End July 2016–Concarneau and Loctudy

23rd July – Saturday To Concarneau

We have visited Concarneau before and were hoping it would live up to our memories.

The entrance shows promise with the large buoyed channel and the marina nestled in front of the citadel.  The 29 miles had started with rolly seas, but became windy and sunny in the afternoon, taking us 6 and a half hours from 09:00.

I stumbled on the Festival Du Chien Jaune on my way to find bread.

It is a 20 plus year annual crime writers event named after a ‘Maigret’ detective novel.  Authors lined the marquee eager to sign their wares.  Sadly it could have been Alfred Hitchcock and I would have been none the wiser.  As with all French events it involved food and music and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves.

24th July – Sunday

We had a walk around the citadel and then spotted lots of small boats in the marina behind.

The boats belonged to the ‘Tour Finstere de la Voile’ (Finistere Sailing Boat Tour)

Another jolly event with a motley crew of Jazz musicians on the quayside.

25th July - Monday

Market day in Concarneau, the picture shows the market hall in the background.  We are constantly surprised at the high cost of Strawberries (excelled here at 5.50 euros a punnet) and Chickens at these markets in comparison to the supermarkets and back home.

We later went for a walk up the coast to the two small beaches to the north of the town, which we totally missed last time.  What will we find next time?

26th July - Tuesday

A view inside the Citadel on the main street.  It is lined with touristy shops and is very busy at present in French holiday season.

A local events page advertised Bretonne dancing in the Citadel at 18:00.  There seems to be something on most nights in the small amphitheatre at the end of the citadel.  The picture of the costumed dancers was enough to draw us in for a show.

Turns out it was a mass Bretonne dancing class.  I have previously mentioned festivals with shuffle dancing in circles.  So of course I joined in.  A few dances in I was getting the hang of it when they started with hand movements also.  Well it burned off todays Ice Cream.

Busy cafe on the main street.

If you are ever passing Concarneau, please stop for a look, it is lovely.

Concarneau Marina

33 Euro per night.  Market on a Monday.  Carrefour city in the square behind the market hall and a large Intermarche on the harbour-side behind the Citadel.  The facilities are OK with a card system for hot water.  Obtain a shower card (before disrobing) from the office, swipe it, enter the shower cubicle number and ‘#’ for 10 minutes of hot water.  Beware of backing into the tap handle for instant cold water, we both did it and yelped. Wifi good.  Glennan boat charters operate from here and we had dozens of teenaged scouts mooning about the pontoons for 2 days waiting for good weather. 

27th July – Wednesday – To Loctudy

Loctudy is a good stopping point before the return journey through the Raz de Sein.  Only 12 miles from Concarneau in the Mist and Drizzle.  Loctudy is a fishing port and the number of fishing pots on the approach prove this.

The main street makes Loctudy look like a bit of a one-horse town, but persevere to the end and make a right turn and walk to the older part of town.  The small 12th century chapel next to the main church is charming inside and out.

The fishing harbour is on the other side of the breakwater from the marina.

It is quite famous locally for its fresh fish which come straight off the boats into the ‘Poisonneries’ fish shops on the harbour side.  Crowds gather as the boats arrive.

Otherwise Loctudy offers camping and water born activities at designated activity centres.

Loctudy Marina

33 Euros per night.  Modern, camp site like facilities are OK.  The visitor moorings are well signposted and well marked.  Try to get on the first inside pontoon, with your stern to the sea, as it offers a lovely aspect while sitting on the boat.

View from Loctudy visitor berths.

The Carrefour supermarket is a good 20 minute walk out of the marina and aim right.  The office will give you a map, good luck.  There is a very small shop on the main street but good bakeries.

Next stop Camaret via St Evette

Mid July 2 2016 – Crouesty and Port Louis

18th July – Monday – To Crouesty from Vannes

We left our lovely riverside mooring in Vannes for a short hop to Crouesty, which is located to the south of the mouth of the Morbihan Sea.  We departed our mooring to make the 08:30 bridge out of town and into the Morbihan.  We had a pleasant hour and a half trip around the islands to the mouth of the sea, where the tide grabs and propels you at 11 knots out into the Quiberon bay. We arrived at 11:00 after just 12 miles and went straight to the Diesel pontoon.

Crouesty is a huge marina and space is limited for visitors. 

The wind was gusting to 20 knots as we found our visitor mooring and unfortunately the wind caught us as we were manoeuvring.  Our activities attracted all the Meerkats out of their boats who offered help which was gladly received.  As I was fending off another boat, leaning on the boat hook, the boat moved and I very nearly went overboard.  I was saved by the Guard Wire, which held me at thigh level as I clung on until I regained my footing, then I had to carry on until we successfully moored.  Someone would have definitely earned £250 for the video clip.

Above is the worst of my bruises.  I was pretty shaken up.  A little later I had a good walk round the market to calm myself.

