Thursday, 5 August 2021

Early Aug 2021 - Plymouth, Brixham (Torquay and Paignton)

26th July – Monday – Fowey to Plymouth

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Fowey Sunrise

Only 22 miles to sail from Fowey to Plymouth.  We gently rolled in the sunshine for 5 and a half hours to arrive at 11:00am.

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An easy route through Plymouth Sound and towards Plymouth Hoe.

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Even the lock was on free-flow, so no stopping just straight in to our berth, where we are met by a member of staff to take our ropes.  How civilised.

In the afternoon we took a taxi to Eurospars, nr Prince William Yard.  We needed a new Boom Car, for the in-mast furling system (our main sail is stored inside the mast, and pulls out along the boom) .  As the other one was worn and a new improved design had been created by the manufacturers Spar Craft.  It helps pull the sail out of the mast more smoothly.  Mick fitted the new Boom Car on our return.

We later went in search of food.  The Barbican area was very busy so we walked away and found the Crystal Garden Chinese, up a spiral staircase in a small room with plastic table cloths.  A restaurant to ourselves on a Monday night.  The food was excellent.  Don’t judge a book by it’s cover. 

27th July – Tuesday

Orientation around town and a new washroom bag for me.  All my toiletries, towels, hairdryer and extension lead, need a big bag.

28th July – Wednesday

In the afternoon old friends Graham and Pauline collected us and took us to their house.  They have finished renovations and it was good to see it.  We walked into Tavistock for dinner at Churchill Lane, a Mediterranean style restaurant.  Good food and good company.

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Dartmoor Ponies on the golf course near their house.

The morning after we split up.  Pauline and I went shopping in Tavistock, which has a good selection of local shops and a historic market hall, and then went household stuff shopping in Plymouth.  Mick and Graham went all things sailing shopping, including a sneaky look at new boats for Graham.  Great to see them both, and thanks for the use of their washing machine.

Overnight storm ‘Evert’ hit the SW coast.  The Scilly Isles took the brunt of the 70mph wind.  The RNLI had more than 20 callouts, with boats dragging their anchorages and mooring buoys.  One boat ended up on the rocks and another had their sails ripped.  Thank goodness for the safe shelter of Sutton Harbour.

30th July onwards

I took the opportunity to hit the shops.  As a real treat we did our weekly shop at M&S in town. 

We walked to the Hoe and had coffee with the best view. 

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Visited the Parade antiques arcade, nr the Barbican.

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Just a small sample of the eclectic choice on offer.

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A walk round the harbour gets us to the Mayflower Steps.  Near where the Pilgrim Fathers left the UK for America in Sept 1620.  Although you may remember they dropped in at Newlyn for food.  They mostly originated in East Anglia and only popped into Plymouth due to bad weather.  We can sympathise with that.

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The Barbican is a popular place for socialising and is surrounded by pubs and eateries.  The Jolly Roger pirate boat has disappeared since our last visit.

Sailors Info – Sutton Harbour

On our first day in Sutton, I asked where I could plug in my hairdryer, as the laundry room had drawn a blank.  Two days later a visit to the individual Wet Rooms was greeted by a brand new hairdryer and mirror, freshly installed in the hallway.  Whoop whoop, and a happy dance in the office, while I profusely thanked them for their prompt action to a lady sailors dilemma.

Sutton Harbour is an excellent marina, but this for me makes it a five star marina.

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Couches and tables are laid out on the deck where you can help yourself to free coffee, tea etc and chat with fellow sailors.

The help on arrival with the ropes makes for a great first impression.  And probably saves confusion and boat damage by tired arrivals.

Everything is spotless.  There are two sets of facilities and a laundry room.  The wifi is perfect. 

The town centre is nearby with every shop possible.  Plenty of restaurants and bars nearby. 

Chandlers at QAB Marina and Mick’s favourite chandlers bazaar nearby.

The marina gives good shelter and easy lock access.  Place fenders high in the lock, the rubber bumpers can leaves marks.

We highly recommend Sutton Harbour.  And thanks again for the hairdryer.

2nd August – Monday – Plymouth to Brixham

Yet another 06.30am start from Plymouth, on an overcast, but promising morning.

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Renney Rocks exiting Plymouth Sound.  The band of cloud passed over, leaving a sunny day.

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We passed Salcombe (above) and Dartmouth.  We have been to both before and we had heard reports of multiple rafting and crowded streets. 

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We rounded Start Point with it’s impressive lighthouse and crossed Start Bay.  The sea was calm and we rolled gently, where the over-falls normally rattle a sailors nerves.

