Early June - Northshields, Newcastle and Eyemouth, Scotland

29th May 2019 - Wednesday - Hartlepool to Northshields, Newcastle

We are making a return trip to Royal Quays Marina, at Northshields near Newcastle.  We set off at 09.30 to make the 24.5 miles in just under 6 hours.  We were hopeful for a sunny day, but the clouds arrived, with a chill wind and showers.  We saw no other pleasure boats except large traffic all day.

The large breakwaters at the end of the Tyne are a welcome site, as is the Tynemouth Priory on the hill.

The high and low lights (towers) need to be lined up as you follow the channel buoys up the river.

We pass the North Shields Fish Market, along the Fish Quay where the best Fish and Chips are to be purchased.  You can't get fresher.

We reach Royal Quays by 15.00.  There is a large lock, with high floating pontoons.  So stepping ashore is a doddle.  The harbour-master met us in the lock and directed us to a berth.

In search of fish and chips, after a cold journey, we started to walk to the Fish Quay.  I remembered a figure head outside a pub, Mick doubted my sanity for a while, but then we found her.  Outside the Prince of Wales aka The Wooden Doll. There has been a wooden figure here for 200 years, the original was from a brig called the 'Alexander and Margaret' she became famous as a good luck charm for sailors who cut pieces from her for luck.  She obviously did not last long and has had several reincarnations, the latest was carved in 1992.

We ate in the 'Waterfront' café.  It has had a facelift since our last visit.  Think this may become the Fish and Chip Lovers UK blog.
30th May - Thursday
Two loads of washing in the morning.
In the afternoon we walked to Tynemouth.  The home of the priory and a pretty main street and lots of bespoke shops and cafes.  In particular two venues, one in an old church, with lots of small shops inside, the other a colourful display in a beautiful old house.

Tynemouth Priory

Tynemouth High Street, leading to the beaches.
Coffee and cake revived us in Rene's Café for the return journey in the drizzle.  15,000 steps.
31st May - Friday

We took the passenger ferry to South Shields, across the river, as neither of us had been.  £2.90 day return.

Just opposite the ferry we came across a market and I was very pleased to find the NE branch of my favourite fabric shop Immanuel's of Burnley.  We had a good chat with the stall-holders who were going to the bosses wedding the following day.
Sadly the day was quite overcast and showery.  We made our way along Market Street and nipped into the museum out of the rain.  It comprises a lively jumble of historic items from the area along with live Pythons and Tarantula's!
We walked to length of Ocean Street to the seaside beyond, where there is a large funfair and parks at the seaside.  There is also a Roman Fort which will have to wait for better weather.

We then sheltered in the new and impressive Museum of the Written word, which is a library, gallery and educational space.  There was an excellent display about coding through the ages.
Final stop was a large ASDA near the ferry port.  A good full day despite the weather.
Sailors Port Info.
Royal Quays has a lock to enter.  The pontoons are floating and very high, so set a couple of high fenders.

'The Loft' restaurant and facilities complex above has been built since our last visit.  Very swish, but still no sockets.  £3 wash and £2 dry but one set took two sessions of drying Grrr.  £30 per night, electric on meters.  Really nice marina staff with very poor local knowledge regarding washing times, supermarkets and white diesel. 

There is an ASDA in North Shields 15 min walk.  A large ASDA in South Shields across the ferry.  Wifi Poor.

1st June - Saturday - North Shields to Eyemouth, Scotland
The weather has really been affecting our moves recently and we moved to Eyemouth as the forecast for the following few days was poor.
We entered the lock at 4.45 with a local fishing boat.

The beautiful sunrise lit Tynemouth Priory to perfection.
Over the next 12 hours we past the Farne Islands, Lindisfarne and Holy Island.  It would have been nice to stop here but I think the weather in July would be more conducive.  The strong Eddies around the Farne Islands made for an interesting hour for helming.  We saw our first Puffins bobbing in the sea, along with numerous seals.  The day remained mostly bright with some cloud and chill wind.  We arrived at 16.15 after 65 miles.

