Mid July 2 2016 – Crouesty and Port Louis

18th July – Monday – To Crouesty from Vannes

We left our lovely riverside mooring in Vannes for a short hop to Crouesty, which is located to the south of the mouth of the Morbihan Sea.  We departed our mooring to make the 08:30 bridge out of town and into the Morbihan.  We had a pleasant hour and a half trip around the islands to the mouth of the sea, where the tide grabs and propels you at 11 knots out into the Quiberon bay. We arrived at 11:00 after just 12 miles and went straight to the Diesel pontoon.

Crouesty is a huge marina and space is limited for visitors. 

The wind was gusting to 20 knots as we found our visitor mooring and unfortunately the wind caught us as we were manoeuvring.  Our activities attracted all the Meerkats out of their boats who offered help which was gladly received.  As I was fending off another boat, leaning on the boat hook, the boat moved and I very nearly went overboard.  I was saved by the Guard Wire, which held me at thigh level as I clung on until I regained my footing, then I had to carry on until we successfully moored.  Someone would have definitely earned £250 for the video clip.

Above is the worst of my bruises.  I was pretty shaken up.  A little later I had a good walk round the market to calm myself.

The market stretched all the way around the large marina, along the route of the many tourist shops and cafes which line the harbour-side.

We later walked to the small town of Arzon and the large Intermarche at the other side of the marina.  I think the walking really helped me not to be too stiff the following day.

19th July – Tuesday

Another ‘scorchio’ day, so we got up early and raided the Intermarche supermarket before the sun came up fully.  We then sheltered for the rest of the day until 4:00pm when we went for a walk.

On arrival the marina at Crouesty gave us a leaflet for free entry for two people to the ‘Cairn du Petit Mont’.  No, we did not know what it was either, but you know us, so off we went.

The seaside path winds its way around the headland.  At times it is very overgrown and feels like you are walking through a maze.

Occasional signs indicated that we were heading in the right direction.  ‘Tumulus’ is the word you see on Brown signs for ancient Megaliths.  It is an approximate 2km walk from the marina, just 30 minutes or so.

We were greeted by Julian who gave us a talk in English and pointed us in the right direction around the site.  It was first created 4,700 years BC, so almost 7,000 years old and therefore older than the Egyptian Pyramids.  The Gulfe de Morbihan was just rivers at this time and the site would have been on a prominent headland. 

The Germans used the cairn as a bunker during WWII, and weirdly probably saved it.  They did damage one of the tombs but the other 2 are still intact.

Feel like Wilma Flintstone.  The cairn forms a kind of Pyramid over the tombs.  The walls were below ground level when it was discovered.

Mind your head.

One of the carvings on the tomb walls.  The cairn was a very unexpected but fascinating find for us and we are very grateful to the marina for the ticket.

Crouesty Marina

35 euros per night makes Crouesty the most expensive so far in France.  With over 1400 berths it is a large and impersonal place.  There are a limited number of visitors berths, which have narrow gaps between the pontoons.  It is surrounded by holiday flats and villas and lined by tourist shops and cafes.  The office is new and efficient.  The facilities are good and are located on the harbour-side and not in the office complex.  There is a boulangerie and an Intermarche supermarket.  The dorey boat will take you across the marina to the supermarket and return you with your purchases as part of the service.  It is a 20 minute walk.  Wifi was OK.  It is well set up for families.

20th July – Wednesday – Back to Port Louis

We are going back to Port Louis to meet Malcolm and Joanna our friends from Whitby, so Crouesty will be our furthest point south this season.

We make the 31 miles from Crouesty in 7 hours 09:30 – 16:30.  With rolly seas we set off under leaden skies, but the sun appeared later.

After dinner Malcom and Joanna came around for drinks and a good catch-up.  It is so nice to see people from home.

21st July – Thursday

After a lazy day with a walk around Port Louis bumping into familiar faces, we had drinks on ‘Lady Hamilton’ with Malcolm and Joanna then went out for dinner at Il Pirata, the much recommended Pizzeria in town. 

We had charcuterie to share and thin crispy pizzas.

It is good to talk to fellow sailors about the trials and tribulations of life on board in close quarters.   We appreciate how lucky we are.

22nd July – Friday

Joanna casting off on Lady Hamilton the following morning.  Bon Voyage and thanks for your company.  Their blog ladyhamilton2016.wordpress.com is a great read.

