Late July 2018 – Zierikzee and the Grevelingenmeer

23rd July – Monday – Goes to Zierikzee

We left Goes on the opening of the 09:00 bridge.  A short channel takes us into the Oosterschelde.  It is a flat calm day as we approach the 52 pillar Zeeland bridge.

Distance is really deceptive on this huge expanse of water and the bridge so large that we missed a bridge opening as we misjudged the distance involved.  The bridge opens at the north end on the half hour, so not too long to wait.

A flotilla bustled through as we waited for the green light.

We arrived at 13:15 after an 11 mile trip, into a long channel with an open lock, which only closes during extreme tidal variation events.  Eventually mooring on the left in a box mooring (more of which later).

Zierikzee pretty harbour where we were met by a harbourmaster in a boat and another on a bike to direct us to the mooring.

24th July – Tuesday

Zierikzee is billed as one of the highlights of Zeeland and so it is.

Old inner harbour.

North Tower Zuidhavenpoort

Beautiful grand houses surrounding the old harbour.

Dikke Toren, which was attached to the Sint Lievensmonstertoren Monastery.  The guide told us the extensive Monastery was accidentally burned down by a workman, who was executed for his error the next day!  Harsh times.

Inside the tower.  It is possible to climb the tower if you have the urge.

The ducks in the town moat live in some style.

Hope the local MP did not put these on expenses.

Suffice to stay we really liked Zierikzee and though we only stayed for three days we will be back.  There are lots of shops, restaurants and beautiful buildings to keep a visitor occupied.

Sailors Info

As previously mentioned the tidal variation here is 3 metres so extra measures need to be taken.

We made a comic attempt into these huge box moorings, aided by a couple on shore who had been equally naïve half an hour earlier.

The water was half way up this post when we arrived.  So all was not revealed.  The people on the shore said you must pull up the black rope?? which was not visible on entry, until you pass the post, too late…. Hmmm.  Reverse back to posts and are hindered by the current in the channel….Hmmm.  Front of boat now lurching towards the neighbour…. Hmmm.  Finally understood to grab the rope, which then by magic revealed a ring.

The rope.

The ring.

A rope had to be threaded through a ring on each pillar so that it would rise and fall with the tide and take the ropes with it.  Hmmmm…. excellent idea, once you know. 

Then I jumped onto the boat next door and handed my front rope to the lovely, patient couple on the shore.  Over the next 3 days we helped several others….. Hmmm.  Not mentioned in the pilot books….Hmmm.

Zeirikzee Marina goes all along the side of the channel after the lock.  The harbourmaster is generally in a boat.  We asked for 3 days so were assigned a box mooring (lucky us!!).  There are some pontoons and rafting for day visitors.  Another harbourmaster on a bike then directed us to the mooring, but did not mention the rings!!!  No one we spoke to had seem this exact method before.  Grrrr

26 Euros per night, facilities on the pontoon and at the shore are good.  Wifi was poor.  Lovely shops in town and an Albert Hein on Molenstratt near the centre.  A small market and a tourist market on Tuesday.

26th July – Thursday – Zierikzee to Bruinisse in the Grevelingenmeer.

Only 13 miles to Bruinisse.  Back under the big bridge and on to the Grevelingenmeer lock.  The busiest in Europe!

We had heard on the news that the bridges in Amsterdam had been closed to the night cruise as the heat was effecting them.  The Water Bowsers were in operation when we got to the lock to cool the mechanisms.

The lock was indeed very busy.  Met some nice people from Dover during our wait.  Then we are all released and charge to the marina, next left.  Arriving at 12:15 after 13 miles.

The mercury hit 43 degrees C in the sunshine and 34 inside the boat.  We could not resist testing the temperature.  We use this little device mostly to remind us what day it is!!

27th July – Friday

Very hot.  We sheltered inside until the clouds and forecasted storm arrived.

28th July – Saturday

Heavy rain overnight brought cloudier skies.

