Late August 2017 – Ipswich and Summary

We arrived back in Ipswich on the 14th August after nearly 4 months away. 

We were allocated a space near to the lock, we were at the office end last year so it makes a change.  The posh loo’s are at this end too.  There’s a shortage of space at the moment as it the the Harbour Festival at the weekend so there are numerous visiting yachts of all shapes, sizes and ages.

We slept for a while and then walk out for Fish and Chips, it’s the law after a big trip.

On the 15th we go out for Pizza with Liz and John from Yacht Rascal.  We all have stories to tell of our summer escapades, they have been to France and the Channels Islands and bumped into a few of our sailing buddies on the way.

Wednesday the 16th and Liz kindly takes me to Lidl in their car.  It’s the first time she has driven for many months, but had no problems.  It is always strange going so fast in a car after so long walking everywhere.

I then managed to get a very bad head cold so we had a few quiet days.

The Harbour Festival started on Saturday (19th) and the marina was busy with visiting boats all displaying their bunting.  See the Viking in the foreground.

The Festival spreads all the way around the harbour on both sides and attendance was good on both days.

Some of the visiting Thames barges, the one we boarded was very plush inside with a large wood panelled function room and bar.

We had a good chat to the volunteers on James Stevens, the oldest motor powered RNLI boat still sailing.

The weather gods were kind and the Festival had two good days.  It’s great to see the harbour-side so busy.

21st August – Monday

Jim and Lyn arrived in their boat Full Circle, as part of their summer cruise.  Their boat is the same type as ours so we have lots to talk about.  We went to the Chinese Buffet with them and two of their friends in the evening.

The next day Mick and Jim went to Fox’s boatyard looking for plug sockets, while Lyn and I scoured the shops of Ipswich.  We had a lovely curry on Full Circle courtesy of Lyn and then the night after we had a Risotto on Fleur.  All very sociable after our relatively quiet social life in the Baltic Region.

24th August – Thursday

We had a walk up to Ipswich Art Gallery to see what is currently on display.  Their exhibitions are changed regularly so always worth a look.

OMG what an unexpected treat.  The exhibition is from ‘Small Films’ set up by Oliver Postgate and Peter Firmin which made The Clangers, Bagpuss, Ivor the Engine, Noggin the Nog and Pogles Wood.

Actual Sign

Soup Dragon, Granny Clanger (knitting), Major Klanger and the Froglets.  The Clangers are about a foot tall.

The Iron Chicken

The Flying Music Boat

Me and Bagpuss, with Emily’s Blue dress.  I didn’t know it was blue.  We have a Bagpuss as our ‘Ship’s Cat’.

 

Madeleine the Rag Doll, Professor Yaffle, The Mice on the Mouse Organ and Gabriel The Toad.

The Pogles.  Mr and Mrs Pogle, Pippin and Tog.  I don’t remember this but Mick does.

There was also artwork from Ivor and Engine and Noggin the Nog.  Great to see and such as unexpected pleasure.

25th August – Friday

Back to work varnishing under the floorboards.  You may think by varnishing underneath we have too much time on our hands, but it is worth doing.

Bits of grit get underneath and score the wood, and after a while it gets pitted.

No small feat, but we had the weather for it.

27th August – Sunday

A walk to the Multi-Cultural Festival in Alexander Park.

Lots of colourful food stalls and bands on stage.  A really well attended event on a beautiful day.

Over the next week we saw the film Dunkirk at the new Empire Cinema in the Buttermarket, excellent picture and sound, good film too.  Visited Christchurch Mansion in Christchurch Park and had a picnic, and went to Jack’s Cafe for a full breakfast which was hard earned with a trolley pull to Lidl.

Mick has been doing lots of jobs in the last few weeks.

Took down the front sail.

General Greasing

Serviced the Autohelm and the steering

Rigging Check

7th September - Thursday

We said good bye to Fleur for a while and left her with her big winter mooring ropes securely fastened.  We travelled home by train with one trolley, one bag of newly made bears and sandwiches, one computer bag and one ukulele.  You really would have disowned us!

Summary

Even though we have been away for a month less than previous years it has felt like such a long time.  Crossing the freezing North Sea at the end of April seems like a lifetime ago.

The cold wind did not really leave until the end of June and we only had a few balmy nights.  We had many days of high winds and although the days were often sunny the strength of the wind meant that walking ashore was not always a pleasure.