In the afternoon we had a walk around to the other side of Port Louis and came to Port Locmalo.

A small sea named ‘Petit Mer de Gavres’, and a lovely quiet bay away from the madding crowds.

The harbour-side cafe at Port Louis has music on a Friday night and the boaters all listen from their boats in the marina.

Next stop Concarneau.

Mid July 2016 – Benodet, Port Louis and Vannes/Morbihan Sea

7th July – Thursday – To Benodet.

We had a sunny day with no wind and a smooth sea for the 32 miles trip to Benodet.  Started at 09:30 and arrived at 15:30.  Our first calm day for many a week.

Benodet is a small seaside town, with a really nice feel to it.  Not many shops, and a little touristy stuff on the seaside.  It has an elegance about it.  The marina is on the river and the tide flows rapidly, pinning the boat to the pontoon.  We were on the outside of the visitors pontoon, and only small motor boats gave us any wake to speak of.

We met Paul and Maria on Samoda and had a few drinks and a chinwag, a pleasant evening.

8th July – Friday

We walked into Benodet town, which is a 10 minute walk along the newly refurbished towpath, which is a great improvement on the last path.

9th July – Saturday – To Quimper on the bus.

Quimper is located at the end of the River Odet, further up than Benodet,   The bus fare was only 6 euros return for two people.  To sail here would have meant anchoring down river and using the dinghy into town.

We had no preconceptions of Quimper and were delighted to find a walled city, with a large cathedral and beautiful old buildings and winding streets and alleyways.

A particularly good example of a half timbered Macaronerie.  I know, a whole shop full of Macaroons!

We treated ourselves to lunch of Gallettes (filled savoury pancakes), as the bus wait was quite long and it would be rude not to.  Quimper is a good day out and there was a huge meandering market.

We returned to Benodet and then did a big shop at the Carrefour, as we know the next place is not great on supermarkets.

10th July – Sunday

While Mick watched the Grand Prix I went to find the Brocante (Antiques Market/Boot Sale).

I walked along the sea front and ended up asking someone directions.

It was in the centre of the town in the main car park.  A real mix of professionals and car-booters.

I got back just in time to watch, and not watch, with the tension, Andy Murray winning Wimbeldon, yeah!

Benodet Marina

With a pleasant aspect by the side of the river, this is a good stop to recharge after the harder sailing days.  At 29 euros per night, it has Ok facilities which currently do not need tokens for the jetons, hurray.  There is a boulangerie at the end of the new path.  The supermarket is a good and pretty 20 minute river side walk in the other direction.  Emerge onto the road and look right to the large roundabout for a Carrefour.  The wifi was poor, but free.

11th July – To Port Louis, Near Lorient in Southern Brittany

A 07:30 start for the 32 miles to Port Louis arriving at 14:00.  7 and a half hours of rolling sea, which was hard to steer through but not nauseating.  We have both had a cold for the last couple of weeks and just rested for the remainder of the day.

12th July – Tuesday

We gave Fleur a good clean after the rain subsided and the sun and wind arrived.

Port Louis holds a night market on Tuesdays, which bustles with people and music.

13th July – Wednesday

Managed to do some washing.  The overcast days of the past few weeks have made it difficult to fit in between sailing trips.

There were fireworks tonight for the eve of Bastille Day.

Port Louis Marina

The marina has vastly improved since the porta-cabins of our last visit.  Very swish facilities.  30 euros per night, wifi OK.  A very small supermarket sells the essentials and the boulangerie just across from the marina is excellent.  Night market, Tuesdays during the season.

14th July – Thursday – To Vannes in the Morbihan Sea

Vannes is located in the north-east corner of the Morbihan inland sea, which is 10 miles wide and 5 miles across.  We had an 8 hour trip from 08:00 to 16:00 for the 42 miles.  For 6 hours we had a strong under-current in the sea, which caused the boat to roll from side to side continuously.  We had planned to go to Crouesty at the mouth of the Morbihan, but on arrival Mick calculated that the timing was correct to enter the Morbihan on the last of the flood tide, so that we would arrive at Vannes in time for the 4 o’clock bridge, near local high water.  The current within the Morbihan was strong even at neap (low) tides and we found ourselves travelling at 8.2 knots over the ground with a boat speed of 4.5 knots. 

For anyone who has sailed in Windermere, it feels familiar.

Beautiful lake side scenery, punctuated by small islands.