Beware of the Hurkars, rocks at the entrance to Eyemouth.

A narrow entrance leads into the port, lined with vessels of all types.
The harbour-master directed us to the visitor pontoons where we were required to raft 3 deep.  We were moved the following day to be rafted two deep.  The local fishing and dive boats are busy and it felt better to be further into the side.  Mick was taken for a ride in the harbour-master's van as soon as we arrived to explain current difficulties regarding the broken footbridge and how to get around.  But he had to walk back!

As you can see it is a busy port.  Gungreen House on the left is a notable smugglers haunt and is open to the public.  The small castle on the right can be rented for accommodation.

2nd and 3rd June - Sunday and Monday
We had a good walk around and found a great General Store, which was endless and sold everything.  There are amusements and cafes sprinkled around.  We walked up onto the headland to the location of the Roman Fort, with spectacular views to the North.

View North from the Headland

It was entertaining to watch the resident seals beg for fish from the returning fishing boats.
We finished our last day with Fish and Chips at Giacopazzi.  In Scotland many Fish and Chip shops are also Ice Cream Parlours, a match made in heaven.

Sailors Port Info
Sadly the port is hampered at present, as the footbridge to the marina office and facilities is currently being replaced and will not be operational until at least the end of June.
The public loo's, which are the nearest at present, on the harbourside charge 30p. I think there should be an amnesty while the bridge is broken.  It is currently a 2 mile return walk to the showers and office.  The facilities are old fashioned and cost £1 (2 x 50p) per shower.
Dive boats are very busy in the harbor and do not appear to follow any speed restrictions, which causes wash for moored boats.  On Sunday at least 8 return trips were witnessed.  The dive and stay business is booming.
There are only 3 boat lengths reserved for visitor pontoons.  So expect to raft.
The Gungreen House and Local Museum are open to visitors.
There is a Coop shop in town near the sea front.  Wifi poor.

Next stop Edinburgh and the beautiful Firth of Forth.

Late May 2019 - Whitby and Hartlepool

Whitby

Fleur rafted in Whitby.

As soon as we arrived in Whitby we went in search of Fish and Chips.  The places we had been recommended were not open, so we decided to try The Magpie, as neither of us had been before.

It is the most famous café in town, so we had to try it.  As it was a Wednesday evening we did not have to queue and were taken to an upstairs table with a view of the Abbey and the waterfront.  There had been a fire here in 2017, and it has been updated beautifully.  We were advised by a fellow dinner to go for the small cod.  Excellent choice, tea, bread and butter, peas and a small jug of curry sauce for dipping.  Champion.

16th May - Thursday

One of Mick's oldest friends Dave, took him in the car to get diesel, while I did the washing.  Bargain £2 Wash, £1 Dry.
In the afternoon Dave and Tracy took us in the car to Runswick Bay, which is made up of a delightful cluster of cottages, clinging to the cliffside.  We had a great late lunch in the Royal and then drove back to their house for a brew.

Clustered Cottages

Old friends enjoying a Grand Day Out

18th May - Saturday - Fish and Sail Festival

Following the success of the 250 year Captain Cook anniversary the town continued the festivities with the Fish and Sail Festival.  We do like to stumble on an event.
First stop was the 'Parkol' shipyard where fishing trawlers are built to service the local fleet and beyond.  We were lucky to get a hard hat tour up the scaffolding which surrounds the boats-in-progress.

At ground level in the work shed.

The length of the boat from the stern at the top of the scaffold.

Finished articles on a Misty Day.
The pieces of metal are laser cut at another site and they are welded together here, by the largely Romanian workforce.

There were shanty singers and groups of musicians in Marquees. Chef demos by Brian Turner, Jean Christof Novelli and others.  Demonstrations from the fishermen cooking and making nets and lobster pots.  Lots of stalls and street entertainers.