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Neither of us have been to Brixham, and I only have childhood memories of Torquay.  We went to Brixham, as Torquay harbour was not taking any visitors who were not clients in their other marinas.  Brixham has a substantial fishing fleet and a very large marina.  We arrived at 14.30 after an easy 40 miles, which gave us plenty of time to have a good look around Brixham. 

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This skeleton greeted us on the harbourside advertising the next Pirate Festival.

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We then found the ‘Golden Hind’ which had disappeared from Plymouth.

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Fisherman’s memorial with visitors.

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Brixham harbourside is charming, with all the usual seaside shops.  There is also a decent High Street, with Co-Op and Tesco.  Also some very nice shops near the marina.

3rd August – Tuesday – Grand Day Out – Torquay and Paignton

We knew the weather was not going to hold and we wanted to get around Portland Bill to Weymouth on Wednesday.  So all my tourist exploits needed to be done in a full day out.

We noticed on a bus the day before that there is a ‘Torbay Day Rider’ bus ticket for £5 each.  So we got to the bus station at 10.30am.  Buses numbered 12 complete the circuit all day, there is one every 10 minutes.  (Note, if you like an open topped bus, look for the 112).

First to Torquay, via Paignton which took an hour.  It is only 8 miles, driver switch and heavy summer traffic causing delays.

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Torquay marina is right in the centre of town.  Mick found a lovely family run café to obtain the requisite Bacon and Sausage sandwich he had promised himself. 

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There are well kept gardens and a big wheel.  There is a large shopping centre and plenty of shops.  The promenade is more of a seaside walkway.

As time was short we hopped on the next bus to Paignton, which is only 2 miles away.  Normally we would walk.

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Paignton Beach and Pier, the tide was almost in.

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At the end of Paignton Pier, we got a good look at the cruise ships, which are currently anchored here with nowhere to go.  You can see Cunard Queen Victoria in the background.  We passed P&O Britannia on the way here.  Some are being used for UK circumnavigations at present.

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I have to say the pier was in very good order, not at all shabby.  But still fully brash and gaudy as it should be.

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We walked further on to Preston Sands and the pretty beach huts.

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Then to Paignton Harbour at the other end of the esplanade.

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Mick was tiring by this point, but I saw a sign for ‘Fairy Cove’, can’t miss that.

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So we settled in at the Harbour Lights for a well earned drink.

I popped upstairs to the loo’s and saw the back of a lady, but didn’t register, then coming outside I saw a guy who I then knew I recognised…..

Another Sliding Doors moment, as I said ‘Celeste’,  her husband turned first, as he said, no one else is called Celeste, so we knew you wanted us.  My lovely cousin and her husband Andy on their holidays.  After all our wandering during the day, it was maybe a 15 second window, in which we saw each other……

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We don’t know who was most shocked.  But we look really pleased.  And we had a nice chat.

Sadly, they had already had their drinks and had plans.  We knew we were leaving the following day, so a visit to the boat will have to wait.  But what a lovely surprise.

Sailors Info - Brixham Harbour

Very welcoming and easy to access.  Berth numbering runs from sea to shore along the pontoons, which is unusual.

Good facilities with sockets.  Tesco and Co-op nearby.  Poor wifi.  Much larger marina than we expected.

The fishing fleet is active, be vigilant.

Next stop Weymouth – ish.

Sunday, 1 August 2021

Late July 2021 – Falmouth and Fowey

13th July – Tuesday – Newlyn to Falmouth

After consulting with John on Solera we chose to leave at 07:00am to make the 36 miles to Falmouth.  Sailors have their own ways of weighing up the appropriate time to leave and sometimes it pays to chat.  We rolled through 3 and a half hours of SW cross tide, across Mounts Bay.  Gingernuts were consumed before breakfast.  We were rolling so much our breakfast cereal made a valiant attempt to escape the bowl. 

We pass ‘The Manacles’ infamous rocks, to be avoided, as we approach Falmouth.

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Entrance into Falmouth’s beautiful wide harbour in the sunshine.

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Paying attention to miss more rocks, marked by Black Rock beacon.

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Round Pendennis Point and a great view of Pendennis Castle.

Arriving in Falmouth at 2.30pm.  Which gave us a clear choice of moorings as everyone had just departed.  We moored on the outside of the Town Quay pontoon.  Lots more boats arrived later and we felt lucky to get a space so easily……... 

The Civil Service Yacht Club boat ‘Sea Essay’ arrived a short while later and rafted against us.  Being the Gents they are, they invited us for drinks.  Mostly ex Civil Service staff who have, via their Social Club, access to 3 sailing boats located around the country.  The boats are renewed every 3 years and are well used.  We enjoyed a jolly hour comparing notes and stories.  They stayed one night.

We ate out at Ploy Thai, near the marina, excellent.

14th July - Wednesday

A good re-orientation walk around Falmouth.

