Mid August 2015 – SAIL Amsterdam

Since 1978 there have been 5 SAIL events in Amsterdam, the last few being every 5 years.  So we thought it would be worth staying around for this special event.

We snook into Sixhaven marina on Wednesday the 12th of August, a full week before the event started.  This marina is unusual even in Holland in that the rules of engagement are ‘If you can see water we have space’ according to the Harbourmaster.  Every day boats departed and every day boats arrive and gradually more stayed than left.  Although even at the height of the event people were coming and going, so don’t give up if you really want to visit.

On Friday we visited the PEK market on the North side of the river (Wed, Fri and Sat) and then on Saturday we went to the Noordermarkt which is near the city centre towards the northwest of the city.  It is on the canal side and features lots of fresh produce and artisan stalls.

The third day of market fest took us to the impromptu food and flea market in the Westerpark which is west of Central Station.  Lots of local stall holders in the location of the Cultuurpark.  Outside above.

And Inside.  The market is currently held on the 3rd Sunday of each month.  It had a great mix of bric-a-brac stalls and food stalls from all over the world.  We plumped for Jamaican Ackee and Saltfish with dumplings and Jerk Chicken.  The ladies sauce could give Levi Roots a run for his money.  The ladies were from Sheffield!  Of all the stalls…

Then we wandered round for a few days prior to the main event.

19th August – Wed – SAIL Welcome Parade

We managed to get a seat on a wall on the ‘Grassy Knoll’ near the ‘EYE’ film museum on the north bank.  One hour and a half early and people were starting to gather.

By the time the first ship arrived the ‘Stad Amsterdam’ the crowds had gathered.  Unusually for these events and a key feature to this event is that the Tall Ships are accompanied by an Armada of small craft and some not so small craft.  In fact anything that floats.

The younger members of crew were stationed in the rigging here.

Me in my Hartlepool Tall Ships T-shirt purchased in 2010 which we now know must have been the previous place on their route that year for the last SAIL event.

The small craft leaving the main parade through the lock on the Sixhaven canal.  The trend for these small open boats could not have been timed better for this event.

The 60 Tall Ships moored all around the event site and the crowds filtered passed all day.

The small ships also continued their promenade around the tall ships for the whole 5 days.  Morning, noon and especially night for the nightly fireworks displays.

This guy was playing a trumpet with one hand and playing a barrel organ with the other hand.  He then extended his fishing rod with a clog for donations.

The clog boat was a good example of some of the extra-ordinary craft we saw.

Mick at the far end of the event.  You can see it was quite a trek.

22nd August – Sat – Day 4

The unsung hero’s of the week were the ferry operators who continued to operate amongst the mayhem. Their advantage was a very loud horn which left no one in any doubt they were making way.  Bigger ferries were deployed which would take 1100 passengers per trip.   One had a musical duo of two clarinettist's to entertain the weary, but jubilant crowds.

We went on the ferries to NDSM-werf near Amsterdam Marina.  The highlight were the Ocean 60 World Yacht Race boats.   Also lots of stalls and amusements.

23rd August – Sunday – Farewell Parade

The Farewell parade was the best attended yet.  People were clinging to every vantage point.

This house boat was filled with revellers.

The marina had been very busy and our view of the canal had been limited but on the last day many boats left and I took this picture from the back of the boat.

The big difference with this event to the usual sailing events was it did not feel like people were there just to sell you something, it was all about the joy.  Joy of people taking trips on the Tall Ships, joy of the crowds, joy of the constant water parade. 

There were enough food stalls, but not too many, people cleaned the streets constantly, bins were emptied and the toilets were clean!

It was a thoroughly well organised event, full of good humour, electrifying buzz and joyfulness.

A real life experience.  Thanks Amsterdam!

August 2015–Muiden and Amsterdam Take 2

1st August – Saturday – To Muiden

There was absolutely no wind today, so we motored the 19.5 miles which took 4.5 hours.  We had phoned ahead and had no trouble finding our berth in the KNZRV marina on the entrance channel to Muiden, which is just after the wrecked ship and virtually opposite the castle.

The ship is owned by a local and much controversy lies in whom should be responsible for its removal.  I think it adds something to the castle surrounds.

Castle Muidenslot is the 13th century defensive structure on the river bank half a mile from the centre of town.

Muiden is only 14km from Amsterdam and a really lovely location, just off the lake.  Less than 5 minutes walks takes you into the centre of Muiden, which is a very small picturesque town.  The lock above is the main centre of entertainment as boats flow through here constantly to and from Weesp and the surrounding lakes.