These two characters must have walked miles in the weekend.
We then went for a break to the recommended 'Rusty Shears' café in a courtyard on Silver St.  Well worth finding.  Banoffee Pie for me, Carrot Cake for Mick.
Re-fueled, we then went for at look on the fisheries patrol vessel. IFCA Inshore Fisheries Conservation Authority.

What a piece of kit.  The North Eastern Guardian III pretty much plays cat and mouse with the local fishermen, to ensure they catch fish fairly.  Their other roll is environmental and they perform research tasks for various agencies.  They had a very hi-tech mini sub for checking underwater.  Fascinating, especially after seeing the Coastal Patrol Boat last year to compare.  Fireworks at 10pm ended a full and enjoyable day.

19th May - Sunday

Our friends Mark and Joy brought their mum's Micki and Eileen for lunch.  We all went to the 'Fisherman's Wife' café on the seafront, which has fantastic views.  The fish and chips were pretty good too.  Lovely to see them all.

20th May - Monday

Dave and Tracy kindly collected us again for Brunch.  We went to 'The Cycle Hub'.  A purpose built cycle café, bunk house and shop in spectacular scenery in the appropriately named 'Fryupdale', I kid you not.

The café was busy even for a Monday lunchtime.  We had big breakfasts with homemade Hash Browns.
We then had a drive around.  This is the view from the Bank Top Ironworks.  Then onto Hutton-le-Hole, a truly beautiful un-spoilt village.  Then to Grosmont, near their home.  If any of you are watching the Yorkshire Railway programme on Channel 5 on Fridays at the moment, you will know what's coming.

Yes, Steam Trains.  We went everywhere, the Platform to watch the shunting, The Engine Sheds, Workshops, Coal Hoppers and Water Bowser.  They only ask for donations.  It is a brilliant place to explore.

Grosmont Crossing

Grosmont Platform
We then went for a cuppa at the Hazelwood Café, and saw this sign from the Tour de Yorkshire, which passes through these parts.

Grosmont sign made from Bicycle parts.
Another truly Grand Day out, thanks to Dave and Tracy.

21st May - Tuesday

We have been to Whitby numerous times in the past but we were generally here for a quick weekend and/or a sailing event, so it is great to do the tourist thing and just enjoy it.
So obviously we had to walk up the 199 Abbey Steps.

199 Steps
St Mary's church is fascinating and has some unusual features and artefacts.

Whitby Abbey in all it's splendour on a blue sky day.  It is now £9.80 to enter, we didn't.
A blackcurrant and liquorice Ice Cream each at the bottom seemed a better option.  We wandered around the crooked streets and checked out the harbour-side.
Dave popped by in the afternoon and he and Mick went mooching in man shops.
We had a great stay in Whitby, made better by seeing friends.  It is a cracking place and I would go as far as to say.  If you don't like Whitby, It's You.

Sailors Port Info
The bridge opens 2 hours either side of high water.  There is a visitors pontoon on the left before the bridge, which has very small signage!  Be prepared to raft up as it gets busy.  The facilities were updated several years ago and are still in good condition.  Sadly the plug socket is in the hall way, a long way from the mirrors.  Wifi poor.  Washing and Drying facilities however were excellent £2 Wash £1 Dry. £27 per night.  Very congenial and helpful staff in the office and on the bridge.

22nd May - Wednesday - Whitby to Hartlepool

We caught the last bridge out of Whitby at 08.30am.  The day was sunny, with a chill Northerly wind on the nose, gusting to 20 knots, not as forecast. The sea state was slight to moderate, so we had a pleasant enough trip arriving at 14.30.  The Hartlepool windfarm has only 27 windmills and past relatively quickly.  Hartlepool opens the lock 4 hours before and after high water.  We arrived 4 hours before high water and tested our lifting keel depth limit, we eased in with half a metre clear under us.

We past the next two days washing, washing the boat, acquiring diesel and going to see Rocketman at the cinema.  We loved it.