The mooring boxes in the Baltic region mean sitting on the boat in high winds is not a comfortable experience.  The boat is literally rocked from pillar to post for days at a time.  On those days we did not really want to leave to boat for too long because another boat may come and damage ours, we wanted to be there is case our boat was damaged and onshore was not much more fun.

Despite the challenging winds we did have many sunny days and have had a good summer on the whole.  We have both been challenged, with navigation to many new places and the stresses that brings.  It has been our most complicated season yet, with many firsts.  Crossing the North Sea in extreme cold.  Four different nationalities to negotiate with their languages and customs.  Very few British people to consult and console en route.

The pluses are as always, the varying destinations and sheer pleasure of visiting new places and getting to know them well as we stayed longer at each place this season. 

We really enjoyed Germany, Stralsund, Warnermunde, and Rostock.  Along with Heligenhaven, Laboe and Kiel.

This would have been the perfect year to leave the boat elsewhere and continued our journeys into the Baltic Region next year, but due to Brexit, Michael does not want to leave the boat outside the UK.  He likes his winter tinkering too.

Ports      34 of which 17 were new

Mileage over 1,500

Once again a massive thanks from us both to everyone who has read our blog and we hope to continue in late May next year.  Your comments really do help us along.

Have a great time, at every opportunity!

XXX

August 2017–Vollendam, Amsterdam and North Sea to Ipswich

7th August – Monday – Urk to Vollendam

After 6 nights in Urk we were ready for a move and not yet ready for Amsterdam so a 25 mile trip, through the Lemstad Sluis near Lelystad, and then across the Markermeer, took us to Vollendam in just over 6 hours.  Mostly sunny but once again the wind was on the nose.

Vollendam is one of the most touristy places in Holland, people take trips from Amsterdam and it is on the cruise ship and lake cruisers itinerary, which therefore makes it the best place for people watching.  The pretty sea front has a constant steam of people from all over the world.

10th August – Thursday

Fresh croissants from the marina hotel bakery.  Then walked to town to shop for our trip across the North Sea and a sneaky last chips and mayo on the sea front.

It was our 5th Wedding Anniversary so we found an Asian Fusion restaurant near the marina called ‘A-Fusion’.  It was like Asian Tapas and we tried some great new flavours.

At the end of the meal they brought marshmallows and a flowerpot shaped burner to toast them on.  Notice the concentration.  Another first and definitely not last.

Sailors Info:

Vollendam marina is a family holiday centre and hotel complex and as such has everything you need.  Excellent everything.  19 euros per night.  Free wifi.  Again we found a less touristy shopping area and Edam is a 3km walk away.

11th August – Friday – To Amsterdam

A very grey day turned sunny as we negotiated the road bridge and sluis exiting the Markermere into the North Sea Canal. 

Passing the Marken Lighthouse, which was covered in scaffolding 2 years ago, and now all spruced up.  We arrived in Sixhaven just after 1200.  A bit of jostling and the Havenmeister pulled us into an impossible mooring backwards, the man is a mooring magician.

Cruise Ship Celebrity Silouhette, dominates the city skyline.

We were only in Amsterdam for one night so we quickly changed and took the free ferry into town.  We had a desperate need for a last Pork Bun or two prior to departure.  They are a slightly sweet brioche bun stuffed with Chinese pork, slurp. Then a quick walk round to get some very fresh buns for the passage.

12th August – Saturday – To Ijmuiden (pronouned eye-mouw-der)

It was our task to negotiate with our neighbours to establish our time of departure.  You have to leave by 12, so 1130 it was.  We could sail straight out forwards, but 5 boats had to move.  Three had left earlier, one left at 11 and the last did a nifty turn to 90 degrees in order to position themselves to take our mooring spot.  Entente cordial at its best, 4 nations involved, all boats unscathed.  (21 euros per night, located next to two free ferry terminals, cheapest rooms in town).

It is only a 15 mile trip, but you do encounter some of the largest and most interesting vessels.

This is an underwater cable laying vessel, at the moment being used to lay cables from the numerous new windmills to bring the electricity to shore.  Note the cars and vans parked in the foreground to see the scale.

A crane being pulled by 2 tug boats passes.

We arrived in Ijmuiden at 1530, after passing through our last lock.  Many sailors use the marina at Ijmuiden as their departure point, where they wait for the correct tide.  Many of the other yachts were locals heading north to Texel (Dutch Friesland Island) for their jollies.