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Colourful flags to cool the main street.

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Alleys leading to the sea.

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Ancient paths with Smugglers vibes.

Purchased a new soap dish to replace the one I left in Padstow, occupational hazard.  And new Deckies, mine have become slippery and that is no good.

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I was delighted to see these ladies on their stall ‘Creative Mending’  they are part of the ‘Craftivism’ movement, which uses crafting in a modern and striking way to showcase good causes.  Currently ‘Stitch It, Don’t Ditch It’ is a mantra for not throwing things away prematurely.

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Later in the day we saw ‘Cadoha’, a boat that Mick has been following online.  Their USP is their dog ‘Hank’ which looks like Scooby Doo.  Mick managed to speak to them on the fuel berth.  Nice to touch base with people you feel you know.

15th July – Thursday

We walk passed the Maritime museum towards the beaches on the other side of Pendennis Point. 

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Gyllyngvase Beach looking North-ish.

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Gyllyngvase Beach looking South-ish.

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Lovely cool coastal path on a baking hot day.

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Finally Swanpool Beach.  It was lovely to see people enjoying the beaches.  We felt we could be anywhere in the world.

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St Mary’s Gardens gave welcome shade on the way back.  The sunshine here makes for huge plants.

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St Mary’s Gardens Folly

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Back to Castle Beach for a second look.

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To end a beautiful day we were invited for drinks on ‘Solera’ with John and Val.  They rafted up to us after their overnight detour up the Helford River.  We have met in Cherbourg, Cuxhaven and last week in Newlyn.  Great to catch-up and and compare stories.  I am sure we will see them again soon to reciprocate.

16th July – Friday

Big walk to Sainsbury's with a bonus McDonalds breakfast.

17th July – Saturday

We first met Jeremy and Tricia in Ipswich and spent many a cosy afternoon chatting on their Motor Yacht ‘Tudora’.  They have since been the proud owners of a spectacular Fifth Wheel Caravan.  They are now home for a well earned rest.

They collected us from the Museum and we travelled the narrow roads of Cornwall to their home village, for a quick tour of the church before lunch.

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Penwarne Barton Farm for lunch at the farm café.

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With great views over the sea.

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Another baking day, so we retired to the garden of their beautiful house.  Lovely spot for a cool drink and more chatting.  Then they dropped us off back in town.

Thank you so much to you both.  Looking forward to our next meet up. XXX

19th July – Monday

Evie’s second birthday.  Lovely video call yesterday.  Big Hugs.

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Falmouth is a major shipping port, from the boat we watched this Royal Auxiliary tanker being turned by 4 tug boats.

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In the afternoon when the sun wasn’t quite so hot we walked to Pendennis Castle and walked around the Moat.

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It was too late in the day to visit the Castle.  Maybe next time.

20th July – Tuesday

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On a scorching day it seemed a good idea to shelter in the National Maritime Museum.

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The vast main gallery makes an immediate impression.

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Notable items being ‘Father’s Day’ the smallest boat to cross the Atlantic.  Only a sitting position was possible for helming and sleeping!!!!

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Also good to see for real was Sir Ben Ainslie’s 2012 Olympic Winning dinghy.

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The famous ‘Boaty McBoatface’.

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Prior reading told us we could go to the top of the Museum Tower for a spectacular view.  Including our ‘Fleur’ on her exposed outer pontoon.

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Super yacht ‘Legend’ a 77m ex Russian Ice Breaker, with a £46m refit into a superyacht.  Watching her being pulled out of the harbour by tugs the day after was also entertaining.

The main exhibition for the year was about Monsters of the Deep, more for the children.  The rest of the museum was usual maritime museum items.  Pre-booking is currently essential.  Entrance fee £15 each.  An enjoyable way to spend a couple of hours out of the heat.

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Trevor and Rebecca appeared on ‘Dignity II’ and rafted to us.  They are also on their summer trip.  We last saw them in Heiligenhafen in Schleswig-Holstein in Germany on our Baltic trip.  They were on their way back from Sweden.  We first met them in Padstow and again in Ipswich.  Another good catchup, they stayed one night.   Good luck with your big adventure next year.

22nd July – Thursday

There are high winds forecast.  Mick, the harbour managers and staff and other boat owners spent most of the day moving boats and fending off new arrivals.  Only two boats were allowed to raft on the outer pontoon.  We had been rafting 3 deep the previous night and he was asked to move.

Yacht ‘Mabelann’ on the inside of the pontoon, loaned us two of their spare large fenders. 

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We usually have 3 fenders on each side.

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9 Fenders between ourselves and ‘Wizard’ owned by John and Maz, rafted to us.