Sailors Info: KNZRV – The Royal Netherlands Sailing and Rowing Club is the first marina you see on the river into Muiden on the West bank, so we did not really choose it, it chose us.  Euros 47 for 2 nights everything included.  There is a terrace bar restaurant, bar downstairs and chandlers just outside the car park.  The facilities are very good.  Fuel pontoon on the East bank. 5 minute walk to town.  Small supermarket in the town centre, an up-market bakery and excellent Ice Cream shop (both facing the lock).  Large shopping complex 50 minutes walk (more of which later A.H., Lidl etc).

The Sailing Club

The Sailing club in relation to the castle, just across the river.

Sunset in Muiden

The Royal Yacht ‘De Groene Draeck’ was presented to the Queen by the people of Holland on her 18th Birthday, apparently she still sails it at the age of 79.  Most boats passing by on the river point out the boat to their friends, very entertaining.

We moored next to the yacht ‘Balans’ and chatted to Hans and Margraat who gave us some excellent information about the town and its surroundings.

3rd August – Monday

On Hans and Margraats advice we walked to Weesp today.  It is currently over an hours walk to Weesp as there are major road-works taking place.  However the efficient Dutch have provided a cycle/walking path around the works so only a slight detour, then on down the river bank.  It was a blistering hot day and we did not set off until 3.00pm but arrived in time for Ice-creams before the shops closed.

Weesp centre.  We walked back on the main road and it was 15 minutes quicker.

4th August – Tuesday

We had been told there was a supermarket nearby which turned out to be a 50 minute walk up the side of a major road, thank goodness for cycle paths.  It is probably only 20 minutes on a bike. 

One man and his trolley.  It turned out to be a large and comprehensive retail park.  We had a good stock up at Lidl, there is also an Albert Heijn and most of the major Dutch chain stores.  I think the small supermarket in town has removed all signs to this place for his profit margin.  Really glad we were told about it.

5th August – Wednesday – Back To Amsterdam

We had been told about a small marina just outside Amsterdam so off we went.  A very slow sail just over 7 miles, taking in a big bridge and a big lock, out of the Markermere and into the North Sea Canal.

Through the large lock, which was very busy, a totally different place to the one we passed on the way out.  Boats were rafted 3 and 4 abreast encouraged into place by 2 summer lock keepers.

On the narrow channel off the main canal we passed several ‘Grand Design’ houseboats, a bit like House Boat Beverley Hills, each one out-doing the next.

The end of the channel opens up a little and you are presented by 2 marinas.

‘Twellegea’, above, which we chose.

And ‘Het Jacht’ which we should have chosen.

Sailors Info:  Twellegea Jachthaven has a larger club house/office.  Sadly it has a very small and very old toilet and shower, singular.  At 28.50 euros per night it was expensive for the facilities provided.  There is however a bar on site and a well used boat yard.  There is a small ring of shops 5 minutes walk away. (Turn left, right, right and keep going on the main road a short distance).  30 minutes walk to the Dirk supermarket near ‘Aeolus’ marina.

‘Het Jacht’ above had a new set of toilets and showers in a porta-cabin, which were much better and they charge 15 euros per night.  No prizes for guessing which one we will visit next time.

However, ‘Twellegea’ is located on Nieuwendammerdijk.  By good fortune we stumbled on a beautifully preserved street of houses, pub, shops and a church

It was a separate municipality until it merged with Amsterdam in 1921.  A late medieval settlement, found after the dike burst in 1514 and a new dike and sluis were built.  The houses were originally ships captains houses.  Many people cycle here from Amsterdam to view the houses.

7th August – Friday – Moved Marinas

During a walk from Twellegea we took a look at ‘Aeolus’ marina and decided to move after our 2 days were up.  Only 1.6 miles.

The pilot guide says to look for the ‘Stork’ sign and turn in.  Stork is now a restaurant on the canal side and the sign is not very big.

The entrance is only 8 metres wide so take it easy.  The harbourmaster rides his/her bike (the members take turns to be in charge) to the reporting pontoon and then advises where to go.

Again by chance we pulled up next to ‘White Haze’ and met Ada and Akko.  It is a beautiful British Designed and Dutch built steel hulled yacht.  During preliminary chats he asked where we had come from and we found out he was from Harlingen, so we chatted about that.  Admiring his obviously ocean going boat we asked what his longest trip had been, 24 days he said, ooh where was that we asked, I’m not sure if it was the Pacific or the Atlantic was his reply.  We then said WOW alot as he told of of their 6 year circumnavigation, which we found out later had ended with a parade through Amsterdam.  After being put securely back in our box we gazed with nothing but awe and admiration for this unassuming couple.  What a privilege.