Sailors Info:

Ijmuiden Marina is huge and if you get it wrong its a VERY long walk to shore.  So we took our shower gear with us when we paid.  26 euros a night, which includes facilities and electric.  In season the marina is lively with several restaurants, cafes, ice cream parlours and a small supermarket.  A bus station makes connections to Amsterdam very easy for crew handovers.

13th August – Sunday – Overnight trip to Ipswich

Preparation:  After April’s miserable experience we wanted to give ourselves every opportunity to have a good passage.  We could have dwelled in Amsterdam for a couple of weeks, but Mick identified a weather window and we decided to make the trip.  We have been out of England longer this year than previous years, but previously it had taken weeks to get to the country of destination, this year we left home in Lancashire on a Thursday and were in Amsterdam on the Sunday, and now vice versa.

The forecast was for force 2 and 3 winds from the Northwest becoming Variable Southeast later 3 or 4, with sea swell of 0.5 to 1metres.

For the sailing purists this would be appalling.  For two people who want to get themselves and the boat home in one piece with minimal discomfort, it was perfect.

The trip out of Ijmuiden is always lively.  We had taken seasickness pills the night before and again when we awoke.  I had prepared 6 ham teacakes and 6 cheese and salami the night before.  We had made up our big sailing bag with all possible clothing combinations so that they were easily to hand and I made a flask to start the journey.  We had pot noodles, chocolate, crisps, sweets, raison buns, biscuits and small packs of drinks to hand.  (Before nightfall we made another flask, again minimising the time we had to spend downstairs if it was rough).

We set off at 08:10 and we both donned our wet weather gear.  It was a bit chilly but soon became too warm, so layers were removed.  The swell lasted for about 4 hours and then the day turned sunny.  Although, it being the North Sea, we still rolled a bit.

This years best addition to long journeys has been downloads of Desert Island Discs, Michael Caine was a highlight.  They really pass an hour quickly.

10 hours in I saw a blob on the horizon, which I just could not make out.  The nearer it got the more I thought it was an inflatable rib, slowly deflating, which we all now know, are used as migrants vessels, yes we were a bit worried on lots of levels.  It turned out to be something far stranger……. a dead whale.

It must have been there a while as it had changed colour in the sun, and was being perched upon by seabirds.  Thank goodness we saw it and thank goodness it was daylight!

It was located near the P11E temporary gas rig.

Our next sighting was much more pleasant, lovely to see this 3 masked tall ship sailing by.

We both stood lone 2 hour watches during the day so that the other person could take a nap.  Mick from 15:00 until 17:00, me from 20:00 until 22:00.  We dressed again in warm clothing and then I stood the first night watch from 23:00 to 03:00 while Mick slept and he did the 03:00 to 07:00 while I slept.  We had Radio 4 on long wave for company.

The moon came up bright orange to start with showing about half its surface as we were between Neap and Spring tides.  The night sky was almost cloudless and the moon was very bright, therefore a large portion of my watch involved sticking my head out of the cockpit trying to spot the remainder of the Meteor showers from the previous night.  I did see 2 horizontal and 4 vertical items pass across the sky, but I will need someone else to confirm if they were the real thing.  

Mick caught this sunrise during his watch.  The sea was glassy by this time.

While passing Harwich we were called on the Radio.  I always think I have done something wrong, but no, it was our friends Liz and John on Yacht Rascal, they were moored at Halfpenny pier having breakfast and had seen us on the AIS.  They were also concluding their summer season.

We arrived into the River Orwell at 08:00.

A welcome site.

And passed under the Orwell Bridge at 10:00 in the sunshine.

It is the Harbour Festival in Ipswich this weekend, so we were lucky to get a space.

Fleur has done us proud once more.  Mick had planned the navigation and maintained her to perfection.  The traffic on the crossing had been where expected, with no rogue fishing boats.  We had no tears, no sickness and no choruses of Jerusalem.  137 miles in 26 hours.

Ipswich adventures and summary to follow.

Late July 2017 – Lemmer, Urk and Vollendam – Holland

27th July – Thursday – Grou to Lemmer

Only 16 miles today, a quick 3 hour hop.  Mostly overcast but no issues.