We took a nostalgic trip to the Christchurch, church, which is an Art Gallery and Café.  We saw so many good exhibitions here when we used to keep the boat in Hartlepool.  It is just as good as we remember.

The church from the gallery level.  An exhibition of local artists was coming to a close.

There was also a fascinating and current display of plastics collected from a local beach by a local artist.  So interesting to see the detritus of our lives on display in such a stark manner.  Many fishing items, daily items and children's multi-coloured plastics.

We also got talking to the owners of Coronia a Dunkirk Ship which ferried soldiers from the shore to the larger boats.  My grandfather Joseph Mangham was evacuated from Dunkirk, which makes it more poignant.  We enjoyed a brew and a chat in their tea room and Mick checked out the engines.  Their plan is to take her to the 80 years reunion next year.  We think they have a real chance with this one.
 
25th May - Saturday

We met up with Andy and Claire who we have not seen since we left Hartlepool 10 years ago.  The first two hours flashed by and we continued over a curry at our old favourite 'Poppadoms' on the marina.  They have had a great time with their boat, then their campervan.  It is great to meet up with such like-minded people and we really look forward to hearing about their ongoing adventures.  Thanks for a great night.

26th May - Sunday

Again for old times sake we went for Sunday Lunch at Tees and Hartlepool Yacht club.  The portions are still good and the prices reasonable.  It is open to non-memebers too.  The club looks exactly the same, with the same great views.  The fleeces we bought 10 years ago are still going strong and have clocked about 7,000 nautical miles so far.

We look forward to returning again and again.

Sailors Port Info

The harbour staff are very friendly as is everyone else in Hartlepool.  Free wifi, if you don't mind sitting in the office!  Good 4G signal though.  Facilities are good.  Hairdryers available.  £27 per night.  Asda at the other side of the marina.  Vue cinema also nearby.  15 minute walk into town.  Many restaurants and bars around the marina.

May 2019 - Ipswich to Whitby

The plan for 2019 and probably 2020 is to circumnavigate the UK.  The decision was made due to the uncertainty of Brexit and we really fancied doing it.  It may take one or two years.  We have no hard and fast plan for the route.  Weather will be the big determining factor.

Arrival at Ipswich

After the beautiful Easter weekend we caught the train to Ipswich on the 1st May.  The train driver was mislaid at Oxford Rd, Manchester and we had to change trains.  A herd of pensioner wildebeests carting their belongings over the bridge at speed, to travel one stop into Piccadilly. 

The boat was re-launched on the 2nd May, and we managed to secure a berth near the office for our short stay.  The short stayed ended up being 10 days as we waited for the Easter sunshine to return.

Plenty of jobs to do to fill the time.  Thankfully on the 7th, Liz and John arrived and we had a pleasant few days catching up.  We were also visited by Adrian and Jane on the 8th, it was a hideous weather day, made so much better by a lunch on board and plenty of laughter, Bon Voyage.  On the 9th Liz kindly drove us to Lidl for a big shop.

John recommended we get some Crag-hopper fleece lined trousers for night passages, which I found in the sale at Millets.  They work a treat.

11th May - Departure Day

Mick in Ipswich Marina.  Hopefully the 'Wine-rack' behind will be complete on our return.

Liz and I went shopping in the morning to relieve the pre-departure stress.  The lock gates were due to open on free-flow at 16.30.  We all decided on sailing down the river and overnighting on a buoy near Levington.  It was good to make all our engine, electrical, electronics and instrument checks.  Our first hop to Lowestoft is quite a long first trip, so we needed to be confident that all systems were operational.  Mick has been checking for the past 10 days, can't be too careful.

We moored 4 buoys from Liz and John.  They left at 06.30 for a long trip to Ramsgate.  Bon Voyage.

12th May - Sunday - Ipswich to Lowestoft

We cast off from the mooring buoy at 7.45 am.  It was a beautiful calm morning, if a little chilly.  As we rounded the headland at Felixstowe the wind picked up a little and the sea state became more roly.   We had all our gear on so it was hot behind the canopy but as soon as we poked our heads outside the wind chill bit into our faces.  A very strange hot and cold day.  The wind was on the nose in the morning and we motor-sailed against the wind in the afternoon. 

