Mid July 2017 – Norderney, Lauwersoog, Dokkum, Grou

We stayed on the island of Norderney in the German Friesland Islands until the 16th of July.  We were waiting for the right tide to take us to Lauwersoog, our re-entry point into the Dutch waterways.  We were also awaiting the weather, we had really sunny days with high winds and two very heavy rain days, so lots of time to walk around the island.

We met Gitta and Wouter of yacht ‘Brandaen’ who moored next to us and invited us for coffee.  Wouter had just retired so we had lots to talk about.  We wish them well in their adventures, their Labrador was not a natural sailor and may take a while to acquire sea legs.

Two days before our departure my vertigo (BPPV) returned and we had a few days trauma trying to rectify it (using the Epley Manoeuvre) before our departure, which could not be delayed as the weather and tides were right.  Just another type of sailing stress as the thought of sailing feeling so dizzy had no appeal.

17th July – Monday – Norderney to Dokkum via Lauwersoog.

We left Norderney just ahead of high tide at 0500.  A flotilla of 8 boats followed and then dispersed during the day.  The 13 hour trip was very rocky especially through the islands.  But we both took seasickness pills and managed pretty well. 

The tricky channel into Lauwersoog.  The buoys are nowhere near their charted locations as they are moved frequently as the channel changes.  They have to be identified and followed as you go.

Sand bank outside Lauwersoog.

After 13 hours and a very early start a visit from Dutch Customs was an interesting diversion.

We had been told earlier in the year at Cuxhaven that British boats were being stopped at Lauwersoog and so we weren’t too surprised.  Mick got his first chance in 4 years to display his comprehensive paperwork and passports proudly to the officials.  They were very courteous and the whole boarding and disembarking took no more than 15 minutes.  They helm alongside drop off one officer and then do the same to disembark.

The sluis at Lauwersoog is easily identified from a distance.

We had fully intended to stay in Lauwersoog marina for the night but it was only 1500 and there did not appear to be much going on so we opted to continue on to Dokkum, which we had really liked on the way up.  We managed to get a space before the first bridge in Dokkum and finished our day at 1800, 13 long hours (70 miles) but very satisfying for Mick’s navigation and a nice still canal to moor in for a few days.

18th July – Tuesday

Well that’s settled a week in Dokkum for 52.40 euros.  A nice calm mooring on the canal-side, with a proper pontoon.  They really have it well managed here.  The rubbish is collected from the side of your boat at 0830 and 2000 every day.  The money is collected by polite young people and the facilities are new.  (As described in Early May).  What’s not to like?

Mick did the big engine service all oils, filters etc.  Time for a spot of window shopping.

Dokkum central canal

Town Square

21st July – Friday

We walked to St Boniface Chapel which is only half a mile from the boat mooring.  It was so much nicer than we were expecting.  It is an open air church.

Which feels like Shakespear’s Globe but was only built in 1934.

There was a video in English explaining the whole story.  Boniface the famous British monk came here after great work in Britain and Germany and when he got to Dokkum to bring religion to the outer reaches of the Netherlands, they murdered him. 

We had several days to explore and spent a lot of time just sat on the boat watching the endless boat parade.  A well earned rest for us both after weeks of careful navigation and tricky sailing.

We met a man on a boat called ‘Winks’ who had just completed almost the same trip as ourselves to Copenhagen.  He had also chosen to return earlier than planned due to the high winds.  Then we read a blog from another sailor with just the same story, not just us then.

24th July – Monday - Dokkum to Grou

All good things come to an end so off we trot to Grou.  (Pronounced Hrou, as if coughing up the word Row, as in argument not rowing……..haha bet you did it).

Departing Dokkum is a parade through the bridges paying 5 euros into a clog on a fishing line at the main bridge.

You’ve got to love a country which provides ramps for ducks.

The parade continues through Birdarp.  Another 3.50 euros.

Lunch on the canal side in Leeuwarden and another 7 euros into the clog at the first bridge.  You pay to get in so they don’t miss out on payment.

Crossing the Aqueduct outside Grou (for Phil).

6 and a half hours to complete the 26 miles from Dokkum to Grou arriving just before the rain.

25th July – Tuesday

We have passed Grou twice so far and had been told it was worth a visit.

Mick outside the new marina office and facilities at Anja Marina.  The old ones burnt down.

Bit of yarn bombing for my crafty chums.

Grou is a pretty town surrounding St Piters Church. 

It has a comprehensive set of shops which are much bigger on the inside tardis-like.  The wool shop sells lingerie and the pet shop sells shoes.  Multi-tasking in a small community.

Sailors Info:

We stayed at Anja Marina for 11.60 euros per night, another bargain.  Beware the marina is not very deep and passing traffic makes waves.  Excellent new facilities.  Wifi OK.  Poiesz supermarket at the end of the High Street, Lidl and Jumbo on Stationweg near the museum. 

