Fleur of Pendle: Early July 2017 - Kiel, Kiel Canal ‘The Return’, Cuxhaven and Norderney

29th June – Thursday – Heiligenhafen to Kiel, N. Germany.

We set off at 0730 and arrived at 1445, after 42 miles. There was a definite military presence about the trip to Kiel. We once again we had to circumnavigate the firing range as it was active and there were significantly more military vessels around than previously. The German naval yard is located in Kiel and the G20 summit was just about the start in Hamburg.

Naval Yard in the background.

We passed Laboe, where we stayed on the way up, in the Kieler Forde and motored passed the Kiel Canal entrance towards the City and moored at the Dusternbrook Marina. It was an overcast day and the heavy rains came later and stayed all through the next day too.

1st July – Saturday

We walked into Kiel Town Centre, which took about 30 minutes along the promenade. Kiel has obviously been re-built and the modern shopping centres and shopping plazas are like most city centres. The main church is worth looking inside. We carried out a big shop at the Rewe supermarket in town and sought refreshment on the way back.

Fisch Brotchen are sold everywhere. They are displayed just like this in the kiosks but we thought they might warm them up a bit. No, Fisch Brotchen are served cold. Mick does not generally like cold food, but we now have an exception to the rule. The Brotchen (the bread bit) are ultra crispy, similar to French Rolls.

3rd July – Monday

Sunday and Monday were both quiet days, except it was my birthday. A card from home was a lovely gift. We had bought some blue shoes in Rostock and they had been kept for my prezzie along with some choccies.

On the way out in the evening we spotted another ‘Fleur’ and the reason I mention it is that they used the exact same font as we have. We looked everyday, but did not see anyone aboard.

Dinner at ‘Louf’ on the sea front. Good food and excellent service. Its casual dining outside but more formal inside, perfect.

Sailors Info:

Dusternbrook Marina, Kiel - was a good stopping point prior to our return trip through the Kiel Canal. 24 Euros per night all inc. The facilities were a little old fashioned but OK. There is a token system for the showers 1.50 euro for 6 minutes. Most expensive so far but a longer time. Good free wifi. The turning circle inside the marina is not very big and the visitor moorings were mostly on the right, the long ‘visitor’ pontoon was always full. Rewe and Aldi supermarkets in town.

4th July – Tuesday

Happy Special Birthday Liz.

Today we both had PCT, Pre-Canal Tension. Mine due to the lock traumas on the previous trip, his due to my lock traumas on the previous trip. Mick also had planning to do to make sure we left the Canal at the right time to get to Cuxhaven on the tide of the Elbe at the other end.

PCT was slightly relieved by the application of pancakes, made by the lovely lady in the red kiosk outside the marina.

5th July – Wednesday – Kiel Canal ‘The Return’

To say I was not looking forward to this was an understatement of epic proportions, but being sturdy sorts and having learned lessons from the previous trip we left the marina at 0630 to catch an early lock.

We had to mill around outside the lock and wait for the white signal light. 2 large ships went in and then the lock keeper waited for a 3rd to arrive. Meanwhile we are going in circles.

We entered the lock at 0800 and besides the 3 large ships we were the only yacht. Yeah!!!!

We had positioned the step to allow me to step off the boat in an orderly fashion. The fenders were in the water and did their job to keep us away from the pontoon. This was a newer pontoon with rubber matting to prevent slippage. The use of rings for the ropes (above bottom right) means you have to get off the boat to tie up. Cleats would be easier but they would be a trip hazard. Can’t win.

The lock keeper was very helpful and told us our passage was still free and would be for the rest of the year. We exited the lock at 0830 and made our way to Brunsbuttel at the other end 96km away. It was a sunny day and we passed a few interesting vessels.

Pleasure steamer.

An old Elbe Light Ship, which used to be moored in the Elbe river like lighthouses. We arrived at 1800 after taking on diesel.

Mick ship-spotting. We think it must be a real pastime as many people and coach trips visit to see the locks.

The ship ‘Vestvind’ with its cargo of Windmill sails. It belched out some fumes and smog, not really the ‘green’ alternative.

See previous post for Brunsbuttel Marina details.

Our neighbours in the marina were two lovely German guys on yacht ‘Albatros’. They helped us to moor up and then we discussed our plans for exiting the canal the following day. Their home port is Cuxhaven, so they have good experience of the lock. We said we would follow them.

6th July – Thursday – Brunsbuttel, Kiel Canal to Cuxhaven

Micks calculations for exiting the canal into the Elbe were spot on. We had all agreed to a 1300 start. At 1230 they came rushing over saying, we are going now. As in NOW. Thank goodness the flask and butties were stowed and PCT was building nicely. Like coiled springs we shot into action and were in hot pursuit of ‘Albatros’. They had a tip off from the lock keeper on the radio, in German, so we were glad they were in charge. We were very grateful of their help.

This time we went to Lock 2 which is smaller. Other German boats had managed to moor on the right and we rafted onto the only other British boat. ‘Sandlinger’ was brand new and expensive and on her maiden trip back to the UK. Mick said after he would not have dreamed of rafting to her if he had known she was new….. and expensive. Anyway they gladly pushed us off and all was well.

Again a trouble free canal lock passage. The moral of this tale being, go when it is not so busy and when the nice local man tells you to.

We exited the lock into the river Elbe and ourselves and our small fleet were assisted by 3 knots of tide on a sunny trip into Cuxhaven at 1600. Apart from the tanker that decided to dock in front of us at the entrance to the marina, which employed all our mind reading skills and a bit of nerve to believe he was going to stop before we got there. Indicators would have to be massive on tankers, but very useful.

7th July – Friday

We had a good look around Cuxhaven and found the actual town centre which we had missed last time. The main street near the harbour is only half the story.

Cuxhaven Marina details on previous post Mid May.

9th July – Sunday – Cuxhaven to Norderney

Up at 0300 for a 0330 start to Norderney. This trip is all about the tides. You have to exit the Elbe with the tide hence the early start. You also have to enter the channel at Norderney before the ebb tide as it runs strongly between the islands of Norderney and Juist.

Tanker silhouetted in the sunrise.

Moon set.

The smooth top to the sea belied its pitching and rolling motion which lasted almost all day. The crew were feeling pretty dire for the first half of the day, but sea legs kicked in again.

Buoy just off the promenade.

We arrived at 1630 after 13 and a half hours, to complete the 65 miles. Glad to arrive and stop moving. Stillness is very underrated. Everyone arrives here looking like they have been through a wringer.

10th July – Monday

Norderney is a German East Frisian Island, 8.7 x 1.6 miles across. Since 1800 it has attracted tourists and has a famous sea bath, an enclosed area for sea bathing.