Mid June 2017–Rodvig, Denmark to Malmo, Sweden via Copenhagen

5th June to 8th June – Rodvig

We knew the weather was changing and came to Rodvig, so that we were not in the much smaller village of  Klintholm for several days.  Rodvig did not prove to be much bigger but did offer some diversions.

For two days the boat was pounded by wind and rain.  We were moored in the outer harbour and therefore we were got the worst of the waves and wind induced tidal surge.  ‘Bondie the Kid’ managed to lasso another rope across the boat and around the back post to keep us well away from the boat next door.  The 11th attempt was successful, a great display of perseverance and skill.  We spent most of the time aboard as you don’t want to leave your boat in those conditions and there was nowhere to go ashore for indoor amusement.

8th June – Thursday

Someone had commented on the blog that Rodvig was a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its Geology.  So we took the coastal path to the east.  We came across a disused lime quarry with a huge pyramid structure.  An information board said that the old lime store was now used for cultural events and it looked to be open.

Wow, the wooden structure reminded us of the Royal Dockyards in Chatham.  There was no door and the open space invited us in.  That’s me in the middle.  The echo was amazing.

Back to the Geology, it is evident in the white cliffs, just like Lulworth Cove.  As we rounded the coast in the next few days we saw miles of this undulating rocky structure.

Rodvig cove, looking towards the town.

Sailors Info:

Rodvig has an outer and inner harbour, the inner harbour is for larger boats and fishing vessels.  450 Krone for 3 nights (£54).  Free showers in old but acceptable facilities.  The Brugsen supermarket is located to the right of the marina, follow the road to the white flint kiln and keep going, less than 10 minutes.  There is an ATM to the left of the marina on the harbour-side.  Cafes, restaurants and small souvenir shops which were closed on quiet days.

9th June – To Dragor, base for visiting Copenhagen.

Election results day!!!

The 26 miles took just over 5 hours.  The sea was very (pots rocking in the cupboards) roly in the morning but got better in the afternoon, and there was no wind, though it was quite sunny.  The marina looked pretty full and we did not want to go too far in as there seemed to be nowhere to turn around.  In the outer part of the marina we were waved in by two British motor boats, they said we could stay by them.  At first we thought that meant rafting until we realised that they were on Lazy Lines, which we have never used before.  They are far more common in the Mediterranean.  With their help we managed to get tied up.  They handed us the ropes which are under the boat and attach to the back cleats to stop the boat from moving sideways, whilst front ropes secure the position of the boat.  Over the next few days we helped more than a dozen boats in the same situation.

Fleur, centre.  Jupiter who helped us, on our left.  The visiting boats are good entertainment for the coach visitors.  I talked to a lovely lady from Hong Kong who was here on a cruise.

Dragor is the place people visit for a break from Copenhagen.  It is centred around the harbour and the old town in a maze of small streets lined with painted cottages, which are either tiled or thatched. 

10th June – Saturday

It just so happened that we landed in Dragor at the same time as their annual Market and Fair.

The lady at tourist information gave us this postcard to encourage us to go.  She said it was a half hour walk.

It was well over an hours walk but worth it.  It was a new and used market with a fun fair and circus tent.  There were lots of food stalls and this is were we got our first hint at the prices in Denmark.  £7.20 for a burger.  £8.40 for Noodles.  £6.00 for a pint.  Needless to say we declined but then spent a fascinating two hours marvelling at what the wages must be like if these are market prices.

We found a Netto on the way back, Hoorah.  The IRMA supermarket off the town square was Waitrose plus prices.  We had bought a few things in Rodvig but had not been seriously shopping up to this point, having stocked up in Germany.

11th June – Sunday

I cut Mick’s hair using Beckie’s patent ‘hole in a bin bag and stick your head through method’ to catch the bits.  Worked a charm.  We normally wait until we have a pontoon to ourselves and cut it outside, but its not really possible when you are a tourist attraction on a harbour-side.

We walked to the town fort and along the front where the really posh houses are.

12th June – Monday – Bus to Copenhagen

Copenhagen was our only real destination this year, anything else is a bonus, so it deserved at least one if not two Grand Days out.

We caught the 350S bus from Dragor square, at the top of the high street.  (The bus stop is across the road).  The journey only takes 35 minutes and you still get a scenic tour into town.  My highlight was passing the ‘Posh Hunde Salon’ aka dog groomers.

We have been to Copenhagen before on a Cruise stop over, so we knew the bus was dropping us off just after the main square and Parliament building.  We did not know it was so close to a beautiful park.  A lady on the bus told us to go in and see the palace.

Rosenborg Castle.  Very impressive, the crown jewels are kept here too.  Built by King Christian IV in the early 17th century.

On our way to the Little Mermaid (well you have to, don’t you?) we crossed another park, which housed a moated fort and garrison.

With sentry boxes.

The Little Mermaid.  She had recently been cleaned after being painted red by pranksters.  It is a regular occurrence as a form of protest too.

We were however not alone.  We counted 14 coaches and there were 3 cruise ships in too.

After a cloud burst, we walked to Nyhavn which is the most famous street, lined with brightly painted restaurants and cafes.  Beware the 10 Euro beers, we had last time.  No matter how rich you are £9 is still a lot for a beer.