The market stretched all the way around the large marina, along the route of the many tourist shops and cafes which line the harbour-side.

We later walked to the small town of Arzon and the large Intermarche at the other side of the marina.  I think the walking really helped me not to be too stiff the following day.

19th July – Tuesday

Another ‘scorchio’ day, so we got up early and raided the Intermarche supermarket before the sun came up fully.  We then sheltered for the rest of the day until 4:00pm when we went for a walk.

On arrival the marina at Crouesty gave us a leaflet for free entry for two people to the ‘Cairn du Petit Mont’.  No, we did not know what it was either, but you know us, so off we went.

The seaside path winds its way around the headland.  At times it is very overgrown and feels like you are walking through a maze.

Occasional signs indicated that we were heading in the right direction.  ‘Tumulus’ is the word you see on Brown signs for ancient Megaliths.  It is an approximate 2km walk from the marina, just 30 minutes or so.

We were greeted by Julian who gave us a talk in English and pointed us in the right direction around the site.  It was first created 4,700 years BC, so almost 7,000 years old and therefore older than the Egyptian Pyramids.  The Gulfe de Morbihan was just rivers at this time and the site would have been on a prominent headland. 

The Germans used the cairn as a bunker during WWII, and weirdly probably saved it.  They did damage one of the tombs but the other 2 are still intact.

Feel like Wilma Flintstone.  The cairn forms a kind of Pyramid over the tombs.  The walls were below ground level when it was discovered.

Mind your head.

One of the carvings on the tomb walls.  The cairn was a very unexpected but fascinating find for us and we are very grateful to the marina for the ticket.

Crouesty Marina

35 euros per night makes Crouesty the most expensive so far in France.  With over 1400 berths it is a large and impersonal place.  There are a limited number of visitors berths, which have narrow gaps between the pontoons.  It is surrounded by holiday flats and villas and lined by tourist shops and cafes.  The office is new and efficient.  The facilities are good and are located on the harbour-side and not in the office complex.  There is a boulangerie and an Intermarche supermarket.  The dorey boat will take you across the marina to the supermarket and return you with your purchases as part of the service.  It is a 20 minute walk.  Wifi was OK.  It is well set up for families.

20th July – Wednesday – Back to Port Louis

We are going back to Port Louis to meet Malcolm and Joanna our friends from Whitby, so Crouesty will be our furthest point south this season.

We make the 31 miles from Crouesty in 7 hours 09:30 – 16:30.  With rolly seas we set off under leaden skies, but the sun appeared later.

After dinner Malcom and Joanna came around for drinks and a good catch-up.  It is so nice to see people from home.

21st July – Thursday

After a lazy day with a walk around Port Louis bumping into familiar faces, we had drinks on ‘Lady Hamilton’ with Malcolm and Joanna then went out for dinner at Il Pirata, the much recommended Pizzeria in town. 

We had charcuterie to share and thin crispy pizzas.

It is good to talk to fellow sailors about the trials and tribulations of life on board in close quarters.   We appreciate how lucky we are.

22nd July – Friday

Joanna casting off on Lady Hamilton the following morning.  Bon Voyage and thanks for your company.  Their blog ladyhamilton2016.wordpress.com is a great read.

In the afternoon we had a walk around to the other side of Port Louis and came to Port Locmalo.

A small sea named ‘Petit Mer de Gavres’, and a lovely quiet bay away from the madding crowds.

The harbour-side cafe at Port Louis has music on a Friday night and the boaters all listen from their boats in the marina.

Next stop Concarneau.

Mid July 2016 – Benodet, Port Louis and Vannes/Morbihan Sea

7th July – Thursday – To Benodet.

We had a sunny day with no wind and a smooth sea for the 32 miles trip to Benodet.  Started at 09:30 and arrived at 15:30.  Our first calm day for many a week.

Benodet is a small seaside town, with a really nice feel to it.  Not many shops, and a little touristy stuff on the seaside.  It has an elegance about it.  The marina is on the river and the tide flows rapidly, pinning the boat to the pontoon.  We were on the outside of the visitors pontoon, and only small motor boats gave us any wake to speak of.

We met Paul and Maria on Samoda and had a few drinks and a chinwag, a pleasant evening.

8th July – Friday

We walked into Benodet town, which is a 10 minute walk along the newly refurbished towpath, which is a great improvement on the last path.

9th July – Saturday – To Quimper on the bus.

Quimper is located at the end of the River Odet, further up than Benodet,   The bus fare was only 6 euros return for two people.  To sail here would have meant anchoring down river and using the dinghy into town.

We had no preconceptions of Quimper and were delighted to find a walled city, with a large cathedral and beautiful old buildings and winding streets and alleyways.

A particularly good example of a half timbered Macaronerie.  I know, a whole shop full of Macaroons!

We treated ourselves to lunch of Gallettes (filled savoury pancakes), as the bus wait was quite long and it would be rude not to.  Quimper is a good day out and there was a huge meandering market.

