End July 2015 – Stavoren and Lelystad

23rd July – Thursday

We travelled to Stavoren from Hindeloopen today as high winds were forecast for the weekend.  The 9 miles only took 2 hours but it was a pleasant 10 – 15 knot sail. 

Stavoren is a main entrance point for the standing mast route to Leeuwarden and beyond.  Although we did not pass through the lock, the picture gives some idea of its traffic.

The town centre is approximately 15 minutes walk from the marina.  The most prominent feature being the Co-op supermarket where we stocked up.  There is a harbour-side with a small marina and a small number of restaurants.  The high street has a few shops and the best ‘Kebbelin’ (pieces of fish with sauce) we have had for a while. 

25th July – Saturday

My mind was distracted with the WI show at home today, our co-operative entry won a well deserved 3rd place, well done.

In Friesland ‘skutsjesilen’ which is the sailing of historical flat bottomed boats is a yearly event, which visits 11 towns with 14 boats culminating in a trophy ceremony in Sneek.  This is another reason we came to Stavoren after being hijacked into buying a flag supporting the event while we were in Leeuwarden.

Sadly due to the weather forecast the regatta was cancelled, above are the historic boats in harbour.

Our neighbour who was a local of Lelystad, knocked on the boat this morning to tell us that we must put extra ropes onto the boat prior to the impending storm, which was due to arrive late afternoon.  We were told we were facing the right way as the wind was due from the West.  He even insisted that we put a rope around the big bollard on the windlass (which lowers the anchor). 

We went for a walk around 2.00pm, the calm, and it started to rain just as we returned.  Then the wind was switched on.  At approx. 3.00pm it went from a moderate 20 knots to 30 knots almost immediately and for the next hour steadily rose to our maximum recorded of 58.9knots.  It continued at around 40 to 55 until approx. 8.00pm.  The video and photos we took during the event do not fully re-create the force of the storm. It is a very exciting experience for the first hour or so and then you just hold on. 

We thanked our neighbour for the extra measures, we knew it was coming but not quite how bad it was going to be, as the forecast was 40-45 knots, when it turned out to be nearer 60.  According to other people the day after, it was the highest recorded wind speeds in the area since records began in 1901.

Sailors Info:  Marina Stavoren has very easy access from the IJsselmere with wide, well spaced pontoons.  Euros 70.51 for 3 nights all inclusive.  Wifi was OK.  There is a bread shop on the marina, a restaurant, gallery, chandlers and a Co-op in town on its own little island (cross the main lock and turn right).

26th July – Sunday

A break in the weather was forecast for Sunday and gave us the window of opportunity to move to Lelystad.  Again the forecast for the following days was for high winds.  27 miles today which took almost 6 hours as we tacked across the inland sea enjoying the 10-15 knots of wind.

The lock at Lelystad is on the east end of the dyke dividing the Markermere and the IJsselmere.  The tower (above) can be seen for many miles as you follow the long procession of windmills to the lock.  Unusually there is not a smaller ‘Sport’ lock here and you go through with the big guys.  It was interesting for us as the barge passed on his way into the lock, I suspect even more interesting for the guy on his Jetski!! who did not seem phased at all.

Immediately after the lock you pass the ‘Batavia’ a replica ship and then see the large block of flats above, which is a good marker for the marina.

Sailors Info: Lelystad, Bataviahaven, south of the Houtribsluizen (Lock).  Euros 66 for 6 nights.  Buy 2 get 1 free.  Electronic SEP cards for the showers and electric.  7 minutes showering for 1 euro.  The marina is made of side-pontoons and you just find your own space.  The marina office is in the block of flats.  There is a bar which seems to be open most of the time but the restaurants only seem to open Thursday onwards.  There is a McDonalds and Subway and a few other small restaurants in the Outlet village nearby.  The nearest supermarket is an Albert Heijn approx 30 minutes walk (follow the red cycle path over the white bridge, ask for directions).  A shop-van comes to the marina in the morning (but does not have a bell, so you don’t know he is there) and more usefully, the lady from the bar takes bread orders in the afternoon and you collect and pay in the bar the following morning.  This place really needs a small supermarket.  Lelystat town is a one hour walk, where there are Deen and Jumbo supermarkets.

