End July 2015 – Stavoren and Lelystad

23rd July – Thursday

We travelled to Stavoren from Hindeloopen today as high winds were forecast for the weekend.  The 9 miles only took 2 hours but it was a pleasant 10 – 15 knot sail. 

Stavoren is a main entrance point for the standing mast route to Leeuwarden and beyond.  Although we did not pass through the lock, the picture gives some idea of its traffic.

The town centre is approximately 15 minutes walk from the marina.  The most prominent feature being the Co-op supermarket where we stocked up.  There is a harbour-side with a small marina and a small number of restaurants.  The high street has a few shops and the best ‘Kebbelin’ (pieces of fish with sauce) we have had for a while. 

25th July – Saturday

My mind was distracted with the WI show at home today, our co-operative entry won a well deserved 3rd place, well done.

In Friesland ‘skutsjesilen’ which is the sailing of historical flat bottomed boats is a yearly event, which visits 11 towns with 14 boats culminating in a trophy ceremony in Sneek.  This is another reason we came to Stavoren after being hijacked into buying a flag supporting the event while we were in Leeuwarden.

Sadly due to the weather forecast the regatta was cancelled, above are the historic boats in harbour.

Our neighbour who was a local of Lelystad, knocked on the boat this morning to tell us that we must put extra ropes onto the boat prior to the impending storm, which was due to arrive late afternoon.  We were told we were facing the right way as the wind was due from the West.  He even insisted that we put a rope around the big bollard on the windlass (which lowers the anchor). 

We went for a walk around 2.00pm, the calm, and it started to rain just as we returned.  Then the wind was switched on.  At approx. 3.00pm it went from a moderate 20 knots to 30 knots almost immediately and for the next hour steadily rose to our maximum recorded of 58.9knots.  It continued at around 40 to 55 until approx. 8.00pm.  The video and photos we took during the event do not fully re-create the force of the storm. It is a very exciting experience for the first hour or so and then you just hold on. 

We thanked our neighbour for the extra measures, we knew it was coming but not quite how bad it was going to be, as the forecast was 40-45 knots, when it turned out to be nearer 60.  According to other people the day after, it was the highest recorded wind speeds in the area since records began in 1901.

Sailors Info:  Marina Stavoren has very easy access from the IJsselmere with wide, well spaced pontoons.  Euros 70.51 for 3 nights all inclusive.  Wifi was OK.  There is a bread shop on the marina, a restaurant, gallery, chandlers and a Co-op in town on its own little island (cross the main lock and turn right).

26th July – Sunday

A break in the weather was forecast for Sunday and gave us the window of opportunity to move to Lelystad.  Again the forecast for the following days was for high winds.  27 miles today which took almost 6 hours as we tacked across the inland sea enjoying the 10-15 knots of wind.

The lock at Lelystad is on the east end of the dyke dividing the Markermere and the IJsselmere.  The tower (above) can be seen for many miles as you follow the long procession of windmills to the lock.  Unusually there is not a smaller ‘Sport’ lock here and you go through with the big guys.  It was interesting for us as the barge passed on his way into the lock, I suspect even more interesting for the guy on his Jetski!! who did not seem phased at all.

Immediately after the lock you pass the ‘Batavia’ a replica ship and then see the large block of flats above, which is a good marker for the marina.

Sailors Info: Lelystad, Bataviahaven, south of the Houtribsluizen (Lock).  Euros 66 for 6 nights.  Buy 2 get 1 free.  Electronic SEP cards for the showers and electric.  7 minutes showering for 1 euro.  The marina is made of side-pontoons and you just find your own space.  The marina office is in the block of flats.  There is a bar which seems to be open most of the time but the restaurants only seem to open Thursday onwards.  There is a McDonalds and Subway and a few other small restaurants in the Outlet village nearby.  The nearest supermarket is an Albert Heijn approx 30 minutes walk (follow the red cycle path over the white bridge, ask for directions).  A shop-van comes to the marina in the morning (but does not have a bell, so you don’t know he is there) and more usefully, the lady from the bar takes bread orders in the afternoon and you collect and pay in the bar the following morning.  This place really needs a small supermarket.  Lelystat town is a one hour walk, where there are Deen and Jumbo supermarkets.

We had a walk around the following day and bumped into Edward on ‘Samphire’ in the bar, who we had met in Harlingen.  He is a cycling fan and we had a drink with him to help celebrate Frome’s 2nd win of the Tour de France.

Anthony Gormley’s sculpture ‘Exposure’ is on the headland after the lock, he of ‘Angel of the North’ fame.  See internet for the wittier comments, I liked it, but it was not universally well received.

Lelystad has 6 land sculptures, this is another on the way to the retail outlet.  Bataviastad is a large retail outlet like Fleetwood, Cheshire Oaks and Ashford.  Big names in a mock village layout.  There is a free bus runs from Amsterdam.

28th July – Tuesday

After Mondays high winds we needed a walk, so we went to the Nieuwland and Batavia Museums. 

There is a joint entrance fee of 16 Euros, but you can just go into the Batavia Museum for 11 Euros.  Flevoland is the new land which was created when the polder was formed and drained in the 1950s.  The museum explains the history and the engineering behind its creation.  There are some fascinating photos and films of people in traditional dress being rescued from their homes in storms prior to its creation.

The Bataviawerf museum is dedicated to the Batavia, a Dutch East India Company ship, reminiscent of the Titanic, in so much as it sank on its maiden voyage to Australia.  A replica has been made over the past 30 years and the museum has a blacksmiths, rope-makers, sail-makers, and wood carving centre.

Tours were advertised and ours took place at 13.20 with Jon Bedet (below), a volunteer guide.

We were his only two customers for his English tour and we received the full detailed tour.  He was very knowledgeable and answered all Mick’s questions with ease.  His enthusiasm for the subject was very infectious and we enjoyed our time with him immensely.  Thanks Jon!

29th July – Wednesday

Another very windy day, so we decided to walk to Lelystad.  It was an hour to walk there and the signage is poor.  The centre is at the other side of the railway station, which is very central and easy to find.  It is a New Town like Milton Keynes and has little character.  There is a shopping centre, which is not as big as the town would suggest.

We trudged the trolley back to Albert Heijn nearer to the Marina.  Where we treat ourselves to bonus spring rolls.

Watch out for these delightful trailers selling Vietnamese and Chinese delicacies.  Loempia are Vietnamese spring rolls and are served in a spring roll shaped tray with sweet chilli sauce.  Only 1 euro each and they just hit the spot after a long walk.

Flevoland is only 50 years old and obviously has a very new feel about it, which is in stark contrast to the beautiful, traditional towns we have previously encountered.  That said the engineer accomplishment is mind boggling.

Next stop Muiden.