29th July – Saturday – Wouda Steam Pumping Station

There are a handful of steam pumping stations around the Ijsselmeer, used for re-distributing the water when the levels rise too high.  These have been replaced by electric versions now.  However Wouda is the largest operational steam powered pumping station and is still used as a backup in times of severe flooding.

It is not until you get all the way up the driveway and up the stairs into the new visitor centre that you find out the admission fee 8.50 euros per person. 

The volunteers and guides are generally retired and the guided tour was conducted in Dutch, so you are given an Ipad with an audio/visual guide to help on the way around.  We tagged onto a group, as you are not allowed to wander around un-escorted.  Ourselves and a German family felt a bit embarrassed playing the audio guides in our languages as the guide spoke, but they did not provide headphones.

Each item had a number for the guide and these were two of the 4 boilers.

Mick in the engine shed.

Afterwards there was a good display in the visitor centre and a film, which had English subtitles, about how the steam pumps came to the rescue just before the Centenary celebrations.

Sailors Info:

Lemmer Binnen Haven - We stayed here on the way up, 79 euros for 4 nights.  50 cent 3 minute showers.  Good supermarkets on the way into town. Wifi extra.

1st August – Tuesday – To Urk

There are two options when leaving Lemmer.  Negotiate the town and the onlookers through 3 bridges and a lock or go through the larger lock a little way back up the canal. 

0915 start and again only 16 miles, but this time it was 4 hours as we had a wait at Princess Margaritesluis.  The size of the commercial traffic has increased.  We went in after the big guys and before the bridge, due to the mast.  The bridge only opens once the commercial traffic has exited the lock.

Mick with his rope on the high recessed cleats.  Notice the very low bumpers which line the side of the lock, therefore meaning fenders need to be in the water.  On leaving Lemmer we passed the huge windmills again, more of which later.

The view of the Lighthouse and Windmills at Urk.

2nd August – Wednesday

We decided to walk to the windmills today.

Passed the old lighthouse, which is still in use.

On the first picture of Urk the windmills look like they are next to the lighthouse, but it took us 45 minutes just to walk to the first windmill.

Sadly no picture can do them justice, they are majestic.

The statue is a memorial to the fishermen who have lost their lives and represents a loved one awaiting their return.  It is surrounded on all sides by a wall full of names.  Before the Ijsselmeer and Markermeer were created by damming and making locks Urk was an Island with a large fishing fleet.  It still feels like a fishing town today.

Old Boat Yard on the sea front.

The wind then blew for 4 days, so we pottered around and generally left the boat to be relieved from the rocking.

The Orca statue spurts its fountain at unsuspecting passers-by.

Urk is also known for being very religious and the ladies to the town dress all in black in an Amish kind of way.  The tent behind Mick was home to volunteers, spreading the word, giving out leaflets and offering free refreshments. 

Note: Urk closes on Sundays.  No cafes, restaurants, bars or shops.  One ice cream hut and the yacht club restaurant were the only exceptions we found.

Urk is also known for these little critters.  We awoke to literally hundreds all over the boat and everyone else’s boats.  They only appear on still evenings, so not much problem this year!

Breakwater Pontoon.

Sailors Info:

Urk Harbour is efficiently controlled by several harbour masters, who travel around in this.

You can go to the office to pay but a sign at the end of the pontoon says they will collect dues, as it is quite a walk.

The breakwater pontoon above is the most obvious place to moor, but we went further in and moored on Pontoon E, which had new jetties and easy access to town.  People were rafting on the breakwater when there were plenty of spaces.

17 euros per night decreased to 11.50 at weekend, possible due to the town closure.  The facilities are in porta-cabins in 3 locations on the harbour-side.  Free wifi. Boni supermarket near the marina, just aim right.  Large shopping centre with Aldi, AH and Jumbo a 20 minute walk away.

Next stop Vollendam, then back to Amsterdam.

Mid July 2017 – Norderney, Lauwersoog, Dokkum, Grou

We stayed on the island of Norderney in the German Friesland Islands until the 16th of July.  We were waiting for the right tide to take us to Lauwersoog, our re-entry point into the Dutch waterways.  We were also awaiting the weather, we had really sunny days with high winds and two very heavy rain days, so lots of time to walk around the island.

We met Gitta and Wouter of yacht ‘Brandaen’ who moored next to us and invited us for coffee.  Wouter had just retired so we had lots to talk about.  We wish them well in their adventures, their Labrador was not a natural sailor and may take a while to acquire sea legs.