We had a walk around the following day and bumped into Edward on ‘Samphire’ in the bar, who we had met in Harlingen.  He is a cycling fan and we had a drink with him to help celebrate Frome’s 2nd win of the Tour de France.

Anthony Gormley’s sculpture ‘Exposure’ is on the headland after the lock, he of ‘Angel of the North’ fame.  See internet for the wittier comments, I liked it, but it was not universally well received.

Lelystad has 6 land sculptures, this is another on the way to the retail outlet.  Bataviastad is a large retail outlet like Fleetwood, Cheshire Oaks and Ashford.  Big names in a mock village layout.  There is a free bus runs from Amsterdam.

28th July – Tuesday

After Mondays high winds we needed a walk, so we went to the Nieuwland and Batavia Museums. 

There is a joint entrance fee of 16 Euros, but you can just go into the Batavia Museum for 11 Euros.  Flevoland is the new land which was created when the polder was formed and drained in the 1950s.  The museum explains the history and the engineering behind its creation.  There are some fascinating photos and films of people in traditional dress being rescued from their homes in storms prior to its creation.

The Bataviawerf museum is dedicated to the Batavia, a Dutch East India Company ship, reminiscent of the Titanic, in so much as it sank on its maiden voyage to Australia.  A replica has been made over the past 30 years and the museum has a blacksmiths, rope-makers, sail-makers, and wood carving centre.

Tours were advertised and ours took place at 13.20 with Jon Bedet (below), a volunteer guide.

We were his only two customers for his English tour and we received the full detailed tour.  He was very knowledgeable and answered all Mick’s questions with ease.  His enthusiasm for the subject was very infectious and we enjoyed our time with him immensely.  Thanks Jon!

29th July – Wednesday

Another very windy day, so we decided to walk to Lelystad.  It was an hour to walk there and the signage is poor.  The centre is at the other side of the railway station, which is very central and easy to find.  It is a New Town like Milton Keynes and has little character.  There is a shopping centre, which is not as big as the town would suggest.

We trudged the trolley back to Albert Heijn nearer to the Marina.  Where we treat ourselves to bonus spring rolls.

Watch out for these delightful trailers selling Vietnamese and Chinese delicacies.  Loempia are Vietnamese spring rolls and are served in a spring roll shaped tray with sweet chilli sauce.  Only 1 euro each and they just hit the spot after a long walk.

Flevoland is only 50 years old and obviously has a very new feel about it, which is in stark contrast to the beautiful, traditional towns we have previously encountered.  That said the engineer accomplishment is mind boggling.

Next stop Muiden.

Mid July 2015 – Take 2–Harlingen, Makkum and Hindeloopen

14th July – Tuesday – To Harlingen

The cruising guide indicated that the journey from Leeuwarden to Harlingen was dull, but we enjoyed it.  08:45 start to exit through the bridges in convoy around 09:00.  There was a short delay as the emergency services required to cross a bridge and it was lowered just before we got to it.  Much shuffling and reversing in the convoy but no bumps.  There were 10 bridges to negotiate during this trip and we did not have to moor at any of them, they opened as we approached, which was much easier.  We think it is worth tagging on to at least one other boat when making these passages as the bridge openings do seem to be more accommodating.

We liked this hobbit house, which we think was a tourist information stop for walkers.

The 12 mile journey took just under 4 hours and we arrived at the ‘Tjerk Hiddessluizen’ which will take us into the ‘Waddenzee’, after our visit to Harlingen.

The options are to go through this sluis and then through the bridges into the town canals, or take the VERY small exit on the left into the HWSV Yacht Club, which we did.