We walked the dijk and into town.  The town is quite modern, but small, a few shops and a very nice cafe in the centre.  We stayed for 5 nights as the wind blew up on Monday.

Bruinisse Marina

Sailors Info.

Bruinisse Marina is attached to a holiday resort and therefore has a small supermarket, good facilities and great facilities for children.  A large on site chandlery. Good wifi. 29 euros per night.  The harbourmasters stand at the end of the pontoon after a lock release ready to direct the flock to their moorings, very well organised chaos.

The town itself is small and a good 20 minute walk from the marina, under the underpass.  Turn left on Oudestratt for Albert Hein located just past the main square (which is oval) on Nieuwstratt. 

31st July – Tuesday – Bruinisse to Brouwershaven

We were ready for a move and so took a chance with the 20 knots of wind forecast.  We left at 10:10 for the quick 8 mile and 2 hour trip.  The wind was very flooky and was gusting to 28 knots.  We had some comedy waves over the bows, which we took turns in catching.  We quickly dried off in the heat.

Wild horses on an island.

Through the lock the harbourmaster asks questions about length and width of the boat over a two way tannoy, which is currently broken, so we could hear him but he could not hear us.  We moored up on a hammerhead and walked back to ask for directions to our mooring.  Moored perfectly, no one watching, typical.

The marina extends around a corner and into town.

This is the town, all of it!  Pretty much.  There is also a very large and empty church.

Brouwershaven Old Town Hall.

See George Clooney in the top window.

View from the back of the boat.

1st August – Wednesday

Walked to the big church.  In the evening we walked to Den Osse along the dijk.  It is a small holiday town with large camping and holiday bungalow resorts.

Sailors Info

Brouwershaven Marina 22 Euros per night.  Good facilities.  Poor wifi.  Spar supermarket in the town square, excellent baked goods.  Best Oozy sausage rolls yet.

2nd August – Thursday – Brouwershaven to Scharendijke

Only 3.2 miles and less than an hour to the end of the Grevelingenmeer.  The promise of a Plus Supermarket clinched it.

Mick expertly moored between two other boats on the waiting pontoon, then we were directed to our overnight berth.

We walked to the supermarket and stocked up a little.  Another hot day and another evening walk later when it was cooler.

A guy on a small motor boat asked us to put his champagne in our fridge, went out for dinner and then collected it later, glad to be of service.

Sailors Info

Scharendijke marina is a good size and has OK facilities.  27 euros per night, 50 cents for a shower.  The marina issues a map to the Plus supermarket as it seems to be the only reason people visit.  There are a few restaurants at the bottom of the very large, oppressive dijk. 

3rd August – Friday – Scharendijke to Herkingen

We decided not to go the Port Zeeland, which is also a Centre Parcs site, as it is peak season.  Maybe next time.

13 miles in 3 and a quarter hours.  Not a breath of wind, but beautifully still and very hot.

Passing by the islands where you can moor up for the night.  A 7 night ticket can be purchased for approx 12 euros.  There are pontoons and bins on some of the sites.  Others find it better to anchor.

The Grevelingenmeer has many attractions. If you like anchoring, swimming in the lake, canoeing etc this would be your idea of heaven.  But especially in this heat, I need to be able to walk around and find some shade.  The families here seem to be loving it.

A nice bit of shade under a tree which had been trained into a perfect umbrella.

Herkingen Centre, was the fish market and historic site.

Herkingen particularly and the other towns we have visited were badly affected by the flood of 1953.  These all used to be coastal fishing towns.

Again Herkingen is a small town with a marina, beach and holiday bungalow village.

Sailors Info

Herkingen Marina has a very friendly harbourmaster, who informed us we could have a 25% discount after visiting other lake marinas.  17 euros per night.  A supermarket is located through the flood gates at the harbour entrance, turn immediate right.  Pass the excellent chandlers and turn left for the supermarket, under the holiday flats.  Good facilities, good wifi.

Next stop Hellevoetsluis, a larger town.