Next stop Lemmer

Early July 2017 - Kiel, Kiel Canal ‘The Return’, Cuxhaven and Norderney

29th June – Thursday – Heiligenhafen to Kiel, N. Germany.

We set off at 0730 and arrived at 1445, after 42 miles.  There was a definite military presence about the trip to Kiel.  We once again we had to circumnavigate the firing range as it was active and there were significantly more military vessels around than previously.  The German naval yard is located in Kiel and the G20 summit was just about the start in Hamburg.

Naval Yard in the background.

We passed Laboe, where we stayed on the way up, in the Kieler Forde and motored passed the Kiel Canal entrance towards the City and moored at the Dusternbrook Marina.  It was an overcast day and the heavy rains came later and stayed all through the next day too.

1st July – Saturday

We walked into Kiel Town Centre, which took about 30 minutes along the promenade.  Kiel has obviously been re-built and the modern shopping centres and shopping plazas are like most city centres.  The main church is worth looking inside.  We carried out a big shop at the Rewe supermarket in town and sought refreshment on the way back.

Fisch Brotchen are sold everywhere.  They are displayed just like this in the kiosks but we thought they might warm them up a bit.  No, Fisch Brotchen are served cold.  Mick does not generally like cold food, but we now have an exception to the rule.  The Brotchen (the bread bit) are ultra crispy, similar to French Rolls.

3rd July – Monday

Sunday and Monday were both quiet days, except it was my birthday.  A card from home was a lovely gift.  We had bought some blue shoes in Rostock and they had been kept for my prezzie along with some choccies.

On the way out in the evening we spotted another ‘Fleur’ and the reason I mention it is that they used the exact same font as we have.  We looked everyday, but did not see anyone aboard.

Dinner at ‘Louf’ on the sea front.  Good food and excellent service.  Its casual dining outside but more formal inside, perfect.

Sailors Info:

Dusternbrook Marina, Kiel - was a good stopping point prior to our return trip through the Kiel Canal.  24 Euros per night all inc.  The facilities were a little old fashioned but OK.  There is a token system for the showers 1.50 euro for 6 minutes.  Most expensive so far but a longer time.  Good free wifi.  The turning circle inside the marina is not very big and the visitor moorings were mostly on the right, the long ‘visitor’ pontoon was always full. Rewe and Aldi supermarkets in town.

4th July – Tuesday

Happy Special Birthday Liz.

Today we both had PCT, Pre-Canal Tension.  Mine due to the lock traumas on the previous trip, his due to my lock traumas on the previous trip.  Mick also had planning to do to make sure we left the Canal at the right time to get to Cuxhaven on the tide of the Elbe at the other end.

PCT was slightly relieved by the application of pancakes, made by the lovely lady in the red kiosk outside the marina.

5th July – Wednesday – Kiel Canal ‘The Return’

To say I was not looking forward to this was an understatement of epic proportions, but being sturdy sorts and having learned lessons from the previous trip we left the marina at 0630 to catch an early lock. 

We had to mill around outside the lock and wait for the white signal light.  2 large ships went in and then the lock keeper waited for a 3rd to arrive.  Meanwhile we are going in circles.

We entered the lock at 0800 and besides the 3 large ships we were the only yacht.  Yeah!!!! 

We had positioned the step to allow me to step off the boat in an orderly fashion.  The fenders were in the water and did their job to keep us away from the pontoon.  This was a newer pontoon with rubber matting to prevent slippage.  The use of rings for the ropes (above bottom right) means you have to get off the boat to tie up.  Cleats would be easier but they would be a trip hazard.  Can’t win.

The lock keeper was very helpful and told us our passage was still free and would be for the rest of the year.  We exited the lock at 0830 and made our way to Brunsbuttel at the other end 96km away.  It was a sunny day and we passed a few interesting vessels. 

Pleasure steamer.

An old Elbe Light Ship, which used to be moored in the Elbe river like lighthouses.  We arrived at 1800 after taking on diesel.

Mick ship-spotting.  We think it must be a real pastime as many people and coach trips visit to see the locks.

The ship ‘Vestvind’ with its cargo of Windmill sails.  It belched out some fumes and smog, not really the ‘green’ alternative.

See previous post for Brunsbuttel Marina details.

Our neighbours in the marina were two lovely German guys on yacht ‘Albatros’.  They helped us to moor up and then we discussed our plans for exiting the canal the following day.  Their home port is Cuxhaven, so they have good experience of the lock.  We said we would follow them.