Sailors Info:  The HWSV Yacht club is highly recommended by us.  It is cheaper than staying in the town centre and the whole operation, from the Harbour-master to the Ambience are to be praised.  15 Euros per night and 50 cents each for everything else, electricity, water and showers.  The harbourmaster has a ready supply of change!  The moorings are boxes by the canal-side and are varying sizes so do not underestimate your width when asking for a berth.  There are 3 supermarkets Albert Heijn, Jumbo and Aldi which are all at the other end of town near the main harbour and to the left.  Chandlers on the central canal.

On Wednesday we came across a group of gents alighting from a German tall ship, all wearing the same outfits.

The tall ship in Harlingen Harbour.

Forward 24 hours and they turned out to be the ‘Schips Ahoy’ male voice choir.  They gave several rousing renditions including ‘The Banana Boat Song’ and ‘Wild Rover’, with actions.  They were appearing in the ‘Zommermarkt’, evening summer market which lined the main street on Thursday.

During our stay we walked to the Commonwealth Graves, which was very moving.  They were so young and came so far to die, most were Britiish, Canadians and Australians.

Harlingen is a good place to stroll around.  The town has just enough shops and the canals are many and varied and provide good people watching.  The only slightly strange thing is the ‘Musak’ (Music) which comes out of speakers on the lamp-posts.  Ultravox ‘Vienna’ whilst doing your shopping is a bit weird and not necessary, as its a lovely town.  The ferries leave from here to take people to the Friesland Islands so it can be quite busy too.  Harlingen is one of the 11 Friesland Cities.  We stayed here for 5 nights.

Frites in a snazzy, fold out container, with an integrated fold out cup for the Mayo, genius.

19th July – Sunday – To Makkum

I met a lady in Medemblik who said we should go to Makkum so here goes.  It is only 11 miles but once again we got up a little early to get the 9:00 sluis, previously mentioned.   We then negotiated the zig-zag channel into the sea.  Then 10 miles motor-sailing to the ‘Lorient’ Sluis which takes you from the Zaddenzee to the IJsselmere. 

Sailors Info:  Marina Makkum is a holiday resort with a large, modern marina.  20 Euros per night with a 10 Euro deposit for the SEP card, used for showers and garbage disposal.  Yes, there are smart cards to operate the bins!  We had only seen these in city centres so far.  Excellent facilities, shops and supermarket on site.   It is a good 30 minute walk into Makkum.  There you have the choice of the town marina, which is smaller and more convenient for the town, but is overshadowed by a hangar sized boat building shed. The choice is yours.  There are lots of chandlery suppliers, at the marina and on the walk to town.

Makkum itself is compact and though it is very charming, that is it.

Makkum Canal-side

Makkum square and main street which had a traditional fair in full swing.

Meanwhile at the quayside.  Have you ever wondered how they transport a new ships mast.  Answer, strap a two wheeled trolley to it and put the other end into the back of a small hatchback!  Beautiful workmanship.

21st July – Tuesday – To Hindeloopen

3 hours to complete 9 miles, as we sailed most of the way with the 20 knot wind abeam.

Hindeloopen is another of the Friesland cities.  When the lake freezes there is a 200km Ice-Skating race which takes in all eleven towns.  Therefore, Hindeloopen is home to an Ice-Skating Museum.

The lock-keepers house is very famous and its occupant appears to have a talent for abstract art, which is displayed throughout the garden.

The other side of the lock-keepers house, with the lock open.  It is opened manually by turning a wheel.

You will see signs for this market, make sure you go in.

It is a wealth of junk, objet and stuff which is difficult to portray in one image.  It is housed in an old barn and the building itself is worth a look.

Hindeloopen is small but the streets are winding and the houses are picture perfect.  The old ships commodores used to live in the large houses when at home and their families would de-camp to the small houses in the gardens when the commodore was away at sea.  Many of the small houses still exist.