We went to the Finn McCool pub, (named after an Irish mythical hunter-warrior) where you can buy a pint and eat your Fish and Chips, purchased around the corner.

23rd July – Friday

It was a very rocky afternoon, the boats bucking on their mooring ropes.  Very uncomfortable to be on board, we only went for a short walk, just to be relieved of the motion.  Mick also bought new deck shoes from the Discount Shoe store.  DEK deck shoes £39.99.

I went to the free museum above the Library, again for relief from the motion.  Very much worth a visit.

Falmouth has been very sociable.

24th July – Saturday – Falmouth to Fowey

We first returned the loaned Fenders to yacht ‘Mabelann’.  Very much appreciated and a sign of sailor’s helping each other in a storm.  Enjoy your onward adventures.  Thank you.

Mick decided it was time to move on after a rough couple of nights in the windy conditions.  We uncoupled ourselves from Wizard, by loosening the ropes and us slipping backwards into the now clear space behind.  Nice to meet you ‘Wizard’, I am sure we will meet again.

The idea was to move today and maybe have a worse ride, so that we got a full day in Fowey on Sunday.  Before moving to Plymouth on Monday, as we had booked a berth, due to high demand for spaces.

We set off at 10.00am and arrived at 16.30pm after 23 rough and swelly miles.  3m swell and rough seas with 20 knots of wind and a cross tide, made for a bumpy ride.

I spent 3 hours at the helm as did Mick to help with the seasickness.  

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Fowey Castle was a welcome site.  The afternoon had brightened, but the sea continued to roll.

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This guy gave us a start as he blended into the sea, in the middle of the channel.  Please stick to the side folks.  His oar was mostly in the water and his board was hidden in the swell.

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We were lucky to get a space on Number 2 pontoon in the River Fowey.  The harbourmaster came to collect his dues.

After a challenging day we ate onboard and enjoyed the calm of the river pontoon.  Until the cruise ships appeared!

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Island Sky and Hebridean Princess were quiet neighbours on the whole.  They usually spend their summers in Scotland, but Nicola Sturgeon did not want them in Scotland so they are happily plying their trade down here.

25th July – Sunday – The Joy of Fowey (pronounced FOY)

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By morning we had the pontoon to ourselves.

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We took a water taxi into town at 11.30am.  Hailed on VHF Channel 6.  £5 per person return.

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The classic Fowey shot on landing.  Red brick British Legion building and pink pub.

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We first walked right towards the car ferry.

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Car ferry to Polruan, across from Fowey.  Very pretty Blue and White ‘Ferryside’ house.

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Ice Cream shop.

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RNLI Dog, made of old wellies.

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We then walked through town and up towards the Castle and another Castle Beach.

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View from the castle towards Fowey.

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From inside the castle.  Which is very similar to Clitheroe Castle.  Worth the many steps.

After the walk to the castle and back we were ready for lunch.

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I had read in a leaflet from Becky and Trevor that the Gallant Sailing Club was a good place for a weary sailor to rest up.  The showers are open and visiting sailors are made welcome.

We spent the next 2 hours eating a wonderful Roast Duck lunch with all the trimmings, for only £12 each and then read the papers on the balcony overlooking the river.   Yacht clubs are known for reasonable meals and we were more than satisfied.

We waddled out to have pudding, Ice Creams at Rosie’s, then the return taxi ride at 4.00pm.  Followed by a little snooze on deck.  Epic Day.  We love Fowey.  Made yesterday’s long day worthwhile. 

Mick cleaned the fenders after their battering in Falmouth.

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Sailors Info – Falmouth Town Quay

Our stay in Falmouth was greatly enhanced by Chris on Motor Boat ‘Allegra’, moored across on the inside of the pontoon.  He had moved back from France to be near family and was enjoying his days living aboard and chatting to visiting sailors, offering his sage advice and vast knowledge of all things floating.  We wish you well Sir.

£30 per night.  Deal for 7 nights or more.  Try to get on an inside pontoon if Easterly winds are due.

Descent facilities with Laundry and Dryers.  £4.50 and £1 dry.  No plugs at all.  Wifi poor on jetty’s.

Tesco Express nearby, Sainsbury’s a 35 minute walk.

The town street is delightful and has every shop you will ever need.

We could happily live in Falmouth.

Fowey Harbour

2 x pontoons and a shore pontoon for short stays of 2 hours max.  Many visitor buoys.

Water Taxi £5 return.  No wifi.  Small Mace supermarket.  Many other shops for all your Pasty and Ice Cream needs.  Pubs and clothes shops.

The harbourmaster collects the dues via boat.  No electric or water, but there are bins on the pontoons, we took our rubbish with us.

Gallant Sailing Club gives a warm welcome with great food and excellent staff.

Next stop Plymouth