Mid July 2016 – Benodet, Port Louis and Vannes/Morbihan Sea

7th July – Thursday – To Benodet.

We had a sunny day with no wind and a smooth sea for the 32 miles trip to Benodet.  Started at 09:30 and arrived at 15:30.  Our first calm day for many a week.

Benodet is a small seaside town, with a really nice feel to it.  Not many shops, and a little touristy stuff on the seaside.  It has an elegance about it.  The marina is on the river and the tide flows rapidly, pinning the boat to the pontoon.  We were on the outside of the visitors pontoon, and only small motor boats gave us any wake to speak of.

We met Paul and Maria on Samoda and had a few drinks and a chinwag, a pleasant evening.

8th July – Friday

We walked into Benodet town, which is a 10 minute walk along the newly refurbished towpath, which is a great improvement on the last path.

9th July – Saturday – To Quimper on the bus.

Quimper is located at the end of the River Odet, further up than Benodet,   The bus fare was only 6 euros return for two people.  To sail here would have meant anchoring down river and using the dinghy into town.

We had no preconceptions of Quimper and were delighted to find a walled city, with a large cathedral and beautiful old buildings and winding streets and alleyways.

A particularly good example of a half timbered Macaronerie.  I know, a whole shop full of Macaroons!

We treated ourselves to lunch of Gallettes (filled savoury pancakes), as the bus wait was quite long and it would be rude not to.  Quimper is a good day out and there was a huge meandering market.

We returned to Benodet and then did a big shop at the Carrefour, as we know the next place is not great on supermarkets.

10th July – Sunday

While Mick watched the Grand Prix I went to find the Brocante (Antiques Market/Boot Sale).

I walked along the sea front and ended up asking someone directions.

It was in the centre of the town in the main car park.  A real mix of professionals and car-booters.

I got back just in time to watch, and not watch, with the tension, Andy Murray winning Wimbeldon, yeah!

Benodet Marina

With a pleasant aspect by the side of the river, this is a good stop to recharge after the harder sailing days.  At 29 euros per night, it has Ok facilities which currently do not need tokens for the jetons, hurray.  There is a boulangerie at the end of the new path.  The supermarket is a good and pretty 20 minute river side walk in the other direction.  Emerge onto the road and look right to the large roundabout for a Carrefour.  The wifi was poor, but free.

11th July – To Port Louis, Near Lorient in Southern Brittany

A 07:30 start for the 32 miles to Port Louis arriving at 14:00.  7 and a half hours of rolling sea, which was hard to steer through but not nauseating.  We have both had a cold for the last couple of weeks and just rested for the remainder of the day.

12th July – Tuesday

We gave Fleur a good clean after the rain subsided and the sun and wind arrived.

Port Louis holds a night market on Tuesdays, which bustles with people and music.

13th July – Wednesday

Managed to do some washing.  The overcast days of the past few weeks have made it difficult to fit in between sailing trips.

There were fireworks tonight for the eve of Bastille Day.

Port Louis Marina

The marina has vastly improved since the porta-cabins of our last visit.  Very swish facilities.  30 euros per night, wifi OK.  A very small supermarket sells the essentials and the boulangerie just across from the marina is excellent.  Night market, Tuesdays during the season.

14th July – Thursday – To Vannes in the Morbihan Sea

Vannes is located in the north-east corner of the Morbihan inland sea, which is 10 miles wide and 5 miles across.  We had an 8 hour trip from 08:00 to 16:00 for the 42 miles.  For 6 hours we had a strong under-current in the sea, which caused the boat to roll from side to side continuously.  We had planned to go to Crouesty at the mouth of the Morbihan, but on arrival Mick calculated that the timing was correct to enter the Morbihan on the last of the flood tide, so that we would arrive at Vannes in time for the 4 o’clock bridge, near local high water.  The current within the Morbihan was strong even at neap (low) tides and we found ourselves travelling at 8.2 knots over the ground with a boat speed of 4.5 knots. 

For anyone who has sailed in Windermere, it feels familiar.

Beautiful lake side scenery, punctuated by small islands.

And the first opportunity to use the zippable window in the spray hood.  Enables air to pass through on hot days.

The pilotage book for Vannes says to keep close to the pink house, no missing that instruction.

We arrived at the swing bridge outside Vannes at 15:45, and waited on the mid river pontoon until it opened at 16:30.

The marina dorey took our details at the bridge and gave us a birth number.  We were 219 of 225 so away from the town noise but only a 5 minute walk. 

A Bastille Day parade was just ending as we walked into town.

These colourful characters continued through town.

I watched the Bastille Day fireworks from bed through the porthole as they started at 23:50.  At the same time as the tragedy in Nice.

15th July – Friday

We had a good walk around Vannes.  It is yet another beautiful medieval walled city.  The pictures speak for themselves.

The east gate and colourful cafe.

Animal carvings on a shop.

Part of the town ramparts and formal garden.

The old town wash-house, I would not be keen to use that water!

Saturday Street Market.

And busy market hall.

One of the many picturesque streets within the city ramparts.

17th July – Sunday – To Auray by bus.

As we are moving on tomorrow we decided to go the Auray on the bus.  It is located in the north-west area of the Morbihan Sea and is renowned for its pretty harbour.

Top Tip : The number 19 bus takes you from the Liberation bus station which is a 20 minute walk up into town.  Only 2 euros per person each way.  We got off at the Gare (station) and walked 30 minutes in total to get to the harbour.  The ‘La Ballon de JFK’ stop is only 15 minutes from the harbour and was used on our return journey.

The top of the town is nice and leads via a ‘Hovis’ style hill to the pretty harbour.

Where I found my ultimate French street.

The 17th century bridge frames every tourist view of this beautiful harbour.

We investigated the sailing route and were glad we came by bus.

We have been constantly delighted by the half timber towns of Brittany and hope our pictures do them justice.

Vannes Marina

Do not be put off my the tales of over-crowding as we had to problem getting a space for Bastille weekend.  30 euros per night with good free wifi.  Large shower cubicles and good overall facilities in the Capitinaire building, across the floating bridge from the Tourist information centre.  Casino Supermarket, small but useful on the main street.  Market on Sat and Wed, indoor market every day.  There is no diesel available here. 

Next stop Crouesty at the mouth of the Morbihan.