We witnessed a rescue by the ‘KNRM’ Dutch RNLI, a boat had grounded in the channel just outside the harbour.  It took the lifeboat 20 minutes plus to manoeuvre him free.  Beware, stick to the channel.  

Hindeloopen is also known for its painted furniture.  A window shutter is shown above.

The premises where the painting takes place allows you to watch the artist at work.  It is reminiscent of Canal-Boat painting.

There is also a high quality fabric shop opposite the tourist information centre.

Sailors Info:  The Hylper harbour is on the right as you enter.  It is very Padstow-esk and you will become a tourist attraction.  On the left is the larger marina.  23.50 Euros per night with everything included and excellent wifi.  There is a Croissant shop on the marina and a small, well stocked supermarket in the centre of town.  The marina has a chandlers.

The town is compact so no directions are really needed, just enjoy its charms.

Mid July 2015–Lemmer, Sneek and Leeuwarden

6th July Monday – To Lemmer – 09.00–14.30

The journey from Medemblik to Lemmer took us straight across the IJsselmeer.  The wind was behind us for most of the 23 miles which took us 5 and a half hours.  The steering was hard going with the direction of the wind but we sailed 20 of the 23 miles with just the Genoa maintaining 5 to 6 knots.  Beware low water of approx 1.5m near the middle, which was startling but fine.   The water was an extraordinary light jade green colour, probably due to the greenery below.  The crossing is overlooked by a line of enormous, modern windmills, which made the time drag, as they were so big is seemed to take an age to get to them.

The lock at Lemmer has impressive towers marking its entrance.  A charge of 5 euros is collected in the lock itself.

Before the lock, the town looks quite industrial, but the main street is charming, lined at each side with Cafes and Restaurants and visiting boats and yachts lining the canal sides.  It seems that people like to be seen in their boats in Lemmer.

We went through the lock and 3 bridges to get to Jachthaven Lemmer Binnen.

Sailors Info: Jachthaven Lemmer Binnen costs 20 euros per night with free electricity.  Showers are 50cents for 3 minutes!  (A man must define those times).  The facilities are very good.  A short 10 minute walk towards towns brings you to a shopping complex with Lidl, Aldi and Jumbo supermarkets.  There is a chandlers on the walk into town and another across the main bridge.  The Market is on Thursday.

The holiday season has just started in Holland.  To hire a boat under 15 metres you do not need any qualifications, so anyone can hire a 14.95 metre motor boat without any experience. 

Our first encounter was of the German kind.  We stayed in Lemmer for 4 nights due to high winds, but high winds do not deter holiday makers.  So the hire boat driven by our German friend slewed across the back of our boat and thanks to them shouting at each other, we were alerted to their plight and were eager to help, as were the people in the boat to our right.  It took 6 people and much pulling of ropes to land him safely into his mooring.  He had to be shown by our neighbours how to tie up the boat.

Having not learned any lesson he lurched out the following morning, again in winds higher than we would attempt and without looking up and down stream, narrowly missed an oncoming motor boat.

Anyway we had a good few days in Lemmer, our mooring was near the canal so we enjoyed the passing boats.  There is an artificial beach complete with Beach Complex.  The marina also catered well for campervans.

10th July – Friday – To Sneek

Only 13.5 miles to Sneek starting at 10.00 and arriving at 13:00.  Just 2 bridges and an encounter with overhanging trees, no damage done.  The canal into Sneek is a small diversion from the Standing Mast Route and well worthwhile.  There are several bridges into Sneek if you wish to stay in the town by the canal.  It was Friday and looked a bit busy so we did a U-Turn at the first bridge and settled for a canal side mooring just outside town.  Fate lead us to meet the owners of motor boat ‘Liza’ who in our very short meeting, as we moored up, were full of of useful information and encouragement.  Sadly we did not get their names.