White Haze with Akko at the helm.  We pretended to help them leave the next day, but they didn’t need any help!  They have a book but sadly it is only available in Dutch.

Sailors Info:  Aeolus Marina, Amsterdam.  A members club which accepts visitors.  Friendly and well run.  13 euros per night including electricity and water.  Showers 50cents.  Tip-use the shower in the club building as the porta-cabin ones are hot in warm weather.  The most convenient supermarket yet, a ‘Dirk’ at the marina entrance.  A convenient 10 minute walk to the Central Station Ferry across the North Sea Canal.

We recommend a look in the ‘Foodmarkt Amsterdam’ on the road to the east of the marina, you can’t miss it.  A fashionable food destination which is actually a Jumbo supermarket in trendy surroundings.  Complete which Pizzeria and Asian fusion takeaway.  The food can be eaten in the cafe or taken back to the boat.  The pizzas were excellent and only 5euros each.

8th August – Saturday

We walked to Vondelpark.  Approx 1 hour walk inc. ferry ride.  The park is far larger than it first appears and took 40 minutes to walk to the furthest point.  Many euros have been spent to upgrade the park and its facilities.  Cafes, Band Stands and event spaces make it a beautiful oasis in the city centre.

Even though it is well used it did not feel overcrowded and gave welcome shade on a hot day.

10th August – Monday

Our 3rd Wedding Anniversary.  We went to the Rijksmuseum which is worth the 17.50 euros entrance fee.  Millions have been spent to update the museum and it is hugely improved from my last visit 20 years ago.  Be sure to download the museum App which provides lots of different on-line tours to cater for every taste.

We ended the day in a Tibetan/Indonesian restaurant at 65 Utrechtsestraat ‘Tashi Deleg’ where we had a Tibetan inspired Riceplate.

Its a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds, and the waiter could not have been more helpful.

Finally a picture of my latest device.  To stop Mick banging his head on the Perspex sliding door.  He sets off up the stairs out of the boat with such purpose and is stopped abruptly in his tracks when his head makes contact with the door.

A red ribbon tied to the door handle.  It is working so far. 

12th August – To Sixhaven Marina – our shortest journey yet.

Legendary marina amongst Yachty types.  We are staying for the ‘SAIL Amsterdam’ event.  m.sail.nl/en for the English version.

It is busy already and the event does not start until the 19th!!

End July 2015 – Stavoren and Lelystad

23rd July – Thursday

We travelled to Stavoren from Hindeloopen today as high winds were forecast for the weekend.  The 9 miles only took 2 hours but it was a pleasant 10 – 15 knot sail. 

Stavoren is a main entrance point for the standing mast route to Leeuwarden and beyond.  Although we did not pass through the lock, the picture gives some idea of its traffic.

The town centre is approximately 15 minutes walk from the marina.  The most prominent feature being the Co-op supermarket where we stocked up.  There is a harbour-side with a small marina and a small number of restaurants.  The high street has a few shops and the best ‘Kebbelin’ (pieces of fish with sauce) we have had for a while. 

25th July – Saturday

My mind was distracted with the WI show at home today, our co-operative entry won a well deserved 3rd place, well done.

In Friesland ‘skutsjesilen’ which is the sailing of historical flat bottomed boats is a yearly event, which visits 11 towns with 14 boats culminating in a trophy ceremony in Sneek.  This is another reason we came to Stavoren after being hijacked into buying a flag supporting the event while we were in Leeuwarden.

Sadly due to the weather forecast the regatta was cancelled, above are the historic boats in harbour.

Our neighbour who was a local of Lelystad, knocked on the boat this morning to tell us that we must put extra ropes onto the boat prior to the impending storm, which was due to arrive late afternoon.  We were told we were facing the right way as the wind was due from the West.  He even insisted that we put a rope around the big bollard on the windlass (which lowers the anchor). 

We went for a walk around 2.00pm, the calm, and it started to rain just as we returned.  Then the wind was switched on.  At approx. 3.00pm it went from a moderate 20 knots to 30 knots almost immediately and for the next hour steadily rose to our maximum recorded of 58.9knots.  It continued at around 40 to 55 until approx. 8.00pm.  The video and photos we took during the event do not fully re-create the force of the storm. It is a very exciting experience for the first hour or so and then you just hold on. 

We thanked our neighbour for the extra measures, we knew it was coming but not quite how bad it was going to be, as the forecast was 40-45 knots, when it turned out to be nearer 60.  According to other people the day after, it was the highest recorded wind speeds in the area since records began in 1901.