We returned to Benodet and then did a big shop at the Carrefour, as we know the next place is not great on supermarkets.

10th July – Sunday

While Mick watched the Grand Prix I went to find the Brocante (Antiques Market/Boot Sale).

I walked along the sea front and ended up asking someone directions.

It was in the centre of the town in the main car park.  A real mix of professionals and car-booters.

I got back just in time to watch, and not watch, with the tension, Andy Murray winning Wimbeldon, yeah!

Benodet Marina

With a pleasant aspect by the side of the river, this is a good stop to recharge after the harder sailing days.  At 29 euros per night, it has Ok facilities which currently do not need tokens for the jetons, hurray.  There is a boulangerie at the end of the new path.  The supermarket is a good and pretty 20 minute river side walk in the other direction.  Emerge onto the road and look right to the large roundabout for a Carrefour.  The wifi was poor, but free.

11th July – To Port Louis, Near Lorient in Southern Brittany

A 07:30 start for the 32 miles to Port Louis arriving at 14:00.  7 and a half hours of rolling sea, which was hard to steer through but not nauseating.  We have both had a cold for the last couple of weeks and just rested for the remainder of the day.

12th July – Tuesday

We gave Fleur a good clean after the rain subsided and the sun and wind arrived.

Port Louis holds a night market on Tuesdays, which bustles with people and music.

13th July – Wednesday

Managed to do some washing.  The overcast days of the past few weeks have made it difficult to fit in between sailing trips.

There were fireworks tonight for the eve of Bastille Day.

Port Louis Marina

The marina has vastly improved since the porta-cabins of our last visit.  Very swish facilities.  30 euros per night, wifi OK.  A very small supermarket sells the essentials and the boulangerie just across from the marina is excellent.  Night market, Tuesdays during the season.

14th July – Thursday – To Vannes in the Morbihan Sea

Vannes is located in the north-east corner of the Morbihan inland sea, which is 10 miles wide and 5 miles across.  We had an 8 hour trip from 08:00 to 16:00 for the 42 miles.  For 6 hours we had a strong under-current in the sea, which caused the boat to roll from side to side continuously.  We had planned to go to Crouesty at the mouth of the Morbihan, but on arrival Mick calculated that the timing was correct to enter the Morbihan on the last of the flood tide, so that we would arrive at Vannes in time for the 4 o’clock bridge, near local high water.  The current within the Morbihan was strong even at neap (low) tides and we found ourselves travelling at 8.2 knots over the ground with a boat speed of 4.5 knots. 

For anyone who has sailed in Windermere, it feels familiar.

Beautiful lake side scenery, punctuated by small islands.

And the first opportunity to use the zippable window in the spray hood.  Enables air to pass through on hot days.

The pilotage book for Vannes says to keep close to the pink house, no missing that instruction.

We arrived at the swing bridge outside Vannes at 15:45, and waited on the mid river pontoon until it opened at 16:30.

The marina dorey took our details at the bridge and gave us a birth number.  We were 219 of 225 so away from the town noise but only a 5 minute walk. 

A Bastille Day parade was just ending as we walked into town.

These colourful characters continued through town.

I watched the Bastille Day fireworks from bed through the porthole as they started at 23:50.  At the same time as the tragedy in Nice.

15th July – Friday

We had a good walk around Vannes.  It is yet another beautiful medieval walled city.  The pictures speak for themselves.

The east gate and colourful cafe.

Animal carvings on a shop.

Part of the town ramparts and formal garden.

The old town wash-house, I would not be keen to use that water!

Saturday Street Market.

And busy market hall.

One of the many picturesque streets within the city ramparts.

17th July – Sunday – To Auray by bus.

As we are moving on tomorrow we decided to go the Auray on the bus.  It is located in the north-west area of the Morbihan Sea and is renowned for its pretty harbour.

Top Tip : The number 19 bus takes you from the Liberation bus station which is a 20 minute walk up into town.  Only 2 euros per person each way.  We got off at the Gare (station) and walked 30 minutes in total to get to the harbour.  The ‘La Ballon de JFK’ stop is only 15 minutes from the harbour and was used on our return journey.

The top of the town is nice and leads via a ‘Hovis’ style hill to the pretty harbour.

Where I found my ultimate French street.

The 17th century bridge frames every tourist view of this beautiful harbour.

We investigated the sailing route and were glad we came by bus.

We have been constantly delighted by the half timber towns of Brittany and hope our pictures do them justice.

Vannes Marina

Do not be put off my the tales of over-crowding as we had to problem getting a space for Bastille weekend.  30 euros per night with good free wifi.  Large shower cubicles and good overall facilities in the Capitinaire building, across the floating bridge from the Tourist information centre.  Casino Supermarket, small but useful on the main street.  Market on Sat and Wed, indoor market every day.  There is no diesel available here. 

Next stop Crouesty at the mouth of the Morbihan.