Early July 2016–Roscoff, L’Aberwrach, Camaret, St Evette

27th June – Monday – Perros Guirec to Roscoff

The weather gods have been playing with us in the last week or so.  We set off from Perros Guirec to Roscoff at 11:00, the skies were overcast and the wind had a chill.  The 26 miles took 6 hours as there was a heavy swell, which meant I steered for 4 hours.  Late afternoon turned out sunny and it was just starting to settle down and be peaceful, when we were buzzed by a Mirage Jet.  Mick was at the navigation table and shot out like a rabbit.  I had pulled the brim of my hat down around my ears as the most astonishing sound hit us.  We have been to displays of Eurofighters and Tornados at Windermere, but nothing sounded like that.  By the time we looked after it, it was gone.  They must be allowed to fly lower over the sea!

The next two days were very rainy and we got drenched on a short walk to town.  To the extent that Mick decided his pants would not now need washing.

30th June – Thursday – Bus to Morlaix

As there is no supermarket in Roscoff, we took the bus to Morlaix.  The bus goes through Saint Pol and there is also a large Super U supermarket there.

Morlaix is most famous for its viaduct, which dominates the town.  It is possible to sail into Morlaix and moor at the town quay.

This would be quite a sight to wake up to.

There are many half timbered buildings in the town, which gives it distinction.

They are scattered around the town and are a delight to stumble upon.  Interestingly a few of them were for sale, possibly as they would be such a responsibility.

There is a decent shopping centre and walking along the river brings you to old manufacturing buildings which were used for Tobacco manufacture, hence Morlaix’s trading history.

La Terrasse cafe near the viaduct typifies the classy nature of the town with its small streets and alleyways, there to be discovered.

We took advantage of the ‘Intermarche’ supermarket and purchased a new hairdryer.  So my quest for the best plug socket in France continues.  We then returned on the 40 minute bus ride, a bargain at only 2 euro each way per person.

1st July – Friday

Walked into Roscoff again, it is only a 20 minute walk from the marina.  Follow the ‘Vieux Port’ signs.  Again Roscoff is a place people rush through from the ferry port.  Take time to walk the length of town to the old town and then onto the seaside path.

Eglise Notre-Dame de Croas Batz, 15th century church in old Roscoff.

Old Roscoff main street.  There are useful signs on the old buildings explaining the history in both French and English..

There is a tiny old church on the sea front which shows an ‘Exposition’ about the changes which have taken place in Roscoff over the last century.  The before and after pictures are dramatic.  Even from 1972 to present the building of the Marina and Ferry Terminal have tripled the size of the town.

3rd July – Sunday

A lazy day in sunshine for a change, followed by Chinese/Thai food at ‘La Baie D’Halong’ on the High Street, excellent and not gloopy.  Lots of messages and a card from home, thanks everyone.

Happy Birthday to me.  We did not have fish, see background.

Roscoff Marina

Roscoff is a large, new and well appointed marina and ferry terminal.  New loo’s on the pontoons and good facilities.  198 Euros for 7 nights.  Very small provisions store in town, Super U at Saint Pol and Intermarche in Morlaix are a bus ride away.  Wifi OK.

4th July – Monday – Roscoff to L’Aberwrach

Just pootling out of the marina past the ferry terminal when the lights changed and we had to stop for a ferry arrival.

We all had to circle for 20 minutes or so until she docked.  Optimising tides means we all tend to leave at the same time.

The Roscoff dorey (centre picture) held fort at the entrance and used the opportunity to make sure everyone had paid before departure.

Post birthday 07:30 start due to weather window.  A grey, cold and cloudy day, made worse by a 2m swell, wind on the nose, making a horrible, miserable morning.  The afternoon was slightly better with glimpses of sun on the way into L’Aberwrach, past the rocks and large buoys.

Note the fisherman in his waders at the other side of the buoy.  Do not cut behind the buoys!

We also past the Oyster beds on the way in.  The size of two football pitches, they are on both sides of the channel and are being worked by people in waders, harvesting the crop.  (Think of these people when you are sat in your nice warm office).  We must have been here at higher water last time as they were not visible at all.

We arrived at 13.30, 6 hours for 35 miles with the tide.  The harbour dorey gave us a nice inside berth.  We had a short walk around to get our land legs back and then had drinks on ‘Lady Cressida’ with Jonty and Wynn for my birthday, which was really kind and included a lovely card.  What great company with lots of stories and information, we will look forward to our next meeting.

Little change to L’Aberwrach marina.  28 Euros.

5th July – Tuesday – L’Aberwrach to Camaret via the Chanel du Four.

07:30 start for the 35 mile journey.  The Chanel du Four has to be treated with respect and timings and navigation are crucial.  Another overcast morning with wind on the nose.  During the first 4 hours  we experienced the worst swell we have been in.  At least 3m, we went up and down the rolling sea like socks in a washing machine.  The captain’s navigation enduring time below deck was impressive.

Le Four lighthouse.

Then the wonderful sight of the headland at the Rade de Brest.  The sea had calmed significantly after we rounded Le Four and crossing to Camaret was borderline pleasant.

We arrived in Camaret at 14:00 and walked to the Super U for a big stock up and an ice-cream.

The pontoon at Camaret, next to the most beautiful boat we have ever seen, with a super cool skipper and whisper quiet bow thrusters.  We thought it might be James Bond’s German cousin.

Camaret Marina

The underground toilets have had investment, new light bulbs, which actually make them much more acceptable.  28 Euros.  Super U located past the main shops up a street on the right.  Camaret is a haven for artists and any stop over is enhanced by them and their boutique/artisan galleries.

6th July – Wednesday – Camaret to St Evette via the Raz de Sein.

Leaving Camaret, view of the dramatic headland.

Unusually we left Camaret at 14:30 to navigate the notoriously tricky Raz de Sein.  A sunny day for this 28 mile journey.  Our best sail, yes I said SAIL of the season.

Timing is crucial, few sailing boats can beat this tidal gate.  You literally have to go with the flow, aiming to pass ‘Le Plat’ at slack water.

‘Le Plat’ the huge cardinal buoy marking the safe water channel.

Just a little disturbed water around ‘Le Plat’.  No dramas, thankfully.  Arriving at St Evette at 20:00.  The mooring buoys are large, easy to spot and plentiful.

10 Euros to be dorey, who took our bread order and delivered it with, still warm, pain au chocolat promptly the following morning.  Only in France.

View from our mooring in St Evette.  Then on to beautiful Benodet.