And the first opportunity to use the zippable window in the spray hood.  Enables air to pass through on hot days.

The pilotage book for Vannes says to keep close to the pink house, no missing that instruction.

We arrived at the swing bridge outside Vannes at 15:45, and waited on the mid river pontoon until it opened at 16:30.

The marina dorey took our details at the bridge and gave us a birth number.  We were 219 of 225 so away from the town noise but only a 5 minute walk. 

A Bastille Day parade was just ending as we walked into town.

These colourful characters continued through town.

I watched the Bastille Day fireworks from bed through the porthole as they started at 23:50.  At the same time as the tragedy in Nice.

15th July – Friday

We had a good walk around Vannes.  It is yet another beautiful medieval walled city.  The pictures speak for themselves.

The east gate and colourful cafe.

Animal carvings on a shop.

Part of the town ramparts and formal garden.

The old town wash-house, I would not be keen to use that water!

Saturday Street Market.

And busy market hall.

One of the many picturesque streets within the city ramparts.

17th July – Sunday – To Auray by bus.

As we are moving on tomorrow we decided to go the Auray on the bus.  It is located in the north-west area of the Morbihan Sea and is renowned for its pretty harbour.

Top Tip : The number 19 bus takes you from the Liberation bus station which is a 20 minute walk up into town.  Only 2 euros per person each way.  We got off at the Gare (station) and walked 30 minutes in total to get to the harbour.  The ‘La Ballon de JFK’ stop is only 15 minutes from the harbour and was used on our return journey.

The top of the town is nice and leads via a ‘Hovis’ style hill to the pretty harbour.

Where I found my ultimate French street.

The 17th century bridge frames every tourist view of this beautiful harbour.

We investigated the sailing route and were glad we came by bus.

We have been constantly delighted by the half timber towns of Brittany and hope our pictures do them justice.

Vannes Marina

Do not be put off my the tales of over-crowding as we had to problem getting a space for Bastille weekend.  30 euros per night with good free wifi.  Large shower cubicles and good overall facilities in the Capitinaire building, across the floating bridge from the Tourist information centre.  Casino Supermarket, small but useful on the main street.  Market on Sat and Wed, indoor market every day.  There is no diesel available here. 

Next stop Crouesty at the mouth of the Morbihan.

Early July 2016–Roscoff, L’Aberwrach, Camaret, St Evette

27th June – Monday – Perros Guirec to Roscoff

The weather gods have been playing with us in the last week or so.  We set off from Perros Guirec to Roscoff at 11:00, the skies were overcast and the wind had a chill.  The 26 miles took 6 hours as there was a heavy swell, which meant I steered for 4 hours.  Late afternoon turned out sunny and it was just starting to settle down and be peaceful, when we were buzzed by a Mirage Jet.  Mick was at the navigation table and shot out like a rabbit.  I had pulled the brim of my hat down around my ears as the most astonishing sound hit us.  We have been to displays of Eurofighters and Tornados at Windermere, but nothing sounded like that.  By the time we looked after it, it was gone.  They must be allowed to fly lower over the sea!

The next two days were very rainy and we got drenched on a short walk to town.  To the extent that Mick decided his pants would not now need washing.

30th June – Thursday – Bus to Morlaix

As there is no supermarket in Roscoff, we took the bus to Morlaix.  The bus goes through Saint Pol and there is also a large Super U supermarket there.

Morlaix is most famous for its viaduct, which dominates the town.  It is possible to sail into Morlaix and moor at the town quay.

This would be quite a sight to wake up to.

There are many half timbered buildings in the town, which gives it distinction.

They are scattered around the town and are a delight to stumble upon.  Interestingly a few of them were for sale, possibly as they would be such a responsibility.

There is a decent shopping centre and walking along the river brings you to old manufacturing buildings which were used for Tobacco manufacture, hence Morlaix’s trading history.

La Terrasse cafe near the viaduct typifies the classy nature of the town with its small streets and alleyways, there to be discovered.

We took advantage of the ‘Intermarche’ supermarket and purchased a new hairdryer.  So my quest for the best plug socket in France continues.  We then returned on the 40 minute bus ride, a bargain at only 2 euro each way per person.

1st July – Friday

Walked into Roscoff again, it is only a 20 minute walk from the marina.  Follow the ‘Vieux Port’ signs.  Again Roscoff is a place people rush through from the ferry port.  Take time to walk the length of town to the old town and then onto the seaside path.