Sailors Info:  Marina Stavoren has very easy access from the IJsselmere with wide, well spaced pontoons.  Euros 70.51 for 3 nights all inclusive.  Wifi was OK.  There is a bread shop on the marina, a restaurant, gallery, chandlers and a Co-op in town on its own little island (cross the main lock and turn right).

26th July – Sunday

A break in the weather was forecast for Sunday and gave us the window of opportunity to move to Lelystad.  Again the forecast for the following days was for high winds.  27 miles today which took almost 6 hours as we tacked across the inland sea enjoying the 10-15 knots of wind.

The lock at Lelystad is on the east end of the dyke dividing the Markermere and the IJsselmere.  The tower (above) can be seen for many miles as you follow the long procession of windmills to the lock.  Unusually there is not a smaller ‘Sport’ lock here and you go through with the big guys.  It was interesting for us as the barge passed on his way into the lock, I suspect even more interesting for the guy on his Jetski!! who did not seem phased at all.

Immediately after the lock you pass the ‘Batavia’ a replica ship and then see the large block of flats above, which is a good marker for the marina.

Sailors Info: Lelystad, Bataviahaven, south of the Houtribsluizen (Lock).  Euros 66 for 6 nights.  Buy 2 get 1 free.  Electronic SEP cards for the showers and electric.  7 minutes showering for 1 euro.  The marina is made of side-pontoons and you just find your own space.  The marina office is in the block of flats.  There is a bar which seems to be open most of the time but the restaurants only seem to open Thursday onwards.  There is a McDonalds and Subway and a few other small restaurants in the Outlet village nearby.  The nearest supermarket is an Albert Heijn approx 30 minutes walk (follow the red cycle path over the white bridge, ask for directions).  A shop-van comes to the marina in the morning (but does not have a bell, so you don’t know he is there) and more usefully, the lady from the bar takes bread orders in the afternoon and you collect and pay in the bar the following morning.  This place really needs a small supermarket.  Lelystat town is a one hour walk, where there are Deen and Jumbo supermarkets.

We had a walk around the following day and bumped into Edward on ‘Samphire’ in the bar, who we had met in Harlingen.  He is a cycling fan and we had a drink with him to help celebrate Frome’s 2nd win of the Tour de France.

Anthony Gormley’s sculpture ‘Exposure’ is on the headland after the lock, he of ‘Angel of the North’ fame.  See internet for the wittier comments, I liked it, but it was not universally well received.

Lelystad has 6 land sculptures, this is another on the way to the retail outlet.  Bataviastad is a large retail outlet like Fleetwood, Cheshire Oaks and Ashford.  Big names in a mock village layout.  There is a free bus runs from Amsterdam.

28th July – Tuesday

After Mondays high winds we needed a walk, so we went to the Nieuwland and Batavia Museums. 

There is a joint entrance fee of 16 Euros, but you can just go into the Batavia Museum for 11 Euros.  Flevoland is the new land which was created when the polder was formed and drained in the 1950s.  The museum explains the history and the engineering behind its creation.  There are some fascinating photos and films of people in traditional dress being rescued from their homes in storms prior to its creation.

The Bataviawerf museum is dedicated to the Batavia, a Dutch East India Company ship, reminiscent of the Titanic, in so much as it sank on its maiden voyage to Australia.  A replica has been made over the past 30 years and the museum has a blacksmiths, rope-makers, sail-makers, and wood carving centre.

Tours were advertised and ours took place at 13.20 with Jon Bedet (below), a volunteer guide.

We were his only two customers for his English tour and we received the full detailed tour.  He was very knowledgeable and answered all Mick’s questions with ease.  His enthusiasm for the subject was very infectious and we enjoyed our time with him immensely.  Thanks Jon!

29th July – Wednesday

Another very windy day, so we decided to walk to Lelystad.  It was an hour to walk there and the signage is poor.  The centre is at the other side of the railway station, which is very central and easy to find.  It is a New Town like Milton Keynes and has little character.  There is a shopping centre, which is not as big as the town would suggest.

We trudged the trolley back to Albert Heijn nearer to the Marina.  Where we treat ourselves to bonus spring rolls.

Watch out for these delightful trailers selling Vietnamese and Chinese delicacies.  Loempia are Vietnamese spring rolls and are served in a spring roll shaped tray with sweet chilli sauce.  Only 1 euro each and they just hit the spot after a long walk.

Flevoland is only 50 years old and obviously has a very new feel about it, which is in stark contrast to the beautiful, traditional towns we have previously encountered.  That said the engineer accomplishment is mind boggling.

Next stop Muiden.