other boat when making these passages as the bridge openings do seem to be more accommodating.

We liked this hobbit house, which we think was a tourist information stop for walkers.

The 12 mile journey took just under 4 hours and we arrived at the ‘Tjerk Hiddessluizen’ which will take us into the ‘Waddenzee’, after our visit to Harlingen.

The options are to go through this sluis and then through the bridges into the town canals, or take the VERY small exit on the left into the HWSV Yacht Club, which we did.

Sailors Info:  The HWSV Yacht club is highly recommended by us.  It is cheaper than staying in the town centre and the whole operation, from the Harbour-master to the Ambience are to be praised.  15 Euros per night and 50 cents each for everything else, electricity, water and showers.  The harbourmaster has a ready supply of change!  The moorings are boxes by the canal-side and are varying sizes so do not underestimate your width when asking for a berth.  There are 3 supermarkets Albert Heijn, Jumbo and Aldi which are all at the other end of town near the main harbour and to the left.  Chandlers on the central canal.

On Wednesday we came across a group of gents alighting from a German tall ship, all wearing the same outfits.

The tall ship in Harlingen Harbour.

Forward 24 hours and they turned out to be the ‘Schips Ahoy’ male voice choir.  They gave several rousing renditions including ‘The Banana Boat Song’ and ‘Wild Rover’, with actions.  They were appearing in the ‘Zommermarkt’, evening summer market which lined the main street on Thursday.

During our stay we walked to the Commonwealth Graves, which was very moving.  They were so young and came so far to die, most were Britiish, Canadians and Australians.

Harlingen is a good place to stroll around.  The town has just enough shops and the canals are many and varied and provide good people watching.  The only slightly strange thing is the ‘Musak’ (Music) which comes out of speakers on the lamp-posts.  Ultravox ‘Vienna’ whilst doing your shopping is a bit weird and not necessary, as its a lovely town.  The ferries leave from here to take people to the Friesland Islands so it can be quite busy too.  Harlingen is one of the 11 Friesland Cities.  We stayed here for 5 nights.

Frites in a snazzy, fold out container, with an integrated fold out cup for the Mayo, genius.

19th July – Sunday – To Makkum

I met a lady in Medemblik who said we should go to Makkum so here goes.  It is only 11 miles but once again we got up a little early to get the 9:00 sluis, previously mentioned.   We then negotiated the zig-zag channel into the sea.  Then 10 miles motor-sailing to the ‘Lorient’ Sluis which takes you from the Zaddenzee to the IJsselmere. 

Sailors Info:  Marina Makkum is a holiday resort with a large, modern marina.  20 Euros per night with a 10 Euro deposit for the SEP card, used for showers and garbage disposal.  Yes, there are smart cards to operate the bins!  We had only seen these in city centres so far.  Excellent facilities, shops and supermarket on site.   It is a good 30 minute walk into Makkum.  There you have the choice of the town marina, which is smaller and more convenient for the town, but is overshadowed by a hangar sized boat building shed. The choice is yours.  There are lots of chandlery suppliers, at the marina and on the walk to town.

Makkum itself is compact and though it is very charming, that is it.

Makkum Canal-side

Makkum square and main street which had a traditional fair in full swing.

Meanwhile at the quayside.  Have you ever wondered how they transport a new ships mast.  Answer, strap a two wheeled trolley to it and put the other end into the back of a small hatchback!  Beautiful workmanship.

21st July – Tuesday – To Hindeloopen

3 hours to complete 9 miles, as we sailed most of the way with the 20 knot wind abeam.

Hindeloopen is another of the Friesland cities.  When the lake freezes there is a 200km Ice-Skating race which takes in all eleven towns.  Therefore, Hindeloopen is home to an Ice-Skating Museum.

The lock-keepers house is very famous and its occupant appears to have a talent for abstract art, which is displayed throughout the garden.

The other side of the lock-keepers house, with the lock open.  It is opened manually by turning a wheel.

You will see signs for this market, make sure you go in.

It is a wealth of junk, objet and stuff which is difficult to portray in one image.  It is housed in an old barn and the building itself is worth a look.

Hindeloopen is small but the streets are winding and the houses are picture perfect.  The old ships commodores used to live in the large houses when at home and their families would de-camp to the small houses in the gardens when the commodore was away at sea.  Many of the small houses still exist.

We witnessed a rescue by the ‘KNRM’ Dutch RNLI, a boat had grounded in the channel just outside the harbour.  It took the lifeboat 20 minutes plus to manoeuvre him free.  Beware, stick to the channel.  

Hindeloopen is also known for its painted furniture.  A window shutter is shown above.

The premises where the painting takes place allows you to watch the artist at work.  It is reminiscent of Canal-Boat painting.

There is also a high quality fabric shop opposite the tourist information centre.

Sailors Info:  The Hylper harbour is on the right as you enter.  It is very Padstow-esk and you will become a tourist attraction.  On the left is the larger marina.  23.50 Euros per night with everything included and excellent wifi.  There is a Croissant shop on the marina and a small, well stocked supermarket in the centre of town.  The marina has a chandlers.

The town is compact so no directions are really needed, just enjoy its charms.