Eglise Notre-Dame de Croas Batz, 15th century church in old Roscoff.

Old Roscoff main street.  There are useful signs on the old buildings explaining the history in both French and English..

There is a tiny old church on the sea front which shows an ‘Exposition’ about the changes which have taken place in Roscoff over the last century.  The before and after pictures are dramatic.  Even from 1972 to present the building of the Marina and Ferry Terminal have tripled the size of the town.

3rd July – Sunday

A lazy day in sunshine for a change, followed by Chinese/Thai food at ‘La Baie D’Halong’ on the High Street, excellent and not gloopy.  Lots of messages and a card from home, thanks everyone.

Happy Birthday to me.  We did not have fish, see background.

Roscoff Marina

Roscoff is a large, new and well appointed marina and ferry terminal.  New loo’s on the pontoons and good facilities.  198 Euros for 7 nights.  Very small provisions store in town, Super U at Saint Pol and Intermarche in Morlaix are a bus ride away.  Wifi OK.

4th July – Monday – Roscoff to L’Aberwrach

Just pootling out of the marina past the ferry terminal when the lights changed and we had to stop for a ferry arrival.

We all had to circle for 20 minutes or so until she docked.  Optimising tides means we all tend to leave at the same time.

The Roscoff dorey (centre picture) held fort at the entrance and used the opportunity to make sure everyone had paid before departure.

Post birthday 07:30 start due to weather window.  A grey, cold and cloudy day, made worse by a 2m swell, wind on the nose, making a horrible, miserable morning.  The afternoon was slightly better with glimpses of sun on the way into L’Aberwrach, past the rocks and large buoys.

Note the fisherman in his waders at the other side of the buoy.  Do not cut behind the buoys!

We also past the Oyster beds on the way in.  The size of two football pitches, they are on both sides of the channel and are being worked by people in waders, harvesting the crop.  (Think of these people when you are sat in your nice warm office).  We must have been here at higher water last time as they were not visible at all.

We arrived at 13.30, 6 hours for 35 miles with the tide.  The harbour dorey gave us a nice inside berth.  We had a short walk around to get our land legs back and then had drinks on ‘Lady Cressida’ with Jonty and Wynn for my birthday, which was really kind and included a lovely card.  What great company with lots of stories and information, we will look forward to our next meeting.

Little change to L’Aberwrach marina.  28 Euros.

5th July – Tuesday – L’Aberwrach to Camaret via the Chanel du Four.

07:30 start for the 35 mile journey.  The Chanel du Four has to be treated with respect and timings and navigation are crucial.  Another overcast morning with wind on the nose.  During the first 4 hours  we experienced the worst swell we have been in.  At least 3m, we went up and down the rolling sea like socks in a washing machine.  The captain’s navigation enduring time below deck was impressive.

Le Four lighthouse.

Then the wonderful sight of the headland at the Rade de Brest.  The sea had calmed significantly after we rounded Le Four and crossing to Camaret was borderline pleasant.

We arrived in Camaret at 14:00 and walked to the Super U for a big stock up and an ice-cream.

The pontoon at Camaret, next to the most beautiful boat we have ever seen, with a super cool skipper and whisper quiet bow thrusters.  We thought it might be James Bond’s German cousin.

Camaret Marina

The underground toilets have had investment, new light bulbs, which actually make them much more acceptable.  28 Euros.  Super U located past the main shops up a street on the right.  Camaret is a haven for artists and any stop over is enhanced by them and their boutique/artisan galleries.

6th July – Wednesday – Camaret to St Evette via the Raz de Sein.

Leaving Camaret, view of the dramatic headland.

Unusually we left Camaret at 14:30 to navigate the notoriously tricky Raz de Sein.  A sunny day for this 28 mile journey.  Our best sail, yes I said SAIL of the season.

Timing is crucial, few sailing boats can beat this tidal gate.  You literally have to go with the flow, aiming to pass ‘Le Plat’ at slack water.

‘Le Plat’ the huge cardinal buoy marking the safe water channel.

Just a little disturbed water around ‘Le Plat’.  No dramas, thankfully.  Arriving at St Evette at 20:00.  The mooring buoys are large, easy to spot and plentiful.

10 Euros to be dorey, who took our bread order and delivered it with, still warm, pain au chocolat promptly the following morning.  Only in France.

View from our mooring in St Evette.  Then on to beautiful Benodet.