Late June 2017 – North Germany, Stralsund, Warnemunde and Rostock

18th June – Sunday - Malmo, Sweden to Klintholm, Denmark.

A 49 mile hop took us back to Klintholm for one night on our way to North Germany.  It was a 10 hour hop starting at 0800, but we had 12-18 knots of winds and sailed most of the way.  It was a really sunny day, but the sea got very wallowy on the way into Klintholm for the last few miles.  See Early June for Klintholm info.

19th June – Monday – Klintholm, Denmark to Stralsund, Germany.

We set off at 0900 to make the 48 mile journey to Stralsund arriving at 1715.  A really lovely sunny day, but gusty at times.  By 1400 we rounded into Strelasund which is a lagoon in the best traditions of the word.  We were lucky to enter in bright sunshine and as such the water was vivid and readily displayed the shallows.  There is a very well buoyed channel which winds around the edge of the lagoon.  The masses of birdlife, relax and paddle on the lagoon as we diligently follow the channel. 

The shallow water is much lighter in colour and dotted with wildlife.

 

The treat does not end there, as the city of Straslund emerges.  It takes 2 and a half to 3 hours to finally reach the harbour, and the city draws ever closer revealing itself, like a little Venice.  Stralsund is attached to the island of Rugen by a large bridge.

The evening was balmy and we sat out until late in the evening.

20th and 21st June – Tuesday and Wednesday

We walked the town.  It is one of the original Hanseatic trading towns which line the shores of the southern Baltic.

Main Square with St Nikolaikirsche.

Main Square

The City Hall

The town has obviously undergone a great deal of refurbishment in the last 20 years since the wall came down.  The traditional red brick buildings are all gradually being restored.

Michael at the floating Backfisch Stall in the harbour, awaiting his Backfisch and Chips (breaded fried white fish).

Stralsund is a town of contrasts.  From the old cloisters and squares.

To the ultra modern ‘Ozeaneum’.  We were really taken with Stralsund and could have stayed longer.

Sailors Info:

In the City marina it was not easy to find a space.  The red and green symbols are there but you have to be almost in the mooring to see them.  There are however pontoons, real pontoons. 19 euros per night.  10 euros for the card and 10 euro loaded onto it (refundable).  The showers which are on the pontoon and at the office, were OK, but i had a cold one and paid 1 euro for the privilege.  There is an Edeka supermarket on the main shopping street and an ALDI a 20 minute walk along the man made beach front and park (then inland a little).  Good wifi. 

** This year we have been using the free ‘Here’ app to navigate around onshore.  It you type in ‘supermarket’ or better still the name of a supermarket it will appear with directions and approx time to walk.  ATMs, petrol stations etc are also available.  Very handy.

22nd June – Thursday – To Warnemunde, Germany.

A very early 0430 get up to set off at 0500 to make the 56 mile trip.  We had to renegotiate the lagoon, which looked so different without the sunshine.  It would be very easy to stray out of the channel and into the shallows when the water is all the same colour.

Sunrise.

From 1200 to 1400 a real squall blew up and from a calm 10 knots the wind increased to 32 knots very quickly.  The sea became very disturbed and threw us around for 2 hours.  We were really worried as it was not forecast and we were dreading our arrival into Warnemunde.  As the wind was directly in front of us the boat speed went from 5.8 to 3.5 knots, with waves crashing over the bow. However, the squall left as quickly as it came and we arrived at 1630 in bright sunshine and little wind.  The Warnemunde harbourmaster said it had passed them by earlier and he was equally surprised.

The entrance into Warnemunde.  It would be useful if the piles which prevent you hitting the rocks had their Red and Green tips re-painted.

23rd June – Friday

After the very long day on Thursday we just had a walk around the marina hotel and surrounding area.  It was very windy and rainy.

The 5 star Hohe Dune Hotel and Yachthaven, front.

Back, facing the marina.

24th June – Saturday

Despite the drizzle we needed a walk and ventured across the river on the ferry. 1.40 Euro per person each way.

The ferry docks at the cruise ship terminal.  Warnemunde is the base for AIDA Cruises.

Pretty harbour front.  When the market was on there were 20 fish stalls all selling the same thing.

The other side of the harbour lined with shops and restaurants.

The town light house and ‘Teepot’ restaurant.

There is a lovely promenade and a good range of shops and restaurants, which are very popular at weekends when the markets are on by the harbour and in the town square.  It is a really pleasant place to spend a few hours.

25th June – Sunday – Grand Prix and Glastonbury.

26th June – Monday – To Rostock on the Train.

Suffice it to say the trains are new and modern and all go to Rostock.  Only 2.10 Euros per person, each way (tickets also available to Warnemunde Tourist Info).  We met a lovely lady on the train who was a great help advising us to make sure we stamped our tickets prior to boarding to Rostock Haupt-Bahnhof station, and advising on the trams into town from the station, which were also included in the ticket price.  She came with us and even told us when to get off at the town square outside the ‘Rathaus’ (Town Hall) and to take trams 5 or 6 on the way back.   

We followed further instruction to visit the Marienkirche, the largest church built in 1230.

With its Astronomical clock dating to 1472.

Again the town was a contrast of old and new.

We think all the ugly buildings have been blurted with rainbow coloured plaster to brighten the place up.  It works.

There is a good shopping area and we managed to squeeze in a Currywurst and Ice Cream.  We had a really good day out.  It is definitely worth the train trip, as its only 15km from Warnemunde.

Sailors Info:

Yachthafen Hohe Dune is billed as a 5 star hotel and marina complex.  The showers are in a block away from the main hotel.  It is 1 euro for a shower.  23 euros per night.  The pontoons are very long, try to get a bit nearer to the shore.  The wifi is good.  There is no supermarket on the yachthafen side of the river but there is an Edeka on the town square and ALDI and REWE a 20 minute walk.  It is lovely for a change for the weary sailor to walk through a 5 star hotel which smells of money.  The sailors were easily distinguishable from the guests and spa residents.

27th June – Tuesday – To Heiligenhafen

0730 start for the 44 miles arriving at 1530.  An overcast and rough morning turned into a calm and sunny afternoon.  Mostly motor sailed.

28th June – Wednesday

Another ridiculously windy day.  We check the wind instruments which measured 36 knots of wind and it was gusting more.  We went to the supermarket to get off the rocky boat for a while and battled the wind with the trolley, whose aerodynamics make her a perfect anchor when full, but takes off when empty.

We really like Heiligenhafen but the constant high wind was very trying.

Fleur being sloshed around.

We moved onto the city of Kiel on the 29th, more of which later.

We have really enjoyed Northern Germany and look forward to re-visiting.