Our canal side mooring ‘Zomerrak’ gave us great views of the comings and goings into town.

The town itself is a real surprise, it is the sailing centre of Friesland and has a comprehensive shopping area, market and squares with cafes aplenty.

Just liked these Art Deco toilets.

The ‘Water Gate’ is the most famous landmark.

We enjoyed an evening out in the lovely squares, where an Irish Pub had a band which was entertaining the whole area.

As mentioned we had a ring side seat for the promenade of boats and yachts which came into town on Saturday.  Here are some of the highlights.

The house-boat above is driven from the ‘veranda’ at the front of the boat.  Propelled by an outboard motor at the back.  Don’t like the neighbours, no problem with this.

Two small boats rafted together with 8 people aboard.

Not to be outdone, 2 barges rafted together, with party in full swing.

The capacity winner went to these 20 guys crammed in this boat, not a life-jacket in sight!! 

I could go on, all we had to do was sit there and the entertainment came to us.

Sailor’s Info:  Zomerrak is a municipal mooring.  The harbourmaster visits in the afternoon to collect the dues.  31.50 Euros for 2 nights inc Electricity.  50 cents for a shower in the good facilities.  They close at 21.00 but there are others in the car park nearby, which were also good.  There is a Lidl near the marina and a small Albert Heijn at the other side of town.  Entertainment - free of charge.

12th July – Sunday – To Leeuwarden – 09.30-15:15

Leeuwarden is the capital of Friesland and a main stop on the Standing Mast Route.  It is 22 miles from Sneek and it’s a interesting journey.  We were going to stop at Grou but were advised to carry on through. 

There were many bridges to negotiate.

The huge open sluis attracted some large company. 

There is a signpost for the Standing Mast Route, just outside ‘Grou’ above.  This is a different route than the one described in Brian Navin’s cruising guide, but it is the route in the current Standing Mast Route book.

The route took us from Grou to Leeuwarden in a more direct way, through the countryside, with fields on either side for several miles.  Very peaceful motoring for us.

Brave sailing for the traditional boys, i suppose this is what they were designed for.  We do not sail in narrow canals.

We passed many of these barns which had a home attached or as part of the structure.

Not sure if this sign was a help or a hindrance.

We got talking to a lovely young couple aboard this yacht ‘Laura Elenie’.  They had been camper-vanner’s and were giving this family vessel a try.  We hope they have many happy years sailing, as they seemed to be really enjoying themselves.

This road bridge just outside Leeuwarden is the coolest we have ever seen.  It raised a chunk of road high into the air and twisted it to one side, just to be flashy. 

There is a toll charge to enter Leeuwarden of 7euros which is expertly collected from this bridge control office, by a man with a fishing rod with a small clog on the end, into which you deposit your 7 euros.  Thank goodness there was a sign warning us or there could be a multiple pile up, whilst looking for change.

Sailors Info:  Top Tip, try to park on the right side.  It’s an easier walk into the centre.  The picture above shows one of the electronic pay machines along the canal side in Leeuwarden.  They are easy to use with English options, just insert the length of the boat, number of days and electricity requirements and a Card will be deposited.  The SEP card is also used to access the shower blocks and activate the showers.  A 5 euro deposit is taken for the cards.  The charge was 29 euros for 2 nights.   

The bridge above is the last one before the moorings start.  The wonky tower is a good landmark.

There is a Jumbo supermarket 300 metres after the next bridge.

‘Fleur’ pictured on the left in her canal side mooring.  Again beware of over-hanging trees.  It’s amazing how the motor boats take all the moorings with no trees, Grrrr.

The cutest little ferry operates to transport you to the other side of the river for a nominal fee, it is free at commuter times.  The ferry man was very helpful with the pay machine and town information.

Leeuwarden Town centre.

The hall in the market square is now a restaurant.

Leeuwarden is a large town with plenty to see and lovely canal-side moorings.