Two days before our departure my vertigo (BPPV) returned and we had a few days trauma trying to rectify it (using the Epley Manoeuvre) before our departure, which could not be delayed as the weather and tides were right.  Just another type of sailing stress as the thought of sailing feeling so dizzy had no appeal.

17th July – Monday – Norderney to Dokkum via Lauwersoog.

We left Norderney just ahead of high tide at 0500.  A flotilla of 8 boats followed and then dispersed during the day.  The 13 hour trip was very rocky especially through the islands.  But we both took seasickness pills and managed pretty well. 

The tricky channel into Lauwersoog.  The buoys are nowhere near their charted locations as they are moved frequently as the channel changes.  They have to be identified and followed as you go.

Sand bank outside Lauwersoog.

After 13 hours and a very early start a visit from Dutch Customs was an interesting diversion.

We had been told earlier in the year at Cuxhaven that British boats were being stopped at Lauwersoog and so we weren’t too surprised.  Mick got his first chance in 4 years to display his comprehensive paperwork and passports proudly to the officials.  They were very courteous and the whole boarding and disembarking took no more than 15 minutes.  They helm alongside drop off one officer and then do the same to disembark.

The sluis at Lauwersoog is easily identified from a distance.

We had fully intended to stay in Lauwersoog marina for the night but it was only 1500 and there did not appear to be much going on so we opted to continue on to Dokkum, which we had really liked on the way up.  We managed to get a space before the first bridge in Dokkum and finished our day at 1800, 13 long hours (70 miles) but very satisfying for Mick’s navigation and a nice still canal to moor in for a few days.

18th July – Tuesday

Well that’s settled a week in Dokkum for 52.40 euros.  A nice calm mooring on the canal-side, with a proper pontoon.  They really have it well managed here.  The rubbish is collected from the side of your boat at 0830 and 2000 every day.  The money is collected by polite young people and the facilities are new.  (As described in Early May).  What’s not to like?

Mick did the big engine service all oils, filters etc.  Time for a spot of window shopping.

Dokkum central canal

Town Square

21st July – Friday

We walked to St Boniface Chapel which is only half a mile from the boat mooring.  It was so much nicer than we were expecting.  It is an open air church.

Which feels like Shakespear’s Globe but was only built in 1934.

There was a video in English explaining the whole story.  Boniface the famous British monk came here after great work in Britain and Germany and when he got to Dokkum to bring religion to the outer reaches of the Netherlands, they murdered him. 

We had several days to explore and spent a lot of time just sat on the boat watching the endless boat parade.  A well earned rest for us both after weeks of careful navigation and tricky sailing.

We met a man on a boat called ‘Winks’ who had just completed almost the same trip as ourselves to Copenhagen.  He had also chosen to return earlier than planned due to the high winds.  Then we read a blog from another sailor with just the same story, not just us then.

24th July – Monday - Dokkum to Grou

All good things come to an end so off we trot to Grou.  (Pronounced Hrou, as if coughing up the word Row, as in argument not rowing……..haha bet you did it).

Departing Dokkum is a parade through the bridges paying 5 euros into a clog on a fishing line at the main bridge.

You’ve got to love a country which provides ramps for ducks.

The parade continues through Birdarp.  Another 3.50 euros.

Lunch on the canal side in Leeuwarden and another 7 euros into the clog at the first bridge.  You pay to get in so they don’t miss out on payment.

Crossing the Aqueduct outside Grou (for Phil).

6 and a half hours to complete the 26 miles from Dokkum to Grou arriving just before the rain.

25th July – Tuesday

We have passed Grou twice so far and had been told it was worth a visit.

Mick outside the new marina office and facilities at Anja Marina.  The old ones burnt down.

Bit of yarn bombing for my crafty chums.

Grou is a pretty town surrounding St Piters Church. 

It has a comprehensive set of shops which are much bigger on the inside tardis-like.  The wool shop sells lingerie and the pet shop sells shoes.  Multi-tasking in a small community.

Sailors Info:

We stayed at Anja Marina for 11.60 euros per night, another bargain.  Beware the marina is not very deep and passing traffic makes waves.  Excellent new facilities.  Wifi OK.  Poiesz supermarket at the end of the High Street, Lidl and Jumbo on Stationweg near the museum. 

Next stop Lemmer