Our next stop was the Freetown Christiania.  According to the blurb.  “Established in 1971 by a group of hippies, the area has a thriving cultural life with are galleries and music venues, and is home to 1,000 people who have chosen an alternative way of life”.  The houses are mostly self builds and its fascinating to walk around.  Various herbal substances can be purchased on the main street.  The vendors all have a distinctive red brolly to protect their wares from sun and rain.

The sign as you leave.

The entertainment arena.

Fab mural at the exit.

The 13th and 14th were very windy days and we stayed around Dragor.

15th June – Thursday – Grand Day Out number 2.

I specifically wanted to visit the Tivoli gardens as we missed them last time.  Founded in 1843 it is the second oldest amusement park in the world.  It costs 110DK (£13.20) to enter and then rides are extra.  The locals have yearly passes, and a ride ticket at approx £30 would be worthwhile if you are a thrill seeker. 

The grand entrance.

The area is packed with gardens, oases and pavilions, which usually house a restaurant, some of Denmark's best restaurants are in Tivoli.

The Galleon is a floating themed restaurant, as is the boat house.

There are thrills for all ages…..

…. and thrill levels.

The aim seems to be to get your through the doors, ride the rides, and/or eat at whatever level your prefer and stay for a show and the nightly illuminations and fireworks.  Walt Disney visited here.  It would be good to return in the winter when the nights are dark, eat and take in a show.  Friday nights are extra special and have international guest stars.  Eating and shows are also extra.  Danish people like to picnic and there is plenty of room to eat outdoors too.

The 1905 City Hall is near to Tivoli and on our route back to the bus.  It is free to enter and holds art exhibitions in the vast hall.

Main Hall, you can explore all the floors and the staircases have beautiful frescoes.

At the entrance is a special room which houses Jens Olsen’s world clock.  “A watchmaker’s masterpiece”. 

The back is even more beautiful.

There are plenty of shops and many places of interest.  Most admissions are 110DK (£13.20) however a Copenhagen Ticket is available at varying rates for 24, 48 and 72 hours, which gives access to all major attractions including Tivoli and bus and rail travel.  If we had sailed into town this would have been a must.

Sailors Info:

We were glad we stayed in Dragor.  The street marinas were a tight squeeze from what we saw.  The cost was 450DK for 3 nights (£18.00) 10 DK deposit for the shower card.  Showers were free and recently updated.  Good Wi-Fi.  Irma supermarket at the end of the high street.  Netto and Fotex supermarkets 20 minutes walk across the main crossroad out of town, which are definitely worth the walk. 

Ice cream prices highlight the cost difference in Denmark.  One scoop Ice Cream.  Germany 1 Euro, Denmark 25DK 3.30 Euros £3.00.  Basics like eggs, bread and milk can be found for maybe 10% more than Germany.  Cereal, biscuits and meat are more expensive.

16th June – Friday – To Malmo, Sweden

It is only 9.6 miles to Malmo from Dragor across the Drogden and Flintrannan Channels and under the Oresund Bridge.  Made famous by the TV series ‘The Bridge’.  (Really wish we had watched it).  It was a quick 2 hour trip, but beware, the water gets very choppy around the bridge and helming is a challenge.

We raise the Swedish courtesy flag after we pass under the bridge.

Picture shows the navigation signs on the bridge to show where to pass under.  A German boat decided to sail through just when it got interesting and very rocky!

The bridge is a motorway and there is a railway track underneath.  The Danish end goes into a tunnel so that large shipping can pass over.

The marina is large and the walk to the harbourmaster and facilities is long.  A cloud burst made my shower a waste of effort, as I returned more wet than when I left the shower block.

17th June – Saturday - Malmo

We had been told that Malmo closes on Sunday so made the effort to get into town.  My app said it was a 1 hour and 48 minute walk.  It took about 1 hour 20 until we started to see interesting things.

The Turning Torso tower, the tallest building in Scandinavia is a prominent feature on the skyline and very useful to sailors.

Malmo is a mix of the very old and the very new.  Canals lined by modern architecture.

Lilla Torg, billed as the prettiest square in town and rightly so.

The apothecary shop is located at the end of a beautiful arcade which joins two of the town squares.  There is a good selection of shops and a large indoor shopping centre called Triangelen.

We walked our legs off.

Walked back through the park and then walked an hour and a half back to the marina.  There are several parks and old palaces.  We knew we were not going to stay long so did not change any money.  With hindsight I would have used the credit card on the bus.

We left the following day. 

Happy chappie near Oresund Bridge.

Sailors Info:

Malmo Limhamns Marina.  440Kr for 2 nights £19.80 per night.  Machine payment issues Wi-Fi password and facilities Pin Code.  Shower cubicles with communal changing.  All currently being updated to a good standard.  We landed on pontoon B, it would be worth seeking out pontoon F for visitors which on exploration is easy to access, and has turning space if necessary.  Poor Wi-Fi, but we were a long way out.  The lady in the small marina café could not have been more helpful and gave us maps and information booklets.  This is a 4 star marina.  Not sure I want to see a one star.  Chandlers on site. We did not find a supermarket nearby but there is a café and a very nice restaurant on the other side of the marina.

We decided to cross to Sweden as we were so tantalisingly close and we had a courtesy flag.  We are glad we visited and will surely return on another adventure.  We feel a long way from home right now, so are heading back to Denmark and N.E. Germany.