6th July – Thursday – Brunsbuttel, Kiel Canal to Cuxhaven

Micks calculations for exiting the canal into the Elbe were spot on.  We had all agreed to a 1300 start.  At 1230 they came rushing over saying, we are going now.  As in NOW.  Thank goodness the flask and butties were stowed and PCT was building nicely.  Like coiled springs we shot into action and were in hot pursuit of ‘Albatros’.  They had a tip off from the lock keeper on the radio, in German, so we were glad they were in charge.  We were very grateful of their help.

This time we went to Lock 2 which is smaller.  Other German boats had managed to moor on the right and we rafted onto the only other British boat.  ‘Sandlinger’ was brand new and expensive and on her maiden trip back to the UK.  Mick said after he would not have dreamed of rafting to her if he had known she was new….. and expensive.  Anyway they gladly pushed us off and all was well. 

Again a trouble free canal lock passage.  The moral of this tale being, go when it is not so busy and when the nice local man tells you to.

We exited the lock into the river Elbe and ourselves and our small fleet were assisted by 3 knots of tide on a sunny trip into Cuxhaven at 1600.  Apart from the tanker that decided to dock in front of us at the entrance to the marina, which employed all our mind reading skills and a bit of nerve to believe he was going to stop before we got there.  Indicators would have to be massive on tankers, but very useful.

7th July – Friday

We had a good look around Cuxhaven and found the actual town centre which we had missed last time.  The main street near the harbour is only half the story. 

Cuxhaven Marina details on previous post Mid May.

9th July – Sunday – Cuxhaven to Norderney

Up at 0300 for a 0330 start to Norderney.  This trip is all about the tides.  You have to exit the Elbe with the tide hence the early start.  You also have to enter the channel at Norderney before the ebb tide as it runs strongly between the islands of Norderney and Juist. 

Tanker silhouetted in the sunrise.

Moon set.

The smooth top to the sea belied its pitching and rolling motion which lasted almost all day.  The crew were feeling pretty dire for the first half of the day, but sea legs kicked in again.

Buoy just off the promenade.

We arrived at 1630 after 13 and a half hours, to complete the 65 miles.  Glad to arrive and stop moving.  Stillness is very underrated.  Everyone arrives here looking like they have been through a wringer.

10th July – Monday

Norderney is a German East Frisian Island,  8.7 x 1.6 miles across.  Since 1800 it has attracted tourists and has a famous sea bath, an enclosed area for sea bathing.

The ‘Conversationhaus’ is on the town square and houses the Tourist Information centre and free loos.

The town centre is a bit Disney-fied, but very pleasant with pedestrian areas and boutiques.

Nordstrand, or North Beach is a big attraction for visitors and families.

Its very windy around these parts and now we know why the deckchairs have canopies.

Brick wind break around a sea front bench. 

The sea was wild today.  Rather them than us. 

We are planning to stay here until at least the 16th July.  Next stop Holland.

Late June 2017 – North Germany, Stralsund, Warnemunde and Rostock

18th June – Sunday - Malmo, Sweden to Klintholm, Denmark.

A 49 mile hop took us back to Klintholm for one night on our way to North Germany.  It was a 10 hour hop starting at 0800, but we had 12-18 knots of winds and sailed most of the way.  It was a really sunny day, but the sea got very wallowy on the way into Klintholm for the last few miles.  See Early June for Klintholm info.

19th June – Monday – Klintholm, Denmark to Stralsund, Germany.

We set off at 0900 to make the 48 mile journey to Stralsund arriving at 1715.  A really lovely sunny day, but gusty at times.  By 1400 we rounded into Strelasund which is a lagoon in the best traditions of the word.  We were lucky to enter in bright sunshine and as such the water was vivid and readily displayed the shallows.  There is a very well buoyed channel which winds around the edge of the lagoon.  The masses of birdlife, relax and paddle on the lagoon as we diligently follow the channel. 

The shallow water is much lighter in colour and dotted with wildlife.

 

The treat does not end there, as the city of Straslund emerges.  It takes 2 and a half to 3 hours to finally reach the harbour, and the city draws ever closer revealing itself, like a little Venice.  Stralsund is attached to the island of Rugen by a large bridge.

The evening was balmy and we sat out until late in the evening.

20th and 21st June – Tuesday and Wednesday

We walked the town.  It is one of the original Hanseatic trading towns which line the shores of the southern Baltic.

Main Square with St Nikolaikirsche.

Main Square

The City Hall

The town has obviously undergone a great deal of refurbishment in the last 20 years since the wall came down.  The traditional red brick buildings are all gradually being restored.

Michael at the floating Backfisch Stall in the harbour, awaiting his Backfisch and Chips (breaded fried white fish).

Stralsund is a town of contrasts.  From the old cloisters and squares.

To the ultra modern ‘Ozeaneum’.  We were really taken with Stralsund and could have stayed longer.