'Wonderwall' came on the radio as we were passing Sizewell, and it felt like a good day.  Passing Sizewell took 4 hours, so time for a snooze.

My lifejacket makes a great pillow

Orford Ness a radio station in WW2

Its great to see a ship in full sail

The sea became more unsettled in the afternoon, but we managed well, arriving in Lowestoft at 17.30.  We moored at the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht club.  Rafting alongside the visitor pontoon, with a fleet of Dutch sailors.
One of our fellow pontoon rafters, in a very beautiful big new boat said they had made it from Holland in 15 hours (took us 26), he said the boat 'went faster than his wallet'.

45 miles in 10.5 hours, up to 12 knots of wind.  Good first leg.

13th May - Monday - Lowestoft

Mick completed two trips for white diesel to the local Asda with his new trolley.  Then we went for a walk around town, acquiring a new flask for the boat.  Wetherspoons for tea, which is in an old department store formally called Tuttle.

The windfarm business is providing plenty of employment, these are two of 8 we saw, with probably more out at sea.

Sailors Port Info

Expect to raft up in Lowestoft Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht club.  There is a lovely bar and restaurant.  The facilities are a little dated but good with hairdryers.  Coded access from the town, which is a short walk.  Short walk also to Asda.  £34 per night felt a little steep.

14th May - Tuesday - Lowestoft to Whitby

With great apprehension on my part, as overnight sailing is not my favorite thing, we departed at 06.00 on a sunny but cold morning.  Fully fueled with sea sickness pills, even though the forecast was near on perfect.

The sea state was calm and the wind, such as it was, was behind us.  We had the sail up and it occasionally leant a hand to the engine.  Later in the day it was warm enough to just wear long sleeved t-shirts with our lifejackets.  I changed from cozy pants to jeans and back twice during the trip. 

I had made a large box of sandwiches, to grab as required.  Special mention must be made to the Sliced Cumberland Sausage we found in Asda, with a bit of brown sauce, lovely.  We also bought lasagne to put in the oven in the evening.  We had tried making hot food prior to trips before, but it has never been eaten.  However, this time we had such calm sea that the lasagnes went down a treat.  A warm meal before a night passage is a glorious thing.

Windfarm assembly at Great Yarmouth.  They are assembled upright and floated out on barges.

Windmills.  I like how they line up like soldiers as you slowly pass them.  It takes a couple of hours to pass a windfarm and we past 5 in total, containing at least 100 windmills each.  They are well lit in the dark with red lights.

 Some very big traffic and gas rigs.  The sea was very busy with windfarm traffic and large shipping until 10pm.

 Taking it easy.

Approaching sunset.

 WOW.

Our night seat.  Two cockpit seats with 'Work-shirt quilt' for extra comfyness.  Also see our harnesses which tether us to the boat when we are in the cockpit alone at night.  Not forgetting the hot water bottle.  Easy to refill as the boat water is piping hot when the engine is running.

We both had a little sleep during the day, then the shifts started.  We waited until the last of the windfarms and the calming of the traffic at around 10pm.  Mick slept from 10pm until 1.00am.  Then I slept from 1.00am till 05.30am.  Then he slept again 06.00am to 07.00am.  I did 4 hours in total and he did 4.5 in the graveyard shift.

People go mad for the Jurassic coast in the SW, but the coastline to Whitby is absolutely beautiful, especially on a sunny day.  We sailed slowly past Robin Hood’s bay in order to make the entry time of 10am, 2 hours before high water.  We settled on the visitor pontoon, awaiting the 12 noon bridge opening.

154 Nautical miles (177 normal miles) 28.5 hours.  I wish all night sails could be like this.

We will be here for a few days to enjoy the town, the fish and chips and see friends.