Mid July 2017 – Norderney, Lauwersoog, Dokkum, Grou

We stayed on the island of Norderney in the German Friesland Islands until the 16th of July.  We were waiting for the right tide to take us to Lauwersoog, our re-entry point into the Dutch waterways.  We were also awaiting the weather, we had really sunny days with high winds and two very heavy rain days, so lots of time to walk around the island.

We met Gitta and Wouter of yacht ‘Brandaen’ who moored next to us and invited us for coffee.  Wouter had just retired so we had lots to talk about.  We wish them well in their adventures, their Labrador was not a natural sailor and may take a while to acquire sea legs.

Two days before our departure my vertigo (BPPV) returned and we had a few days trauma trying to rectify it (using the Epley Manoeuvre) before our departure, which could not be delayed as the weather and tides were right.  Just another type of sailing stress as the thought of sailing feeling so dizzy had no appeal.

17th July – Monday – Norderney to Dokkum via Lauwersoog.

We left Norderney just ahead of high tide at 0500.  A flotilla of 8 boats followed and then dispersed during the day.  The 13 hour trip was very rocky especially through the islands.  But we both took seasickness pills and managed pretty well. 

The tricky channel into Lauwersoog.  The buoys are nowhere near their charted locations as they are moved frequently as the channel changes.  They have to be identified and followed as you go.

Sand bank outside Lauwersoog.

After 13 hours and a very early start a visit from Dutch Customs was an interesting diversion.

We had been told earlier in the year at Cuxhaven that British boats were being stopped at Lauwersoog and so we weren’t too surprised.  Mick got his first chance in 4 years to display his comprehensive paperwork and passports proudly to the officials.  They were very courteous and the whole boarding and disembarking took no more than 15 minutes.  They helm alongside drop off one officer and then do the same to disembark.

The sluis at Lauwersoog is easily identified from a distance.

We had fully intended to stay in Lauwersoog marina for the night but it was only 1500 and there did not appear to be much going on so we opted to continue on to Dokkum, which we had really liked on the way up.  We managed to get a space before the first bridge in Dokkum and finished our day at 1800, 13 long hours (70 miles) but very satisfying for Mick’s navigation and a nice still canal to moor in for a few days.

18th July – Tuesday

Well that’s settled a week in Dokkum for 52.40 euros.  A nice calm mooring on the canal-side, with a proper pontoon.  They really have it well managed here.  The rubbish is collected from the side of your boat at 0830 and 2000 every day.  The money is collected by polite young people and the facilities are new.  (As described in Early May).  What’s not to like?

Mick did the big engine service all oils, filters etc.  Time for a spot of window shopping.

Dokkum central canal

Town Square

21st July – Friday

We walked to St Boniface Chapel which is only half a mile from the boat mooring.  It was so much nicer than we were expecting.  It is an open air church.

Which feels like Shakespear’s Globe but was only built in 1934.

There was a video in English explaining the whole story.  Boniface the famous British monk came here after great work in Britain and Germany and when he got to Dokkum to bring religion to the outer reaches of the Netherlands, they murdered him. 

We had several days to explore and spent a lot of time just sat on the boat watching the endless boat parade.  A well earned rest for us both after weeks of careful navigation and tricky sailing.

We met a man on a boat called ‘Winks’ who had just completed almost the same trip as ourselves to Copenhagen.  He had also chosen to return earlier than planned due to the high winds.  Then we read a blog from another sailor with just the same story, not just us then.

24th July – Monday - Dokkum to Grou

All good things come to an end so off we trot to Grou.  (Pronounced Hrou, as if coughing up the word Row, as in argument not rowing……..haha bet you did it).

Departing Dokkum is a parade through the bridges paying 5 euros into a clog on a fishing line at the main bridge.

You’ve got to love a country which provides ramps for ducks.

The parade continues through Birdarp.  Another 3.50 euros.

Lunch on the canal side in Leeuwarden and another 7 euros into the clog at the first bridge.  You pay to get in so they don’t miss out on payment.

Crossing the Aqueduct outside Grou (for Phil).

6 and a half hours to complete the 26 miles from Dokkum to Grou arriving just before the rain.

25th July – Tuesday

We have passed Grou twice so far and had been told it was worth a visit.

Mick outside the new marina office and facilities at Anja Marina.  The old ones burnt down.

Bit of yarn bombing for my crafty chums.

Grou is a pretty town surrounding St Piters Church. 

It has a comprehensive set of shops which are much bigger on the inside tardis-like.  The wool shop sells lingerie and the pet shop sells shoes.  Multi-tasking in a small community.

Sailors Info:

We stayed at Anja Marina for 11.60 euros per night, another bargain.  Beware the marina is not very deep and passing traffic makes waves.  Excellent new facilities.  Wifi OK.  Poiesz supermarket at the end of the High Street, Lidl and Jumbo on Stationweg near the museum. 

Next stop Lemmer