Sailors Info:

In the City marina it was not easy to find a space.  The red and green symbols are there but you have to be almost in the mooring to see them.  There are however pontoons, real pontoons. 19 euros per night.  10 euros for the card and 10 euro loaded onto it (refundable).  The showers which are on the pontoon and at the office, were OK, but i had a cold one and paid 1 euro for the privilege.  There is an Edeka supermarket on the main shopping street and an ALDI a 20 minute walk along the man made beach front and park (then inland a little).  Good wifi. 

** This year we have been using the free ‘Here’ app to navigate around onshore.  It you type in ‘supermarket’ or better still the name of a supermarket it will appear with directions and approx time to walk.  ATMs, petrol stations etc are also available.  Very handy.

22nd June – Thursday – To Warnemunde, Germany.

A very early 0430 get up to set off at 0500 to make the 56 mile trip.  We had to renegotiate the lagoon, which looked so different without the sunshine.  It would be very easy to stray out of the channel and into the shallows when the water is all the same colour.

Sunrise.

From 1200 to 1400 a real squall blew up and from a calm 10 knots the wind increased to 32 knots very quickly.  The sea became very disturbed and threw us around for 2 hours.  We were really worried as it was not forecast and we were dreading our arrival into Warnemunde.  As the wind was directly in front of us the boat speed went from 5.8 to 3.5 knots, with waves crashing over the bow. However, the squall left as quickly as it came and we arrived at 1630 in bright sunshine and little wind.  The Warnemunde harbourmaster said it had passed them by earlier and he was equally surprised.

The entrance into Warnemunde.  It would be useful if the piles which prevent you hitting the rocks had their Red and Green tips re-painted.

23rd June – Friday

After the very long day on Thursday we just had a walk around the marina hotel and surrounding area.  It was very windy and rainy.

The 5 star Hohe Dune Hotel and Yachthaven, front.

Back, facing the marina.

24th June – Saturday

Despite the drizzle we needed a walk and ventured across the river on the ferry. 1.40 Euro per person each way.

The ferry docks at the cruise ship terminal.  Warnemunde is the base for AIDA Cruises.

Pretty harbour front.  When the market was on there were 20 fish stalls all selling the same thing.

The other side of the harbour lined with shops and restaurants.

The town light house and ‘Teepot’ restaurant.

There is a lovely promenade and a good range of shops and restaurants, which are very popular at weekends when the markets are on by the harbour and in the town square.  It is a really pleasant place to spend a few hours.

25th June – Sunday – Grand Prix and Glastonbury.

26th June – Monday – To Rostock on the Train.

Suffice it to say the trains are new and modern and all go to Rostock.  Only 2.10 Euros per person, each way (tickets also available to Warnemunde Tourist Info).  We met a lovely lady on the train who was a great help advising us to make sure we stamped our tickets prior to boarding to Rostock Haupt-Bahnhof station, and advising on the trams into town from the station, which were also included in the ticket price.  She came with us and even told us when to get off at the town square outside the ‘Rathaus’ (Town Hall) and to take trams 5 or 6 on the way back.   

We followed further instruction to visit the Marienkirche, the largest church built in 1230.

With its Astronomical clock dating to 1472.

Again the town was a contrast of old and new.

We think all the ugly buildings have been blurted with rainbow coloured plaster to brighten the place up.  It works.

There is a good shopping area and we managed to squeeze in a Currywurst and Ice Cream.  We had a really good day out.  It is definitely worth the train trip, as its only 15km from Warnemunde.

Sailors Info:

Yachthafen Hohe Dune is billed as a 5 star hotel and marina complex.  The showers are in a block away from the main hotel.  It is 1 euro for a shower.  23 euros per night.  The pontoons are very long, try to get a bit nearer to the shore.  The wifi is good.  There is no supermarket on the yachthafen side of the river but there is an Edeka on the town square and ALDI and REWE a 20 minute walk.  It is lovely for a change for the weary sailor to walk through a 5 star hotel which smells of money.  The sailors were easily distinguishable from the guests and spa residents.

27th June – Tuesday – To Heiligenhafen

0730 start for the 44 miles arriving at 1530.  An overcast and rough morning turned into a calm and sunny afternoon.  Mostly motor sailed.

28th June – Wednesday

Another ridiculously windy day.  We check the wind instruments which measured 36 knots of wind and it was gusting more.  We went to the supermarket to get off the rocky boat for a while and battled the wind with the trolley, whose aerodynamics make her a perfect anchor when full, but takes off when empty.

We really like Heiligenhafen but the constant high wind was very trying.

Fleur being sloshed around.

We moved onto the city of Kiel on the 29th, more of which later.

We have really enjoyed Northern Germany and look forward to re-visiting.